Sail Life - Building a chain locker, part 1

[@wjacobp]

It is interesting hearing you talking about future owners of the boat sine you are sailing your new boat home now. Great videos! Have watched about 70 this week. Thanks for the chronological playlist!

[@wimdreesen7923]

Hi Mads, Here is what I would recommend for making your chain locker in the bow : 1. Try to make it as less deep as possible, by laminating a horizontal part in addition to some vertical watertight bulkhead. Just for storing a chain, and even if storing some anchor with the chain, it is usually not necessary to have a deep locker that reaches the lower hull part. 2. When the above is put into practice, it also makes it possible to locate the locker drain hole as high as possible above the water surface. In my opinion, you have to consider an anchor locker or chain locker as belonging to the exterior part of the boat, although it is located into a recessed space under the deck surface. 3. You have to take into account the fact that there will be for sure rain and (sea-)water ingress in the locker. The water will be drained by the drain hole, but as such a locker belongs to the "wet" part of the boat, for which a watertight separation from the cabin is needed. 4. Take into account that your locker drainhole may be blocked at some time. It happened 2 years ago with my anchor locker : Some dirt and sludge had found it's way into the anchor locker and did block the 10 mm drainhole, resulting in an anchor locker filled up with water (+/- 25 L in my case). 5. I would relocate the 2 plastic tubes for the fresh water tank filler and the tank ventilation towards a position rearwards, somewhere between the new locker and the foreward bulkhead. I think most of the above has already been put into practice by Nico , except the depth reduction of the locker. Greetings and good luck with it !

[@SailLife]

Wim Dreesen Thank you for your very detailed suggestions :) There isn't that much space in the forepeak. I think I need as much space as I can possibly get if I want to keep 30-40 meters of chain there. The bottom of the chain locker will still be well above the waterline so I'll still be able to drain it overboard. Have you taken any action to prevent the drain hole from being blocked again? :) I might be able to relocate the hoses to the port side of the boat across from the head. I'll look into that :)

[@wimdreesen7923]

***** Hi Mads, The action I want to undertake in order to prevent the drain hole from being blocked is to give my anchor locker a thorough clean now every year. It was obvious that the dirt and sludge in the locker came after some years of not having cleaned it on a regular basis. Maybe this will not be the case for your boat, but dirt entering the locker is more likely to happen especially when the boat is stored out of the water, in my case at my house, for instance in the vicinity of trees etc... Cheers !

[@TriMcCann]

Great seeing another wonderful video. I am in agreement with Nikolay and Justin, keep it as simple as possible. You could just as easily route the fill and breather tube for the water tank on the inside of the soon to be waterproof bulkhead which could be made to look hidden but still provide much easier accessibility to both the hoses. Then you could use the original fill port hoke on deck as a starting point for what the chain will go into the locker. Just remember those chain hatches can really leak when a good squad comes through ☺. Plus you are indeed really going to want to some sort of controlled drainage system in the locker to direct where all the dirty chain/rode water goes. It can be really rough on standard bilge pumps. Keep the excellent videos coming and I can't wait to see which direction you decide to go!

[@svDansleau]

What I had in an older boat was a removable fibreglass basket with a drain tube(going to the bilge) that sat on a false floor similar to where your false floor would be. It was held down with a 2 nylon straps and covered from sight with a board from the v berth similar to what you have there now. there was about a 1" space from the top of the basket to the bottom side of the deck. Mine was removable to access the waste tank hose. It was also easy to remove and clean out as mud and dirt got in there from the rode. I hope you understand my description (its the best I can do to describe it) Derek

[@SailLife]

Dans L'eau I think I understand :) Did you have a big hatch in the deck where you could remove the 'basket'?

[@svDansleau]

no. The basket came out into the forward berth. The chain and rode went through a similar chain port to the one you want to use.

[@morgan17121712]

Hi Mads, Once again an excellent video! in my opinion, I would move the water filler the v-berth side of the bulkhead. Firstly you would have much better access and secondly you could have a bigger and completely sealed change locker/watertight bulkhead with no access to the bilge. If you stick to your plan and build a tunnel for the pipes, you may have trouble fixing a hole if you ever run into anything! If you made forward of the bulkhead just a cain locker you could also mount a deck wash pump with the inlet and outlet all inside the bulkhead, and just two words going through a watertight seal to your switch panel. This would be great for washing down a muddy anchor and chain before it gets into your clean anchor locker. Also, have you considered drainage out of the anchor locker? If it is above the waterline, you could just run a small hose to the outside of the boat. Good Luck and Happy Sailing Regards Morgan Quindalup Western Australia

[@Thomasjohnson-nc5yx]

Enjoy your videos and your crisp vocabulary. My experience with anchoring while single-handing(powerboat)leads me to suggest adding a windlass(deploy and retrieve anchor without leaving cockpit) and a self deploying anchor roller. The rode locker will need a drain and an eye bolt to secure the bitter end of the rode. IMO the water fill and vent are best moved to the side deck.

[@SailLife]

Thomas johnson Thank you so much :) I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. I would love to add a windlass, but that will have to wait until I get my next boat. I usually anchor in shallow water and a bit of exercise is properly a good thing ;) For me jus the fact that I won't have to drag the chain across the deck will be a huge improvement :) Both an eye bolt and a drain is a part of my plan I merely forgot to mention :)

[@outrageousone1]

Mads,Love your channel reminds me of all the projects I have done on different boats and how it occupies ones mind.As for my two cents on the chain locker I would leave the vent and filler in the locker area however I would move them aft to the port or starboard side.I had a cs 30(canadian sailcraft 30)and from the factory they ran the forward tank deck piping through the chainlocker on the port side, they simply ran them through a small stainless flanged fitting about 2 inches high to keep any water that might slosh around before running out the locker drain from entering the boat.By moving your fittings aft and to port or starboard you will avoid running your anchor rode directly over the deck fill and getting mud and such all over it plus it wont be in the way later should you install an anchor roller or whatever.If you can find a shot of a cs 30 anchor locker somwhere on the internet you will see how they ran the deck fill/vent.fair winds and keep up the good work! s/v outrageous Nova Scotia Canada

[@SailLife]

outrageousone1 Thank you so much :) Normally my videos are 'realtime' (delayed by 6-8 hours) but in this case I've decided to hold off on publishing the chain locker videos in order for it not to become confusing (I'm fixing out the locker I'll be storing my cloth in at the same time). That means I'm already partly done with the chain locker. Thank you for your awesome suggestions though :) From now on I won't work on two projects at the same time. Getting suggestions and feedback works much better on the real-time vides ;) Sadly it wasn't until after I uploaded the first two videos that I realized how confusing it would be.

[@SailingMonea]

As a lot of guys already mentioned, you'll want a drain for the chain locker for sure. And I think I would have gone with a hatch for chain and rode instead of that little hole. Imagine what would happen the chain and rode tangles up inside the locker. You might find yourself in a sticky situation. Thanks for all your great videos by the way!!

[@SailLife]

Sailing Monea Thank you very much. I'm glad you're enjoying the videos :) A drain is definitely a part of my plan. It's a shame I forgot to mention it in the video :) I plan to drill a small hole in the hull and simply drain the locker overboard. I would love to have a big hatch, but it's more than I'm ready to take on. For now I'll have to make due with the smaller hole :)

[@Wolf-xi4if]

Hi Mads, I see you having two basic options for the chain locker. Option 1 is simple and fast, option two is much more complex and will take more work. Others have suggested these ideas or something similar to them so this is not "original" though by any means. :) 2: (The more difficult option) 2A Relocate the two water hoses, fill and vent to someplace other then the very front of the boat, maybe by the head or in a closet. 2B Build a water tight floor and bulkhead for the chain locker and install a drain at the front of the boat for the chain locker. 2C Paint the inside of the chain locker several coats and then install the small chain hatch, possible using the old water fill hole as part of the new hole, Adding a deck wash down does not seem to be something that your planning on doing right now, but that could be added outside the chain locker at some other point in the future. I would not do the double bulkhead while leaving the water fill and vent in the same location. This seems very problematic if the fill line ever has to be replaces. Fitting a new hose through the small access hole and down to the water tank seems like a nightmare waiting to happen. 1) (The simple option) 1A Cut some PVC pipe in half, maybe a 2" or 3" pipe and glue it to the hull over the water lines. This is only to protect the lines from the chain and is not designed to be water tight. In fact you'll want gaps at the bottom to allow drainage. Glue in place with thickened epoxy, no fiberglass would be needed. 1B Build a better bulkhead at the location of the existing front bulkhead. As this is not going to drain outside anymore, it would not be required to be glassed in, but some form of seal would be a good idea. 1C Install the chain hatch and your done. A second option on this idea would be to seal the half pipe as far up as possible and install a drain hole at or very close to the bottom of the area. I am not sure it this would be above the water line or not, you could always fill in the very bottom around the half pipe with foam and then cap all that with epoxy and glass shaped to drain out a hole above the water line. With option 1 you would have easy access to both the chain locker and the water lines. And if the area did take on water and was not draining for some reason it would eventually drain into the bottom of the boat, where it would / could be pumped out. Hope this helps.

[@ScurvyDog01]

One suggestion, build a drain into the anchor locker. Wet chain and anchor rode will smell in a short time if you don't some how drain the moisture overboard.

[@SailLife]

ScurvyDog01 I'm kicking myself for not mentioning it in the video! I plan on simply draining the locker overboard by drilling a small hole in the hull :)

[@legend343]

I see by some comments the anchor drain hole has been mentioned. That is the only real issue I see otherwise it's a great idea and plan.! Keep it up. Warren

[@SailLife]

legend343 Thanks, Warren :) It was a shame I forgot to mention the drain hole in the video. To be honest, I didn't know that some boats drain their chain lockers into the bilge. Around here everyone seems to drain overboard. You live you learn I guess :)

[@nikolaychekan9861]

Hi, Thank you for another great video. Your video skills are improving fast. :-) I would consider moving the water fill in hose out of a forepeak alltogether and separate the chain locker with water tight bulkhead. Keep it simple and separate. I don't like the idea with a tunnel due to potential water ingress. However, if you are fully confident the water will be kept out and if it is not too much work, I guess a tunnel could work. Good luck!

[@dgourdine50]

I would definitely consider a wash down pump, while building the chain locker. With that, I would think moving the fill and vent is prudent along with a drain overboard if possible and not too much trouble. Depending on how much chain and rode you will have, you want as much space as possible in that locker. A lot of work in the beginning, but will be less trouble afterwards

[@SailLife]

D Gourdine I would love to have a wash down pump, but I don't know where I would put it. For now I'll have to make due with a bucket and a brush :) I plan on simply draining the chain locker overboard (drill a small hole in the hull inside the chain locker). I may be able to move the hose from the water tank into the tiny closet on the port side of the boat just aft of the vberth, but I'll have to take a closer look :) If that turns out to be impossible I'll go with the tunnel. I don't think it'll take up much space :)

[@MrTeneric]

I have to agree with some of the other guys. Move the fill and vent. Cover it with a chase. That's project one. Two, install a hatch on the foredeck. I may be wrong but you could end up wrestling with chain and rode through a 3 inch hole otherwise. Three, install a drain overboard and glass in your forward bulkhead. I'd think about eliminating sharp corners that trap ooze with heavy tabbing and a tiny "floor". Four, install the hawse pipe near the hatch. You may need a back plate to reinforce all this and whatever you use to secure the anchor. Big job. I may be thinking too big for your boat, though. Luck.

[@SailLife]

MrTeneric I might be able to relocate the fill and vent to the tiny closet on the port side. I'll take a closer look the next time I'm aboard :) If that's not possible I think I'll stick with the tunnel. I would love to put in a hatch, but there is a very limited amount of deck space available. I don't think it'll be possible, but I'll take a closer look :)

[@MrTeneric]

suggest PVC for the tunnel. No sun exposure in the locker to break it down. Either way enjoy the project. I'm off to Houston to look at boats. Never made it to Florida. Long story that I lived to tell. The Bristol 40 sold while I was out of commission. Ah Well!

[@MrLightning1200]

Hey Mads, here's a thought for contemplation.. I store my chain in a heavy-duty vinyl bag (sort-of like a rollie-top rafters duffle) that I keep in the bow locker to keep the chain from abrading and staining the gelcoat. I wonder if you could do something similar, say, have the top of bag necked and fixed/clamped to your hawse port, then bagged-out in the space with a drain tube to bilge. it would be removable for servicing and the chain would stay put and be quiet in a sea state. Best luck with whatever you decide, I'm sure it'll come out nice :-D Cheers bud!

[@SailLife]

MrLightning1200 Thanks, that is a very interesting suggestion :) I hadn't even considered anything remotely like that :) Greg pointed me to on of his videos (kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqPElI2XoKyjeNU). He uses cloth to separate two chains. I'm sure something like you describe could be done :)

[@MrLightning1200]

***** Yep, I had envisioned a similar setup as his, only your bag would be enclosed and slightly over-sized for the space with a (small dia) drain tube. I'm just thinking it would a be a quick-easy project with no glassing involved :-D..

[@normanboyes4983]

I would move the fill and vent hose. I would seriously look at putting in a deck hatch and forming a watertight box out of fibreglass (with a drain overboard) that would essentially be suspended from the deck. The hatch cover to be lockable but not watertight. Clearly you may well need to stiffen the deck structure in way of the hatch and do some volume calculations for chain+rode+anchor+gas bottle. If you go down your planned route I would consider putting in an independent bilge pump. Good luck.

[@SuperHotjane]

Hi, thank you for uploading another great video. Have you considered putting the two pipes in a larger tougher pipe to protect them to save all the work of fibre glassing? On all my boats my chain locker has never been water tight so the wet chain can drain into the bilge and dry out so it does not corrode. Would you be better with a chain outlet on the deck with a 90 degree round outlet facing the stern so the rain cannot get in and the chain can lock on the hinge flap? (The flap has a slot in it) Just a few ideas from my boats. Hope it may help you.

[@SailLife]

SuperHotjane Thank you very much :) My plan is to have the chain locker drain overboard by drilling a small hole in the hull. That way I avoid dirt in my bilge :) If that hole becomes blocked water will start to pool in the chain locker. That's why I want to make sure the chain locker has no way of leaking water into the boat. The white hatch might not be water tight. If it turns out it's not, I'll replace it :)

[@05Cat28]

Hi Mads Great ideas regarding the chain locker. I do have some thoughts and maybe some questions to ask yourself. I have a similar sized boat without a windlass. Sailing on the west coast of Canada our anchorages are mostly deep, 10

[@SailLife]

05Cat28 Hi Rob :) I usually anchor in 3-6 meters of water. My plan is to have 30-35 meters of chain and then some additional rode (3-strand twisted nylon) in case I should ever need it. I don't think I would ever need the nylon rode so I might just keep it in a cockpit locker. Pulling up the anchor can end up being hard work but at least I'll have a chain stopper to take the load when I need to get a better grip :) I would love to have a hatch in the deck and to be able to store a propane tank in the chain locker but I don't think there is enough space on the deck to fit a hatch. I'll take a closer look :) Thanks for taking the time to share your ideas :) I appreciate it very much :) Fair winds, Mads

[@05Cat28]

***** Hi again After checking out the TamTam site I see what you mean about the room on deck for a hatch, not really an option. Tamtam seems to have it figured out, but if possible I would still drain it directly out through the hull. Why put more dampness into the bilge than you have to. Fresh rain water from the mast is one thing organic rich matter from the chain is another. If punching through seas and burying the bow a fair amount of salt water will enter through the pipe. Cheers Rob

[@svguenevere]

Hi, You might want to take a look at our KZbin "Anchor Locker outfitting" on how we did our anchor locker. We carry 2 anchors forward and after years of full time cruising found our system very well suited to life aboard. The best advice is keep it simple!

[@SailLife]

Greg Delezynski Thanks for pointing me to your video Greg :) I love the simplicity of your solution. Very neat :)

[@dianes4858]

Got to have a chain locker. Great ideas here!

[@blueskyredkite]

The chain locker *will* get water in it, how are you going to drain it? My boat has the filler for the forward tank in the hanging locker between the saloon and the v-berth, the vent is there too. If I was looking to do what you are, I would move the filler and use the entire forward area for chain (have you considered the implications for all that weight of chain right up in the bow?). With regard to making it water-tight, I'd just want to protect the v-berth from wet and dirt, I'd want the locker to drain, and draining down to the bilge where the pump can deal with it doesn't seem a bad idea to me.

[@Kurlman5150]

Hi, is possible to build the main bulkhead with the large hatch and simply run the water tank hoses through a heavy PVC piping or something similar that will protect them from the anchor chain? Enjoying the videos, Thanks for sharing!

[@SailLife]

Matt Kurrle Thank you :) I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. I'm sure it would be possible to build something like that :) I'm not sure which solution would be easier to build. Thank you for the suggestion.

[@Trevscuriosites]

hi there good idea one thing comes to mind could you not have a solid s/s pipe from top to bottom with a false floor and flexible pipe under that

[@SailLife]

Trevor Lees I'm sure that could be done. You're the first one to suggest it :) I'll keep it in mind :)

[@charliereed643]

If It were me i would have a larger access point at deck level, dirty chain is alot easier to clean on deck without covering your v-berth in mud! grit, stones and mud never make for a good nights sleep ;) ! anyway in terms of the tunnel that looks great, just bare in mind the strength of the false floor, chain isnt light! with regard to a possible (hopefully never) bow collision / issue most of that sort of fibreglass / gel coat repair is done from the exterior of the boat, and if it does go sufficiently wrong i think cutting out a piece of fibreglass and refitting it is the least of your worries! happy boating

[@sailingmoraira5079]

how about a drain thru hole? would you drain to the bilge pump and at the bottom of the locker will you install a drain to the outside. I you need in to raise and clean the chain. good luck

[@SVSecondChance]

i don't know why it needs to be water tight from the bilge. you are going to need to clean out that space and the wet chain and roade will need to drain some where. i would build a tunnel to protect the fill and vet hose and a floor that will hold the chain with drain to the bilge so it will drain to your bilge pump. leave 6 inches at the to of the tunnel so you can remove the clamps on the hoses if you need too. i thank if the locker don't have a drain you will have a hard time cleaning it and getting rid of the water that WILL build up in there.

[@SailLife]

Lee mcginnis I see a lot of comments mentioning a drain :) I'm kicking myself for not mentioning it in the video ;) I plan on simply draining the locker overboard by drilling a small hole in the hull. I would prefer not to get the dirt from the chain locker into the bilge. Maybe I'm just being silly :)

[@blugrasssful]

I like Shy Gamer's suggestion. I too thought a canvas water tight bag or metal box (tray) that locks in like a desk draw. Supported on a heavy duty frame. Hidden by your added bulkhead. The draw is removable for cleaning and provides the access for your hoses. KISS. Keep it simple Stup...... Smiley. Good luck.

[@scotthutchison2522]

I think if it were me I would just move the hoses like you said your friend did, rather than trying to make a waterproof channel and false floor. Moving the hoses seems like a much more straightforward way to solve the problem. If you were worried about snagging the hoses on something in the vee-birth, you could always make some sort of non-water tight covering for them so they would not be visible or exposed for anything to hang on them. A strip of white painted and plywood and some clips or screws to hold it to the inside of the hull wouldn't be too intrusive. Of course it's your boat and you should do what you want, but I think the amount of work and hassle that it's going to take to get the system that you described built is going to be a collosal pain. Moving the hoses would be pretty easy, just drill and a new hole and get a new fitting, but removing the old fitting on the deck and filling the old hole would be a hassle... That's my arm-chair quaterbacking anyway, it will be interesting to see how you decide to do it.

[@JoelWelter]

Move the hoses and make a deck inside your new chain locker with a drain to the bilge. Add the hatch to your v-berth (a bit lower than in your video, I think) and make the bulkhead watertight. Might as well do it right the first time...

[@SailLife]

joel1239871 I forgot to mention it in the video, but I plan on simply draining the chain locker overboard (small hole in the hull). Why do you suggest I place the hatch a little lower? :)

[@JoelWelter]

It seemed a little high and I thought it would make access to the bottom of the locker a bit easier. It could just be the camera angle, though. I guess it would also depend on how tall the pile of chain and rode is, too. Cheers!

[@ttiracing]

if i mey you could make a rubber supported box that could be removed if there is a need for it so that you dont permenently inclouse the tubes for the watertank if you make a template for the hull shape and then use your rubber matt at a kinda friction fit then your chain could fall on top of the tubes and not damege them and the whole box could be taken out and cleaned if you had a need for that one day after many ankorings :) if you really wanted to go all out you could even use the buldhead mount to mount the box with bolts if i saw right and that could make it even easyer to remove if there is a problem with the hoeses for the water i hope my ideas might be usefull thanks for the nice videos :)

[@Oggiwara1]

I would rather make a false floor and wall that protects the hoses and that is easy to remove if necessary. I would then seal of the bottom of the bulkhead/chain locker in a way that still allow you to slide the hoses trough and drain out water in the bow and not over the keel.

[@ParrotSailor]

u need an anchor locker drain in your plans....and dont forget a washdown or other way to keep the mud out of the locker.

[@SailLife]

ParrotSailor I forgot to mention it in the video, but I plan on simply draining the chain locker overboard by drilling a small hole in the hull :) I'll have to make due with a bucket and a brush when removing mud from the chain :)

[@lifeislikesailing]

Oh man, you will definitely appreciate having a d chain locker at the bow!! :)

[@SailLife]

LifeisLikeSailing - Vancouver, BC I'm sure it'll be a huge improvement! My next boat will properly have a windlass too but for now I'll have to pull the anchor manually. Still not having to drag the chain across the deck will be a huge improvement :)

[@lifeislikesailing]

I would love a windlass as well! lol

[@billyo7136]

I would keep the chain locker on the deck (an open box) to hold the chain. No interior work required. My solution would not be viable with a windless.

[@HenrikScheel_]

Spændende project. Jeg skal selv have monteret ankerspil her I foråret, men jeg tror ikke jeg gør det selv, det skal jo virke! Mht. dit project med: Hvad med istedet at lave en ny vændtæt væg tæt på den nuværende og så føre de to kabler op mellem de to vægge? Det virker simplere og du kan lukke hele fronten af.

[@SailLife]

Henrik Scheel Mange tak :) Det lyder som et spændende projekt med et ankerspil! Det bliver helt sikkert lækkert at få sådan et ombord :) Min store bekymring er plads. Enten kommer jeg til at miste plads i forkøjen eller i kædebrønden. Ah, glæden ved at have en lille båd ;) Her I påsken finder jeg ud af præcis hvad jeg gør :)

[@HenrikScheel_]

***** Det slog mig lige at du omtaler dit anker som et 15 kg Rocna. Har selv lige bestilt et sådant, da vi havde problemer med vores 15 kg Delta I sommers i Sverige, båden drev. Rocna skulle være bedre. Men det er også klart, at et ankerspil er nødvendigt til et 15 kg. anker med kæde, Man kan ikke I længden løfte det manulet, jeg har prøvet få gange med vores Delta og det dur simpelthen ikke specielt ikke med rygprolemer som de fleste har. Så du nødt til at tænke ankerspillet ind iI din løsning fra starten. Der er ikke meget ved at stå med en løsning for anker og kæde, hvis du alligevel ikke kommer til at bruge det. Det lyder træls, men den er god nok, spillet skal med I løsningen, og det skal også være elektrisk hvortil kommer udfordring med plads til dedikeret 12 volts batteri.

[@ChristopherYoung5977]

Honestly, I don't think building the anchor locker is worth the trouble: 1. If you store the anchor in a cockpit lazarette, it is handy for emergency deployment, such as when the engine dies when you are near rocks. 2. It is better to keep heavy items out of the bow, which is the least buoyant part of the boat. That is why you don't see anchors mounted on the bow of race boats. 3. In your current setup you can use the jib sheet winches as a windlass for the anchor rode. 4. The forepeak space you have is handy for sail storage.

[@BenMcKee]

The ability to anchor *immediately* is critical to the safety of boat/ship. I won't leave the dock with out an anchor ready to go. I think that giant anchor lockers with huge piles of chain is silly for the exact reason that you list... Keeping the weight our if the bow.

[@SailLife]

Christopher Young Thanks for taking the time to comment :) I think it's more than worth the trouble for almost the exact opposite reasons ;) 1) I think deploying my main anchor will be a lot easier when it's located in the bow. Sure I'll need to move 8 meters but I won't have to dig around inside a cockpit locker. Besides I'll still have my secondary anchor located in the port side cockpit locker :) 2) I don't think that is true in the case of the Albin Ballad. I've hear from several old Ballad racers that putting weight forward was essential when racing. Originally the batteries were located in the v-berth. I've heard that was done for this exact reason. I moved the batteries closer to the engine in order to better utilize the space (before having heard that placing weight forward is a good thing in a Ballad). Of course, this argument is theoretical. I'm not going to be doing any racing. 3) I hadn't actually considered that. Untill now I haven't needed a winch to retrieve the anchor. In a pinch, I would still be able to use the jib sheet winches. I also have two winches located on the mast. I guess I could use one of those too. I plan on replacing my anchor rode with all chain. To make retrieving the anchor less of a pain, I plan on installing a chain stopper. That would allow me to stop for a few seconds in case I need a break. 4) I'm sure that would be possible aboard a bigger boat. The space might look bigger on camera that in is :) Aboard Obelix I would be hard pressed to fit a sail inside the tiny space in the forepeak.

[@SailLife]

Ben McKee Thanks for taking the time to comment :) See 1) and 2) in my reply to Christopher :)

[@cumnshow]

go with it its a good idee

[@KarelvanBrederode]

These deckplates www.tidesmarine.co.uk/products/armstrong-deckplates could be an easy to install alternative for the screw on hatch. You only have to saw a hole in the bulkhead. That's it. Ready. By the way: do you really need a lot of chain and a chain locker? Keeping a small boat light (especially the ends) is important. Thanks for sharing your projects.

[@SailLife]

Karel van Brederode Thanks, those look great! :) Having the chain locker will allow me to utilize space that is otherwise wasted and not having to drag chain across the deck will be very nice. Moving the chain up in the stern will also give me a better weight distribution. Last winter I removed two large batteries from the stern and placed them in the quarter berth. That in combination with all the junk in my cockpit lockers means I have too much weight aft. At least going by what I've heard from other Ballad sailors - I'm no expert :) According to them having weight shifted forward is a good thing in a Ballad.

[@KarelvanBrederode]

***** Point taken: you could use the chain to balance things out. On the other hand: you could also get rid of the junk in your cockpit lockers! But that's easier said than done :-)

[@sailingspokojny7014]

You won't have a water tight area with the type of deck plate you are looking to use.

[@SailLife]

Dennis Cline Which one are you referring to? :)

[@sailingspokojny7014]

The that you bought for the anchor rode is essentially loose isn't it? Even with the chain hung from it it looks like it could still come loose. I have what appears to be the same deck plate and there isn't a water tight seal on it. I may be wrong and I probably am, just asking. I love your videos and at least your sailing. I won't have mine in the water until next year. If I can get a find a decent camera I will upload some of my projects as well. Take Mads and say hello to your pooch. Fair Winds and Full Sails