SAAB 900 Turbo Engine Rebuild Success!

The total tear-down and engine rebuild for a Classic SAAB 900 Turbo is complete, the car is back on the road. See the mistakes I made and hear what I learned in this livestream update. You'll find out why I had to rebuild the engine - TWICE. What a machine shop does to repair pitted cylinder walls, how to install pistons, set valve timing and much more. But, you'll also find out what's still wrong and what's coming next.

[@BusinessMuscles]

Glad to see you back!

[@willmartin8602]

Great content, keep up the good work Lee

[@stevebryan8]

Nice to see it back together. A great achievement and test of character. You have the patience of a saint. These cars can be an obsession! I know how it feels to reinstall the motor and it not be perfect. There’s always things to adjust after the engine goes back in. After all, it wouldn’t be any fun if it ran perfectly!

[@LeeKelso]

Thanks for the kind words, but I am weary of working on this thing. Can't wait for it to be sorted and we can just pile on the miles.

[@earthbarnes6694]

There are mechanics out here that could get that Saab running perfect for you.... Im just saying, live on Saab👌

[@TheDurk96]

Thanks for another great video! The Bentley manual is great but nothing beats some video and person experience. I just pulled my head today and will take it to the machine shop in San Diego on Monday. I don't have a garage so working in the driveway works but isn't ideal.

[@LeeKelso]

Love that determination. While you're in there take note of the condition of your chain guides. A good time to replace the upper one if it's worn or cracked. I think the lower one is available only with engine-out. Best of luck.

[@TheDurk96]

@@LeeKelso The lower one seems to be ok, is it possible to replace the upper one with the engine in? The lower fixed one is in good shape but the upper one is a bit worn. I have the lower, the upper is only available from Europe at 105 Euros plus shipping 😳 I do have a replacement for the upper attached to the valve cover.

[@WesleyDanken]

Thanks for the help currently working on two 900 turbos rebuilding both motors and just lost on what to do thanks for the helpful video

[@LeeKelso]

There are a lot of SAAB-smart people willing to help within model-specific Facebook groups. If you're not part of that community, you're missing out.

[@Plentymoon]

I just bought a 1990 900s non turbo and its a blast to drive it just needs some new hoses, vac lines, fluids, ignition and cleaning up its been reliable these past few weeks I haven't taken one of these engines apart in about 6 years I did my first head gasket on an 83 8v turbo sadly I couldn't afford to fix the timing and other problems at the time and had to get rid of it but it was a blast while it drove.

[@LeeKelso]

Congratulations on your new SAAB. The turbos are more fun, but that doesn't make the non-turbo any less of a pleasure to own. Is it an auto or 5-speed?

[@Plentymoon]

It is a 5-speed and I wouldn't want it any other way.

[@henrikpedersen9839]

Very informative videos, I myself is in the exact same spot as you where. I bought my -91 16V Turbo after sitting 4 years with a broken gasket. 3 out of 4 cylinders had horrible pitting and the shop recommended me to get a replacement engine instead. So that's what I just did, waiting for it to ship out to me any day now. :-)

[@LeeKelso]

That's exciting. Will you be installing it yourself or hiring that done?

[@henrikpedersen9839]

@@LeeKelso I will be doing it myself, I am originally from Sweden and I have owned a ton of 900's over the years. Moved to US in 2013 but missed the Saabs to much. :-) A ton of years ago I totally rebuilt my -81 8V turbo engine so in my mind right now it is.. "How hard can it be" .. :-)

[@LeeKelso]

@@henrikpedersen9839 Love your fearless confidence. Where in the US are you? Is the engine rebuilt or is that part of your process?

[@henrikpedersen9839]

@@LeeKelso I am based in North Carolina, I plan to rebuild the "new" engine as well. I think the original 5-speed gearbox is OK but I might end up with almost the same story as you did (taking the engine out again). I bought the car with the engine busted so I have never driven it.. I will rebuild the engine and hope the gearbox is fine.. :-)

[@LeeKelso]

Again, fearless confidence on display. I fully appreciate the effort ahead. But, after driving the convertible home from dinner with my wife on a warm summer evening, let me assure you the effort is rewarded.

[@michaelproa6154]

nice job man! Thanks for the info!

[@mitreswell]

I changed a couple of head gaskets by myself, and it went okay thanks to Bentley. Problems I had were a few exhaust studs snapped, and I also had to get the exhaust manifold milled flat. Another problem was water leaks from where the inlet manifold joined on to the head. That caused me some grief but I solved it by using another manifold, rather than getting it machined. The idle on your car doesn't sound too good. Wish I could give you some advice there, but it's beyond my diagnostic capabilities. Might be something relatively simple though, like a lifter not pumping up properly. Try and think outside the box? Good luck, cheers.

[@LeeKelso]

Thanks for dropping a comment and sharing your experience. Since this was posted my idle problem is fully resolved. Turns out I had set my exhaust valve timing one tooth off. Just took the car on a 1200 mile round trip to the SAAB Owners Convention and it ran flawlessly - thank goodness!

[@knissaw6959]

It's nice to see the car back on the road, Just one note. The video about the rough idle, have you checked every vacuum line? 900 classics don't like it when the vacuum isn't near perfect. Also, The engine is vibrating quite a bit, might want to check the front motor mount bushing. Looking forward to upcoming videos!

[@LeeKelso]

Just bought a hand-held vacuum gauge/pump to test all the connections. Look for a video when we have a Eureka moment.

[@jerdobi]

Check compression as one cylinder low will cause engine shake at idle

[@pawpawbandit3871]

Geeze Lee this is a nightmare for someone who's hoping to put it all back together and get a reliable driver lol; If I go through with the remainder of getting it back together, I'm really not looking forward to water leaks or anything, yikes!

[@anglegrinder]

I’ll be hopefully starting my rebuild for the first time in a few days, a few people in forums says you should pack the oil pump with Vaseline, what did you do? I used some power punch, and I’m wondering if I should go back and use something thicker

[@LeeKelso]

I did nothing other than try to fill the pump with oil before it's first start. The engine smoked like hell on its first start as the assembly lube and such burned off. That was frightening as I didn't know what to expect, but it's been running pretty well for several thousand miles since. I'm planning a T-5 conversion soon so be watching for that project.

[@kaisertrinityt.m.i.s1607]

my 1993 900 with a new trionic ignition is running pretty soon. gearbox is still in repair, got a new mitsubishi-charger and my engine is close to be completed. when everything is done i can start to cruise or to drive away from some BMW-drivers.

[@LeeKelso]

I'm intrigued by the T5 swap and understand how it can make a big difference. Look for my interview with Jordan Pagano from Modern Classic SAAB to reinforce your decision. I guess because this is a "limited edition" I feel like it should remain OEM. Maybe on my next SAAB....

[@kaisertrinityt.m.i.s1607]

@@LeeKelso i know it. i already talked with jordan himself. he helped me alot with the new trionic system. he is a nice guy. its a pretty simpel system but it does magic with a 900. pretty strange that saab never put it in the 900 since the system got out when the 900 still was in production. or even more magic with the SVC-Prototype Engine with variable compression

[@tepe6500]

I think your problem with the uneven idle is a leak in the valve cover hose that goes in on top of the cover. It was on my turbo 16. By the way, does anyone know where the engine number is stamped on the engineblock of a b202?

[@LeeKelso]

Thanks, I'll take a look but I've been pretty careful about making sure all that rubber is fresh and well sealed.

[@georgea.martin]

Who much do the machine shop charge and where did you order the engine parts from

[@LeeKelso]

I don't recall the cost of machining. Seems like it was $800+ The pistons are by Wossner, but again I don't remember where I bought them other than online. I'll look for more info and post here if I can nail that down.

[@Farmer2492]

Hi I have one question was it a big job to replace the head gasket. thanks

[@LeeKelso]

Hard to answer that without knowing your mechanical ability, tool inventory, etc. It can be done with the engine in the car. You'll need a special socket to remove the head bolts, and replacing head bolts with new ones is recommended. You'll need to remove the timing chain, so you must be familiar with setting the engine timing. It's an involved job with many steps, but none of them are "hard." Check out this video to see more: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWTWeIN_p9B4q7s

[@mattssonfelix3882]

Hi Lee, I have watched almost all of your repair videos on the Saab, and I have taken your advice about the Saab manual, and it has helped a lot, up to this point. I have an 8 valve B201 engine, with side mounted spark plugs, which I noticed had a lot of oil in the threads, as you are a more experienced mechanic than me, do you think this is due to failing piston rings? I find it a bit far fetched, because all four spark plugs are equally oily... Do you have any idea what this might have to do with? Most of the forums don't help because they talk about vertical spark plugs between the cam shafts

[@LeeKelso]

I'd hardly consider myself an experienced mechanic and I certainly don't have any knowledge of your engine. I'll post your question to a Facebook group and see what the collective wisdom has to share.

[@mattssonfelix3882]

@@LeeKelso thank you very much!

[@rocksteadyspeedboatlomboka5119]

Hi Lee, does the engine produce more power with the bore and larger pistons?

[@LeeKelso]

Not enough to make it worthwhile if there's no other need to rebuild the engine. A much better result came from the T5 conversion. This replaces the existing ignition and fuel management system with what's used in the SAAB 9000 and other models. Here's the kit I used: www.modernclassicsaab.com/products/p/classic-900-trionic-5-t5-conversion-kit. Here's more info on how it helps: eeuroparts.com/blog/saab-900-trionic-5-conversion-kits-reach-end-of-production/

[@charlesjohnturner3420]

Looking to convert a 92 900 normally aspirated model to a 900 turbo. I have an 88 donor. Can I replace a partial wiring harness to achieve the goal? Anyone with experience out there?

[@LeeKelso]

I'm no expert, but there are plenty of guys who would qualify on the Classic SAAB 900 Facebook Group. Use the search feature to uncover any discussions on the conversion that have already taken place and if you can't find the info you're looking for, I encourage you to post and ask. It's a very supportive community.

[@themuz3]

lesser men would have given up. good job

[@ab-wg1dy]

I bet you got The timing off by one cog on one of the camsprocket, typically it is om exhaust cam. that Will make The engine run fine on higher rpm and struggle on idle

[@LeeKelso]

Yep, suspect that too and will be checking it this weekend. Also plan to remove, clean and lube the idle air controller.

[@LeeKelso]

You were 100% correct. Timing was off on the exhaust side. I tweaked that and reset ignition timing and it runs much, much better. A video is in the works. Thanks!

[@ab-wg1dy]

No problem, just glad to be able to help, Nice work on the old Saab, i have several different saab's my self.

[@waynesorensen7071]

hi Lee i did the same complete engine rebuild on my '88 turbo convertible so i know what you went through, but its been a few years! on the idle issue, i'm assuming you have checked the timing at the required idle speed and you are 100% sure its right. Further, you have to be absolutely sure you have the correct timing chain alignment with the camshafts. its easy to be out one tooth which can make a huge difference. i don't recall the typical symptom of being out a tooth unfortunately. and your idle speed seems very low - perhaps its too low? IIRC should it be 750rpm? Anyway, hopefully its a timing issue that is easily fixed!

[@willmartin8602]

Yeah idle seems pretty low. I wonder if a quick fix could be manually preventing the throttle from closing to idle. You at least give it 1000 rpm to go to first gear right? You would lose gas mileage but if it’s your summer cruiser maybe it wouldn’t idle that much and wouldn’t matter? I don’t know just offering suggestions!

[@waynesorensen7071]

@@willmartin8602 but even with low idle speed it should not be knocking like that. i hear a kind of whine when he revs it, sounds like really tight PS and Alt belts but could be a very tight timing chain because of being misaligned, or it could be where the microphone is located that is emphasizing it. Lee check your timing chain tensioner as well, just to see what it says.

[@waynesorensen7071]

or what Jerdobi says, it could be a dead cylinder

[@LeeKelso]

I, too, hear a whine. The PS belt is actually a little loose, but I'll check the alt. Also will look at the chain tension. I'm kicking myself for not replacing the chain and guides when it was apart. Nothing looked funky, but should have been proactive.

[@waynesorensen7071]

@@LeeKelso so it turns out your exhaust cam was off one tooth? you mentioned this in your more recent video. so I was right! ;)

[@yorgle]

How much did it cost to have the engine parts milled?

[@LeeKelso]

I think it was about $600. That included boring the cylinders, milling the block and head, regrinding the valve seats, installing valve guide seals. Money well spent in my mind - particularly since I didn't have a choice.

[@fredrik5613]

How much did this cost? Would love to try with my 900, but probably need to make sure i dont run out of money along the way.

[@LeeKelso]

I don't recall exactly. Seems like I paid about $1k to have the head rebuilt and the block bored and skimmed. The pistons were about $700. Other gaskets and supplies were

[@fredrik5613]

@@LeeKelso what do you mean by head rebuilt if I may ask? Like carbon cleaning the valves, air & exhaust pipes / new camshaft Or shaving the block. Myself i got a 900 combi coupe from 87. No turbo, 8 valve, carburetor. B201 block. I want more torque.. my brain hurts from researching so much, without actually getting my options straight. Saw a Turbo 16valves B202 engine for sale from a 9000, it could fit somehow since its from 85 but the engine is not even placed on the same side.. Also its not 45 degrees like mine.. might have trouble with gearbox (could buy his gearbox aswell) Another option is going over the engine keeping it mostly stock, open up for better airflow, lighter flywheel ect ect. But that may be alot of work and money for minimal effect.. Help me..

[@yelandmark7327]

This is my first shot at this KZbin thing, so let’s see if this works? OK? As I peer into this monitor and view your latest build, am I the only one that notices the vacuum line form the intake to the PCV on the valve cover is NOT connected?? It’s laying on top of the AC compressor? Maybe you figured that out as of this writing and this wasn’t the problem and there is an another issue? If there’s a vacuum line not connected here, the engine will react as I see and hear it. At the end of the video and the oil on the cross support was an issue I dealt with for years until I finally did the rebuild of my 1990 turbo (last year), 3 door with manual transmission that we purchased in London in 1990! This wasn’t my first SAAB. My first SAAB was purchased in 1984 (a 1985, same model, both USA models) bought in Scotland through Military car service. 2.1 import tax, owned it for 5 years and sold it for the same price I purchased it for! Both cars were shipped to Portland, direct from Sweden. Back to the leak. We were a one car family and I could never do the required work on the SAAB. Got a second car and last year was the year and I tore into it! Worked on it for ten months (have a store to run)! Your videos smoothed out the corners and showed me NOT what to do! You and Bentley is the perfect manual! I have to laugh at your clutch episode as you tried to get that thrust bearing into that boot! I guess you never heard the end of that? It must have been hard for the bearing to do it’s thing buried in the rubber boot? How did that end? Saw the correction, but didn’t know how you got there? Before the rebuild, the engine was running fine, but I knew it needed an overhaul. At 170,000 miles it was running OK, but what brought me to the rebuild fast, could not shift the clutch anymore and it happened about a mile from my store! Had it towed to my garage and the work began! I had oil in a lot of places (cross support, frame etc.) and as I removed the head it was obvious the head gasket needed replacing! I was lucky nothing else happened, i.e. coolant in the oil pan or cylinder! It was clean. Normal light carbon build up, etc. So, the oil in your cross support, hate to say it, come from the head gasket area, trailed down the block? Or, if your lucky, the valve cover? Why you milled the head, did you explain that? There was an improvement from the head bolts that originally came with the 1990 SAAB. The replacement head bolts that came in the kit had thick washers to help displace/disburse the torque on the head in a more even pattern. The old bolts did not have washers and the bolt head area was small, not to help with displacement pattern! Not only oil was in the cross support, there was an on going film all over the engine compartment and it was also trailing on to the exhaust pipe in the middle of the car (wasn’t the Exxon Valdez, yet!) Good luck on the mystery? Hope you don’t have to pull the head for the third time? I replaced the timing chain (of course). My tensoner was @ 9mm. W/11mm being max. The new chain came in at 4mm! Big difference and it shows in the performance! If you’re interested in what was done: DATE 03/10/2020 MILEAGE 170,000 Maintenance inspection completed Fluids replaced: Flush coolant - Refilled W/Mercedes Coolant Brake fluid bleed brakes - Front & Back Replaced Transmission fluid 90W alternative Replaced Clutch, Master & slave Cylinder Drive belts replaced Oil (Mobil One, 10w30w) and filter changed Replaced Timing chain, reset tensionor Replaced Head gasket and associated gaskets. Replaced Thermostat (82C) Replaced Engine Temp Sensor Replaced Alternator (there’s an across the decades story about this puppy! Bottom line, insure you purchase a known “good” battery! Do not go cheap!) Replaced all rubber bushings - alternator and support arm Replaced rubber vacuum tubing where needed Replaced valve cover by-passed valve Replaced Spark plug wires Replaced fuel injectors Re-timed engine 16BTDC I did other things not listed, like replaced shock bushing, which “were” installed incorrectly by the factory! Metal washer was against the frame, instead of the bushing and it always had a “extra” bump noise across bumps! Must have been in a hurry that day. . .? Disconnect and reconnect electrical connector with diaelectric grease. Disconnect/cut and reconnect vacuum lines. Fuel rail/banjo fitting requires a “special” washer with rubber seal. Insure this has been done or you could have a fuel leak? Now that the job is done, I forgot how this SAAB had the ability to crawl up walls! Goes like a bat out of hell and the SAAB name has been recaptured in this SAAB! No oil leaks! Projects to be done: • Head liner • SRS/Horn issue - Clock spring? • Seats (what do you want for thirty years?) • Front hood - repaint/clear coat (not the original) • Front crank seal has tiny leak! Been like that for years! Now, it’s the ONLY leak and has no friends on the garage floor! • Car garaged all it’s life. . . Your series of DIY SAAB 900 is terrific! Enjoyed the crap out of it! You would be a good Navy training film instructor - perfect guy for that job! Of my projects left above, pick one and I’ll watch? I know you did the seats and liner and I still have that for action. Before the SAAB, we had a 1972 Karmann Ghia convertible (bought new in Charleston, S.C.) and kept that for another 20 years! Unfortunately, Navy life wasn’t good to it and didn’t like the atmosphere it had to reside in - shore life! So in 1984, that’s when we left Scotland with the ‘85 SAAB in tow to meet me here in the Northwest! The reason we went with the SAAB, because a Scottish newspaper guy who delivered all the newspapers to the sub-squadron, was driving a SAAB and it was a snowy day and he told me it would go anywhere, plus all the stowage he had to put the bulk papers! Needless to say, I was amazed! Piece a cake! Plus, my shipmates suggested I look at the SAAB and until that time, I barely new of the name! At that time, we took a trip down to Birmingham, UK, car show, getting ideas and didn’t settle for anything. We were looking at BMW, Jags, Mercedes, Audi, etc. I guess It was too bad we didn’t know about SAAB’s at that time! The other feature about the SAAB was it had front drive. My Ghia didn’t. When we got to the Washington, it was a snowy day in January and we rented a VW Rabbit to get around. It had “front” drive and that was the first time I drove a car with front drive and it was easy to get around on the snow filled roads! Then I couldn’t wait for the SAAB! It took about 60 days or so, for it to get to Portland! It was being sold with the above mentioned cars! It came over on it’s own on the ship! Maybe this is too much diatribe to put on your site page, but I can understand your interest in the SAAB franchise! It’s a fun car to work on and easy to crawl around on! A lot of the components, Bosch, etc. were the same or similar parts as VW’s. That made it easier for me to understand the principles. At least, when something goes wrong, I’ll know the issue and it won’t take a computer to repair it! As long as parts can still be in the supply line, we’re good to go! Maintenance is the key! Did you ever figure out why the “seal” tool didn’t work? I thought that to be very strange? Eeruparts fix you up? Did you know Subaru used the SAAB design? We’ll call this a rap! Wew. . . It’s fun! The SAAB story is a sad one! Been a happy camper for years and this SAAB has been my truck! You’d be surprised what has been trucked in this SAAB all through the Northwest! What a winner. . . Cheers, Doug

[@LeeKelso]

Thanks for getting in touch and sharing your SAAB story. I'll try to answer all your questions. The PCV line was loose because a nipple on the check valve broke and a new one had not yet arrived. The line was plugged so no vacuum leak. The idle problem turned out to be the exhaust cam timing was off by 1 tooth. A video coming soon showing that problem and the fix. I regret not changing the timing chain while I had the engine apart. Oversight on my part. I was in a rush to get the car on the road for summer. I'll have to do a roll-in replacement when the car goes to sleep for winter. This weekend I plan to remove the turbo induction and potentially the clutch to inspect the crank oil seal. I suspect it's the cause of the leak. It was replaced but may not have seated. As you saw, it's happened before. And, yes, EEuro did happily refund on that tool. I was apparently the first to buy one from that production run and it was not built correctly. The SRS light typically requires a Tech 2 scan tool to correct. Chinese-made knock-offs and the necessary software are available. A local buddy has one that I've used to reset my SRS light - which happens to be flashing yet again. It's clear you've spent a good amount of time watching my videos. I appreciate that. My goal is to inspire other guys to "get dirty" and it's rewarding to hear from people who are now hands-on supporting their cars. I'm talking with an Australian guy soon about collaborating on a project. We may be converting the engine out of my wrecked car to T5 with his remote coaching. Might be cool to have him shoot and illustrate some of the steps on his car and I duplicate on mine.

[@waynesorensen7071]

@@LeeKelso Lee what is the code being thrown on the SRS light ? Also, the T5 idea is excellent - i'd like to do the same on my '88. although it seems quite complex and might need alot of expertise for troubleshooting/refining once installed. it is NOT a plug and play exercise! you may also want to find a parts car that you can scavenge the needed parts from, or you'll have to purchase the kit for mucho dinero...

[@waynesorensen7071]

really surprised the end plates needed to be milled - honestly that does not make sense. the coolant system does not involve the end plates. milling the head can obviously affect your timing chain tension, but that's about it, from what i know.

[@LeeKelso]

Imagine a letter H. The engine block is the cross bar and the end plates stick up above it just a mm or so. Since the cylinder head extends over both of the end plates it can't seal to the block and therefore leaks coolant. Wish I was smart enough to recognize that sooner.

[@39gripen83]

Only in USA. Never had an engine rebuild on 99's and my 900's turbo's. Run 400 000 km's whit no strugless. In USA, cars whit 10 years+ are neglected. In Scandinavia we have not this engine problems.😊

[@39gripen83]

Struggless=striving

[@kevinchamberlain7928]

"Video about a man talking about a rebuild" would be more accurate.

[@earthbarnes6694]

So Saab is a Bentley too....Ha Ha Ha lol

[@MS-hg3hl]

Estaría bueno qué enfoques más el trabajo todo el video y hables de fondo.. que enfocarte mas a vos hablando y muestres poco.. un detalle a mejorar