Sawmill Class in Session Part 2 - Walnut - Execute the Plan -

[@johnblaney8055]

Ive learned more from watching your videos and unlike others find your instruction and tips.on creating the best lumber speaks to me in ways i understand clearly.my journey in this new year 25 will be exciting and way more enjoyable.thankyou for setting the standard.your friend john in port burwell canada.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Hello Canada! I appreciate the compliments and am glad to know that you can understand my Southern Accent! I am glad I can help!

[@austinrehl8545]

I found this very helpful and I would watch a whole series based on this type of instruction. Thank you. Well done, Sir.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@scottfrederick8299]

"Oh my, what beautiful wood" is all I can say. Straight grain wood is boring to me. Show me the character! Love it, job well done!

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thank you!

[@dapymp17]

More of this please. Thank you very much Robert. I hope to have a mill in the future and am happy to absorb what I can.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thanks!

[@okanagansawmill]

Just when you thought winter might be coming to an end!

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Yes, I think we may finally be getting over it.

[@faithblinded]

You are my favorite sawyer on youtube. I replay your videos when I drive to listen and try to catch anything I missed. I really appreciate that you dig for the best in each log. They are worth it, beyond you getting maximum value for your time. I've learned so much from your videos that it's getting hard to watch hobbyist sawyers butcher amazing logs. Even worse, it's making me question hiring out milling services. I have a pile of 25 or so tornado felled black walnut logs(14-28" diameter 9-12ft long) that need someone with your love of the wood to cut them. It's lovely wood from beside a stream, and has very little sapwood. I may slab some crotches to dry with the chainsaw mill, but it's too much to even think about doing it all that way. Meanwhile I'm sealing the log endgrain and learning all I can from people like yourself. Thank you for sharing your expertise! Now to find someone in NE Ohio that can help me with my walnut "problem"(once I have a kiln ready).

[@jaredcartlidge8099]

Really enjoyed it! I like hearing what you're thinking and thing to look for

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Sure, my pleasure!

[@Jpella88]

Great video. This answered many of my questions in regards to how to arrange the pith and stress cracks to get the most value out of a log. Thank you for this.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

nice job!

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thanks!

[@DBohl]

Glad I came across your video, just became a subscriber, have recently acquired 86 black walnut logs to saw. Thanks for the good information. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thanks for subscribing! Remember, these tips and tricks are real, we use them everyday. They work.

[@arnoldjohnson720]

Yes , this helps a lot . it makes a lot more sense when I see it with the explanation. Thanks.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@royfoster4008]

More teaching in your videos has been some of the most helpful things I've seen to help me saw better quality lumber. Keep up the helpful and good teaching. Love it.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thanks, will do!

[@FatherOfTheParty]

I learned a ton, thanks for the detail description when trying to read a log. I've often been fooled when milling a walnut log and ended up with a lot of ruined material.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Very welcome!

[@martiahevener9918]

Robert, very informative video! Would definitely like to see more like this… I always learn something from you Sir, keep up the good work!

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

I will try.

[@charlesreed1207]

The instruction on this video was great. Thanks from Cedar Bluff, AL.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Very welcome!

[@Vanbulance89]

Definitely going to be rewatching this on. Thanks Robert.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thanks!

[@bobbergman9467]

I am in southern Wisconsin and saw a lot of walnut. The lumber is much different with the species here, it has a solid chocolate brown color with no color variation as what you saw. When first sawn it has a green cast which goes away in a minute or so of exposure to the air. Same for the sawdust. Very informative and helpful. Thanks for sharing.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thanks!

[@alanblasczyk1779]

Beautiful walnut and very educational. This retired mechanical engineer and woodworker loves what you do. You sir are a master. I am in South Carolina.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thank you very much!

[@cherishedtreesawmill9118]

Thanks Robert, I really enjoy hearing what you are thinking when you are sawing. I always seam to take something I can take away that will help me when sawing. So yes please more of the Sawmill school series. My business model looks to be very similar to yours so when I found your channel on KZbin it has been a great help to see how another person goes about processing there lumber. Thanks for sharing some of your methods it is much appreciated.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

You are very welcome

[@williamprophett9148]

As a Sawyer, this format is Solid Gold.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thank you!

[@johnbaker7182]

More of these please. Very informative.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Sure, no problem.

[@derekwiffen1115]

I ‘ve watched this video a few times now and been around small mills for nearly 20 years and have seen people ruin a lot of good wood and cut way too many slabs and devalued a lot of the material they cut. I always thought there had to be a better way and now I see it.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Yes, you are correct, that is exactly the point.

[@A..n..d..y]

I enjoyed it. One suggestion I ask is for you to number the sides of log so it’s easier to follow the way you are flipping the log.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

I like that idea. Thanks!

[@thesasquatchfamilysawyers]

Wow! Love seeing the grain. Beautiful wood!

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thank you very much!

[@TedAlexander24]

Part 2 added more understanding to what you spoke about in part 1. A very good explanation about the stress. Now I hope to retain your information when milling my own lumber. The lav microphone has really helped your audio. And please keep the videos coming because I don’t want to hear five minutes of talking about the weather before the mill fires up on other channels.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

The mics work pretty good. I have trouble with the range of the Bluetooth transmitters, I have a tendency to walk out of range and then they sometimes will not automatically re pair and I will talk and nothing gets recorded. Pretty aggravating. I need a Bluetooth repeater or hub to better cover my sawing area. I generally don't do a lot of talking while sawing, I've noticed that once I get in the groove, I may not say anything for awhile, so that's something I'm having to get used to.

[@toddharris9466]

Really liked this. I'm trying to get better at milling and drying so stuff like this Really helps.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Glad it helps!

[@TheOldManAndTheSaw]

Well, Robert, I learned a LOT! Thank you. Dave

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

I'm glad it was useful. Thanks!

[@billgeorgene]

Thanks for teaching how to saw, by explaining the stress in a log and the slip plane. I watch these videos, always looking for specific how to information. We are a small mill with only a solar kiln. We’re getting by pretty well, with much credit to you. Our big challenge coming up soon is quarter saw as effectively as possible a big sycamore log. Thanks again for your advice.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Glad to help

[@Aaron-sl9lu]

U are teaching me so much, invaluable, thank you

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

You are very welcome

[@billboy7390]

Very interesting video. Bring us more of these.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

I will!

[@clemoniii]

Yep, more please, and thanks for clarifying the word "slip" with "like to slip on a floor". I thought you were saying slit "like my eyelids in the sunlight".

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Oh, yes, it’s slip not slit. Basically, it’s called a “Slip Plane” where two layers of material will translate across each other’s face, like two playing cards sliding over each other.

[@natedscate]

This is probably one of the best instructional videos for grade sawing out there. Love to see many more, especially cutting out defect and internal stress. Thanks

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thanks!

[@paularthurwebb7212]

I appreciate the pointers, I like the educational videos.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Glad you like them!

[@foresthomestead]

I for one would like to see more like this. I like to see more how to or technical videos. I saw hardwoods on my mill and I am always looking for ways to get better. Higher quality and more productive. Just sawing for myself now but hope to sell some wood in the future.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thanks!

[@slhasebroock]

Another excellent HHA video. Love these videos with the detailed explanations! Very informative and educational. I'm sure WM will send you a big check! 🙂

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thanks! WoodMizer send me a check? Ha. They just like to use me as free advertising and that's why I took the WM labels off my saw, if I'm going to advertise a business, it'll be mine, not theirs, especially since they won't even return my emails...However, I do like the Newnan, Ga office, they are good to work with. I don't think I wear enough Spandex to get Woodmizer's Corporate attention, and that's fine, I can tell people about the good and the bad about their equipment. Actually, I've been thinking of doing a full review of the LT-70 good and bad, for future buyers.

[@slhasebroock]

@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama Ya was kidding about the check!!! Would love to see your review on the LT-70. Ya and don't wear the Spandex! Sometimes wonder what the creators are selling. 🙂

[@ajridge2264]

Ya more of this. I do all kinds of fun stuff in Northern Idaho. Sometimes people miss steps in explaining.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Will do. Thanks for watching.

[@Ed_in_Md]

Beautiful walnut!

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thanks!

[@93me11]

I had no clue this place was so close to where I live, I gotta go buy some wood now!

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Come on by!

[@JeffMusgrave-e6b]

I would like to know about those spiraled stickers.

[@andysmith8544]

I don't understand why a board bowing side to side is better than a board bowing up and down. Could you explain? I've really enjoyed these two video's Robert, I hope you continue with these details.

[@FauxSentinel21]

On furniture you want boards to move "sideways" since they stay flat on the wide face. If my 6" wide face 1" board has a bow of .25" in the middle then when I flatten it I will have a .75" board thickness at best 6" wide. If I had a 6" wide 1" thick board with a .25" crook I could just edge the board sides and get 5.75" board 1" thick. I want a table to stay flat if the wood moves, not bow as humidity changes with seasons. Now for siding you want bow since you can nail it flat. It's confusing until you do a project from each camp.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Jared is correct. For furniture lumber the stress is put in a plane to keep the board flat for dead flat table tops, benches, rails, style, etc. A crooked but flat beard can be easily edged to make it square and flat in all planes, whereas a bowed board will have to be flattened to use and there generally isn't enough meat to do so.

[@jerrylittle8922]

Thank you Sir. Enjoy your video's.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Sure, no problem

[@craigmiller7591]

Great info on the stress plane. I mill trees from my own land and many of them had to fight to find light - so they act pretty crazy when milled. Nice to now have a way to try to manage that. Thanks!!

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Identifying the stress direction and sawing to reduce it is critical.

[@glennwilck5459]

​​@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama've got some ash that behaves very badly when sawed down the pith... BOth halves will bow away from each other so frustrating...you think this can be avoided or do some trees just have stress in Every direction?

[@robintaylor-mockingeemill8223]

More talk the better . . Thanks for the explanation

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Sure thing! I don't mind talking!

[@robintaylor-mockingeemill8223]

@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama Some people talk and don't say much . You get your information out in an easy way to understand . Thanks for taking the time to produce the videos. I know you are a sawyer first and youtuber second . Not the other way around . thanks again ,

[@ABOE-2024]

More of this please.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

thanks!

[@joehuinker7009]

Great information Robert

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thanks 👍

[@FauxSentinel21]

Could you do a video on how you treat your wood for boring insects? I like how you apply your sealer and was wondering if you have any other tibits to share.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Yes, I have been thinking of doing a "bug" video. It's critical to selling quality wood.

[@Miserycreeksawmill]

Awesome video ! Thanks for so much info ! Number one when it comes to teaching about sawing !!! I share your channel with everyone I know that has a passion for milling

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thank You!

[@allritecoach6357]

Very informative.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@SeansWoodBarn]

Amazing!!

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thanks!!

[@gregm312]

beautiful boards

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Glad you like them! Thanks!

[@timothychristian9140]

Really enjoy when you explain how you are going to process the log and the reason or reasons why. I have an LT40 WIDE on order so trying to learn as much as possible before it arrives. Thanks for sharing, GOD BLESS, stay safe and see ya on the next one.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Glad to help!

[@starterman2757]

Very interesting video

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thanks for visiting

[@jerrylittle8922]

Thank you Sir.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Welcome!

[@crmorse]

How did you make those stickers? Is the spiral bead to reduce sticker stain?

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

I buy stickers these days, no time to make them anymore. Yes, spiral stickers greatly reduce most sticker stain.

[@johnwoody4905]

good video and job. always learn from your video's. very few of us will ever be as good as you but you can get better with your video's take care, be safe and well.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Thanks!

[@customsawyer2526]

I would like to hear from Chip on how he would have sawed it.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Chip is smarter than I am, he wouldn't have bought it to begin with!

[@michaelnilson9876]

Very interested in what you say... Thank you for the information

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@lesterg46sawwood]

Yes I like the way you explain the way to cut the log for the best lumber. Where did the pith end up, just in one board ?

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Yes, two at most, and all were usable. Thanks for watching.

[@delprice3007]

Awesome video, thanks! Is there such a thing as quarter-sawn walnut?

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Yes, I've done to before, but never have filmed it yet.

[@jasoncottrell1976]

How do you keep track of how wide your cants are so when you roll it you can still get a 1” or 2” board of it?

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

It can done by memory or with the setworks of the sawmill.

[@ozarkscarguy540]

So the stress is always perpendicular to stress crack? So I should saw with crack vertical?

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

As a general rule, yes for hardwood lumber. The fibers in the log are under stress in one plane or the other, and they try to “pull” the log apart, a causing the center pith crack and causing the log halves to split apart like carrot peels. Sawing perpendicular to the crack will cause the board to crook or curve slightly but will not cause bow and produce a much flatter board.

[@Grneat3884]

Can you explain why you prefer boards with a bow with the slip plane vs bow plane? Will it be possible to get straight boards out of slip plane bow boards? I understand that you can edge them straight but I would think they would continue to bow in that direction after being dried?

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

The goal is to saw the log to have minimum stress in both planes, but if stress is unavoidable, its better for furniture lumber to have it in the slip plane to make a board crook vs the face plane which will make a board bow. Bow can't be taken out, as there isn't isn't enough meat on the face to straighten a board unless it's initially milled way over thickness, where a crooked board can easily be run through an edger or SLR and be cleaned up in seconds. Boards with twist are unfixable. After drying, especially kiln drying, the cell walls have been collapsed and boards will have their shapes "locked in" so a kiln dried curved board that has been edged to be straight will retain its straight edges very well, just as a kiln dried bowed bowed that can't be fixed will retain its bowed shape forever. So for furniture building, it's a dead board. Interestingly enough, for dimensional lumber, like for studs, the opposite is preferred, bow is preferred as it is hidden inside the walls and a crooked stud will show in the sheetrock.

[@Grneat3884]

@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama Thank you for the reply and detailed explanation 👍

[@trex283]

So the slip plain is parallel with the pith?

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

The slip plane is generally parallel to the pith or growth rings but perpendicular to the major heart check or crack. Some logs with twist with have stress in multiple directions, but generally it can be isolated to only one planet to produce flat lumber. Thanks for watching!

[@SeansWoodBarn]

I've looked far and wide for part 1? Can anyone point me in the right direction.

[@HobbyHardwoodAlabama]

Yes, here it is.kzbin.info/www/bejne/e5abe5ebe99nqNk