Want to Sleep Soundly at Anchor? Try This!!!

[@dougshirley3460]

You picked an excellent & very forgiving style of anchor for the demo. Can't go wrong with a Bruce. I used to be a Danforth/Fortress user till one night rafted with a Bruce user. Grass bottom & late night squall producing a 180 degree wind shift. Both anchors pulled. The Fortress, all clogged with grass & mud was nothing but a useless mudball. The Bruce turned, reset, & held the both of us.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks for the testimonial - I've also heard others complain that Danforth/Fortress anchors don't tolerate rapid shifts well. I've personally never used one as my main anchor, but I've had good success with Bruce (claw), Rocna (scoop) and CQR (plough) anchors with at least 5:1 scope.

[@sails3538]

I use a 110 lb bruce and live it.

[@gregoryclark3870]

Over size Bruce with all chain

[@sailorstu]

I have a 33LB authentic Bruce with 50' of chain and 200' of rope on a 5400LB 25' sailboat. Definitely overkill, and honestly a bugger to lift. I use plenty of line and have never dragged. It has however saved a few boats that dragged into it. Thankfully before she got painted. I am not looking forward to the next time it happens, and expect it will sustain noticable damage.

[@darrenjones3681]

Shouldn’t anchor over sea grass

[@stevepeace3892]

Excellent video. No fluff. Concise, complete, to the point. Well demonstrated.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks - glad you liked it!

[@Mike7O7O]

+1 What Steve said ;)

[@blankvirtue]

Hear hear I agree

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@blankvirtue Thanks I hate videos that carry on for longer than required!

[@dr.s.p.]

Couldn’t agree more. Well said. Great presentation.

[@Don-g5g5x]

An old sailor once said, there is nothing more disconcerting than anchoring in one bay and waking up in another😂

[@SailingTipsCa]

LOL yes that would be terrifying!!!

[@shademe]

I don't even own a boat and found your video entertaining and educational. Thank you for your time!

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@anarchistangler]

Yeah it was helpful and interesting.

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@anarchistangler It was a fun video to make too - I’m so used to just setting the anchor from the water and not seeing what is actually happening below the surface!

[@shademe]

@@SailingTipsCa thank you, now that I stop and think about it, I find how they work fascinating. As a person without a boat, vessel or ship lol I never gave it much thought. But if you watch how they automatically dig in its ingenious. I wonder if the same would apply for a 4x4 with a wench and a stuck situation and no point to tie to?! Hmmmmm! Now I have a new project and I hope all your endeavors are fruitful!

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@shademe Mountaineers use a variety of snow anchors so why not for stuck vehicles? It really depends on the ability of whatever you are carrying to be able to dig into the ground in the circumstances.

[@chicobicalho5621]

Very clear explanation. Many people don't realize the importance of the chain's weight to keep the anchor dug into the sand, especially on large ships that need massive and very long chains, that sometimes help anchor the ship themselves, besides helping dig the anchor in the sand.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes my understanding is that with large ships the chain plays a much more significant role than the anchor itself!

[@machinemender]

Seeing the anchor dig in was very helpful. Thanks for another helpful vodeo

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks! It was a fun video to make!

[@AtlanticFun]

Excellently illustrated. Thankyou.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@takagienterprises]

My wife and I were just talking about this yesterday and this video came up this morning. KZbin is listening! Great video!

[@SailingTipsCa]

Wow - glad it came up when it did!

[@vingreensill]

Thank you. Great explanation and demo. I finally understand the importance of scope.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Great - that was the point of this video!!!

[@pnwcruiser]

Indeed scope is key. All too often the notion is an exceptionally heavy anchor is the critical element but an overly heavy anchor won't save you with inadequate scope.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Exactly!!!

[@jamesstrom6991]

If anchor makers re to be believed, an over-heavy anchor will actually be less effective. rocna maybe said this

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@jamesstrom6991 Maybe because the boat won’t be able to drag it to set properly? You really need the proper sized flukes to hold your boat and the weight of the anchor is to initiate the setting process.

[@andrewvanada52]

Glad I finally get to subscribe to someone in their early days of KZbinry. I have enjoyed all of your videos that I've been able to watch so far. I think you'll have a big subscriber base soon!

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks for subscribing and for the encouragement - it’s been a fun project so far! The interesting part is trying to figure out what kinds of content are both 1) interesting for viewers to watch and 2) interesting and plausible for me to film!

[@robertojames7904]

I cruised onboard my 55 foot motor yacht for nearly 6 years, anchoring out 90% of the time, usually in a different spot each evening. The key to my peace of mind was to use a 200 foot length of 1/2" BBB chain and a 65 pound anchor, much larger than the recommended sizes. Although the boat was long, it was narrow and low; more like a 35 foot trawler in size and windage as opposed to a typical 55 foot sport fisherman which would be literally three or four times as much boat. Of course, this ground tackle is very heavy so not only does the boat and the anchor locker have to be designed to handle the weight, the windlass has to be very stout. I built a very powerful hydraulic windlass which could be operated from the helm. The system was wonderful. We never dragged, and unlike many other cruisers, we never hesitated to shift our position as the weather changed so that we could enjoy smooth water in the anchorage. It was particularly handy in the Bahamas when a front passed through. We were nearly always able to move to a smooth spot even though it might require moving three or even four times during the day and a half long frontal passage. Oversized ground tackle is expensive and without the proper handling gear it's difficult to operate. But if you have the right equipment, it can't be beat. Physical effort was limited to my wife flipping the chain stopper with her toe and squeezing the handle on the high pressure wash down system to clean mud off the chain and anchor.

[@SailingTipsCa]

That’s some serious chain! I used 200’ of 1/4” G7 transport chain which is very strong but much lighter which allowed me to carry more chain for the same weight.

[@largo6644]

Thanks for the advice !!! And, to made a good anchoring set: "more chain and minus rope". Rope is cheaper, lighter and flexible, but helpless to mantain the anchor against the sea floor. Greetings from Patagonia, Argentina !!! 🇦🇷

[@SailingTipsCa]

I completely agree - better to have all chain rode if you can manage the weight! In my last boat I upgraded from G4 to G7 chain which allowed me to downsize the chain and carry more of it for the same weight. Thanks for watching all the way from Patagonia!

[@ravicabral2522]

Great video. Love the way you emphasise the fundamentals on a subject where people get confused by information overload.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks - yes people anchor with 2:1 scope and are then surprised when their anchor drags and they don’t understand why!

[@BarrierSecurity]

Great video! Greetings from a sailing instructor for 20 years: I also recommend the Bruce anchor for the coast of Norway.

[@SailingTipsCa]

That’s also a great anchor for the West Coast of British Columbia! Thanks for watching from Norway!

[@r1sabotage]

Wow, this is the best video I've found clearly illustrating how anchors really work.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks - it was a fun video to make! The key point was the effect of scope!

[@boyinpyjamas]

its impressive how such small device can keep boat in place

[@SailingTipsCa]

I know - modern anchors are truly amazing!!!

[@MrBernie101]

Nice video 👍In the 25 years of anchoring my 36 ft boat I had a 35lb CQR and only once (in the Maddalena Is Sardinia) did it refuse to set due to a very weedy bottom. So I tried a trick, used in very windy conditions. I use a very long snubber, which in turn alters the angle, quite acutely, of the chain, which creates more drag and gets the anchor to dig in. I have used this method many times, especially in Greece, and have spent some days soundly secured in 40 knots plus of wind. Kind Regards, Barnacle Bern, SW Wales.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Good tip - I’ll have to try that! Where did you attach the snubber on the boat?

[@MrBernie101]

@@SailingTipsCa Hi Ho, My snubber was 20mts long of 18mm double braided nylon rope, very stretchy. I would tie the snubber rope to the anchor chain using a rope to chain hitch (very similar to a rolling hitch). The bitter end was run through the forward fairlead (Bahamian fairlead), and made off to the cleat. So easy to adjust from this point. Barnacle Bern 👍😎

[@richardritter6025]

Excelente idea of using low tide to explain this… Very well done

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you liked it!

[@gregorycooper1335]

The locals must have thought you were crazy while you were filming but the sailing types understood. Good video.

[@SailingTipsCa]

LOL you’re probably right! It was a fun video to make!

[@wallacejeffery5786]

Here in coastal Alabama, several rivers have deep mud. During hurricane conditions, few anchors will hold. One exception was a large sailboat and he had perhaps a 20 to one scope of chain deployed. I think it was a larger than normal Bruce. Hurricane Katrina.

[@SailingTipsCa]

That would be frightening to ride out a hurricane on anchor and especially a monster like Katrina! Boats which do tend to survive hurricanes tend to use multiple anchors and/or web themselves into the mangroves.

[@michaelguthrie2344]

I used to agree. As a live aboard at anchor 1st hand experience has me see it differently. 1st best way to set Bruce is start 70-90° off line with 3:1 as it bites rotate to final direction then gradually increase tension to ensure Centre fluke is set. To set spade shape eg Rocna Vulcan etc they set best using action as though you are digging. Drop 1.5- 2 scope depends on tension once bitten drop couple so by time you arrive 5:1 anchor is buried. By letting out final scope early anchor has NOT been pushed down because catenary effect take impact and anchor may set with just tip. Other anchor types are beyond my brain capacity.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks for sharing your experience!

[@BrewsterMcBrewster]

Well done, Sailing Tips! This helps so much to be able to visualize how an anchor behaves on the bottom out of sight.😃

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks - the designs vary but any good anchor should attempt to reset itself with a direction change!

[@kkots]

Hello. I recently started to follow your channel. This is an excellent short and to the point anchoring 101 class. Nicely done!

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks so much and welcome to the channel!

[@davecolman9446]

I have noticed whenever a boating publication does a test comparison of anchors, it's always the latest new thing that is judged to be the best... my Bruce, having been the latest and greatest about 2 hundred years ago always comes in last place. Horse hockey says I... it has never dragged on me even once in 15 years.

[@SailingTipsCa]

They are certainly popular in some areas and if it works for you keep using it!

[@ravicabral2522]

I've been using the same rock on a piece of seaweed that my great grandfather used. Bruce? Pah! New fangled nonsense.

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@ravicabral2522 LOL not an old engine block?!?!?

[@Gottenhimfella]

The essential problem is that anchor testing is not necessarily relevant to real anchoring situations. Modern anchors test better than the likes of the Bruce, because test procedures and test bottoms are necessarily standardised. If they weren't, the data would not be repeatable. What happens is that the anchor gets designed to the test, which makes the business world go round, (because it creates the will to "trade up") but does not necessarily mean that modern anchors are as superior as the tests suggest. What really counts is not the maximum holding power in good seafloors, but the minimum holding power in crappy circumstances, and sometimes it's hard to beat a traditional pick (fisherman / Admiralty) even though they test astonishingly badly. As another example: In some parts of the world, particularly high latitudes and rocky bottoms, Bruce anchors are still very popular with commercial fishermen.

[@davecolman9446]

@@Gottenhimfella "What really counts is not the maximum holding power in good seafloors, but the minimum holding power in crappy circumstances" GOOD POINT Mate!

[@peterpicroc6065]

Great demonstration! Allow me to chip in that the heavy chain is instrumental in keeping the pull almost horizontal. With only rope, you would probably need 30 to 1 or more. I use 7 meters of chain at the anchor, then rope and it never failed.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes I like to use all chain rode when cruising not only for the weight / catenary but because it doesn’t abrade on sharp rocks or coral.

[@Pierobon]

The visual tests are awesome!

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you liked it!

[@paddyglenny]

But you could see how easily a Bruce anchor, once tipped on it's side, has difficulty in righting itself. I've recently returned from living aboard my 45ft Gulfstar all around Greece and without shelling out big money on a Spade or similar, I found the most effective change I made was twofold: buying the heaviest Delta I could get to fit on the bow roller (50kg) and adding 50 more metres of 10mm chain, so I ended with 150m of catanery (approx 475ft). After those changes, not only did it never once fail to set first time but it never broke out either. Living aboard is a great deal less stressful once you've got anchoring figured out 😊 Oh, and imho, if you buy a boat with a CQR anchor fitted, make that the first thing you replace!

[@SailingTipsCa]

A Delta with lots of chain is also a great setup - I’d sleep soundly with that!

[@tyzardoz]

Canuck here on a circumnavigation, currently in Guatemala. 14 ton 34ft steel schooner, I have a Bruce (genuine) as my primary anchor and 300 ft of 10m chain. When it's set properly I've never dragged. Good video, keep em coming 😎

[@SailingTipsCa]

Cool - hope you’re having a great trip and thanks for watching!

[@petezaparty5965]

Any anchor set properly won’t drag…I want an anchor that doesn’t drag if it’s not set properly. Some of the NG anchors are pretty forgiving and I have more faith in them than this..

[@Simple-Explanations]

@@petezaparty5965 The biggest problem is people not using enough scope - it’s amazing how many people complain that their anchor drags with only 2:1 or 3:1 scope!

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@petezaparty5965 Yes lots of the newer anchors are excellent (e.g. Rocna, Manson) and a good upgrade to older styles!

[@freekpluimers]

There are as many anchoring theories as there are boats, but a sound advice I stick to, heard the most and which (almost) never let me down is: Mark your chain/rope every 5 mtrs with spray paint so you can keep track on how much you’re feeding it into the water. Allow for at least 3 times the chain length to water depth. Roll all your chain out at once at the required depth/length ratio. Let it settle for a couple of minutes on the bottom to let the chain drape to the floor and the anchor catch on. (your bow will be facing the wind now). Then apply a little reverse throttle so as to plow the anchor a little deeper into the seabed to get maximum traction. To make it a little more challenging, there are different types of anchor that cater to different types of seabed. Some hold better on rock than sand and vv. So identify what you need before you buy your anchor. Buy an anchor that’s substantially (at least 10kg) larger than required for your boat’s specs. Use chain only, unless you anchor at greater depths and need extra length and then only use nylon line as an extension as it will outlast most other types of rope, especially when it’s chafing away against your anchor roll cheeks or rubbing strake. This is why emergency parachute sea anchors and drogues always come with nylon rope. If you’re in a crowded anchorage, make sure to lower your anchor as close as you can to the nearest boat. This may appear counter intuitive, but the anchor line will actually move you the furthest away from it when fully deployed.

[@SailingTipsCa]

I agree with most of your points, especially chain only and where to drop the anchor. On the other hand I like to pay out the rode as I back down the boat instead of all at once, and also start with 5:1 scope.

[@freekpluimers]

@@SailingTipsCa I guess both angles will work👍.Forgot to mention to always leave your engine running while using your electric windlass, so as to not deplete your batteries. Learned that the hard way myself😉😂.

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@freekpluimers Yes there’s more than one way to do things…but definitely best to have the motor running when using an electric windlass - great tip!!!!

[@slamhead]

Living on my sailboat for the last few years. Currently anchored in La Paz. I see people always backing down on there anchors. Its really not needed unless you are looking at a small anchorage where scope swing is an issue. Drop your anchor into the wind. Only let out a 3 to 1 scope. Take your time. Don't dump all your chain on top of itself. Go mix a cocktail and celebrate you have arrived at your destination. Let the boat settle for bit and then let out the rest of the scope. It will set itself.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Ahhh…the Sea of Cortez way!!!

[@andrewthomson1113]

Spade anchors are the best in my experience from sailing on west coast of Scotland. Bought one to replace a Delta. Not cheap but very reliable, good at cutting through kelp

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes kelp is a big challenge for lots of anchors!

[@LoanwordEggcorn]

REALLY good demonstration. Thanks!

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you liked it!

[@s2oooo]

I enjoyed this thanks. My 15kg hasn't been holding our 5.5 tonne boat in profile picture. We kitesurf so need to be ok around 40 knots. Just installed a knox 18kg . What a absolute weapon 😋.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Definitely want good holding power in 40 knots!!! The anchor in this demo is a small 5kg Bruce-style claw which is pretty popular in the Pacific Northwest. On my last cruising 12m sailboat I had a Rocna 20kg anchor which held very well in all the conditions we encountered before (since sold the boat). Glad you found an anchor that works for you!

[@bobschick2943]

Nice no nonsense demo, thanks!

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you liked it!

[@chaswarren7239]

I do like the Bruce ! Another useful tip, especially in a tight anchorage is to lower a heavy weight down the anchor chain on a shackle (with a retrieve) rope. This really does help to keep the pull horizontal and limit swing. This works especially well on anchor rope & chain systems, in which case use a snap block rather than a shackle.

[@SailingTipsCa]

You mean a kellet?

[@chaswarren7239]

@SailingTipsCa not heard it called that. I use old cast iron weights. Work perfectly. Also are handy ballast and mud weights.

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@chaswarren7239 Yes I think there is a similar effect from using a heavier all chain rode, instead of a lighter line with only chain at the end. Your suggestion definitely helps with the latter!

[@stephransley4371]

​@SailingTipsCa they are also known as chums, angels and sentinels depending where you are in the World!

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@stephransley4371 Yes fascinating they have so many names!

[@Joey-nq2ec]

I used a Manson, best anchor ever. Cruised full time for 2 years, no marinas, always on the hook, never broke loose even in some big gales, on 65 mph winds. Of course, s ope is a big deal, I had 200 ft of chain and always used a lot of it even in 10 feet of water.

[@SailingTipsCa]

I’ve never used a Manson but those who have love them! It’s also nice to have all chain rode because you get a better catenary and it won’t chafe through!

[@aggonzalezdc]

With 200 ft of chain on the floor you probably don't need an anchor at the end for light winds...

[@thewatcher5271]

Yeah, That Was Interesting. Does That Work The Same Way With Large Ships & Anchors That Weigh Several Tons? Thank You.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Good question! My understanding is that with big ships the friction of the chain on the seabed does most of the holding whereby with smaller boats the anchor does more and the chain less.

[@1981lowrider]

Excellent demo. Well done Sir…

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thank you kindly!

[@xpsyclonex2002]

best explanation I've seen so far.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Wow, thanks!

[@tonyhudson8698]

I used to add a extra rope to my anchor. Attached at the back, with a float, so that if anchor is stuck you can pull it out backwards.. This was on very rough rocky sea bed.. Also carry a spare float to Attach to main Anchor line if needed..

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes it’s a great idea to attach a “trip line” as you have suggested if you’re in an area that is subject to fouling anchors!

[@rickemmet1104]

That is the best demonstration I've ever seen of the forces on an anchor after it has been set. I don't even approve of THAT anchor, I prefer the "new generation" anchors, but this clearly shows the importance of scope. Also, in a big blow, a 7 to 1 will work even better - that being said, more than 7 to 1 can actually be a problem. Can't believe this took years to pop up on my feed.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes the newer generation anchors are definitely better but I didn’t have one small enough that I could effectively drag it around on the beach like this!

[@rickemmet1104]

@@SailingTipsCa That makes sense. A number of people have done demonstrations with various anchors on the sand, as you have done - all they do is test the manner in which they set. Seeing the direction of the chain / rode change and the the way the anchor behaves as force is put on it was great.

[@waterboy8999]

Please explain why more than 7 to 1 can be problem.

[@rickemmet1104]

@@waterboy8999 In a crowded anchorage the boat may swing too far and strike another boat. Also, the chain or rode can become fouled on another boats anchor, chain or rode.

[@waterboy8999]

@@rickemmet1104 that's obvious on any scope.

[@jamespisano1164]

Awesome stuff. Thanks.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you liked it!

[@malekodesouza7255]

We religiously use the 5:1 rule as a minimum …except when in crowded anchorages in summer months. I’ve gone 3:1 but those places are usually very protected and I frequently check that we are not moving.

[@SailingTipsCa]

I think that’s a good approach. In the PNW we’re typically lucky enough to be able to find another spot to anchor if we can’t put out 5:1.

[@vincent7520]

Good summary…If you don't have engine current should do the job, or wind too. In case of wind against tide usually the tide is stronger thant wind… at any rate in this case it's not a good place to anchor, except in rivers… The best is still to have three anchors : to bow anchors plus a stern one. Thank you for posting. PS. This works with most anchors, old or new design.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Excellent points - thanks!

[@robertlee8042]

I have almost never dragged! But you only have to drag once quickly in a strong current and in close quarters to never forget it.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes, or worse yet in a building gale that is now too strong to do anything about it!!!

[@Deep_Ro]

I'm just a boat dreamer right now 😅 but this is very cool to learn.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Most sailors start out as dreamers!

[@petefletcher]

Great video! 5:1 scope is possible OTT but you can't have too much.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks! Yes more is better if you have the room to swing!

[@benraley4004]

Diving a little deeper, you could explain the catenary effect and how it acts as a shock absorber. In deep water, say 60’ or more, you can use less scope due to the catenary effect caused by greater chain length suspended in the water column. The opposite is true as well. Shallow water often requires more scope. It’s counter intuitive, but the catenary effect is a huge part of understanding how the entire system works. Well done video.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks for the feedback and great suggestion!

[@stephransley4371]

Absolutely you have it nailed, so few understand this, in 50' of 150' of chain is perfect, in shallow water you may need ten to one.

[@daredynamics]

Great demonstration! Thanks!

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@cjod33]

The Bruce! Excellent soft bed anchor.

[@SailingTipsCa]

It’s quite a popular anchor around here and was definitely a top performer amongst the “older generation” anchors, although there are some newer anchors that perform better!

[@sailorstu]

I like my authentic Bruce, and it's going on my new boat tomorrow. I've read where some people feel it's the knock offs giving them a bad reputation. My new ( to me ) boat came with a CQR, and it's dragged on me a few times.

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@sailorstu If it works for you in your cruising area then keep using it! Yes the knock-offs look similar but the angles of the flukes vary slightly making them less effective. I upgraded the CQR on my last boat to a Rocna and was very happy with the result!

[@sailorstu]

@@SailingTipsCa I am keeping the CQR as a backup until I can get something better. Possibly a Ronca, however I am keeping my options open. I don't see that many of them in my region, and there may be a good reason. I would love to see a review of your new Rocna in a year or 2. I noticed some of them over here are very rusty, and I am wondering if it was just an early or bad batch. I also kept the 50 pound Danforth as a stern anchor. There is a good chance I will never need it, but just don't know.

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@sailorstu I had a Rocna for about 10 years before selling it along with the boat it was on, and it still looked like new except for the tip which was slightly rusted due to the galvanization abrading away. Do you sail in a very rocky area? SV Panope has LOTS of anchor tests! kzbin.info/aero/PL6Gej0DuK6C_2uMqVGAkk3Qy04fqmDeSS

[@beachbum4691]

I just subscribed, what a fantastic educational packed into 3 1/2 minutes. Well done, and I didn't agonise over subscribing.............

[@SailingTipsCa]

Awesome, thank you!

[@TheSperbonzo]

Good video. Personally, if it's not a crowded anchorage, and I'm planning on sleeping overnight, I go with 7:1 rode.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Good idea if the space allows!

[@m.l8698]

Thanks! Another useful video could be how to release the anchor if it gets stuck under a rock, and it's too deep to dive and free it manually. We lost an anchor like that recently so I wonder if there is are any useful techniques we could have used (those we tried did not work)...

[@SailingTipsCa]

That’s a great suggestion! I think the idea is to lower a weighted loop beneath the rode at the boat and pull it towards and under the anchor from the dinghy. If all goes well you might be able to free the anchor like a trip line.

[@mrmyth5846]

I woke up early morning after a night out on Tellico Lake, TN., just to find the TVA raised the water level up to the point it lifted my two anchors off a shallow bottom. Boat drifted across the cove and nearly came to rest on rocks had they not caught where they did. Always leave enough rode to makeup for any could be backing up of water behind the dam.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Definitely! Tidal boaters should be accustomed to changing water levels but as you noted it can also happen behind a dam!

[@malekodesouza7255]

😳. In the PNW we can plan for tide changes, some of which are very extreme. 10, 15 feet is not uncommon. But how do you plan for the release of water via spillways etc?

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@malekodesouza7255 Good question! I think some local knowledge of the potential for water level changes would be key…maybe the dam operating authority can provide that? Anybody else have suggestions?

[@Kaiwaka27]

It's a good tutorial ,not too much talk and great visuals . Keep it up.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks a lot!

[@mjoelnir1899]

I like to go above the 5 to 1. I have about 100 m chain. I do anchor mostly in 4 to 10 m. Add one meter up to the anchor roller and one is in in 5 to 11 m. That would mean 25 to 55 m anchor chain. When I expect heavy wind and the anchorage is not to crowded, I use some 20 to 30 m extra chain. I started doing that, when I realized that in most cases I could stop the anchor from dragging by putting out more chain. The longer chain makes also for less jerking on the chain. because the boat has to lift more chain before pulling on the anchor.. I often use an anchor boje, both to check were the anchor is and on rocky bottom to retrieve the anchor if it is stuck.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Good suggestions - yes more scope is beneficial if you have room!

[@shanehowerton175]

Very informative. Thank you for the valuable education.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks - glad you liked it!

[@davedavids9619]

Good demonstration, however I would like to add a few remarks. The whole idea of 3 : 1, 5 : 1 or even 7 ; 1 scope is based on mathematics and it all depends on the strength of the wind and the current. The idea behind anchoring is that the anchor (in the sea bed) and the chain can provide more holding power than the wind and the current can put on the boat. As long that is the case your anchor will not drag. The 5 : 1 scope is not sacred, it is basically a scope for anchoring in a light wind. If you have a storm than you will need more holding power. Why ? A stronger wind will put more forces on the hull than a light wind. Those forces will push the boat backwards and as long as you can keep the shank of the anchor at 0 degrees off the sea bed you will be fine. If the shank rises to 25 degrees your anchor has lost all holding power, it will drag. The more chain you have out (chain = weight) the more force the anchor can withstand. You can calculate the forces the wind will put on the hull, so once you know that you can calculate what you will have to put into the sea. We have been in storms where a 5 : 1 scope or even 7 : 1 scope would not have been enough. One storm last year had us anchoring in nearly 40 kts of wind for 5 days straight. Luckily we had calculated how much we needed to put out (around 15 : 1) and we had put out 20 : 1. We did not drag, but with 5 : 1 we would have been on the rocks. I could give you the exact mathematical equation, but will spare you that one. So instead I will give one advice. If you expect a light breeze at night, a scope of 5 : 1 will be sufficient. If you expect a stronger wind.......throw whatever you have in the sea. If that gives you a scope of 7 : 1 or 10 : 1 or even 20 : 1..............that is fine. You will sleep well and if other boats have not thrown out that scope............you will see them passing by when the wind picks up. This week there were about 30 boats in the anchorage where we are now. It had been calm all week, but then the wind picked up to about 15 kts and within 15 min about 10 boats started dragging their anchor. They had been cheekish with the amount of chain. Luckily they dragged in the direction of open sea, but it could have also been direction shore, in which case a lot of boats would have been lost. I guess that, if the wind would have been 35 kts, the anchorage would have been cleaned out, 99 % of the boats would have dragged out into the open sea. And mind you, all of them were live aboards who should know how to anchor, they should know the mathematics behind anchoring, but they didn't. Anchoring is something to be taken serious and understanding the mathematics behind anchoring will save you a lot of head ache. Don't think that 5 : 1 is always correct, calculate the correct scope and then add some for unexpected circumstances.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes you’re absolutely right - there’s a geometry at which your anchor will work (i.e. dig in versus pull out) and that’s around 5:1 in moderate conditions and a moderately flat seabed. In heavier breeze or a sketchy seabed more scope (e.g. 7:1 or more) will greatly increase the likelihood that the geometry stays right and the anchor keeps working!

[@dap777754]

True enough. But practicality also dictates that you can't dump a lot of extra scope out in a crowded anchorage. One guy being overcautious will wreak havoc with his swing circle. Also, a better or heavier anchor (CQR better than Bruce, in sand anyway) and weight of chain also factors, in addition to scope. As we all know..

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@dap777754 On my last boat I used a Rocna with all chain rode and was never disappointed!

[@artsmith103]

The 25 degrees you mentioned is closer to 22 degrees which works out to 3:1. Also important is bow free board is part of the calculation so 20ft + 3ft free board = 23ft. 3:1 = 69ft, not 60. Chain length 1/4 of typical max depth or at least 4ft is a good minimum. In the ocean, all calcs need to be for high tide and wave height. 1lb of anchor for every 2 ft of boat works pretty well.

[@stephransley4371]

It's called coefficients of catenery!

[@rbshedd]

Good video. Well demonstrated.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thank you!

[@hornetscales8274]

Good video. I'm a landlubber so I likely won't need the info, but I like to know stuff, so thanks.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Well in the event you chose to change your landlubber ways you’re set - thanks for watching!

[@pj4433]

Great video thanks

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks - glad you liked it!

[@JohnStiletto]

It really depends on the type of bottom. Nothing holds in loose sand. Hard pack can be tough to get a hold. Cutting through grass with anything can be done with most hooks.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes absolutely - most charts should indicate the bottom composition and it’s a good idea to get an anchor that works well in the areas you frequent!

[@JohnStiletto]

@@SailingTipsCa don't know where I'm traveling so need several types to hold in any bottom. Which adds a lot of weight.

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@JohnStiletto I think modern scoops like Rocna and Manson hold very well in a variety of conditions - that’s what I’d probably pick if I didn’t know what I’d be faced with when I got there.

[@raydavies2545]

Great stuff…. I will consider..,Thanks for sharing

[@SailingTipsCa]

The biggest mistake people make, especially in tight anchorages is to use too little scope, like 3:1, which just isn't reliable! If the anchorage is too tight for 5:1 scope then find another place to anchor!

[@elwhagen]

Excellent video!

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thank you very much!

[@jdawkins111]

the "this" you are supposed to "try" is to put out proper scope. thanks for that exciting new insight!

[@SailingTipsCa]

Exactly - funny how people put out 2:1 and wonder why their anchors drag!

[@BrianSmith-gp9xr]

I learned from this. Good one.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad it was helpful!

[@robertgold2643]

Great concise vid 😎

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you liked it!

[@marcelokaidi1438]

Super helpful. Thank you.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad it was helpful!

[@lmbfr1]

Great Demo

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks - glad you liked it!

[@markthomasson5077]

I was stuck on a grassy bank with not quite enough tide to float off, so set my Bruce and gave it all on my sheet winch…it eventually just dragged. I set it by hand into a Sandy stream bed, it dragged into the mud. 8kg Bruce, 5m chain, 15m rode. 2t catamaran. I would not trust a Bruce, can’t imagine it biting into a stony bottom. A CQR would do better, with the hinge the tip does bite well, though it does need to be 50% heavier than the current spade types, as a plough is inherently less efficient. Most folk choose an anchor that sits well 8n the bow roller..not be a it works well. And look around any marina, they are all sooo small.

[@SailingTipsCa]

The Bruce I used in this video was typically used as a kedge and not a primary anchor, with my primary anchor originally being a CQR that I upgraded to a Rocna, the latter of which is by far the best of the three IMHO!

[@roadstar92220]

We love our Mantis anchor !

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes I’ve never tried one but heard great things about that anchor!

[@tomiossi8092]

Great visual.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you liked it!

[@jokeralpha4482]

Awesome Visuals!

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks - it was a fun video to make!

[@listigt]

How do you make sure you lay the chain like that? Do you back up while feeding out the chain? Or do you count on the chain stretching out when backing up after all the length you need is out?

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes it’s best practice to back up the boat while you lay out the chain to ensure it’s straight and not fouled on the anchor. If you just drop it all in a heap and then back up there is a good chance the ball of chain lying on the anchor will prevent it from setting.

[@SuperGemma2010]

fantastic demonstration thank you, demonstrate over explanate is my mantra

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks - glad you liked it! It was definitely a fun video to make!

[@MultiBmorgan]

very good!

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks!

[@jasond8734]

That was a great experiment. Thanks

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks it was fun too!!!

[@mytubehkjt]

True; but sometimes in deeper water (20m+ where I anchor) 5 to 1 is not practical with other boats and the shore close by. A heavy anchor and all chain makes the difference.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes plus with all chain you get much better abrasion resistance for the entire length of the rode - a common failure point is the soft line abrading through at the bow roller which you don’t have with chain!

[@jimeagle5483]

Thank you.

[@SailingTipsCa]

You're welcome!

[@marklanahan7289]

Whats a Bruce like on shingle or broken ground?

[@SailingTipsCa]

Good question! I’d be a bit sceptical but maybe others can chime in with their experiences?

[@EverydayProjects]

Perfect demonstration 🎉❤

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you liked it!

[@EverydayProjects]

@@SailingTipsCaThe Bruce is a good anchor. I've heard that the CQR anchor is good too. Do you have experience with them?

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@EverydayProjects People seem to either really love the Bruce or hate it. It was quite popular around here up until about 20 years ago until newer designs like the Rocna came out. Prior to that I used a CQR on my cruising boat and it worked okay, although it set much more slowly than the Rocna.

[@abtechgroup]

Well done!

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you liked it!

[@abtechgroup]

@@SailingTipsCa cant tell you the number of times i laid out at maybe 1.5x depth and couldnt figure out why no bite. your video will help many others like me

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@abtechgroup Yes need a bit more than that - glad it was helpful!

[@SAILINGDIRTYBIRD]

In Fact I've been known to use 10:1 Scope alot, but that depends on where I'm Anchoring

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes especially if a storm is coming and you have room to swing!

[@sunnypringle]

Great video

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@6r4metroman]

Very simple explanation, thank you

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you liked it

[@RogerOnTheRight]

So, the 5:1 scope rule refers to high tide depth, specifically. Know your local tide table.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes you never want to be less than 5:1!

[@Dreancaidi]

Great video.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@droid4369]

I can't imagine (or maybe I _can_ ) the horror of waking up in a totally different place than where you anchored. Like in the middle of the ocean. I'm so glad to have found this video and I don't even own a boat. Thanks.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes that would be frightening - I use a GPS tracker on my phone that I can watch from bed to double-check that I’m still in the same place in the middle of the night!

[@rocknrolljunkie1000]

thank you, very informational

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad it was helpful!

[@scdrescher1]

Great vid. Thanks for mucking around for us. I thought 7:1 was the standard. Any thoughts?

[@SailingTipsCa]

Most anchors will work okay at 5:1 in moderate conditions but 7:1 is definitely better if you have the room to swing. This video is really about how an anchor will try to reset itself with a change in direction if there is enough scope but can’t if there isn’t.

[@scdrescher1]

@@SailingTipsCa I concur. One thing we see on the East shore of Lake Tahoe all too often is boaters who drop only enough line to get the anchor to the floor, thinking the weight of their 40# anchor is what’s supposed to hold their 5000+# Cobalt in place against the 35kt winds and the subsequent 4’ swells that accompany them. If you dive down and look you can see the anchors bouncing along the sand as the waves pick up the boats (and, subsequently the anchors with too little rode) with the swells as the wind then pushes the boats ashore. An expensive lesson but one most of them can usually afford. Problem is, their lack of knowledge impacts us locals who have to deal with the mess left behind.

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@scdrescher1 Yes and their lack of knowledge also impacts others in the anchorage who have used appropriate scope as they drag and foul other anchors or even hit other boats!

[@scdrescher1]

@@SailingTipsCa bumper boats…without the inflatable ring or the fun

[@porschecarreras992cabriole8]

You can let even more chain out. But what happens if the sea bed is not sandy? If it is rocks?

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes letting out more rode is a good way to get more holding power because it improves the angle of the anchor with the sea floor. If it’s rocks hopefully they are the right size to catch the anchor but not foul it and prevent you from pulling it back up!

[@gwcrispi]

Question from a non-boat guy. Aren't there GPS systems that can be programmed to alert you if you move more than a certain distance?

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes absolutely - many modern chart plotters include anchor alarms that ring once the boat travels outside a certain radius!

[@carltonbirds]

Very lovely and believable.

[@SailingTipsCa]

Thanks it was a fun video to make!

[@topcat43truffles15]

Not that I’ll ever get the chance to use your information, but it was an entertaining watch….👍🏻😎

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you enjoyed it anyways!

[@fizzz3217]

very well explained! 👍👍

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad you think so - thanks for watching!

[@hebdomadist]

Where I boat the Bruce is useless and I couldn’t wait to get it off my boat. It skips on kelp no matter how much scope you have. And a 5:1 scope is fine if you’re all alone in your anchorage. If the guy next to you has 3:1 scope, you’ll play bumper boats on a tide change. I use a Rocna that is slightly over-sized for the boat I run. I lower it to the bottom, lay out 3:1 scope with a chain that is approx. 1.5 times the length of my boat, let the wind or tide carry the boat back against the Rocna and that’s it. The boat comes to a screeching halt without the use of reverse thrust. If the wind comes up, I’ll increase to 4:1 or 5:1, but NEVER just pull into an anchorage and automatically use the 5:1 mantra….it’s a recipe for bumper boats

[@SailingTipsCa]

@@hebdomadist The Rocna is definitely a superior anchor to the Bruce - I used a Rocna as the primary anchor on my last boat. We’re also generally lucky to be able to use 5:1 around here (Pacific Northwest)

[@georgedrager-bluewaterdreamer]

When I’m camping on an island beach and my 20 ft motor boat is out there by it’s lonesome two plough anchors at 45 degrees and the boat never goes anywhere overnight where as I’ve heard of so many not being there on radio

[@SailingTipsCa]

Do you launch both from separate rodes connected to the boat or are they somehow connected to each other?

[@georgedrager-bluewaterdreamer]

@@SailingTipsCa both through the front

[@ricardomaccarthy6903]

You should drop the anchor at least 10 meters further from where you want the anchor to sit, then reverse the boat until you feel the anchor is set

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes it’s a great idea to set the anchor with the engine and use a transit line with objects on the shore to see that you’re not moving under reverse power to confirm the set!

[@kenzulumovski892]

Very helpful. 5-1 thank you!

[@SailingTipsCa]

Glad it helped!

[@Cheers_Warren]

Some good basic advice. Back when people knew what they were doing a 3:1 scope based on the water depth worked fine with all chain rode in moderate tidal conditions. Excess anchor in a tidal situations creates boats that get too close when the tide changes , it’s important for all boat to have similar scope out. Excess scope has minimum effect if the anchor was not set first. But anchoring tips are full of incorrect advice based on bad information including some from the us coast guard that perpetrated the myth that scope should be measured from the bow roller. If you don’t believe me think about the scope on 2 identical boats in every way except one has a hawspipe that exits at the water line and the other has a bow roller 15’ from the waterline. Do you scope length calculations and the numbers are very different. Conclusion , use the one constant , water depth and add bow height ONCE . But nobody will believe me I know . Either way well done making a short video proper might watch . Thinking about what your doing and Taking care when you anchoring is most important to having a safe time. Cheers Warren

[@SailingTipsCa]

Yes it’s a common mistake to forget to add the distance from the water to the bow roller and/or the tidal rise into the calculations!