SAAB 900 Inner Driver Replacement and Transmission Overview

[@lambrinos]

One of the best presented car shows on KZbin. Keep them coming!

[@LeeKelso]

Appreciate that. Oh, yeah. There’s more ahead. I just lifted the head off the engine and got an ugly surprise that’s both a setback and an opportunity.

[@RetrocarStyle]

@@LeeKelso I can't wait to see what you found!! I'm on the edge of my seat!

[@amendopublicaccess5742]

I always love to see you uploading more videos. you're presentation is great, its like watching a TV show. thanks for your hard work Lee.

[@LeeKelso]

Doing these videos does mean spending a little more time in the garage, but that’s not a bad thing -right?

[@amendopublicaccess5742]

@@LeeKelso hell ya

[@TheWiseTent]

Awesome instructional. Very easy to follow. Good camera angles and explanations. Can't wait to see more Saab 900 content!!

[@LeeKelso]

Thanks. Just took the engine all the way down to bare block for a rebuild. You’ll see why very soon

[@TheWiseTent]

@@LeeKelso do you have access to a B234L/R engine? I'd love a rebuild series (I own a 9000)

[@theclassicsaabguy236]

Had the vibration under acceleration on my 92 900 turbo convertible , changed the inner drivers and tripods, it then drove like new ! Thanks Lee

[@LeeKelso]

So glad you had success! Did swap from side to side or install new?

[@theclassicsaabguy236]

Lee Kelso I found a good pair of used ones from JamSaab in the UK - but i did fit new tripods - overall the repair went smoothly and it's amazing how small things make a huge difference to performance !

[@LeeKelso]

Just subscribed to your channel. Let's find a way to partner on future videos.

[@theclassicsaabguy236]

Lee Kelso thanks Lee ! Yeah I would love to partner up in a video sometime ! I've really enjoyed your content and has helped me out a lot. Really appreciate what you do.

[@pbutter237]

Lee, you are a brave man! This was the most entertaining and educational episode I've seen so far. I loved, "I'm guessing" and "I've never done this before." One wrong move and oops! 8^) Great job!

[@LeeKelso]

I get input and advice from guys far smarter than me before diving in, but am often over my head. “Phone-a-friend” happens more than I care to admit.

[@dennislin7788]

Great vid as always, love the camera work and proper sound setup. A suggestion, those fasteners are threaded into thru holes and as you saw the gear oil is on the backside. The fasteners and threaded holes in the case should be cleaned and degreased. Prior to installation use thread sealant on the threads of the bolt. Not thread lock, but sealant as this will keep the oil from finding its way out via the threads.

[@LeeKelso]

Totally agree on the thread sealant. Every time you park the car the bolts on the lower side of the drivers have their backsides bathed in hot oil. Thanks for taking note of the production values. Producing these videos requires a little thought and planning. I'm always trying to find ways to make the both educational and entertaining.

[@wannawatch95]

Pleasure to watch as always Lee. Thanks for the share!

[@LeeKelso]

Thanks! Really appreciate the feedback.

[@ejgrae1989]

Really the best way to do this without changing the ring gear backlash (thats what the shims are for) is to remove the circlip from the back of the driver, tap out the driver and swap the drivers whilst keeping the bearing housing and the shims the same as they were set up with the car. (you can then change driver support bearing and the seal quite easily) The bearing housing tolerances are not tight from the factory so even though keeping the shims with the bearing housing is half right its not always going to keep the ring gear backlash within spec it was before disassembly. The reality is that with a worn transmission the ring gear backlash may be well out of spec anyway but you want to avoid changing it if you're not replacing bearings. The other thing that is potentially not useful is that you have swapped the differential bearing outer race (that is mounted inside the inner driver) so you now have a taper bearing rolling on a race that isn't its other half of the matched set. This will affect diff bearing preload and can potentially induce noise wear and failure prematurely as the two bearings had already established a set ( matched wear) when new and that has now been disturbed by fitting a totally different outer race. This can also further affect the ring gear backlash obviously if there is significant more or less wear on the diff bearing raceway in the replacement bearing housing In short - swap the inner driver, keep the bearing housing and the shims the same. It's not much harder and its much better for preserving the ring gear backlash and diff bearing poreload. You can then also change the driver support bearings and seals. - you can swap inner drivers from side to side so that the forward loaded surfaces of the driver are what were previously the reverse loaded surfaces and get double the lifespan out of the drivers. just put a large clean dowel through the spider gears inside the ring gear to hold the spiders in place or they will fall down if you remove both drivers - with it on the bench not such a big deal, but if under the car it's a pain.

[@LeeKelso]

Excellent! You seem like someone I need to talk with. You clearly have much to teach about these cars. Please let me know how to reach you.

[@ejgrae1989]

Sent you a message on Facebook don’t think there’s any chat function on KZbin.

[@pawpawbandit3871]

@@ejgrae1989 do you know of a website or Facebook post that goes over these steps in a complete way (maybe with some photos)? thanks! Also ejgrae1989 - while I'm down there, I need to replace the small plastic gear inside my final drive that turns the plastic gear located at the end of the transmission cable (not the removable gear but the corresponding gear that's part of the transmission itself) ... any advice? think I can get that part somewhere?>

[@ejgrae1989]

bo diddley id suspect you’d have to take a speedo drive gear from another transmission. What’s wrong with yours they almost never break. I don’t know of any other place where there might be this info although if you join a forum like saabcentral often people can guide you.

[@pawpawbandit3871]

@@ejgrae1989; my speedo cable was out of it's holster, rubbing on the drive belts for a long time... it was causing my speedometer to be bouncing and going crazy...but I didn't realize it was the cable ... so I thought I would solve it by replacing the speedo cable... but it turns out that rubbing on the belts actually broke the gear within the transmission itself...; so I've had a car with a good speedo cable and speedometer, and would have working cruise control except for that god damn incident

[@johngoodwyn8246]

Nice Job Lee

[@LeeKelso]

Glad you enjoyed it. What work are you doing on yours?

[@johngoodwyn8246]

@@LeeKelso No Saab's here Toyota pickup doing brakes

[@marczinck2530]

I want to say that my Saab mechanic would swap from side to side during a rebuild. This would effectively move the forward existing wear to be engaged when in reverse after the swap. Curious if others consider the same approach.

[@LeeKelso]

I’ve heard of that approach and it makes sense. But since I had a spare...

[@Farmer2492]

Hi Lee great video i have a 1993 saab 900 convertible with auto gearbox iam thinking of changing to a manual gearbox is it a big job to do i have spoken to a few people and they have said leave the auto in it what do you think. Thank you

[@LeeKelso]

The key question is how do you use the car? I have both a 5-speed and automatic C900. The slushbox has really grown on me. It's perfect for floating around town and casual drives. If my trip involves any highway speed driving, I always prefer the 5-speed. The automatic is churning along at close to 4000 RPM at 70 MPH. Nothing harmful about that, but it's kind of annoying. The gearing on the 5-speed makes it a more pleasant highway driver. And, of course, it's the one I choose when I want to be entertained. My wife and I enjoy inviting friends along for a SAAB convertible convoy. The auto is great because anyone can drive it. It's a big job, but not terribly difficult mechanically. Replacing all the wear items while the engine is out adds to the time and the cost, but it makes sense. Why not change the water pump, control arm bushings, radiator, etc. while it's easy to get to? Let me know what you decide.

[@Farmer2492]

Thank you very much we only Sit on 90 kmh 55 miles an hour on the highway it’s rpm is 3000 I spoke to a Saab place here in Australia they said leave the auto in it unless it fails then change it over my convertible drives nice and gets plenty of looks so might keep it auto for a while I think keep up the fantastic videos

[@Farmer2492]

@@LeeKelso Hi i have decided to stay with the auto for the moment as its in great condition and its coming in to spring over here so the weather is getting better thank you for the great Saab videos, just one more question i wouldnt mind buy a Saab sedan classic what model would be good

[@austinvitoux]

Can't wait to see if mine will be need to be replaced on my '89 SPG. I don't have a parts car I'm willing to take some off of. If they are worn, Scanwest may have some when I send the transmission over there. Regardless, an awesome video!

[@LeeKelso]

Thanks. Hope your SPG stays on the road and gets a workout this summer.

[@austinvitoux]

@@LeeKelso Unfortunately it's up on jack stands getting the full works, or at least the frame is. Everything else is scattered around my garage. Lol

[@caesarmarciales643]

Had total failure in transmission or gearbox. Car will not budge to move in gear or in neutral. WIthout engine hoist, how feasible is it to do in my garage with a car jack, jackstands, and hand tools?

[@LeeKelso]

I assume you're talking about a manual trans? I don't see pulling the engine without a hoist. The engine/trans come out in one piece so you have to lift it fairly high. I've seen reports of guys taking it out from below, but on jack stands that seems like a nightmare. Sorry I don't have better news for you.

[@themarcialesmathmoment5045]

@@LeeKelso thanks. We are trying to formulate a plan, but that also requires finding a good or rebuilt transmission. Still haven’t been able to find parts.

[@vel0city96]

Tip: never ever change both inner drivers at the same time. The inner differential is held in place by these two drivers, so if you take them out at the same time it will fall down in the transmission casing and you'll have a bad time getting that upright again.

[@LeeKelso]

I've read that elsewhere as well. Some have said you could swap the drivers from one side to the other and eliminate the vibration but I don't know how you 'd do that without removing them both as some point in the process.

[@vel0city96]

@@LeeKelso I've had mine reversed as well, as it does indeed remove the vibration (you're making the drive shaft bearing inside the driver run against a fresh surface while the worn side would only get used while driving in reverse). There's probably a tool for that, or you'd need a spare driver, or open the transmission casing at the differential side and somehow get it fixed in place while swapping the drivers around.

[@Валентинляшевич]

Тут есть ценители Саабов из РФ)?

[@LeeKelso]

Да, я слышал от некоторых. Одна из вещей, которые мне нравятся в сообществе SAAB, это его международный характер. Кстати, когда-нибудь слышали о группе Leoneid and Friends?

[@Валентинляшевич]

Lee Kelso, i don't listen adout group L&friends, but look at Youtobe, name of my grandfather is a Leonid)))

[@Валентинляшевич]

Lee Kelso , I and my friends "we love, have and repair" Saab 9000, 900 and Saab 99 ))) P.S.Russian Federation , Leningrad province, on the border with Skandinavia....)))