S1 E5 How to Press Comic Books Using 9 x 12 Steel Plates by KaptainMyke

S1 E5 Pressing Comic Books Using 9 x 12 Inch Steel Plates by KaptainMyke This episode features 1992 Marvel Comics AMAZING SPIDER-MAN #361 Second Printing 1st appearance of Carnage. I recommend buying 2 (two) 9" x 12" steel plates 1/8" thick or try 12" x 12" steel plates 3/16" thick once you have mastered the basics. They are a major component to this working even more successfully like an industrial dry mount book press. These steel plates tend to sell out quick due to this guide, so try to get a set if you can from a local metal fabricator if you cannot find them on amazon or elsewhere. (Optional, Advanced)
This episode features a unique find from Half Priced Books found out in the wild for $4. The book is in high grade condition with one small problem: pages are rippled or flared. A completely dry book with rippled pages. Flaring is caused by too much pressure or too much moisture (sometimes both). In this video I try to knock out 2 topics in one by introducing the usage of steel plates during pressing, and to try and get rid of the flaring from moisture damage. When buying books out in the wild it's not always safe to assume this book was left out in the rain over someone else's bad pressing job. You never know what you are dealing with so it's best to start slow. I did not want to introduce more humidity to the book so I thought I'd start with a simple proper pressing to see what would result. All supplies can be found in the provided links below:
by KaptainMyke, owner of www.kaptainmyke.com.
HOW TO PRESS COMIC BOOKS:
www.kaptainmyke.com/comics/ho...
HOW TO CLEAN COMIC BOOKS:
www.kaptainmyke.com/comics/ho...
FACEBOOK GROUP:
/ kaptainmykecomicpressing
This book has now been received back from CGC and was graded 9.8 NM on 12/18/2018: bit.ly/2GFxNwT (Photos)

[@kaptainmyke]

For a complete comprehensive list of recommend products, please go to www.kaptainmyke.com/products

[@kidscollectingwbrody]

This is thee ONLY place one should be getting pressing and cleaning advice from 💯

[@kaptainmyke]

Thank you - you are too kind

[@kaptainmyke]

Update: CGC has graded this comic book 9.8 on 12/18/2018

[@ghrosenb]

Wow.

[@chriss3348]

Thank you for putting together all the videos and the website. They've been a great help.

[@kaptainmyke]

This book has now been received back from CGC and was graded 9.8 NM on 12/18/2018: bit.ly/2GFxNwT (Photos)

[@rhmidwestcomics]

Hi Mike. Thank you so much for making these videos. Extremely helpful. I was wondering, if you put too many things between the comic book and the heated plate, won't it reduce the effectiveness of the press if not enough heat is getting through to the actual comic? Do you ever press with just a Teflon sheet between the comic and the heated plate? Or do you always use a board and sometimes a steel plate?

[@kaptainmyke]

I always use cardstock and double sided silicone parchment paper with plates and backer board 🙂

[@GladwellInvestments]

Thank you for putting out the content that you do , I’ve been studying your videos and website. I have a question Myke, I’m pressing and doing everything sort of to standard from my point of view but often times my books will come out a little wavy. Defects will come out in the book will look overall great except for the waviness. I’ve been trying different things like pressures in different temps. Any pointers?

[@kaptainmyke]

WAVY BOOKS Oversaturation is the #1 cause of wavy books. Using too much water in your humidity tank or too long in the humidity tank causes oversaturation. Try cracking the lid open an inch or two to lower the relative humidity inside tank. Too much heat is the #2 cause of wavy books. If it's not oversaturation, try turning down the temperature by 5 degrees to see if that helps. Always try to adapt to your pressing environment. The #3 cause of wavy books is the removal of books from press too soon. If you remove the book too soon from the press machine before cooling down properly, you will see wavy pages/covers. Always check the top edge and bottom edge of pressed book. The top edge and bottom edge should always be flat and straight. · Allow 2 hours for 2002-Present books to cool before removing or flipping. Modern Age Quickpress Method: bit.ly/3o7njqB · Allow 24 hours for all other books to cool before removing or flipping. · You can, however, wait at least 5-6 hours for Pre-2001 books and flip to repeat a second press. Only then remove from press at least 19 hours later after second press. This proves to yield successful results. · 2002-Present modern books do appear somewhat wavy after press at times. This can depend on the publisher and paperstock. Brand new books being printed are rippled and wavy due to warehouse storage conditions or choice of thin cheap paper. · To reiterate: You are looking for a super flat and straight top edge and bottom edge of all books pressed.

[@GladwellInvestments]

@@kaptainmyke this is perfect. Thank you Myke

[@ghrosenb]

A couple of questions. I'll post them on separate lines.

[@deanm1818]

Hi Mike, I have been following everything you wrote and recorded. I am a little confused as to when to use the the 65 lb card stock and when to use the inkjet 8.5x11.5 copy paper. I have been using the 65 lb, on the inside front and back covers. Is that correct? When would I use the copy paper? Thanks for your immense help.

[@kaptainmyke]

I use copy paper on books that are brittle or have a lot of missing pieces around spine. I've also used copy paper doubled up for real super thin books that cannot take the 65 lb cardstock. Inkjet Copy paper is also suggested to those who don't have cardstock paper or do not have any on hand to perform work on books that might benefit more from using cardstock.

[@matthewlamoreaux8641]

Hey Mike, what did you use to clean your steel plates? Did you put anything on the plates afterwards to prevent them from rusting?

[@kaptainmyke]

Just mild soap and water with paper towels. Keep washing the plates with paper towels until you no longer see black powder marks on the paper towels. You do not want to spray anything on the plates to prevent rust. The only time the plates will rust is if you are pressing oversaturated damp comic books which leak through the SRP paper and backer boards onto the plates. All comics from a humidity tank should feel dry to the touch but trust me they are still slightly damp from humidity tank durations of 2 hours to 24 hours depending on which duration and water level you choose.

[@fordhamdonnington2738]

11:00 How do you create a light humidity pack vs a heavier one? Less water in the container?

[@kaptainmyke]

Less water, less duration

[@Prepaypete]

Hi Mike, What adjustments need to be made on your clamshell press in order to evenly clamp down on comic "sandwich"? The back of my heat plate makes contact with the steel plate while the front is at least a half inch away.

[@kaptainmyke]

Did you just purchase the unit? I would return it for a replacement or refund. It's okay if both front and back do not touch down evenly but if you feel the entire press plate isn't making even contact on the clamp when completely closed I would definitely consider a replacement. Both of my units clamp down pretty evenly front and back.

[@Prepaypete]

@@kaptainmyke Thank you Mike, I'm looking at some close up pics from your site and i'm starting to think I haven't loosened the pressure knob enough. From brand new completely flat to enough room for steel plates and comic "sandwich" i'm thinking the knob needs lots of loosening, I'll play with it again when i get home, appreciate your feedback and definitely look for a replacement if it doesn't look right

[@kaptainmyke]

@@Prepaypete How did it go?

[@mannyortez04]

I've found that aluminum plates are a bit cheaper - any reason not so use those vs. the steel plates? Is there a difference?

[@kaptainmyke]

You can use either aluminum or steel. Aluminum is the best conductor of heat however it can warp with heavy use over time. Steel can rust if pressing oversaturated books that aren't properly dried during/after initial press. Thickness is key because if any thinner the plates will warp regardless of material choices used.

[@Thirdbornentertainment]

I have the cheap swivel press and no matter the pressure, humidity or cold press time Im getting waves in my books. 80% humidity for 1 to 4 hours on 1990s books at 160, 10 mins per side and 48 hours cold press.

[@kaptainmyke]

Do you have an LCD hygrometer? You need to find out the relative humidity of the room you are pressing books. www.kaptainmyke.com/products/lcdhygrometer . If your room is above 45% you will have problems like this. You may need to buy a dehumidifier for your pressing room. A lot of this is learning to adapt to your environment. On the other hand, 90s comics also used cheap paper and can get somewhat wavy like ASM 361 and similar books of that era. Good luck! You'll get it dialed in eventually!

[@Thirdbornentertainment]

@@kaptainmyke I live in Alberta Canada and the humidity of my pressing room is under 25%, usually at 15%.

[@RonJibs]

Kaptain, this may be a dumb question but why use a top plate when the press already has a flat steel surface? It seems like duplication. I've been using a bottom aluminum plate and just the SRP paper and backing board above the cover and haven't had bad results.

[@kaptainmyke]

Yes many have stated this as well. I use a top and bottom plate to make sure my stacking layers don't move when setting the top platen down on stack. It's completely up to you. The heat transfer is the same. For thicker books, and different press machines, you simply cannot use a top plate. Thanks for your question!

[@RonJibs]

@@kaptainmyke Thanks much for the comments! This has been a real fun new hobby to me during this pandemic. You really get an appreciation of the books after cleaning and pressing them.

[@ghrosenb]

Second, how would you judge that a book doesn't need humidity or would be damaged by it?

[@kaptainmyke]

Any glossy modern age book with thin pages and glossy thin covers I would not use humidity on. Modern age books like that are very forgiving with flash heat quickpresses. I prefer to start small with a book using no humidity and if a regular pressing does not press out heavy creasing or wrinkles - then I try the humidity tank to reset paper fiber memory.

[@screwydrewy7027]

I noticed in the damp book presssing you didn’t use the steel plates is there any reason why you did. Not

[@kaptainmyke]

Just showing a different way if you don’t have plates

[@ghrosenb]

First, when would someone not use steel plates? It seems like a simpler process if it eliminates having to flip the book and press on each side.

[@kaptainmyke]

I use aluminum plates or no plates when pressing damp books from humidity chamber. Squarebound books and very thin books I would avoid the steel plates as well.

[@kaptainmyke]

Jae Kim I refer to the page quality as being thin, glossy, pliable. Not the page count.