SAITO FA325R5 CH Ignitions Full Gasoline Conversion

Engine running of gasoline 20:1 gas/oil mix ( 50ml/1L Gas)
Prop Xoar 22 x 10
Idle 780 to 5500+ RPM
Uses also an electric fuel pump.
Kits available at www.ch-ignitio...
Thanks
Adrian

[@bernardw4842]

You're right, it sounds fantastic! This is the engine I wish I could afford, and I would definitely get your spark igntion conversion and a Keleo exhaust ring for it. I am surprised Saito does not make a gas/spark version of this, their only 5-cylinder engine, as they are able to develop new gas multi-cylinder engines but sales of glow engines are dropping. It would be a shame if this engine went off the market. Thanks for the video

[@maxi7672]

Hi Adrián, I am about to continue the conversion of 325 chignition, the smoke bomb to which it connects? regards

[@juan.brunet]

Beautiful sound, incredible low idle !!!!

[@GFTP100]

Hi Adrian, I like the spark conversions of the glow engines, especially multi-cylinder because it's highly unlikely that a cylinder can drop out and stay out as it can with using only a glow plug. But, there's one thing about using miniature spark plugs that has me very concerned related to overall reliability, and that there is no possible selection of heat range. When the spark plug is subjected to combustion chamber heat it has two things it must NOT do: Carbon foul or overheat. The operating conditions of any engine will be different than any other and not having a choice of plug heat range means it's only by luck that a fixed-heat plug will work satisfactorily. I can't live by 'luck', it has never worked for me. All the miniature spark plugs I have ever seen and used (1/4-32 or 3/8-24 only) have always had black insulators, never even brown or tan. This is with a correct working F/A ratio, the first critical parameter in an engine adjustment. If the plug stays black and can't self clean, even when the engine is running perfect, it will carbon or wet foul eventually and there's nothing to stop that inevitable event. So, have you been able to see any particular heat range spread between the current manufacturers of miniature spark plugs? Say for example, an RCEXL plug being hotter or colder than an ME8 or Stitts or even an old Champion V-2 or V-3? Just look at all the varieties of heat range of 10mm plugs and larger. There's NOTHING in which to choose in the mini plugs. That's not right and again, 'luck' is needed to have a proper and long service life with the miniature spark plugs. Thanks for reading.

[@russcole5685]

Still no response to your very important and well asked question. You are correct in every word. This is a market that needs to be addressed. My only suggestion would be to trial spark gab, close for hotter, open for cooler, I guess.

[@GFTP100]

@@russcole5685 , spark “gab” has no effect on combustion temperature as long as the spark reliably ignites the combustible mixture. Too big or too small a gap will cause a misfire and eventually a fouled plug. Mixture has to be set for optimal running qualities and safe engine operating temperature. The correct heat range spark plug will then need to be selected so it self-cleans without overheating in that optimal environment. That’s it, that’s all.

[@russcole5685]

@@GFTP100 I have not tried with model engine's, as I tend to only run glow, of which there are heat ranges, all be it only in the 2t range, again nothing for the 4t range. I was only thinking that way as that is what I done to get my '64 Ducati Mountaineer 100 to run. Up two numbers in the heat range, and close gap. Obviously it doesn't cross over to this smaller micro engine's. Thanks for answering my thoughts I that. Experience is everything, as I've none in this area. Was thinking only in the little I've dealt with. Again thanks for your answers. And Hello from little New Zealand

[@GFTP100]

@@russcole5685 , greetings from the US of A! Would love to visit NZ some day. But back to plugs: Any glow plug can be used in a nitro four stroke it’s only some will run the best. Your old Duck ran (ran better?) with the closed gap because your spark was weak. The smaller gap allowed the spark to jump the electrodes in the high pressure of the combustion chamber as compression builds prior to the spark. Going two heat levels higher (than Ducati recommends) is a sign the timing may have been retarded, carb out of adjustment (too rich) or burning excessive oil causing the ceramic insulator to gather carbon then short (foul). Engines are almost living-breathing beasts and need many of the correct conditions if they’re expected to run properly for many hours.

[@russcole5685]

@@GFTP100 to right there, I had to half the recommended oil content, as modern 2t oils not burn, and have better wetting, (I guess is the wording) But yes, was an interesting project. Magneto might need rewinding, magnets replaced? It's a complete loss system, so spark is weak, points cleaned as good as I can, timed as close to factory. But the real trouble may Kay in the piston size/shape. Ad it's one I turned myself from best stock. LoL. Nothing original available on the market for what I needed after cleaning up the bore with the least removal of material. How ever it runs, so happy day's. And thank for your kind words of our country. All be it always to windy to fly out models, it is a calm and beautiful country to be in

[@valeriwottschal4626]

Hello, how much does Saito develop?