SawStop Service Tip: Align the T-Glide and Premium Fences for Your Professional Cabinet Saw

Watch this video to learn about the SawStop recommended process to align and adjust the T-Glide and Premium fences for your Professional Cabinet Saw.

[@metzessible1271]

Excellent video. I'm having significant problems with the fence, so this was beyond helpful. It's worth noting my wife overheard the fact I needed a credit card for this task, and had an audible gasp. 😅

[@chipsterb4946]

Superb explanation - thank you.

[@fakeprofiles5003]

thank you

[@michaeladamson1729]

This man is a certified 🤖

[@attilabalint344]

Great video thank you! I have the T glide fence and I am having trouble with the alignment when locking the handle down. When pressing the handle down, the end of the fence closes or opens upon handle lock down. How can I fix this?

[@philprowse8434]

You have one side adjusted way more than the other side. If you balance how much each side is adjusted, it will equal out and move much less when locking down. For example, if the fence moves to the left when you lock it down, it means you have the right side in more than the left. It’s kind of tricky but you can get it set where it moves minimally when you lock it down.

[@MrExamplename]

@@philprowse8434 I have the same issue.. but how do you balance pressure from each side when it affects the alignment with the miter slot??

[@ninjazzrhythm400]

@@MrExamplename loosen everything and start from the beginning

[@patrickwoodco]

@SawStop My T-Glide fence shifts ever so slightly when I lock it down. If I bring my fence left towards the blade and lock it, it moves slightly left. If I move the fence right away from the blade and lock it, it moves slightly to the right. Is this normal or is there a way to prevent this from happening? I has always done this since the saw was new.

[@patrickiver1352]

Mine does this also. I think it is normal, as long as everything lines up when it is locked down. Did you ever figure out how to make it more stable?

[@shaunhayward]

Same problem with mine also. I haven't found a solution. My locking tension is on the looser side so perhaps that could be the issue.

[@patrickwoodco]

@@patrickiver1352 haven’t looked into much more yet. I plan to soon though.

[@sawstop]

We are sorry to hear you have had issues. We recommend reaching out to our service team to get this issue resolved. They can be reached at [e-mail] or 503-582-9934.

[@MrExamplename]

Is it possible to swap the left and right faces on the T Glide fence? And do you have any videos on shimming a face to be flat? My left side face goes in and out like waves in the ocean.. 😔

[@manskavewoodworking8616]

I'm also having this same issue, I can't square up the left side because it's cupped and I'm not sure if it's a "fixable" thing or if I need to hit up support

[@sawstop]

It is possible to swap face plates for a fence that has that option. The face plates are universal, so it doesn’t matter which side is on which. Unfortunately, we do not have a video for “shimming” faceplates but if you need to we would recommend shimming it by placing some transparent tape on the back of the face plate to compensate for "low" spots.

[@patlaw53]

@@sawstop He was asking about the faceplates on the T-Glide fence, which the video said we’re not replaceable. Is that correct? If so, is there a mechanical reason, or do you just not sell the faceplates? I was disappointed to learn that mine has a low spot.

[@scraplifetrashtocash4551]

@@patlaw53 Saw Stops quality has dropped off. Also their customer service has too. For as much money people spend on their product. You would think they wouldn't be bad.

[@levipilones6409]

Does the tube need to be perpendicular to the miter slot?

[@sawstop]

The fence needs to be parallel with the miter slots.

[@MrTresto]

In other words, yes it will be perpendicular to the miter slots (if the cast iron table itself is actually square, which is likely true to an extent) but that's not what we are adjusting. The tube is attached to the bottom rail, which is attached to the side of the top surface. We then adjust the tube to be parallel to the rail. However, it (might) not be exactly perfectly parallel and/or square. So we are adjusting what we can, which is the fence vs the miter slots (hoping that the blade itself is parallel to them). It is very possible that the angle between the tube and the miter slots is 90.05 degrees, and then the angle between the tube and the fence is 89.95 degrees. Which ends up with a fence parallel to the miter slow, and is what we want. However, the tube being exactly perpendicular is not necessarily true. As long as it's (mostly) perpendicular, you should be fine, since the fence settings can compensate for it, and make it aligned to your tolerance. If your eyes can see 0.1mm deviation over the 2ft (604mm) depth of the table, that's tan-1 of 0.1 divided by 604, about 0.01 degrees

[@levipilones6409]

​@@MrTresto Thank you for the insight. It was a bit hard to picture in my head but it makes sense now. Parallelism of miter slot and fence does not depend on the intersecting line (tube). Initial thinking was miter slot needs to be square with tube and tube needs to be square with fence. However, angle between miter slot and tube needs to be same angle as fence and tube instead. I bought a dial indicator and calibrated fence and blade to miter slot easily. I love how easy it was to dial in.

[@lesnelling5739]

Placing the t-fence out of aliagnment and using the splitter to keep stock aligned is a bad idea. When doing a dado, rabbet, or single blade rabbet the out of alignment fence creates a problem.