Samsung PN51D450 Plasma Sound no picture

[@ronb7481]

All the videos I've seen on plasma TV diagnosis and this is the first where it was shown how to test for shorts in the y-buffer. After wasting money on various replacement boards, I now find at least two shorts on two different circuits. Thank you for this vital information. Hopefully I can still find a usable replacement in 2022.

[@12voltvids]

Yes you can use the AA1 board to replace the BA1. There is an extra connector on the AA1 board but it isn't used. The AA1 board is half the price of the BA1 board and they are otherwise identical. 7 months later the set is working perfect.

[@morgonzola100]

Hey I am having the exact same issues as you are with my tv and these videos give me some new hope! just to be clear though, this board www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-bn96-16519a-y-buffer.htm is the one you are talking about and it works?

[@12voltvids]

Yes I used the AA1 board to replace the BA1. The boards are identical, however shopjimmy will tell you there are differences. My set is still going strong, even with the crack at the bottom of the screen. I have a lovely burn of the GLOBAL TV logo now, as I only use the TV to watch the news in the morning, and watch very little on it, but it does get a few hours a day of use. I don't have the pixel shift turned on, as I really want to see how bad I can burn the screen, since it is cracked anyway. I got it for free and put 15.00 into fixing it. Watch part 2, the initial board they sent me had a problem, but the replacement works perfectly.

[@morgonzola100]

ok thanks so much! Also would you recommend getting the y main board as well just in case or do you think that is overkill.

[@12voltvids]

My Y main was fine, but you WILL need to resolder all the big diode and IGBT's as well as the 2 address buffer ICs. They are under some yellow tape at the edge of the board. The connections on those little surface mount ICs fail, and that is what causes the buffer board to pop in the first place. In part 2 I believe I pointed these out, even though I did not show the re-flowing. Plasma sets can be fun to work on. I put silicone heat sink blocks below the big power transistor and diode connections to drain away heat. On the set I had they had what looked like white felt between the Ysus and Xmain boards and the chassis. I had another set that had a smashed screen that I did a tear down on, and I kept the heat sink compound. I put those on this one just to keep things cool. As I said still going strong today.

[@brouquetyann9872]

12voltvids

[@ver64]

Agreed....the quality of plasma is unique....and I'm also waiting for OLED's to come down in price to upgrade my tv's at home.

[@hydrolisk1792]

I love your intro to your videos. I feel like I'm getting ready to watch an old 80 repair video tape :)

[@frikadellenbakker]

I like your style! I was trying to repair my Plasma PS50V550 and ran in too your channel. Thanks. I'm gonna give it a try.

[@jayakrishnapradhan7048]

thanks for this free video for any technicians

[@henryramirez8136]

I thank you very much for your quick comment, and if you have all the reason to disconnect the Y systain and X main, the VA and VS voltages return in the power source, the truth I have never repaired a plasma tv only crt, this is mine for I'm watching how I fix it, thanks for your contribution.

[@bucketofguts]

bucketofguts is a long story. I want to thank you for the hard work to make your excellent videos. I am working to fix several horizontal black lines in a 09 Samsung 7000 3D 50 inch plasma.

[@12voltvids]

+bucketofguts I am woring on a pn50a530 right now. The VS supply is low.Film to come.

[@TGoose74]

I'm having a similar issue....same green light blink pattern, however I don't hear the startup "tone" on the TV when you turn it off and on, at all. I hear a click and then 2 quieter clicks....then the green blinking light.

[@aydinnasilsin3230]

Wonderful. You can pronounce SOLDER correctly. How some people miss the L in the word defied logic. Perhaps they never saw the word SOLD before SOLD cannot be SOD ....

[@jonka1]

Amen to that.

[@stevopeve]

I have a Samsung PN51D440 which is pretty much the same as the one you fixed in the video. I checked all the voltages from the power supply and all I got was 3 volts from one pin going to the main board. I replaced the power supply board and got the same result. The TV was completely dead before and it is still dead. Even the small board under the power supply does not have a blinking LED. What could my problem be?

[@markmarkofkane8167]

I enjoy watching these videos.

[@THOMMGB]

This was fascinating for me to watch. All good information. I'm really sorry it didn't work out for you, so far. I'd think the previous owner would've given you a heads up that the screen had some damage. Regards, Tom

[@12voltvids]

THOMMGB The person I got it from bought it and it was DOA. In frustration they gave it to me as they were choked buying something that was already broken.The set is fully operational, and the picture should be fine once I get a new buffer board. I bought this one from Shopjimmy.com and what everyone needs to know about them is that they are recyclers. They strip boards do some basic tests and sell them. So this board would have passed the visual inspection and the shorted buffer test, which I also did before installing it. Not until it was powered up did the fault rear it's ugly head.The original buffer board was fried as they set would not even power up with it.The dimples in the screen I can live with, as I will simply use this one in my bedroom to watch the news on, as currently I am using a 42, which is a bit on the small side, as it is on the other side of the room, and it is a large room. At the distance I watch it from, the crack internal won't even be noticeable.I use these sets as valuable learning tools for myself too. I left the electronics industry just as flat panel TVs were just starting to hit the stores, and even thought I did take a plasma TV course at Sony (sony had a plasma set briefly back when they cost 12,000!) I never got the opportunity to repair any, as I left the industry before they all started breaking down. The theory I learned is all coming back to me now as I work on them. I now have a pretty good understanding on how the Y Sus, Y buffer, and z sus boards interact to generate the picture, and which boards do what, and how. FYI this set has a great picture when watching wide screen movies on it, because the letterboxing makes that section of the screen black. The reason the picture looks like it does on the bottom 1/4 of the screen is because there is no Y drive signal. The Y buffer chips sequentially turn on each row of horizontal electrodes. As each row is primed, the x driver chips (these are internal to the panel, mounted on flex cables on the bottom of the screen) fire simultaneously to initiate all the pixels on the row that need to light. The time they fire during the scan determines the pixel brightness. The Y buffers are typically scanning at 600 Hz, or 10 times per 1/60 second frame refresh. So firing the X drive for a particular pixel on the first scan drive would light the pixel for longer than say on the 10'th pass, which would result in a brighter pixel. At the end of the frame duration, the Z sustain board resets the panel and turns all the pixels off. With no drive on the y buffer, and nothing to keep those rows held in the "off" state they are able to float and as such pick up stray charges from adjacent pixels, and they randomly turn on, and stay in that state until the next Z pulse to shut them down.PDP are actually quite complicated compared to LCD, as with LCD the electronics for the most part are on the glass, so any failure requires a new panel.

[@frankscarano4708]

Classic impact damage cracked the PDP, there has been many cases where you can get a crack on one layer and it does not let the gas escape due to the design of the fused layers of glass in the pdp design and the set runs however when the crack occurred it caused the initial buffer failure. because of the high pulse signals caused arcing at the panel impact point. Cracks like that get worse and eventually arc and short out other lines that the buffers feed so its a loss... Always check the surface of the PDP first!

[@12voltvids]

Well this one has been running now for well over a year, and it gets a couple of hours of use every day. From what I was told of the failure, set was working fine, then all of a sudden a extremely bright white spit appeared on the screen for about 2 seconds and then the set shut down. A crack appeared exactly where the screen went bright.I have heard of other stories the same, which leads me to believe t hat there was a loss of drive that latched the buffer chip, caused it to short, and in the time this event occurred before the set went into overcurrent shut down, a very hot spot formed, expanded the glass honeycomb, and then when the set shut down, cooled quickly, and caused the glass to fracture. First buffer board received was bad, a second was installed, and I reflowed the address chips on the y Sustain first before sending in the second replacement, and it works great today.I have seen sets where they were hit by "UFO's" when on, and the screen cracked, resulting in a blown buffer too but they generally have a physical indicator of impact, you can feel the crack when you run your hand over it. This one is internal, the front glass is not damaged.

[@ver64]

Interesting, thanks for sharing all that valuable info about troubleshooting a plasma TV.

[@12voltvids]

Ver64 They are still my favorite TV displays because of the picture quality, but they are complicated beasts that run at high currents and high voltages, at very fast switching speeds. These 3 factors mean there is more heat generated, and that along with the other 3 mean there certainly is much more that can go wrong with them for sure. I really can't wait for OLED to drop in price. The LG 65 would look fantastic in my media room, but at the price of a new car it is just too much for a TV right now.

[@thehitman5007]

This is exactly why i always check panels first for cracks before i take in for repair. To prevent waste of time, components order. Hope its a lesson to learn :)

[@12voltvids]

+Jazzy Groove The crack was not apparent upon initial inspection. It wasn't noticed until the panel was fired up after replacing the bad buffer board. It's my set, so it really doesn't matter. It was given to me broken. The crack that is still in the screen is not even visible during operation unless you get right up to it and look at it, as it is down in the bottom where the ticker tape of news headlines crawls. I use that set every day, and have been using it for the past year since I fixed it. Cost to repair 15.00 plus shipping, so 25.00 total. Go watch part 2 and you will see how good it looks.

[@thehitman5007]

+12voltvids Ah alright, if its your set then no problem but if customers set, its better to check the panel before taking in. Sometimes tricky customer sends in no power, but after checking n repairing the power to find the panel has cracked and customer puts the blame on the repairer whereby the customer already know theres a crack but lied about it.

[@12voltvids]

+Jazzy Groove Or they cracked it transporting it. Many people lay their TVs in their car on the back, and that is bad.I had a set that I repaired for a customer. I always cover my ass by documenting on video the completed job as it is when the customer comes over to pick it up, and I do show the item working when picked up. I had one that a customer threatened to sue me because he said the screen was broken. I sent him a video clip showing the set working when they picked it up. The customer lay the TV in the back of their car, and probably drove over a speed bump at 30MPH, and broke the screen on the way home. I got this phone call with them screaming that I broke the TV and they were going to sue me for a new one. I said, knock yourself out, I have a video showing the set working, starting with a shot of the serial number on the back, and time stamped at time you were sitting in my driveway to pick it up. My security cameras also have you recorded receiving the set, and loading it in your car. I have the evidence that it was NOT broken when you drove away.They asked to see the footage, and I said sure you can see it on my youtube channel along with the rest of the world if you want to peruse this. Amazing how fast this gets dropped when faced with public humiliation. Yes, they have brought me repeat business since then too, they tried to pull a fast one, and got burned. This is why I document every repair, and even the ones that I don't repair. I keep everything to cover my ass.

[@thehitman5007]

+12voltvids OMG. Thats some nasty trick they attempted there. this happens very often in many service centersall over the world. Sighs. you did a very good job documenting it hahaha, it was a slap on their face.

[@rogerd4559]

Woul;d the bad screen cause that bottom buffer on the new board to go bad? It seems rather odd that both buffer boaeds would be bad in the exact same place

[@12voltvids]

No the screen is fine. I use this tv every day. The buffer board is what cracked the screen. A driver chip of the y sustain devoloped a bad connection which caused loss of communication between the logic board and the buffer board. This locked up the buffer chip freezing a bright spot on the screen which rapidly heated and then cooled the panel at the point it cracked. That is what I think killed the first buffer board. The second one was a defective board received from shopjimmy and they replaced it. They just sell used boards untested.

[@davidpringlepatrick4262]

hello, if im using diode mode to test buffer, am i looking for close to zero to show shorts?? Using a meter without buzzer by the way

[@12voltvids]

All the edge connectors should measure open. If you measure a short that's a problem.

[@thanhtruong1134]

kakka ngay từ đầu đã thấy dây FFC màu xanh trắng từ board hinh xử lý trung tâm đã bĩ lìa ra khỏi socket rồi đại ca ơi ! hii hhehe

[@mystiqueman366]

Is it possible to access those test images on an LG panel? We have a 42" plasma that has suffered a bit of burn in due to a letterbox picture because we still have standard-def cable.

[@12voltvids]

~unified~ LG use their own code to get in, but yes there is a white screen option to remove burn.You need the original remote.On my LG the process is turn the TV on.Press and hold both the menu key on the TV and remote at the same time for about 5 seconds. A password screen should pop up. Enter 0000 and you are in to service menu 1. Repeat above and it switches to service menu 2, where you will see the option for white screen, and you can cycle through the white screen RED, GREEN BLUE and FULL WHITE which is the one for burn reduction.Different models use different buttons. Some use OK on TV and remote for 5 seconds. Also different models use different passwords. The ones I know of are 0000, 7777, 0413, 8741, 8878. Do not play with any of the other settings in the menu if you do not know exactly what you are doing as you can brick the set if you make a mistake.You have been warned.

[@errolhibbert2390]

My Samsung Plasma model#50C430A1D/ Serial# Z1x93cQZ903731K Manufacture date 2010, The set do not have nothing on the screen when it is turn on , I only hear the Samsung intro and no pitcher, Whats the problem?

[@AstroBoy2828]

Question for u, I have Panasonic TH-50PX60U Plasma TV. It has no picture but the sound is fine, the red led on power button is solid red.. Do you think my Y-sustain board or Main board went bad? Thanks ahead of time.....

[@peshmadscientist1833]

I have almost totally given up on plasma panels. what a ridiculous way to make a picture. if that was a CRT set, it would have been running by now.

[@12voltvids]

+Don Peshal I love Plasma panels... Seriously.. You know why? Because it makes me think. They are complex beasts, that have a lot going on inside them, plus you have high voltages, and high currents. Both can be a recipe for disaster, however once you understand how a plasma panel works, they are not really that scary. Like your old CRT you still have vertical and horizontal scanning. Think of the Xmain like your flyback. It is developing the hi voltage for the common electrodes. The equivelant of the 2anode of a tube. Your y buffer chips is the equivalent of the vertical circuits.The y buffers switch the horizontal rows in sequence 1 at a time, and the Y sustain, and X main regulate the current, precharge the panel, and extinguish the charge at the end of each field.On the back side of the panel there are vertical columns that are triggered with a relatively low voltage that "fires" each pixel to turn it on. The earlier in the sub field drive scan you turn on the pixel, the longer it stays on, and thus the brighter it is.These are complex units for sure, and for an engineer tech, they are a challenge to figure out, but they are totally serviceable, and now more and more are serviceable right down to the actual components that fail.The buffer board that failed on this, I could have just changed the failed IC, but with the price of the board being only 15.00 that was a no brainer.LCD TVs on the other hand are for the most part not serviceable as 90% of the time it is the panel that has failed.

[@peshmadscientist1833]

+12voltvids I composed a nice long sermon about my tales of woe regarding plasma sets and my longing for the days of CRT sets then it came back undeliverable. anyway, thanks for the moral support and I will try to have a more open-minded approach to plasma panels. the hurdles of projectors, digital processing and smps were all overcome once a realized its just more electronics rearranged in a different fashion and subject to the same failures like caps, diodes, bad solder, etc. I , unfortunately am cursed with the labours of trying to eek out a meagre existence fixing the crap that china has force fed us and doing their damnednest to make unrepairable. nice talking at ya. regards, fellow tech.

[@MissionFitnessCTC]

Great video. Nice production value and editing. Cheers

[@danielgunning4123]

Good job finding the shorts. Have you ever had to troubleshoot a Pioneer Elite with blue light blinking 8 times? I’ve got to turn both amp and tv off for 5 min. Then turn back on again to get it to work. Any help is most appreciated. 🙏

[@flexy456]

Hey! You seem to be be quite knowledgeable. Symptoms: Have Samsung PS50A476, PSU had bad caps which I replaced. Set worked for some weeks. Now, power works, but no picture, no OSD. The LED goes off when I turn it on (as it should) and then blinks in 1 sec intervals (Standby?), I can use remote and also hear beeps when I touch, eg the SRC button...but seems to be stuck in Standby and then after about 25 mins the set shuts off. Am I right that the LOGIC unit seems to be ok? Y-main or control board defective? Thanks!

[@flexy456]

tiny green diagnostic LED on logic board blinks erratically, sometimes not at all, sometimes it pauses 10 seconds..sometimes its constantly lit...

[@12voltvids]

Watch part 2 where I go over that diagnostic light. It should be flashing at 1Hz rate when all systems go.

[@henryramirez8136]

Hi, I have the same TV with the same problem, I only have audio but I do not have video, I already tested the Buffer card but there is no short circuit, I put the tip of the multimeter to ground and I measure VA and VS, but I do not have voltages , Only 15 volts in that connector that you measure, that could be, the source of power ???. Thank you.

[@12voltvids]

You need to isolate the y systain and x main from the power supply and see if your voltages return. If not you need to force the power supply on to see if the power supply is working. The power supply is commanded on by the control board, and if it senses that there is a problem it will keep the power supply shut off. Sorry I can't be more specific, but these are complex circuits, with multiple safety circuits to shut them down. The only way to repair them is to dig in and start testing them.

[@flatfootfun9524]

Ok i need some HELP badly replaced y buffer board x main board and still no picture little LED light on power board blinds for about 5 seconds then steady then blinks again for 5 seconds think it would be the Y main board i am lost

[@anthonybattillo7468]

Every time I look for a part from shop jimmy not in stock with a sad face. ?

[@alfredrichard1360]

I have a Samsung HP-T5054 . I can turn it on and watch a show for a while and then the picture will go out but the sound will stay on. sometimes the picture will come back on for a moment and then go back out again. Do you have any ideas as to what I should be looking into? I had one repair shop say that they thought the drivers were going bad.

[@jimis04]

the failure of the exact component on original board inside the tv and the board bought as repair i think is weird. Might be just bad luck but maby it indicates either a design flaw on this board from samsung, a design flaw on spare boards that are manufactured for service (maby the original board was a repair spare as well) or a short inside panel that kills the same chip every time. We will know soon.

[@12voltvids]

jimis04 The replacement board came from a recycling center, where they pull the boards out and sell them without testing. (they check for dead shorts only) so it is entirely possible that the same part blew on the set that they pulled the board from. From other I have talked to getting bad boards is quite a common complaint. They didn't even ask for the old board back, just said, OK we will ship you a new one. So I imagine that a bad board slips through from time to time.

[@deanvo3734]

i had same tv and the y board is shorted just like you show the step troubleshooting. I replaced y buffer board but tv still not turn on, please tell me what else should i check next. Thanks

[@12voltvids]

+Dean Vo Check the Y sustain and X main board for shorted diodes, transistors, and buldging capacitors.My TV is still going strong, complete with the crack in the screen. Watch it every day.

[@Corn13snake24]

i have aSony Bravia model KDL-46S2010 and it will go black with no snd or picture and will only go back on when i push menu on remote and re enter what input i was on.It also doesnt acknowledge the antenna input when i try to use digital air wave television.Any ideas as to what i can do? Thanks

[@12voltvids]

+mike martinez Do the analog inputs work? I am referring to standard video and component video.

[@scott33761]

I've been enjoying your videos. I have a Samsung plasma TV that lost the color yellow is that something you could give me some detection with?

[@ryann2k1]

I have the same problem on my Samsung plasma TV ps42b450b1d. All the voltage values are ok.but the screen remains dark(no power to the screen). Previously,the problem was no sound n picture, and replace mosfet and transistor in the y sustain board(as they are short circuits). Looking forward your reply please. Thanks

[@ryann2k1]

Previous problem was when power up TV,clicking sound from power. Three transistors were shorted, kf13n60, rjh30a3, and fga90n33, replaced them. Now it sounds but no video(picture). Va, vs, Ve, are fine.

[@12voltvids]

ryann2k1 The problem I had was cold solder on a few of the chips (documented in this and part 2 of the video) caused loss of drive to the buffer, resulted in a shorted buffer board, and a cracked screen due to severe internal heating when the buffer failed.Check your buffer chips for shorts, as the y sustain boards can blow the buffers. When buffers go bad they can cause a symptom shown on this video when I received a bad replacement buffer. If they short then the set will usually shut down. My bet though, is there is still a fault on the Y sustain board that was the root cause to the component failure, and you likely have a bad IC on that board now too. Just like on the Panasonic plasma I serviced a week or so ago. There was a shorted IGBT and diode on the SS board (that would be the X main on a Samsung, the one on the right side of the panel looking from the rear) that when they failed took out a small drive IC, and stressed a surface mount resistor. On that set it was a well documented failure traceable to incorrect screws used during manufacture which worked their way loose and arced causing a multiple component failure. I did a search for the parts that failed, and came up with a service bulletin that listed a parts kit. Ordered the parts kit, and received all the bad parts. Had I just replaced the IGBT, and diode, I would have still had a set that had no picture. Your fault will require more troubleshooting, and you will likely either have to replace the entire board.I am currently sitting on a PN51D550 that belongs to a co worker.I found a few IGBT blown, and an IC that has a chunk missing, as well as a little blue ceramic capacitor that is split in 2. That set am not even considering repairing to component level. If it is ever repaired, it will be an entire sustain board that is replaced. It is all dependent on the owner of the set if he wants to go down that road. Had the Panasonic I just repaired to component level not had a service bulletin documenting the failure it would have had the entire board swapped too.

[@icysteve46]

Is there a chance that the damaged panel shorted out the IC on the new buffer board?

[@12voltvids]

Nope because as you will see when a good board was received it fixed the problem. I am still watching that tv today. It is nicely burned with the morning News banners and logo. Yes the crack is still in it and hasn't changed. Watch part 2 to find out the part on the sustain board that blew the buffer board and probably cracked the screen.

[@icysteve46]

@@12voltvids will do. I didn't know there was a pt. 2 I stopped watching about 2 or 3 min from the finish. I just found an oily residue on my Y sus board, before we lost picture there was a loud POP. although I don't see an obvious blown cap that oily substance is a smoking gun, yes?

[@Ohmywrx]

Wondering if u can help me out my man. Have a plasma Samsung pn64e550 . It turns on with no picture but has sound. Occasionally it turns on and the picture comes on and works for hours . Sometimes it comes on and the pic goes out in minutes. I can hear a click when the picture goes out. The tv even struggles to turn off when it doesn’t display a picture . Bad power supply ? Or bad logic board ? Thanks man

[@Tomtech29]

Hi. You are doing great work! -according to your instructions I not found short circuit "chip bafe"(one of them has tiny holes) (friend insisted that it was just a lack of color sometimes black and white and dark)!! I currently have the power Vs-Tp210V and on Av tp-54v. when you turn on the TV there is a welcome voice (sound) your example is identical (except that I have not found a cold solder)"Y"control side I disconnect the lower part of the logic (white tape) does not go to restart voltages are stable VS 210V and AV 54V. -I noticed a mark on the screen as if broken !!! and here I have a question to a specialist if such damage also has an impact on the whole picture? TV include:Samsung Plasma Model:PS42C450B1W I would like to ask you how you could check the problem and assess the possibility of repair?

[@mamba82481]

i have a Samsung Plasma PN64e533d2f. Shortly after I bought it from Costco, it started to turn on and off and making clicking noises. Since it was under warranty, repair team came out and replaced one of the boards. Everything worked good until few weeks ago I noticed I would have to turn on, turn off, and turn on again before I could get a flash and the screen would turn on. Also noticed if tv has been on for a periord of time and turned off. I would have to wait 15 mins or so before TV would turn on again. Now, TV won't show any picture, there is sound, but no picture. What do you think the issue can be?

[@12voltvids]

+raypagaran I had one that took exactly 21:30 to turn on. Sound would come on, but the popwer supply was not being commanded on by the logic board for 21:30, and the logic board was at fault.Try timing it. The one I had once it was running it was fine. Turn it off then back on, and another 21:30 delay, right down to the second.

[@thegauge610]

Would you happen to know the operating voltages for a samsung P51HW_CDY?

[@amtpdb1]

curious: Is there a reason that you did not consider it as a power problem when you first started on this considering it was not powering on? Thanks for the videos.

[@12voltvids]

amtpdb1 Actually I did. Go back and watch. I checked the power supply. I had sound, so I knew the low voltage supply and standby supply was fine. I checked the VS supply, 205 volts. It came on briefly then shut down. The flashing LED "heartbeat" was flashing very slowly. This is an indication right there that there is a problem on either that Y sus or z sus boards. The light normally blinks at a constant rate .5 sec on .5 sec off.I then checked the pc on pin from the logic board and confirmed that the PSU was being forced off by the control board. It is al there on the video.Knowing this I pulled the Y sus and Z sus. I checked all the FET and diodes for shorts they were good. I looked for bad solder connections, found a few that were visible and fixed those. I then went to the y buffer and started checking for shorts, and found a short on a few of the pins were shorted between the SVC test point and the panel connectors. OK problem solved, shorted buffer, order new one. Upon replacing I got just that strip at the bottom of the panel. Another inspection of the v sus and I noticed that one of the ic's that pass control signals from the control board to the buffer board looked suspect. I re-soldered that one, also shown on the video, and my picture returned to how it is now. I scoped the input pins from y sus to y buffer and there is data on all 8 of the data lines, so the reason the buffer is not controlling the panel is 1 chip is dead.The more I think about it the more I think that a shorted buffer chip probably damaged the screen as opposed to impact damage. I think a few pixels got stuck on, and for whatever reason the set didn't go into an overdrive shutdown state, and this ultimately caused a hot spot that created heat shock, and cracked the glass, as an impact type of break would typically short out the electrodes. Or perhaps it was excess vibration, like someone putting a subwoofer behind the set and intense vibration caused a stress fracture.Of course I am just guessing, but the high number of people bitching about Samsung hanging them out to dry when their screen mysteriously self destructed is leading me down the path of a design flaw.

[@amtpdb1]

12voltvids Thanks for the reply.

[@excelvideoproductions1272]

Sir...?My wife just bought a 42" LG Plasma TV and the auio went out a few days ago. I did some research and come to realize that the sound amplifier chip was bad. So I'm wondering if you can help me find a replacement main board that hopfully will carry what i need in stock. I went to shop Jimmy because i say you used them for a TV repair here.So, Im just wondering if you might know of a company that I may be able to order a replacemnt board from? I really enjoy watching your video loads, all of your videos are very informative and I have learned alot. Thank you for the work that you share, as well as the education you have given. -Oklahoma

[@clientcalventas5154]

hello. can you please give me advice? mine's Tv is same as yours but my xboard is hissing. is that normal?

[@evan937]

Please Help! I have this exact same Television. Last night while we were watching it a guitar fell against it. It hit the bottom right corner which has caused a spider web shaped crack. It went black instantly. I can not feel the crack on the outside I the screen. The television will start normally and red light flashes 5 times. The screen is totally black on each source. I can hear a dvd's sound playing but can't see it. So did I likely damage the inner screen? I don't even know where to begin. Is it even possible to replace a plasma screen? Is it worth the Repair costs? We have owned this 2011 model since it was new :(

[@12voltvids]

Time for a new tv.

[@evan937]

:( so it is the screen that is damaged right? The force of something hitting it wouldn't of damaged something electronically inside?

[@linnace5179]

May I know what is the device that you used to "Test Pattern" and where to get it?

[@12voltvids]

Those test patters are built into Samsung televisions. Accessed from the service menu on the set. Using the original remote control, and the TV turned OFF hit the keys mute, 1, 8, 2, power. That gets you into service menu where the test pattern can be found. Now I don't recommend that you do this because there are setting in there that if set incorrectly can mess up the picture, but that is how to get into test menu.

[@linnace5179]

That's great. I thought need to buy that tester from somewhere else. Many thanks.

[@bahri01001]

I want to fix the lg42pj350 device. The fault is that there is no data until the sound. There is an exhalation of the device.

[@thanhtruong1134]

kkakka ngay từ đầu đã thấy dây FFC màu xanh trắng từ board hinh xử lý trung tâm đã bĩ lìa ra khỏi socket rồi đại ca ơi ! hii hhehe

[@carlitos070884]

Hi thanks for the video it help me a lot with a plasma with some troubles like that, but did your TV work with the second new board???

[@12voltvids]

+carlos Eduardo Padilla Yes it works fine. Don't even notice the internal Crack in the screen. Watch it every morning a I get ready for work. There is a follow up video for it I published after the new board arrived.

[@12voltvids]

+carlos Eduardo Padilla kzbin.info/www/bejne/goGtYWWalM6sbad8ere is the video for part 2 of this repair.

[@jesterraj]

hey I got a Samsung with d whole screen lookin the the bottom part....the buffer board is soldered to the screen so im assuming it bad ........I changed the t con same thing no diff

[@jel135]

I have a pn51d530 insignia looks alot like the one your working on I,ve been trying changed the logic ,main,power boards no luck I do have sound can turn on avd off ,sound,channels but no pichures so if i leave everything connected turv on clicks 3 times turns off put if i disconnect the x board turn it on stays on then I plug the x back in stays running but no pichure i have volts to the y and the x but I don,t know what the proper reading should be if you know please let me know another thing it does is if you shake the wires at the power board that goes to the main it clicks and goes off on both of my power boards which makes me think its in the loom not the board I don,t know if I can I cav email you direct if I can let me know I need help thanks John

[@12voltvids]

+john lentz Shorted parts on the Xmain. I have another video that deals with that specific failure. 3 clicks and off, Disconnect Xmain and it stays on with no picture.A couple of parts on the Xmain. Check the diodes and IGBTs I am sure you will find a few shorted. The cause is loose ground screws arc and blow parts. Have fixed a few. I got a parts kit for the on I fixed from ShopJimmy.com

[@jel135]

I found that my power brd didn,t charge up the reason the grn lht didn,t blink a fuse on the logic brd cut off power so know I,m tracing the problem looks like the y brd is having a problem when I disconnect the plug between power and y brds it sparks on the plug at the vs looking at the y brd theres some solder that melted down from the plug to a capacitor I,ll let you know and if you have any advice let me know John

[@12voltvids]

Check all the IGBTs and diodes for shorts on both the Y main, and Xmain, also known as the Y sustain and Z sustain.These are common faults. Insignia TVs were made by Samsung, with the exception of the interface boards which are different. The first plasma I ever repaired, and that was only a couple of years ago was an Insignia. It had a power supply problem, a capacitor in the soft start.This one you are looking at here was probably only the second one I fixed. I still have this set, use it every day, crack in the screen and all. It is the only one that I have had to change a board on, and the first board I got was bad, and I had to get another one (warranty) which fixed it as you saw in part 2 of this video. Since then I have had a few other plasma sets where I have done component level repair changing just the shorted parts on the Xmain, and SS boards.

[@jel135]

i can,t find a diode any where on the y board and i,m not sure what the igbt look like please a little help

[@jel135]

PLEASE I,ve been trying for a month half the problem is you buy a board on ebay and its bad they tear it out of a broken tv and use you as a tester ebay should do something but enough whining I think I.ve got yhe problem down to the y board on the bottom rt there,s 2 transistors that read 201 same as vs than a diode than 2 more transistors that read 12v on the left side where it says DFS on the heat sinc it also says 12v the tv is a insignia ns51p680a12 John

[@Erick-wq8ld]

thanks for this video.I was able to troubleshoot and fix my samsung plasma tv PN60E550DIFXZA.

[@fausto5733]

Hey my name is fausto i have this exact same tv. I have the no picture problem. I tested the y buffer the way you show and it tests good. Y replaced the y main and still get the 5 second green light blink. But when i unplug all the wires from the y main y blinks every second. Your help will be really appreciated. Thanks

[@fausto5733]

Also i tested the voltage when everything is plugged in i get no voltage but if i unplug the y main i get the voltage. Thanks again

[@allentraylor5659]

I have a crack in my screen. Would that cause a "no picture" symptom???

[@smirks1463]

My plasma has horizontal colored lines flowing though the bottom of the screen. I need help !!!!!!!!!

[@12voltvids]

+SMIRKS See part 2. That shows a buffer board failure mode. (the other one is this one which resulted in a dead set)Your problem, horizontal colored lines is most likely a buffer board failure.Colored vertical lines on the other hand is an address driver failure, and those chips are on the tabs bonded directly to the screen and therefore not serviceable.

[@edithboozy1000]

I remember when Samsung switched over to these cheap bases for their big tvs. Look at that thing wobbling around every time anyone breathes on it. Back in 2008 the had ultra sturdy swivel bases. But these ones are a total joke. Pretty sure this is why they switched to the 4 footed style

[@donald1056]

How much would that display cost?? not cheap!!

[@12voltvids]

+Donald Ellett If the display had lost it's neon gas then it would be a write off. However, the crack on the screen is internal, on the honeycomb layer where the phosphorous cells are. The top and bottom glass are not cracked, nor are the electrodes that run along the inside of these glass panes severed, so the display works just fine. That small crack is not even visible from normal viewing distance. I use this TV in my bedroom to watch the news, and it is getting a nice burn in from the TV station logo because I only watch 1 channel on it generally.

[@TheAryedemented]

Hi, Thank you! It's a very impressive work you've done on this TV! I have a Samsung plasma TV which was damaged by my son (it's his 4th now :-| ) and it has relatively big crack in the screen. It kept on working for about a year, until yesterday. Now it has only sound and no video. I suspect a gas leak that has occur slowly over time, although there was no degradation in image quality over that period. Is there something can be done if it is a gas leak?

[@12voltvids]

If the panel has lost its neon/xeon charge there will be no plasma formed, and no picture

[@TheAryedemented]

I see, so basically if this is the case, it is a total loss?

[@flatfootfun9524]

My son threw a marble and hit the screen on mine and now i have sound but no pic do you think the buffer board is bad i found there is a short

[@12voltvids]

If there is a short on one of the buffer chips then the board is toast, but how is the screen?Mine has a crack on it, but it still works, I watch it every day. It is possible that if the screen is damaged that it shorted and blew the buffer.I don't know how the screen on mine got broken, as the set was given to me, and the screen had a small crack when I got it, but I didn't see it initially until I put in the first buffer board (this one) and then I saw the crack, but the first buffer board I received was bad, and I had to get a second one shipped out (warranty) and now it is fine. Has a great picture except for a few dead pixels where the crack is, which it where the ticker tape runs on the news channels, so I don't notice it at all. Its a bedroom TV that I watch the news on every morning as I get ready for work.

[@flatfootfun9524]

Mine is a small spot on the top left cant see it unless you look for it thanks for the help

[@mitchellhadley1903]

i have a samsung 43 plasma tv, at first it was a vertical line , then when i opened it and move some of the rebon the line gone but now it has a fuzzy colored vertical lines only on the top left of the screen, i the logic control board and it still the same

[@BernardMwanganda]

Iam Bernard mwaigonda lam pleased to have more idear of electronic repair of TV led flat screen and advanced ones astoday mentioned abave

[@themaximusone]

WHAT IF THE LIGHT STAYS ON ?

[@frankreiserm.s.8039]

The y buffer board is FUBAR because Shop Jimmy is a company that takes out circuit boards from repaired TVs that are otherwise destined for the scrap yard. I have a problem with them because they are always out of stock for parts. Frank

[@12voltvids]

They sell recycled parts. But they did replace the defective one for free.

[@ninj4murray164]

can anyone help me fix the screen of 4 LCD flat screens?? in desperate need of help...I currently live in Bellefontaine ohio

[@whow1000]

From watching your video, I've suspected that my control board was failing but initially I thought it was just the Ysus. I've replaced the control board/logic (The smaller one) which does have a slight different blink code but it's an LG. When I plug it in, I hear a Buzzing sound in the Ysus board. I plugged in a replacement that actually was slightly damaged on the edge from shipping(Nothing on any connections) but I tried it anyway. It started to come up it sounded like but then produced a bit of smoke it seemed, then produced the Buzzing sound once again. I have now a new Ysus board(no shipping damage) and just installed a new control/logic board.(small board). With a new Control/logic board it now produces the same Buzzing sound from roughly the center of the Ysus. Any advice? I'm suspecting a faulty power supply but it appears to be producing power. Could it short out my Ysus boards even if everything else is working? Last question is, could a faulty buffer board cause this issue? I'm working on getting a multi meter at this time. Original issue: Power button worked previously but it last turned on and still produced static sound. Blank screen. If I remember correctly, there was backlight glow but no picture. (I believe i hit the input button after first plugging it in and now can't hear any static to test.)

[@12voltvids]

+Coltron Anderson The Y sus and X main do produce a buzzing sound when running, at 60 hz rate.The logic board light should blink at a 1hz rate is the y sus and x main are working. do check the buffer chips for shorts they are common failures.

[@antoniomancini8738]

thank you for your video you are very intelligent

[@nordzjen1988]

thank you for sharing you video Sir.

[@cicilimmanuel333]

Great video Thank u Sir God bless U

[@dedskin1]

5:57 I watched american tutorial on soldering . But even without that , you can see that it is extremely bad soldering. How they say in tutorial its excessive solder, and i guess there is a protective coating on board that needs to be removed before doing anything cuz it will prevent a proper connection forming. At least thats what they say

[@12voltvids]

+Pavle Pavlovic Circuit boards in certain applications like automotive and aerospace are dipped in a conformal coating to keep moisture away. Consumer electronics are not. There is nothing wrong with my soldering. The camera cuts away to cut the boring time where my low watt iron takes a while to heat up. Too much solder can cause a bridge but not on big lugs like this. You want a good connection as it transfers heat better. Too little and you end up with a Brittle connection.

[@dedskin1]

12voltvids yeah but if you look closely you can see black rings forming around the joint . Whats that if not burned surface coating . Im just saying im not claiming anything here im not an expert . Ive never removed the coating before doing the work. But recently ive watched that tutorial and it made me think. You can watch it also youll understand waht i mean. I think its called the Art of soldering , or something like that, very nice tutorial

[@12voltvids]

+Pavle Pavlovic Rosin Flux from the Rosin core solder I am using.

[@haidarpng]

my local repair dealer said my plasma is "garbage" .... he said it needs new led strips i have the exact same one in the video. I bought the tv when it first came out for $800 and dealer says its garbage

[@12voltvids]

Well first of all there ar eno LED strips in a plasma TV. The the panel itself is basically just one big neon light. Literally that is how they work. Neon and Xeon gas in each little cell that produces UV light when excited by a plasma discharge, and that UV light excites phosphor that glows the color you see on the screen. That TV when it first came out would have been probably closer to 4,000 or more. 10 years ago plasma were really expensive. I have a 42" from 2004 that isn't even HD and when it was new the original owner payf 7,000 for it!

[@haidarpng]

12voltvids Thank you so much :)

[@frankreiserm.s.8039]

There is no such thing as a bad chip. It is a misunderstood chip (a psychological joke). It annoys me that these TVs have their own color-bar and cross-hatch patterns built in for ordinary folk to use when I had to have such instruments when I fixed CRT TVs. Frank Frank Reiser Video/Audio Serivce

[@12voltvids]

Ha ha right especially considering that you dont need cross hatch because there is nothing to converge. Not all the TVs have this. Samsung do on some of them.

[@danmackintosh6325]

at 30:43 we see "beautiful, uptight, downtown, Goldfield"... 5* to anyone who can tell me where that quote came from...

[@cogsinister100]

Let us know if they send you a new board.

[@12voltvids]

Neil Robinson I will for sure, and I will also sound off if they don't It is in their best interest that they send a replacement, and not charge me for shipping or anything especially if they want the endorsement on the channel. There will be a follow up video once the new part arrives. I did some digging on the crack screen, and apparently this is looking to be a design flaw. Lots of people all claim the same thing, tv was running, a crack was heard and it went dead and then they noticed the crack on the screen.This one must have had that crack when I got it, but I didn't see it until I got the set going. Now I am thinking perhaps when the buffer blew it caused an electrical arc that cracked the internal glass structure, but now the front of back glass panels, as if either of those broke the Neon / Xeon gas that makes a plasma set work would have leaked out, and then there would be no picture at all. Just a theory, but with the other black burn just above the crack this is likely what I think happened. The buffer failed, and over drove that section of screen and the shutdown circuit didn't shut the set down in time, a hot spot formed quickly, and once it did shut down the hot spot cooled quickly, and the thermal shock cracked the glass. Just a theory, but I read hundreds of peoples accounts. "TV made a snapping sound and shut down, screen was cracked internal. Samsung said physical damage, no warranty for you" type of sob story.

[@12voltvids]

+Neil Robinson They did an there is a follow up video.

[@12voltvids]

+yogibear2k10 The the same thing is happening here in Canada where I am. Back in the CRT / vcr days I did well in the repair industry. I left in 2003 as I could see the writing on the wall and went to work for the phone company, which isn't so much phones there days but high speed Internet and iptv work over copper an fiber optic. That is a super busy industry, at least for us. Tons of overtime for everyone it is so busy. I'm putting in 15 hours of ot this weekend myself. The electronic work is just a hobby now, and because many in the community remember me, my phone rings regularly. I work cheap for the odd set I fix as over time I will make more money from advertising revenue from U tube. Most of the stuff I fix is my stuff that people have given me. I fix and then sell it.

[@bigdoe51dstallingssr22]

You can also see picture !

[@DizzzyKipper]

Can't you take a working chip and replace to see if you are right?Oh well shop jimmy will do you right.I recommend them to everyone.

[@12voltvids]

+DizzzyKipper Sure you can replace the chip. Just clean off all the silicone, and then use a heat gun to heat it up to melt the solder and remove it, and replace it. But then when the replacement board is only what 15.00 why bother. I have repaired other sets by doing component level repair on the boards.

[@bigdoe51dstallingssr22]

have a zenith z50pj240 and the bottom half is dark and red colored !

[@MrReeceyburger123]

Common issue on D and E series the panels cracking.

[@12voltvids]

Did a video showing the thickness of the glass on the older vs the newer plasma. The newer ones the glass was so thin that it doesn't take much to crack it. On this I suspect a loss of drive caused a buffer chip to latch, and not reset causing all the power in the power supply to dump through a couple of pixels until the over current shut it down. This would have caused a rapid rise in temperature at that frozen spot followed by rapid cooling when the power shut down, resulting in a thermal crack internal. I suspect this because the panel still works, the exterior glass didn't break, and thus it is still under it's gas charge.

[@rdelectronics2790]

Good troubleshooting!!

[@12voltvids]

Thanks. This was one of the first plasma sets I worked on. Was given to me, still use it every day. I am more of a vintage electronics servicer. That is where the money is, vintage 2 channel audio. Did that for a living for 20+ years, and I am seeing stuff on a regular basis again.

[@kyoudaiken]

5:08 Typical for Scamscum crap... Sooo typical. I had to repair lots of stuff and most stuff I repaired was from Scamscum. Cheap crap sold for 3x the price...

[@tvpartscompany8197]

tv parts company good job

[@rheacastro8471]

My plasma tv don't open we don't know what haopen

[@leonjohnsonjr3331]

ALL YOU HAD TO DO IS UNPLUG THE Y SUSTAIN BOARD FROM THE POWER SUPPLY AND SEE WHAT WOULD IT DO

[@12voltvids]

+leon johnson jr That would only prove that there was a short on the y sus board. I had no shorts, and the power supply was working. It was going into shutdown, so I had to isolate where the problem was. If the supply wouldn't start at all due to shorted IGBT or FETs on the Y sustain board then yes the power supply would be disconnected to see if it would start by itself. But in this case I knew the power supply was fine, as it started and then was shut down by the control board due to a fault detected on the buffer board.

[@leonjohnsonjr3331]

When clicking or shutting on and off I just unplug each board from the power supply until it stop I don't have to use a meter for this problem and what ever board makes it stop clicking or shutting down that board will be the problems it take me 2 minutes

[@leonjohnsonjr3331]

And if it still be clicking either it's your power supply or main board

[@12voltvids]

+leon johnson jr The purpose of the video was to demonstrate how to troubleshoot using a meter, and troubleshoot it down to the component level. Even though I didn't change the individual chip, and that was because I got a used board for 15.00, I still showed which part was causing the failure, more important, I found the root cause of the buffer board failure on the Y sustain, and I did that using a scope.

[@georgeswca]

+12voltvids Hello! Is there any danger in unplugging the y sus board? i am not competent at the component level, so am I ok as long as the unit is not energized? Could I damage the Y buff board by doing this? Regards - George

[@saarike]

Nice video!

[@ulyssesbrown4487]

Hair plasma tv model #42hp25bat no pictures

[@EastAngliaUK]

I once had a broken Plasma TV don't think it was worth fixing though as had no tuner or not even HDMI on or HD. unlike this one though I did make a video with it open.

[@12voltvids]

EastAngliaUK I have another one here with no tuner that I have been humming and hawing about fixing. I am likely going to do it just for the challenge, as I came into this one knowing very little about the operation. I did take a course about a dozen years ago, but never got a chance to put it into practical use as I left the industry shortly after completing the course. So I had an understanding on how they work, but now I have worked on a few, and have the operation figured out, so it will be a nice one to get into, even if it is just an SD display. This one if the 3rd or 4th unit I have worked on, and the parts to fix it are on their way.

[@jamelacost6845]

q5002 yg what is number it lose thang you

[@brightgodday7934]

I like this

[@2211-q7f]

plazmanın remont elemeydense elememey meslehetdi

[@somethingsomeone5440]

I’m thinking air soft guns

[@12voltvids]

TV still works. Is used every day. Has nice burn in from TV station logo.

[@bradleyhifi8155]

My uncle had last plasma model tv l.g. made

[@edmondenterprisesgrouphold3782]

good info thanks

[@qassimhumood9160]

best information.

[@voltare2amstereo]

768, - cxut the shorted outputs of the dead buffer chip, and reuse the dodgy board, resell the new one

[@bucketofguts]

Two rounds of air soft ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

[@12voltvids]

+bucketofguts ???????

[@buddyjskimnich]

u have panel problem

[@12voltvids]

+Robert Siemianowski Pardon? I don't have a panel problem. There is a tiny internal Crack in it, it is still under vacuum and it works perfect today. It is my set and I watch it every day. The problem as you will see in part 2 was a cold solder connection on the y su board that caused loss of drive to the y buffer which resulted in a shorted buffer, which caused a hot spot and internal heat stress fracture. The Crack is tiny and not visible in the picture in till you are right up at the screen. It was a great score. Free TV, cost me 30 in parts and that includes shipping.

[@ChiyouPWu]

if you got free any plasma tv please send me one?

[@StephEWaterstram]

This kinda job is going to run You $$! You might as well buy the new TV! Don't go to Craigslist or marketplace just to get another!

[@12voltvids]

I got the TV for free and I put I think it was 20 or 25 bucks I said what it cost in the video but it wasn't much for the board. One of the boards was defective but they sent me another for free. I'm still watching this TV I'm actually watching it right now as I replied to this.

[@StephEWaterstram]

@@12voltvids Mine cant turn back on after turning it off. I have to wait for an hour to do so. My low tier tech cousin said it was overheating but it may be a power issue.

[@12voltvids]

@@StephEWaterstram Sure sounds like a heat issue. Or perhaps bad caps in the power supply. Mine still working. Panel is starting to go. 2 thin vertical lines at Left side of screen now. That and the screen is burned with local TV station logo. It does have tons of hours on it now and i will run it till it blows up then put in another repaired and equally old plasma and run that one till it dies again. I have about 5 plasma sets I have repaired sitting in a closet waiting to go back in service. Needless to so I won't be buying a new set for awhile. And to answer your question as to repairing tv, it is unlikely I will do much if any more work on TV as there is no money to be made little interest as far as the video if the repair goes. that's why I concentrate more on vintage audio equipment for my videos and less on TV and video because there's less interest in that. even less interest in product reviews which is why try to avoid doing them but companies keep sending me stuff so when I get sent something I kind of feel obligated to show it off but I certainly don't make any money doing it that's for sure.

[@leonjohnsonjr3331]

o okay

[@him8172]

ok