Thank you for the kind words - I'm considering reuploading all the videos with audio voiceover in the future

www.comicbookcpr2.com

It's true oversaturation is a big problem. Sometimes, you can simply wait 2-3 weeks left in a dry room and try again. I've had success removing rippling from covers using this method: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpTGgX1qrrugrsksi=z-QtKfYhJIR1TZFO

REUSING STACKING LAYERS ☠ I would not recommend reusing backer boards or SRP Paper. Very prone to dust, hair, and other contaminants getting pressed into your book covers...no matter how clean you think you or your workstation is....The "human element" of this equation is not perfect and will often make mistakes. If you see staple indentations on your backer boards (exterior stacking layers) then you are using too much pressure.

I should have been clearer, the video shows turning on for 10 mins then changing and then 10 more mins and then sit for 24 hrs. My question was if using plates do you skip the first 10 min break and just press for 10 then poweroff and wait th 24 hrs? Apologies on the initial question it only made sense if i gave my full thought

You press book with your starting initial stacking layers, for 10 min, then turn off press. Wait 24 hours, remove the book, flip the book, use new stacking layers. Press again. Wait 24 hours. Remove book.@@Dave_and_Laura_in_the_Tropics

Depending on your relative humidity and your pressing room, sometimes it is necessary to crack the lid open for people that have high humidity household or air conditioner systems.👌

Red and Yellow are very easily rubbed off with erasers so you have to be extra careful, and with very very light pressure. Experience and time will guide you with this method and it becomes increasingly easier to dry clean. Dry cleaning is very difficult on fragile comic books.

@@kaptainmyke I only wish I can buy some none valuable 50-60 year old comic or small publication to practice ..

@@JoeyRam. I would practice on old romance, western, Archie, and Charleston comics for the practice and they aren’t worth as much 👌

@@kaptainmyke Perfect!

@@kaptainmyke I just won an auction at eBay, for $10 total... more than 20 books of : Archie, Claw, Hulk, Eternals, Justice League of America, Captain America, Detective Comics Batman, etc. This will cut learning time, fear to mess up and open up to more experiment opportunities. My goal is to work from home doing this. Theres a great demand for comics, in less than 15 minutes from me, there are about four comics stores. Thanks for the ideas, the more the better!

1 - 172F 2 - 234F 3 - 280F 4 - 327F 5 - 387F Keep it around setting 2 and do not leave the iron in any one spot longer than 5 seconds at a time. I would get the PROLUX sealing tack iron on Amazon if you can... those settings are a bit higher than just 200. amzn.to/3PzJwgM

@@kaptainmyke Excellent, thanks a lot. 🙏 I'll start experimenting today👍🏻You should add this info for the next book prints.😉

A humidity tank is more reliable and safer to use.

@@kaptainmyke OK. Another thing, it doesn't matter the thickness or if it doesn't have staples? Example: I have Lobo Annual: Bloodlines - Outbreak...is about 1/4" and the top of the pages are wavei.

@@JoeyRam. No humidity is key to get those creases and waves flat and straight

Indeed those cardstock covers do not press out very well unless you use really high heat and a tack iron. Most creases cannot be removed on those types of books.

That’s an excellent question. I do not endorse, taking a book apart, or removing the staples as most of what I teach is geared towards amateurs. I feel like a lot more things could go wrong if you try to take the book apart.

Printers creases cannot be pressed flat otherwise you will get a white inkloss trench once pressed flat. Most of the time, printers creases do not impact grade unless severe or unless in a 9.8

@@kaptainmyke I was meaning if you accidentally pressed one in. My bad for not clarifying

Probably would end up super wavy. I would get a room dehumidifier if that were the case, for sure. Most home/office thermostats control indoor humidity in the range of 40%-50%.

Thank you - you are too kind

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN USING STEEL OR ALUMINUM PLATES? Working with different types of metal plates can produce different varying results. Adapt to your local environment and figure what works best for you and the type of work you do on comic books. I typically use 9x12 cold rolled pressed steel plates on most comics. I will switch to aluminum plates when practicing stain removal techniques on golden and silver age comics. Aluminum plates can develop lifting pages and covers too - if removed too soon, due to the slower cooldown times. You may have to lower the heat or remove from press machine at a later predetermined time. Aluminum Plates = most conductive (heats up faster, cools slower) Cold Rolled Steel Plates = 2nd conductive (heats up normally but cools faster and can develop rust spots when working with stain removal processes or misting) Stainless Steel Plates = 3rd least conductive (heats up normally but cools faster)

Erasure marks are caused by using an eraser too firmly across surface of book during dry cleaning. You can try mitigating the damage by using a cotton round or facial tissue in light circular swirls, clockwise and counterclockwise back and forth very gently to buff it out. In most cases the damage is permanent- always practice your erasing technique on cheap dollar bin books by using a very light limp wrist. Let the weight of the pencil or eraser tool do most of the work for you 👍🏻

For a complete comprehensive list of recommend products, please go to www.kaptainmyke.com/products You will see press recommendations at top of list

WAVY BOOKS Oversaturation is the #1 cause of wavy books. Using too much water in your humidity tank or too long in the humidity tank causes oversaturation. Try cracking the lid open an inch or two to lower the relative humidity inside tank. Too much heat is the #2 cause of wavy books. If it's not oversaturation, try turning down the temperature by 5 degrees to see if that helps. Always try to adapt to your pressing environment. The #3 cause of wavy books is the removal of books from press too soon. If you remove the book too soon from the press machine before cooling down properly, you will see wavy pages/covers. Always check the top edge and bottom edge of pressed book. The top edge and bottom edge should always be flat and straight. · Allow 2 hours for 2002-Present books to cool before removing or flipping. Modern Age Quickpress Method: bit.ly/3o7njqB · Allow 24 hours for all other books to cool before removing or flipping. · You can, however, wait at least 5-6 hours for Pre-2001 books and flip to repeat a second press. Only then remove from press at least 19 hours later after second press. This proves to yield successful results. · 2002-Present modern books do appear somewhat wavy after press at times. This can depend on the publisher and paperstock. Brand new books being printed are rippled and wavy due to warehouse storage conditions or choice of thin cheap paper. · To reiterate: You are looking for a super flat and straight top edge and bottom edge of all books pressed.

@@kaptainmyke this is perfect. Thank you Myke

You can use anything as a screen. You can use paper towels, assembled magazine, bag, and boards, or anything to act as a barrier from water droplets.

Yes - teeth whitening, action figures, video games systems. 👌

Thanks anytime - Feel free to message us on Facebook for any questions that you might have

Thank you I appreciate that - you can email me kaptainmyke @ gmail.com or message me on facebook if you need any help I'll be there for ya

@@kaptainmyke Gosh, I wrote all this then my internet screwed up so it didn't post, ugh...It's long as I think it might help others. Anyway, thanks for the offer. The method you posted didn't work. I didn't have enough mag boards so I used a combo of ink jet/#65/mags which I don't think would be an issue. Someone might have put a curse on me. It's two weeks of pressing purgatory where not one book came out clean. I tried six more books, light steam if necessary as I've done many times, and still get ripples. I've tried many methods: short time in the humbox, no humbox, higher/lower press temps, different times 8, 24 hrs, different parchment papers (replacing each time), no parchment paper. I live in AZ so I don't think humidity in the air is an issue. It's depressing. I've thought about taking a week off to reset my brain. I'll try a few more things. Right now I've just taken out the books that were in the humbox for 24 hrs per your instructions. I'm doing 165 degree/15 min per side pressing (I don't use alum 15X15 plates, but will be soon) I'll check at 8 hrs then go to 24 if necessary. If that doesn't work I'll try the dreaded tack iron on the ripples as I rarely use it as I'm a bull in a china shop. I'd follow your tack iron/ball video instructions. The ripples after the humbox look to have been evened out. If books still have ripples I do wonder though that if I take out the ripples via tack iron will they reform in the presses? Thanks, Chris

@@comicbookchris3509 If ripples are still present, try waiting about 2-3 weeks and try again with the humidity box and repeat. Sometimes, it's like doing multiple presses until the book is right. Be patient. Stay vigilant. You got this!

@@kaptainmyke I did lay the books out for three days and no dice. I'll try three weeks. Right now I'm on day three of looking at my presses, hum and light boxes, doing nothing. I'm watching violent Prime videos to calm me. I've got 50 books at CGC I'm waiting on, but I have to have the next block ready to go as this is my living and I have to pay bills! I'll take a few more days off then put in six fresh books. I'll follow your instructions to a T right out of CPR. As a side note I used to have 7 comic book locations 30 years ago that crashed and burned during the gimmicky comic book glut of the early 90s. I tapped out of the biz. I'm now back in the biz I used to love after a 30 sabbatical only because of CGC and scientific experts like you. I'm even thinking of working another San Diego Comic Con next year since the last one I went to in 1993! Thanks, Chris

@@comicbookchris3509 Welcome back to the hobby! I myself left for about 10 years but got sucked back in like we all do 😅

You could try it out on some beater cards first to see if the results are favorable.

Ebay completed auction sales by filter

@@kaptainmyke Ebay's so hard to use. Everything's scalped there.

@@mattalm9478 it’s the best way sorry

@@kaptainmyke Thank you, Myke.

@@kaptainmyke No problem. thanks for the info. What about the '99 TMNT wave? Are those of any value?

A book should feel dry to the fingertouch. If a book feels damp right out of the humidity tank, it is oversaturated. Oversaturated books will become wavy after pressing. If a book forms waves across the top of a bagged/boarded book you may have too much moisture in the air in the room you store books or press books. Another factor may be that the book is pressed too hot and for too long as well. What we do is all about "adapting to your local environment". So you need a hygrometer inside the tank and a digital hygrometer in your pressing room. If the room is above 50% you may have an issue with relative humidity in the room. Books should be stored and pressed in a room that is 40%. If your numbers are above 40%, you may have to keep your humidity tank lid cracked 1 inch when in use so the inside relative humidity inside tank will level off around 70-80%. If your pressing room is less than 40%, you may need to keep your lid air tight so the inside relative humidity remains at 100% inside the tank. If it is not a relative humidity issue, then you may need to press at a lower temperature like 150F for just 5 minutes and then let the book remain in press machine for 24 hours. Flip/repeat the next day using no humidity. Good luck!

Not yet!

Do you do figure collecting videos?

@@mattalm9478 i havent made any. I’ve always just taken photography

@@kaptainmyke Oh. Ok. Do you know any TMNT collectors videos? The only ones I know of. Are just figure reviews. They say nothing of the value of the figures.

It could be the book has too much tanning. That’s why we recommend blue light misting for the inside of the books and not the overlay method. You could try to dilute the solution with a mix of 50% distilled water and 50% hydrogen peroxide.

@@kaptainmyke Sorry, not for the interior pages. I am referring to the cover. After I HOP and the book is dry, inside of the cover it seems the paper has something trapped inside since it is visible after with uv light.

@@MrPelletty I am talking about the inside cover as well.

12 inches will be fine. Honestly 1 inch difference in the spacing of the vent holes isn't a big issue. I built a similar box and my holes/ spacing are different but the effect is the same. The primary concern is ensuring there isn't humidity or heat build-up in the tub, otherwise the book will curl/ deform. Use the meter to keep both in check and you'll be fine. You want the shiny side facing the book. The idea is to reflect as much blue light back at the book as possible. Hope that helps!

thanks, I did end up finding a container at target that was exactly 13 inches.

@shawn rustin Did you purchase the book offered by Myke btw? It goes into alot more detail, and the blue lights by themselves won't do much. They have to act in concert with a chemical reagent. They cover that in the book as well.

@@mattbrosch I did. I actually got both. I did watch some videos from immaculate comics and he did show some results with just light. I have seen people getting purple labels for signs of chemicals I was wondering if the hydrogen is what they are detecting.

@user-wn9vq4pz6v I'd recommend experimenting with light itself 1st, but I've gotten essentially 0 results from that method, despite exposure times as long as 72 hours and having the light at varying distances. CGC is not able to detect the hydrogen peroxide directly but will flag it as 'restored' if there are signs it has been employed (speckling from an inconsistent layer of the chemical, the inner page being tanned while the front cover is white/OW, the paper itself feels too soft/ cotton-like). So if you're intending on submitting for grading I'd recommend using as little as possible, making sure it's evenly layered, and that there isn't a stark difference in page color. As a caveat, the hydrogen peroxide also damages the paper, which is why it ends up feeling softer. It can also make pages more brittle. I'd really recommend learning more about paper conservation in general before embarking, its a quite complicated process.

Yes 👍🏻

@@kaptainmyke Good deal 🤝

Because you should start with new stacking layers each time. Hair, dirt, and other debris will press divots into book covers. It costs $0.79 cents to press a book. That doesn’t compare to pressing a book worth several hundreds or thousands of dollars. What is exact cost to press a comic book? Exact cost to press a comic book (one time use) · SRP $ .02 · SRP $ .02 · Backer Board $ .16 · Backer Board $ .16 · Backer Board $ .16 · 65 lb cardstock $ .09 · 65 lb cardstock $ .09 · 65 lb cardstock $ .09 Total $0.79 one time press Grand total $1.58 flip and repeat

@@kaptainmyke Thank you for the very detailed response. I appreciate your help.

My pleasure! Thank you