S2E1: Beaver Dam Long-tail Mud Motor Kit Assembly

[@JTgatoring]

If you are interested in getting more information, I have written articles on the website - www.jtgatoring.com/long-tail-mud-motor-kits-comparing-parts/

[@jimboneutron8399]

That’s nice that they gave u parts that are pre rusted

[@Allamericanbutcher]

Just got a kit. Thanks for posting

[@klausstern5498]

Very good presentation and visualization. Compensates many questions, which arise during the own, real assembly.

[@BlackWarriorLures]

Dude, that's a serious box of shop towels!

[@salemstvmixedvlogs]

Thanks for sharing this video, I am really interested in the long tail motor

[@JTgatoring]

Awesome, I have really enjoyed my longtail over the years. Check out a few of the other longtail videos here on the channel if you want to learn a little more. Thank you for taking the time to stop by and leave a comment 😁

[@huxmetalworks7371]

Great job love your work thanks for sharing

[@JTgatoring]

Thank you!!

[@huxmetalworks7371]

I love your channel i have a question if you don't mind i would like to purchase one of these i have back problems i can purchase a motor with electric starter people have said there are hard to handle do you have or could your do a video on how to run them any advice would be greatly appreciated love your channel thanks for sharing your work

[@JTgatoring]

Thank you huxmetalworks7371. If you have back problems I would probably avoid a tiller motor like this. If the correct kit is purchased and properly tuned to the engine you have, then they can be "easy" to handle, but I still stand 80 to 90% of the time and do a lot of movement when it comes to turning the boat around. If you are just running the boat in straight lines and not having to do much navigating, then you may be able to swing it. But the way I use the engine can be quite labor-intensive and hard on the back even if you decide not to go through thick vegetation. It has a learning curve, but if you are determined to try one, I would get a 6.5hp engine with a small kit and see how you are able to handle it. That will be the easiest to control and the least expensive. Thanks again

[@SuryaSurya-on4sh]

Good.. 👍

[@JeffRoneyBroker]

Great video! I have one that I bought from someone else. It works fine, but somehow water is making it from the prop to the crankcase. Looks like the CLP mud drive does not have any seals other than grease. I'm thinking it's the eternal shaft seal on the motor. Any thoughts before I take it apart. BTW, Motor runs fine.

[@JTgatoring]

This is how all thai longtails are. Water makes its way up into the coupler housing and that is why they normally have a drain hole in the coupler housing. Water making its way up the shaft helps cool the bushings and lubricate them. The only issue that may occur is if water makes it past the engine PTO seal into the engine, hence why the coupler is filled with 1/3rd grease.

[@solarfunction1847]

With those 2 bolts for the handle you can easily modify it to when you have the pipe in the right position. Before you've tightened the bolts down on the pipe you should take them out, grind the ends to make them sharpened cones. Then put the bolts in to get the right position of the pipe, the points on the bolts will make the pipe so that you can drill out a small hole, repaint the hole, then put thread locker on the bolts, put the bolts back in where they are tightly depressing into the holes & wait for the thread locker to cure so that the bolts do not come out. You'll find that your pipe will not move in any direction now as it will be securely fixed.

[@JTgatoring]

That would be a good modification to this kit, and I'm sure people who have bought the CLP may end up doing that if they come along your comment. Good idea!

[@cariealbrecht1590]

Very nice video. After watching this video, it looks extremely difficult to put together, compared to my sps. I love how there are many holes on this kit to change tail weight. I'm trying to figure out what that black box is underneath the OHV. I have the "regular" 420 predator, and mine doesn't have it. Also that small hole on the skeg, what purpose is that for?

[@JTgatoring]

Thank you! This kit was a little difficult to put together because the instructions were not that good. The little back box is part of the emissions for the engine. The small hole on the skeg is most likely used for hanging the shafts when they get painted at the factory.

[@SwampFeathers]

Is there any bushing in the outter shaft ? Or it is straight from top to bottom ?

[@JTgatoring]

Could you be more specific? If you are talking about the longtail shaft with the skeg on it, there are bushings that support the inner shaft of that 85" shaft.

[@walkertongdee]

CLP is made in Thailand where I live I'm thinking that 9/16 bolt is probably 14 Mm. Enjoying the video I have the older model cant get new shaft bushings that fit, they don't stock them I even contacted the factory, not the greatest customer support.

[@JTgatoring]

Is this kit the same basic build as your older model?

[@walkertongdee]

That dead man throttle is for when you fall out of the boat because you were standing up and got chewed up by the prop, a great idea then your friends can rescue the boat.

[@poekwahdoh7056]

I’m your new Subscribe man I have a question about this video that you made because I just buy my first a boat and it was my first boat so I was look for long tails motor like this so my question is do I have to buy the motor first then I have to buy the long tail kit and install together?

[@JTgatoring]

Thank you Poekwah Doh! That is correct. You buy the motor first and then buy the longtail kit. Then you assemble the two together.

[@mirsalboyzone]

Good👍👍👍👍👍

[@JTgatoring]

Thank you

[@JohnLee-ui5gd]

Question, how much weight is that on the transom??

[@JTgatoring]

The weight of the engine and the kit. A 13hp engine is normally around 75lbs, and a kit that fits that engine can be 55 to 65 lbs so about 130 pounds

[@jcadams8232]

I usually stick to name-brand motors and avoid Tecumseh because of its bad reputation. Is Predator developing a good reputation for reliability?

[@JTgatoring]

Yes, I've heard from many that if the engine lasts 10 hours (run time) then the engine will last. The other good thing about these engines, is that they are very popular. With them being very popular, there is a lot of extra parts out there for them and a big community out there to help you if you run into an issue.

[@diehard1340]

3 years late with a comment, I have the exact same setup except I don't have the hemi but when or if it craps out I will make sure I get the hemi

[@JTgatoring]

Thats if you can find one. It seems like people are really struggling to get engines right now

[@BlackWarriorLures]

That coupling design is interesting. I like the bolt on the PTO.

[@BlackWarriorLures]

8 lbs is not a lot. Get you a good torque wrench if you plan to work on these engines much. It'll be worth it.

[@BlackWarriorLures]

Yeah, that cornhead grease is the best. I wish I had known about it when I got started, although it doesn't get cold enough in my neck of the woods for it to matter..

[@BlackWarriorLures]

Yeah, folks, get the blue thread lock, not the red!

[@BlackWarriorLures]

Sorry for so many comments You said "cheap fix for something." Yeah, It seems they need a longer shell housing instead of a bolt on brace. It seems Instead of retooling the factory, they added that brace instead. Like you said it looks like a cheap fix for something.

[@BlackWarriorLures]

See all that air box removal, that's another reason to go a stage 1 kit. It makes it easier to work on the motor.

[@stevetaylor2445]

An observation about all of the kits and videos. Everyone who builds and does videos of the mud motors is in my opinion making a mistake about what side of the engine they install the tiller. If you install it on the opposite side you will gain a lot of travel for off hand steering. As you and others do it you get a great right turn but almost no left turn ability.

[@JTgatoring]

I notice that one day when I was running and wanted to switch it over to the other side. With the way the prop spins, I think it would be more beneficial to put the tiller on your "left hand" and it would make for more maneuverability. Good catch Steve 👍 I agree with you

[@sparkplug6918]

How big of a boat will that push

[@JTgatoring]

A longtail this size can push any boat, but what kind of speed do you want? A 13hp engine longtail set up will push my 1436 23mph. It was with an SPS kit and not a CLP kit that was in this video.

[@stonypointer]

sir How Much is the Beaver Dam long tail Mud kit assy

[@JTgatoring]

$945 with the kit and engine = kit is $575 and engine is $370 _ not including and shipping costs

[@driveitbreakitfixit7496]

Your one closer to monitization

[@JTgatoring]

Thank you for supporting the channel @drive it break it fix it!!

[@johnniecameron8829]

You can buy these kits from China from 50 to 100$

[@walkertongdee]

That tiller is not a CLP tiller it fits too sloppy and flimsy can't find anything good about it. Thai tillers also are straight no Asian person stands up in a fast-moving boat LOL me too.

[@REVIEW_JUJUR]

Yeah, me as an asians... My tiller is straight...

[@MattTZew]

If you can't figure out what bolt to use in the hole you probably shouldn't have attempted the build. It's common sense man.

[@JTgatoring]

Thanks for your input MattTZew

[@kartikindianarmykewat6668]

Are bhaie ek video hindi me banao

[@kartikindianarmykewat6668]

Are bhaie hindi me video banao