Sail Life - Dang it! Structural members & demolishing the head - DIY boat restoration

[@KittieKute]

Dear Mads and Ava, Just word of support for doing a job well! Sometimes a boat is a labor of love. My husband and I are restoring a 26' racing yacht, after finding the very same thing, rotten stringers. We gutted the entire inside to 3mm of gelcoat and used the hull as a reverse mold. Now rebuilding the entire thing in 420 biax fiberglass and 650 carbon twill. Don't listen to the naysayers, follow you heart. Enjoy the journey. MERRY CHRISTMAS.

[@ELCADAROSA]

"Right now, you're looking at December 8th, 2018, Mads ..." I watched this again, coincidently, on December 8th, 2022; four years to the day. You and Ava have accomplished so much in the past four years. I hope when you two look back on these videos in your "golden years" that you are filled with a sense of pride for all that you have done, from start to finish. I've said it before, and I'll say it again, you've come a long way, Mads, from your humble & modest beginning to the world-class videographer and traveler you are today. Should you & Ava have children, they'll have a wonderful record to look back on. And so will your grandchildren. ... May your skies be forever sunny, The seas ever calm, And the winds always at your back.

[@M-Swede]

Perhaps the bright side is something like this: the focus of this channel is the reno and now there will be even more for everyone to enjoy. I'm looking forward to seeing the design you come up with for the new interior. It's something you'll look back on and be glad you did it. Have a good time in L.A.

[@bwellin]

Hey, Mads! Don't sweat the structural stuff too much. You'll end up with a better boat and your fans will rejoice that we get more DIY boat repair videos! We love what you're doing, so keep it up. This channel is my favorite and I look forward to every episode. Merry Christmas and thanks for all you do.

[@nelsonfortier]

Nice work man! Don’t get discouraged!!! All part of boat life. Just rebuilt 2/3rds of a 63’ wooden yacht from the waterline down. As you can imagine, we weren’t expecting it. But Holy Smokes! What a crazy 9 months that was. But you’ll (along with my wife and I) get through it by thinking of what we’ll learn next and how much better it will be when we’re done. Boat has been back in the water and cruising for about 2 years now, but we’re able to enjoy our more aesthetic projects more than ever, knowing she’s got good bones again. I’m sure you’ll make wise (and educated) decisions like you always do. And thanks for sharing the genuine ups and downs inherent to boat life with such spirit... it selfishly motivates our progress. 😉

[@JimKJeffries]

The last idea is, you are awesome. Be well, feel good, & you will keep doing your best & you will gain & succeed with whatever you pick. It is a joy to see & thanks for sharing yourself, you got this. All the great stuff you have built let's you know you are ready...badass sir.

[@meldrumart]

You are so positive! A very good personality trait for someone who is renovating an old boat.

[@rasmuskurten8455]

Tillochmed den evige optimisten Mads ser förstörd ut. Och med all orsak. Jag håller tummarna för att reparationen inte blir allt för omfattande! I feel you som det heter. Tack för att vi får följa med dina äventyr - en stor inspiration!

[@buffettfanman]

Plan your work and work your plan! Make plenty of templates from the stuff you remove, make sure you have a full list of supplies needed. Then make sure you have tools needed or think you need blades bolts etc. make room for the Friday night surprise you get to the end of the week only to find you are short on something. Confidence: you are a very competent guy, you tackled replacing the upper deck which some people would not have touched. You did a great job in doing it. This is like building a wall only laying down. What I'm trying to say is you got this!

[@valmikabeneteau7229]

I am from 4 years in the future and I will tell you. Everything will work out for you. Your boat will be awsome

[@NewTestamentDoc]

I've heard it said that the true measure of a person's character is not how he handles success, but how he handles obstacles. You, my friend, are an inspiration. Despite my being disabled, your videos have inspired me to tackle a few projects on my boat. I trust you will find a perfect remedy. This is part of the journey. I'm rooting every week for you !!

[@owiela]

I think this is the most down I've ever seen/heard you. It's a gutting feeling when you have to delay plans and do something you never wanted to do in the first place.... But your experiences will provide you with a wealth of knowledge and, like you say, you have the benefit of deciding how you want the cabin to perform. I think this will be exciting! Almost designing a new house! Can't wait to see how it all turns out. In the meantime though (and I'm sure I speak for most of here), we'll keep following and enjoying every Monday! :D YOU GOT THIS!

[@memolei]

From outside, you've already made her look better than brand new. I'm sure you'll handle inside like a champ as well. Keep your chin up Mads! Great job...

[@Reuben-]

Thank you for the Audible recommendations. To many times creators have talked about them as sponsors, but never made recommendations. So good that you did! I need another book to listen to on my walks.

[@galebray7050]

I know it is discouraging when you have come so far these past few years, but it will bug you forever if you cut corners now. Most importantly, do not stress about it. Take your time, research all your options and proceed with the plan that gets you the structural integrity you need for the time and money that you are comfortable spending. Rejoice in the progress you have made. You have done some amazing repairs with a resolve to see that it is done correctly, and with humor and grace that is commendable. Merry Christmas!

[@Howodd42]

I've truly been enjoying watching you rebuild Athena. and I'm crushed with the damage you found in the floor I can only imagine how bad it is for you. I just wanted to write and let you knowI admire your optimism of looking at this as an opportunity to rebuild Athena to your liking. And I wish you nothing but the best of luck with it.

[@pilismais]

We will enjoy spify sail life vídeos forever!!

[@Allformyequine]

lol, I thought the same thing! I just luv watching them no matter what he's doing: "and so it shall be" poor guy tho, how frustrating!!

[@salmonforever6088]

Mas, No worries mate. I have been there before and wanted to cry. You had a great idea with the Coosa board. I used a metric ton of Coosa on stringer rehab with bi axial glass for excellent results. Pull through build her as you want and it will be worth it. You won't be disappointed in the end. I am cheering for you!

[@kevinmoran415]

Your patience and persistence is EXTREMELY influential. I have learned a lot from you over the years, and this video proves my point. Thanks Mads.

[@TheTitrans]

Hey, Deep breath... You knew deep down that this was going to be an issue. So do what you've been doing - take it one part at a time, document, learn, enjoy the journey. Now, I can't help you other then provide you words of encouragement (and a little $$$). But you got this! Your opportunities to make Athena just what you want is perfect! My kids and I were all saying - why is that port light split between two rooms? He is going to move that wall, he's got to move that wall.... I have been watching you with Athena and now it's become a family routine on Sunday night as a last item of the day to watch you be Spify! - Thank you! I'm in Michigan, "The Great Lake State" - I bought a smaller older boat (power) for me and the kids to project on and enjoy. It was your channel that inspired me to do this and I could go on and on but, just know we are all pulling for you. And trust me, you will get it all done and you will want to do it all again... I will try to write more, but you have such a great fan base that knows way more then me... Larry

[@michaelkeyse1799]

In times of adversity requiring fortitude and solution you would be the man to have alongside. Best wishes from New Zealand. M K

[@j.brianbobiak12]

I wish I had your positivity. I have every confidence in your ability to tackle the replacement of the structural members. My heart sunk though thinking of all the work that you'll need to re-do. Practice makes perfect though and as you said, You'll have a truly custom layout. The end product will be awesome. You've been there and will do that but I'm buying the t-shirt. :-)

[@mikaelreichel3759]

Mads, hang in there. You are such a talented and bright guy and looking back having repaired all those rotting parts will be great sense of satisfaction. You will probably make its better than new. After all it is not closet to the job of the deck and hull. Yes, put in Cooza board. Have great time in LA.

[@windonwater3895]

Tearing up the supports beneath the sole would provide lots of instruction - and I know that is where you are deriving a good part of your income. If it weren't for that, I'd strongly recommend stopping short and, instead beginning the long process of buttoning things back up. I predict you won't have the boat more than 5 or 6 years after you finish and I don't see much point in making it last another hundred years. Part of the value (and attraction to) your channel is to see how you make decisions - weighing the pros and cons etc. I'm the type that loves projects but I also like going sailing. Thanks for another great show. Ron

[@denooc3379]

Yeah!! No reason to feel down on this it just gives you the perfect opportunity to create the inside of the boat exactly the way you want!! Also I like the idea of moving the head bulkhead out past the port light.

[@donstagg2364]

The base of the shower could be lower than the cabin sole and would help keep water where you want it.

[@SailLife]

That's a very good idea! :)

[@manfredschmalbach9023]

... and a showerbilge pump (membrane sewer pump) capable of transporting longer hair in nests. Great relieve.

[@TheStrikkegenser]

@@SailLife You can also make a hatch of crossed wood members that you can remove when you shower, this way you can have a flat floor when you dont shower.

[@numidian5191]

@@SailLife plus it gives you more head room!

[@adamedward205]

Honestly theres a really simple way to do this and fully support the hull, you have the engine in, add the rudder and just stick her in the water and do this whilst afloat, nothing can support it more evenly.

[@jimnickles2347]

THIS is An IDEA!

[@alexcouto9772]

Mads, this week's video is like that final episode of The Game of Thrones were all the family is killed and we're all in awe... but then... the next series came out and life was good again (for us the viewers at least). I've seen all your videos since you've started making them. Not all at once but having to wait week by week. I could tell you by heart all your major projects on both boats and very often I mention this channel as my all time favourite to my sailing friend. I do feel your pain and uncertainty at present but... Do not be discourage and please do keep inspiring us .

[@SailingYachtSaltyLass]

Sand the sides of the stringers and add extra glass, then remove the tops of dig out the rotten core. That way you get hollow members like a modern design. If you lay up enough glass, you do not need the plywood at all and the advantage is that you do not need to rip everything out. Of course, if you really WANT to rip the inside out and do a total redesign, then REVEL in it.

[@theq68]

Lets just face the reality and agree that as sad as it might be the decision to gut the boat and rebuild is the only option, specially taking into account what he already did, any other option would drive him crazy. Go for it Mads we will follow you on this journey and cheer you up as you go. If you ever come by Dublin I would gladly pay you a pint and to your gall too.

[@fritzonvespa]

I guess this has been in the back of your mind for quite awhile. Wondering if you could lay extra support layers of glass along the sides of the stringers to bring them out to 8 mm wall thickness? Then open the tops and remove the rotten timbers. The newly thickened stringers would keep the hull shape intact. Remove as much timber mechanically as you can and then possibly use an enzyme based product to eat the residue cellulose. Replace timbers with foam ( expanding closed cell urethane perhaps? ) then re-glass the tops of the stringers and a final layer over the lot to bring it all out to 10 mm thick. Have a great Christmas !

[@leonardkevin12]

If anyone else were to take this on it would be a complete disaster, but you have the patience, attention to detail and expertise to succeed!

[@pettermathersimonsen6029]

Do not really know what to say, other than, I feel for you and admire your courage and ability to focus even when Dang It! is so insufficient. Enjoy LA and shareing days with GF.

[@___Tom]

wow Mas, you are so stress tolerant! Congratulations to your healthy and robust psych.

[@guidoising]

Hi Mads, you are so brave! Seeing what Athena has become as of Sept 2021 all the hard work was certainly worth it!

[@LEWBASSETT1]

The fact that you can discover that your in for a lot more work and can still classify it as fun is what makes your videos so inspiring and unique. Well done!!!!

[@corruption902]

As much as it bites that you have extra work to do replacing the stringers, it's better to do it while you're already working on the boat rather than having it at the back of your mind while under way. I must admit that I'm looking forward to seeing the interior gutted, partly because I don't want your videos to end, but also because I can't wait to see what you end up doing in regards to customizing the cabin! Coosa board is more expensive than plywood, but knowing that you'll never have to worry about rot again is worth the extra investment if you can swing it. I love your thought process and seeing your visions come to fruition, keep up the awesome work!

[@stevegem4155]

If I were going to do this, I would take a surgical approach. I would cut the top one inch off of each girder get the nastiest auger bit I could find and a heavy duty drill, and drill out all the wood and clean out each area leaving the fiberglass intact . some thickened epoxy with some new plywood pieces and slide them down into place glass back over the top and down the sides of each girder,and call it good . No gutting of the interior and no external supports needed .

[@davidbrown8365]

My thoughts exactly. And then put a good number of layers of epoxy & glass on the outside to emulate the modern boats that have only grp structural frames

[@manfredschmalbach9023]

Interesting. Might be a LOT more work than deconstructing all, ripping/chinesesawing out everything and starting anew with better materials and in a way better, Mads-quality craftsmanship, and would not lead to a compareably good result in terms of voidfree structural stringers and subframes either. And keeps him from (re-) building his personal, real owner version.

[@eriksvedlund5961]

Fully agree, no need to replace everything. Remove core, replace core, add fiberglass on the outside. But if you still choose to do so we will be watching and cheering for you.

[@wagzz3000]

@@eriksvedlund5961 Biggest problem would be that the core is the structure, not the glass. So removing core in chunks would leave the superstructure weak at each of those joints.

[@peterkacandes5905]

john wagner I think the point being that you only do one small section at a time, not the whole thing all at once.

[@davemasbutter266]

Love your videos & the most important thing I’ve learned from them is that I never want to buy an old boat. Cheers

[@paulkube3901]

I agree w/ Sonodor. Glass over and tab well to hull. The only dif between leaving in and replacing all is a ton of work. FRP doesn't care what the substrate is, as long as the skin is structural. Use existing grid as a "plug/form" and glass away! Best to you and yours.

[@thekingofsx]

I'm so torn, on one hand, I feel bad because that sounds like a ton of work, and it pushes back your timeline to sail with Ava, but on the other hand more glorious glorious fiberglass and sanding videos, with a bonus side of complete boat re-design!

[@benjaminens5350]

You really are an inspiration. Keep plugging along Mas. I haven't a helpful hint .... just want to see how you'll tackle the problem.

[@neleabels]

Your advertisement inserts are perfectly ok. with me. You produce brilliant contents which I enjoy so much and just a minute ago, I ordered "Two years before the mast" as an ebook, because I prefer reading to listening. Please continue your great work - I am looking forward to the time when you finally have created your life-aboard home because I have already learned so much about boat building from you and hope to learn more in the future! :)

[@CalVlogz]

Sister the beams as is and re-glass. Don’t gut

[@aaron230185]

Brook Calvert spot on!

[@zacharyschweter6466]

didn't see - BRAVO!! that's what we do with historic structures as I am an Architect (not that it means much - but is faster!!! )

[@gasparddelaforce2764]

Extra cheese sounds great. Whatever happens it'll be fun viewing for a lot of us. Good luck and have a great break.

[@latitudeash]

Marry Christmas, forget about the mountain of work ahead..... The up side for me is I love watching your vids, and I do not own a. boat or even plan to get one. Infact i have never sailed on a boat. That is a testimony to the great and fasinating work you are doing. All the best, keep smiling

[@sethwilliamson]

This probably falls under the category of things that wouldn't sit well with you, but recall as you mentioned that newer boats use low-density foam or nothing at all in there. In other words, _if_ the fiberglass is sufficiently thick, the condition of the wood is inconsequential. That means you could simply leave it in place. Don't dig out anything. Simply grind down the paint to bare glass, and start building up more thickness until you have enough for it to act on its own. Rotten wood or low-density foam can both be a left-in-place mold. It would be well worth the cost in saved material alone, let alone time, to pay a marine architect or engineer their consulting fee to tell you exactly how many mm you need. If you want to do some learning yourself, I recommend _Elements of Boat Strength_ by David Gerr, and the ultimate reference, _Skene's Elements of Yacht Design_ by Norman Skene and Francis Kinney. Both will walk you through the calculations. That said, having watched you for years now, I know the idea of leaving the wood there will be distasteful. It'd bug me too, even if it was structurally no less strong than LD foam or a void.

[@appick01]

Your so much better of a man than me! Had this been me it would've been a constant litany of cursing. That's a big repair and not one that I envy you of. Having to tear out all your work on the electrical system can not be an easy pill to swallow. Cheers to you Mads happy holidays may your never ceasing patience endure!

[@nsw1959]

You've got this. I suggest instead of ripping out all your hard work, sister new members into the bilge. You'll lose a bit of space but save a TON of time. The remaining stringers will stay encapsulated in glass forever and structurally Athena will be stronger than new. Work smarter not harder. You're doing great!

[@cabincruiserlittlebigtime8445]

With the quality and craftsmanship that you put into athena she will no doubt be considerably better than when she was brand new.

[@urlkrueger]

Mads, when you get to LA you and Ava take some time for some good lov'in. You both probably need it right now. And just remember there is a whole fresh new year coming. A time for new ideas, new projects, new challenges, all the things that keep us going.

[@peterwinchester7796]

I'm really sorry for you Mads, I remember thinking way back after you did the hull, do that next. However I completely believe in you. You will overcome all obstacles, I truly believe that. Please don't let the spiffyness in your heart die. Athena will float and you and Ava will sail off into the sunset and this will become the No1 cruiser channel. ✌🏻💚

[@bodybait]

We knew this for a while. Mads has shown several design problems in their bilge for the boat. He since then fixed a "wet haul" and added drainage holes in the structural members due to bad design. This is a win win. We get more videos. And Mads gets to rebuild an entire boat.

[@craigleemehan]

My experience from watching you solve problems, is the same as every technical team I have worked with: every problem has a solution and this team (you) have always found a workable solution. Enjoy your holiday season.

[@RenegadeADV]

Mads, 1. a battery powered saws-all is a must have! I have one that I keep on my boat, and when you want to do things like have a camp fire on the beach, it is great for making up firewood! It is also super useful for many other things! I have a Dewalt, great piece of kit! 2. I like your plan for moving the shower bulkhead forward although id go with a 45 degree corner unless you are planning on rounding the other simply because uniformity prevails! Like you I am a big tall guy, and having room to shower is a big deal! I think you are on the right track there, and I like the technical room, although I would also look at converting some of that space into a cockpit locker where you can keep your outboard for your dinghy, and or sails. I can keep my 5hp Johnson in my cockpit locker, and it is so nice knowing thieves cannot see it to steal it, plus I think it just looks better not having the engine sitting on deck! 3. When it comes to your floor problem, if it was my boat, I would simply lay up a ton more glass over the top and make the glass the structural member instead of ripping everything out. While I am sure it will be very enjoyable to have that project, it is simply the time aspect. If you are going to wind up gutting her, I would get the gutting done, get the floors fixed, then get her launched so during the rebuilding process you are not climbing up and down a ladder over and over and over and over again! As well if you do the fiberglass now you can put the interior back in, and get sailing sooner, then if later on you decide that you want to gut the cabin and have a do over, you can do the major demolition then! I think for you and Ava the sooner the boat can be sailed the more you will enjoy it, and if you decide to do the major interior rebuild, you could first sail the boat to say San Diego or SF Bay where boat yards abound, and you can be closer to her. Hope you have a Merry Christmas and a happy new years, and thank you for the stickers!

[@andrewreid3983]

I think it is great that you have to do a re-build as we get to see more of you. I love the commitment and positive attitude given the task ahead, you are a pleasure to watch and I look forward to seeing what happends next. Merry xmas to you, stay safe and don't change a thing about your channel. Regards Andrew from The great southern land.

[@ripvanwinkle9028]

Yout patience is remarkable.

[@yakekaj]

Totally gutted for you Mads, I'm sorry that you have this problem, but on the upside we get to view loads more videos of DIY fun aboard Athena!! Keep up the good work...

[@michaelwallace897]

My condolences to all the beautiful work on the in side so far, but as you said you will now have a chance to do it all over again. You have have my vote of confidence you gots this bro.

[@astratheus]

We will be here...cheering for you!

[@netpackrat]

I won't be suggesting anything that others haven't already brought up, but I think the most efficient permanent solution will be some variant of 1) increasing the thickness of the fiberglass of the existing beams, and 2) removing plywood from those beams wherever it is not too inconvenient to do so, and replacing with new material, maybe bedded in epoxy thickened with something like milled glass fibers. And 3) making sure that there are enough limber holes and that they are located properly to ensure good drainage to where the bilge pump can remove any more water that gets into there, paying special attention to sealing the limber holes with epoxy and glass to halt further water intrusion into the stringer cores.

[@lisahanlin5317]

It is so nice to see you smiling through everything..great attitude Mads

[@JaapvanGoor]

Well at least all of us have many more hours of fun DIY videos to watch in the not so far future. I am sure Athena will turn out to be the palace you both want to set sail on. For replacing the structural parts you might consider to replace them in order 1, 3 and then 2, 4 etc.. This way the remaining ones will be enough support while the others are being replaced. But of course this makes working more difficult as it is easier to work in a completely empty space. And maybe you will not have to replace the entire length of all structural members. On wooden boat restoration they also can suffice by changing a rotten part and glueing in a new piece. Great to have some time off and make a plan while sitting under the Christmas tree in Sunny LA :-)

[@reneeversen]

I'm looking forward to a hole lot of DIY sailboat videos coming up!!

[@clarkd1955]

I think you are lucky to have all that fun to come. Seriously, I love your positive attitude. Fair winds.

[@YELLEBG]

Wow, that sucks! On the bright side, you will have the peace of mind of knowing that Athena is basically a brand new boat once you're done. Plus, like you said, this will give you guys the opportunity to change the layout as you see fit. It may turn out to be a blessing in (deep) disguise. You are a very patient, positive, and meticulous person Mads. I've learned a lot by watching your vids, and not just about rebuilding a boat. Fair winds!

[@ninehundreddollarluxuryyac5958]

You've got a lot of good suggestions here. A lot of comments mentioned sistering in additional supports which would probably work best for you. Since you mentioned that newer boats use formed fiberglass stringers, or foam with lots of fiberglass laid over it where the glass itself is the stringer and foam is just a mold for the glass, why not use the rotten stringers like a foam mold and just lay a lot more fiberglass over the top of them. Make the glass layers add up to 6 or 8 mm, and the boat will be strong even after the wood turns to mush. You're lucky that you have such good access to the rotted stringers. You can reach under the kitchen to lay up glass there without removing any more of the interior of the boat.

[@chasemixon6327]

Just sending some love, I know how much of a bummer finding that in the stringers was. Whatever you decide to do, I know it will be fun watching you do it! :)

[@nelsonp2093]

Bad luck, I understand you, I wouldn't have a piece off mind knowing that something in my boat is half good, or prone to fail. There is always a easy solution, but often not the better one. After all is your boat, your time and your money. I hope you and your girlfriend a nice Christmas and new year. Thanks to post your videos, it helps me a lot. Experience cost money, I take as much i can from others. Thanks.

[@TheGuit1]

Long time silent viewer, this episode calls for a supporting comment. You are doing an impressive job on Athena. I enjoy your videos every week and I’m sure you will be turning these wet pieces of wood into video gold. Sending you motivation from France. Keep up the good work!

[@chip9177]

I knew a guy that fixed a transom without cutting out the back of the boat. He cut the layer of glass off the top edge and then used a chain saw from the top edge down into the transom envelope to vacate the rotten wood leaving the glass structure in place. Installed new material and re-glassed the top. Looked remarkably easy. Others below have same type of ideas..and with long runs you could do in sections and each sections mating end you could cut the ends(Kerf?) at long angles so there is a major overlap. Maybe even run a few lag bolts in the kerf. That and epoxy would be strong. Just trying to think of ideas to save from ripping out all the completed projects. - I remember thinking when you first mentioned the joker way back when that the Joker should be sooner rather than later. Hindsight 20/20 Bonus for us, more DYI. It will be fun regardless of your solution. Merry Christmas & enjoy your time off.

[@jeffknapman191]

I've heard this a few times. The thing I've always thought is what about the chain oil - contamination etc. is there a way of lubing the chainsaw bar that doesn't result in oil going everywhere?

[@kaceykant8437]

Love the boat work. Glad its you and not me, LOL. I would definitely move the shower bulkhead to incorporate the port light inside the shower area. Maybe even opt for a portlight that can open for ventilation. I have always thought those portlights looked odd with the bulkhead in the middle of them. Sort of "oops, we messed up at the boat yard fix"

[@buynsell365]

Another great job Mas. The option I was thinking is to build new supports between the old. Then you can leave the old there or cut the tops off like mentioned below, cut out old wood and re-glass. This way the boat will be super solid and by building the new supports between the old (before you do anything to them) the hull will remain supported and not require any outside supports of any kind. Just a thought. You already did the impossible by replacing the top side of the boat.......this is cake walk compared to that. Keep up the great work.

[@stephencrowther524]

Don’t worry,think of all the experience you are going to gain ! I’m sure you’ll enjoy some of it. My inclination,for what it’s worth,would be to sister what I could. All’s well,what a fantastic boat you will have. On the downside,some owners of the same boat will be approaching a nervous breakdown ! Happy Christmas/holidays. 👍👍👍

[@badassturnip8039]

Sorry to see that your "To Do" list just grew more than you'd like, but as usual your infectious enthusiasm and optimism will see you through. Just another job on the list my friend.

Hi and greetings from Norway. That is rotten luck with the plywood. At the same time I am happy for all the new content this will entail :)

[@bill4nier]

Wow! Ouch, that was a bit of bummer! But at least, in the end, this is going to be one awesome spiffy sailing vessel! Wishing you some great ideas on this issue. Thanks for sharing. May you and Ava have a very Merry Christmas!

[@mikesorensen9899]

Mads, the structural elements that make up a grid under the sole of Athena are rectangular tubes made of fiberglass. The top of the tubes are the top spar caps. The bottom of the tubes are the bottom spar caps. The vertical parts of the tubes are the webs. To increase the strength of this structure you could add material to the top or bottom or both spar caps, but not to the webbing. Or you might add to the vertical distance between the top and bottom caps. In Athena's case each of these is impractical. The answer to improving the strength of Athena's structural grid would be to add more top spar cap material along the sides of the present spar cap. This would not involve building any cradles etc., to prevent sagging or twisting. While it would be nice to get rid of the moisture inside the grid structures it is not necessary as the web provides little to zero structural strength.

[@ChristofferETJ]

Tak Mads, fordi du bekræfter mig i min beslutning om at bygge en ny båd i stedet for at renovere en gammel.

[@swannabe3764]

Here are my thoughts on the head, for what it's worth, bring the wall forward as you suggested but put the door there then the toilet and sink would be to the left allowing you to have the shower in the rear which would allow you to have a seat in the shower against the hull and allow more standing room in the higher part, and a waterproof hatch in back of shower which would allow you access to the technical room

[@SVKajsa]

... and the list of upcoming work goes on. Never ending story. I'm sure Ava will be grateful for decorating her own galley. Don't forget that we're 52K people cheering for you!

[@njp101]

Well even though that is really bad news for you, I think a lot of us subscribers are really looking forward to seeing how you tackle this problem. Sure makes for some really good KZbin content.

[@genedieken164]

Install new transverse stringers one at a time parallel to the current ones with only enough separation for good tabbing. Remove each rotten stringer once its replacement is in place. The fore-aft stringers can be installed in sections between each transverse using stainless angle iron and bolts before glassing. This eliminates the need for tweaky exterior bracing to preserve the hull shape.

[@fedvoxavoxa]

more content for us mate! don't be upset, we will follow your journey wherever it takes us! athena is a little bit ours too, and we all want the best for you twoo!

[@soving]

And now for some more glorious glorious grinding and sanding. Always an upside. Stay strong friend.

[@davidbutler5114]

It's better to know than always worry. A couple of the fixes suggested look promising. Merry Christmas, enjoy the sun.

[@hakanskogstjarna5180]

On purpose I went back to find this particular sequence when you altered course for the interior. Looking at Athena as of today (Oct/Nov 2020) I must say you ended up with a much, much more welcoming main cabin, nav station and all! Impressive job Mads!

[@joshuarosen6242]

I’m replying to this another year later and this is even more true now. I’m sure Mads and Ava are glad now that they decided to do this properly. Just getting rid of that bulkhead that bisects one of the port lights is a good enough reason if you ask me. It looks fantastic now.

[@bphenry]

Yay! Another 2 years (at least) of glorious sanding!

[@flyinggybe2113]

Regarding the core for the stringer/frames, consider the following. Before finalizing your assessment of the core condition, consider drawing some intact core sample plugs with about a 15 mm hole saw, with center drill bit removed once holes started. This allows much better core assessment for tension, shear, and compression strength. Consider drying core moisture with a good vacuum pump and heat lamps or blankets. Connect a vacuum pump to removed tops or core sampling holes in wettest areas. Works best if vacuum pump drawing 23 inches Hg or more on the core, and core heated to about 80 degrees C. Seal all cracks and sampling holes not connected to the vacuum hoses. It’s best to minimize air movement thru core from the outside, so the vacuum will more uniformly reach out thru core wood pores, not just draw air thru limited pathways leading to holes and cracks. This process takes a little time, probably a week or two to dry your wet stringers/frames, but you can run the vacuum and monitor temps while doing other projects. Consider just leaving the deteriorated, semi deteriorated, but dried wood core and glassing enough stringer and frame grid lams over the existing structure so that the wood core, regardless of condition, is no longer structurally needed. Use the services of a naval architect/engineer to provide the new FG lam schedule. Maybe carbon or Kevlar lams just for fun? This approach may be possible without removing much of the remaining interior, and probably lose considerably less than ½” headroom in salon. It may be possible to route channels in the floorboard bottoms so no headroom is lost. This also avoids the risk of the boat changing shape if all the stringers/framing removed. The vacuum pump would also work to vacuum bag the stringer/frame lams for extra strength and stiffness if desired.

[@honorharrington4546]

First thing I would do is get out my drill and drill shallow holes as wide as the core of the stringers about 4 to 6 inches apart in the top of all the stringers. This will let it dry out while you are on vacation. A penetrating epoxy would not be cheap but it would be a permanent repair and would let you focus on doing your improvements. This has the added benefit of not needing to support the hull and not affecting the floor height and you can let it dry over the winter and repair in the spring. Using penetrating epoxy to repair stringers is a well proven method of dealing with rot and leaves the boat stronger while replacing the wood just returns the boats strength. I have replaced stringers and I have helped treat stringers and if I ever have to do it again I will use the epoxy!

[@aserta]

Yeah, i had a fear that might be the case. It's a nasty situation, certainly not something you want to see under your feet, BUT, you can do it. I have every confidence in your abilities and determination that you can pull this off. Just don't hurt your back.

[@MrJamesIreland]

Hi Mads. I enjoy your videos every week and am a new Patron). While not a boat builder I am a home DIYer in Canada and can feel your pain. My wife and I have renovated and sold 4 places now and have had a few of those “oh fiddlesticks” moments half way through a project. I remember spending a Saturday sitting in an uninstalled bathtub in the living room of one of our projects drinking beer due to discovering some “bad news”. But all worked out in the end after a bit of hard work. Don’t let it get you down. As Red Green says: “if they don’t find you handsome they should at least find you handy”. Keep your stick on the ice.

[@BorisFett]

On the up side you might get to have a custom boat in the end ! Your videos rock, thanks for taking all the time to make great content.

[@charabanc1418]

If anyone can do this extra work, you can! Keep going. She is going to be one superb yacht.

[@garygreen8737]

TOTAL REFIT ! DANG ! ALL THE BEST ! HAPPY HOLIDAYS !

[@floathi]

Ah .. decisions decisions . What ever direction you go Mads I'm sure it will be well thought out and done right. Happy Holidays to you both

[@davidlappleby]

Never seen you so down, even with the attempted brave face. You can do it! You will succeed! You will inspire the rest of us!

[@danieldonaldson8634]

Start by making accurate doorskin templates that fit properly at an offset from the existing pieces. Install those with a thermal glue you can heat to remove easily. Those will stabilize the hull shape while repairing. Once those are in place, template and cut out the existing lateral pieces, and replace them with something you can live with: plywood with fibreglass, or just box section, or foam cored fglass laminate. Then tab those in, and remove the original support pieces. Do the same with the longitudinal pieces. By using CNC you can create a highly accurate bolt-together replacement for any piece: that and modern adhesives will produce pieces that are stronger than the originals.

[@StellarSailor]

I love your videos, genuinely the highlight of my weekend. I am looking forward to learning about how you fix the structural members. You won't have any problem with that!

[@SailSmileReDo]

99.99% of folks would cry out "Oh God, Why Oh Why!!!" I guess You have a rare opportunity to say "What Good can I get out of it)))" Having followed you for a while, we have no doubt - You'll come out of this even stronger than You used to be