Sandling Junction Build Ep 10 - Lift Out- and Lights, Cameras and Action!

[@andrewstevenson5449]

Have a look at DCC Concepts power point alignment dowels. They might help with aligning your liftout bridge and also with powering it.

[@Sandlingjunction]

I will do that cheers P

[@SW2Paul]

Alignment dowels plus a couple of mini magnets each end could well sort it

[@Sandlingjunction]

Yes this seems to be a popular choice, cheers P

[@Mav_at_Pwll-Y-Ddraig]

Hi Paul. Lovely to see your new layout coming along so well. Regarding securing the lift out I would echo what man others have said which is to use Brass Dowels. I have used them before quite a number of times as my initial layout was totally modular in it was essential that every board line up perfectly when reassembled. Also although I know you are not keen on Clamps but I plan on using some small adjustable toggle clamps to secure them down hidden underneath the layout. Still whatever you decide, keep on with it and happy modelling 😁

[@Sandlingjunction]

Thank you all good point that will be considered, cheers P

[@glennmorris8386]

A simple alignment set up would be to use two pairs of baseboafd alignment dowels as supplied by Station Road Baseboards (Not Julian) supplied via the eBay at a cost of £2.40 + £1.80 postage for 4 pairs, I would place two pairs, fitting into the surport section on the horizontal, being you say, you, cut the track a little too close to the board edge. The other two pairs fitted in the verticle at the opposite end, thus ensuring positive alignment each and every time. Then to stop any movement of lift untill intended, fit a couple of neodendium magnets also into the end where the dowels are inserted in the verticl. I have used the said items on my modular built layout, and fully recommend them, I dont have any affiliation with the gentleman other than, that. of a satisfied customer, Glenn,

[@Sandlingjunction]

Many thanks Glenn, much appreciated, cheers P

[@Harp-House-Halt]

Re the droppers, I would get some red & black heat shrink tubing and effectively re colour the droppers to the correct colour, i.e. red heat shrink on the offending black droppers and black heat shrink on the offending red droppers. Re your lift off section, you could use some neodymium magnets on the underside of the lift off section to hold it down and DCC Concepts do a locating dowel kit that can de used to ensure the rails align correctly. I think it also can pass track power through the dowel pins

[@Sandlingjunction]

Very nice ideas, thank you, cheers P

[@thelibrarian46]

I see those two diesels in the storage area will soon be trundling through Kent, pulling cement trains up to Rugby in the Midlands.

[@Sandlingjunction]

Lol that may well be the case, cheers P

[@alanlowe5699]

Hi Paul, I think the easiest solution for securing the bridge would be to insert a 7mm dowel on each side of the tracks at each end of the bridge. Drill 2 holes each end through the bridge into the timber ledge to a depth of about 18mm after clamping the bridge. Glue the dowels into the bridge from the top then trim and sand any protrusion on the top. this will secure the bridge so it doesn't have any side movement then fix a cupboard spring lock clasp underneath at each end which will stop any up and down movement. Once done which should be a very simple procedure you will only need to put your hand underneath the bridge to release the clasp. Hope this suggestion is useful, regards Alan

[@johncresswell9843]

Hi Paul, I did the same lift out as you but it was a pain, so I hinged one end and what a difference it made. Regards John

[@Sandlingjunction]

Another great thought to consider cheers P

[@Sandlingjunction]

@@johncresswell9843 Hi John that is not possible sadly as I intend a lot of scenic work on that bridge as time will show, cheers and thanks P

[@anitasuejones4793]

Hi Paul, you could put magnets on the under side and then magnets in the ends to make sure they line up at each end.

[@Sandlingjunction]

Hi Anita, it is possible so long as they are sunk into the timber as all dimensions are now set for the track. Unsure if Neodinium will be overall strong enough to prevent any warp. cheers P

[@anitasuejones4793]

@Sandlingjunction true about strength but should be strong enough to keep in place though

[@piccadillymodelrailways]

Bit by bit you are getting there. Love the cameras, they should make a real difference to knowing whats where. I was going suggest clamps on your lift out, but I understand what you are after. My only real suggestion is to talk to DCC Concepts they do registration gadgets. Whether theyll be invisible is another matter. 😊

[@Sandlingjunction]

Cheers John, Ill give them a call and see, cheers P

[@michaeltrotman6960]

Countersink 4 bolts through the top only small ones glue them in and put wing nuts on the bottom

[@Sandlingjunction]

Now that seems to be a simple idea thank you, cheers P

[@james2004k]

Glad I helped with the wiring :) What about some cheap door Bolts for keeping the section square?

[@Sandlingjunction]

If underneath it may work, but need to be aware of head height on traffic passing under, cheers James, Paul

[@ianjeffery4773]

Ideally you want the registration and clamp system working before laying the track so you can ensure the track aligns correctly. A system of dowels/holes and clamp/clips or bolts/wingnuts should work. Or bolts that you might use on a door. Edit: search for hook lock clip.

[@Sandlingjunction]

Thanks Ian, I will investigate that, cheers P

[@barneyrubble1964]

How about using a gate lock underneath. Small enough that they do not take too much.

[@Sandlingjunction]

it is enough underneath to pass a loco through so need to be aware of height, cheers P

[@davidcook380]

Don't get the black to the back because it changes when going round a curve unless you turn with it , In my opinion its a stupid way to explain it , Maybe I'm wrong

[@Sandlingjunction]

Well, I manage to get it wrong.lol, but a simple fix David, cheers P