SCARPA INSTINCT VS Climbing Shoes - Why I just bought a 3rd pair (Quick Review)

A quick and detailed climbing shoe review of the Scarpa Instinct VS. Comparing 3 of my personal pairs of shoes that I've been wearing for years. This is one of the best bouldering shoes on the market!
Size reviewed is 42.5 and street shoe size is 43 (US 10)
Edging - 5/5
Smearing - 2/5
Comfort - 5/5
Heel & Toe - 4/5
Durability - 3/5
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The Scarpa Instinct VSR (blue) are the same as these shoes except the rubber is Vibram XS Grip 2. I will try to get a pair of these if you all would like me to make a review.
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[@BomberBeta]

Check out the Scarpa Instinct VS on AMAZON ---> bomberbeta.com/amz-instinct-vs Disclaimer, this is an affiliate link so I will get a small portion of the sale if you end up buying them. If you end up wanting to buy them somewhere else feel free. Just psyched to share my thoughts on the shoes with y'all!

[@BomberBeta]

Would anyone like me to do a review of the Scarpa Instinct VSR next?

[@Th3Nguyen]

Bomber Beta yes please

[@BomberBeta]

Thanks for the comment! Hopefully, I will get a pair soon and start testing.

[@blakemartin9054]

@@BomberBeta you will love them. was my last shoe before I picked up the vsrw which is now my favorite for the fit.

[@BomberBeta]

@@blakemartin9054 that's awesome! What about the women's model fits you better?

[@blakemartin9054]

Bomber Beta the shoe seems to be lower volume with a more snug heel. They are a bit more difficult to get on than my old vsr, but the comfort is still there.

[@coopsexperience]

Just bought my first pair yesterday. I worked my way up to 5.12 climbs with some beginner black diamonds (first ever pair) and finally climbed through them. These shoes are brutal the first day!! But boyyyyyy do they send. Happy to hear that they break in fairly easily. Thanks for the review!

[@BomberBeta]

Do you guys resole your Scarpa Instincts? If so do you go with the Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber or with something else?

[@FelishaWild]

I have a pair of Scarpa Arpia and some Force V's that I love. I've had them both resoled by Yosemite Bum using their Evolve Trax SAS rubber and I really like that combination. I've had them both resoled a few times now. I also have a pair of Tenaya, Iati shoes and I think that the Trax SAS is as sticky at the Vibram XS Grip. I've been eyeing up a pair of the Instinct VS vs the VSR. I climb 4-5 days a week sometimes multiple days and have shoes for indoor as well as outdoor. So I'm always on the hunt for another great shoe. I may need help. LOL

[@BomberBeta]

@@FelishaWild TRAX SAS rubber is something I don't have any experience with. I will definitely give it a try when I have a chance. VSR seems like a good choice. What type of climbing do you do?

[@FelishaWild]

@@BomberBeta I live in Wisconsin so currently I do a lot of warm gym climbing. Mostly routes with some bouldering sprinkled in. When the weather starts to warm up I'll be outside sport and trad climbing. March I'm planning a trip down to Red River Gorge so keeping my fingers crossed for warmer weather down there.

[@BomberBeta]

@@FelishaWild well the Red is mostly steep jugs in my experience. I'd say the Scarpa Instinct VSR is a good choice. If you like the Vapor Vs but are looking for something with more sensitive and downturn they are perfect!

[@FelishaWild]

@@BomberBeta I think those may be my next shoe. :) Thanks!

[@CK113th121]

I only do inside bouldering, just upgraded to VS from beginner shoes. I do feel slightly weaker smearing and slightly weaker volume standing. But everything else(heel hook, toe hook, edge, power) are AMAZING. I was aiming for VSR though but the local store doesn't have it. Size: EU42, street shoes US10. For the first two sessions I had so far, it's a little uncomfortable on my toe, hope it will get better soon.

[@BomberBeta]

Awesome! Glad you're liking them as much as I do 🤙

[@CK113th121]

@@BomberBeta Thanks! I do love these bad boys a lot. Wondering if you tried VSR yet?

[@BomberBeta]

No I haven't had the chance. Still high on the list.

[@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog]

I’m noticing that these are incredible for edging but I find myself slipping off of volumy type holds. Does the rubber on these get much stickier? Awesome video by the way...✌🏽

[@BomberBeta]

You'd want a softer shoe for smearing on those volumes. Seems like the Instinct VSR (the blue ones) will be better for this. They have the Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber. If you need help picking out another shoe send me a message and I'll help you out!

[@tomriddle2257]

I own the VSR and they are the best out of 6 pairs I owned. I am now also thinking to get the VS for better edging and use them in combination with a slightly larger fit VSR.

[@chrisgraham887]

Any advice on sizing? I'm a 43.5 in Katana Lace...and that is really snug. Would you size down 1/2 size, full size from street shoe size?

[@MiguelClimbs]

I just ordered some of these. Switching over from the La Sportiva Solution Comp. I hope I like em!

[@BomberBeta]

Haven't tried the Solutions Comps. I recently got a pair of Futuras which have the same last. Coming from Sportiva you'll probably have to size up but I'm not 100% sure. The Instincts stretch a good bit after a few sessions. Let me know what you think!

[@MiguelClimbs]

@@BomberBeta Thanks dude! Yeah, I sized the VS up a bit from my Sportivas. Great content. Just watched your quick hangboard video and subscribed. Check out my climbing channel if you get a chance and let me know if you ever swing by LV.

[@BomberBeta]

Thanks man! I'll check you out. Hopefully Red Rocks next winter.

[@jeanpaulooopsn5976]

@@MiguelClimbs Hey Man, what shoe do u like more? Looking to buy a Comp or Insinct VSR. What size should i take? Skwama size 41.5. Instinct should be then 42,5? Normal size 44.5. Rather go with the Comp or instinct?

[@suki355]

i love this shoe. didnt need any break in period coming from miura vs. those hurt a lot.

[@nigelduncan7841]

do the drago! love the shoe reviews!

[@BomberBeta]

Demoed them a few times. Pretty amazing shoes. If I get my hands on some I will definitely do a review. Psyched to hear you're loving this stuff Nigel!

[@TroutMaskReplicaa]

Hey Bryan. I recently upgraded from beginner shoes to Instinct vsr.. perhaps prematurely. They're obviously downturned and fairly aggressive. I've taken them for a spin a few times but when I edge I don't feel secure in my toe.. is it normal to take a while to adjust to having all the pressure on your big toe, build muscle etc?

[@BomberBeta]

You should get used to the feeling of the downturned shoe. Going from a completely flat beginner shoe to instincts can be quite a shock to the system. You might have luck alternating between your older shoes and the instincts, preferably using the instincts on steeper climbs. Also make sure to take them off between each attempt to let your toes rest until you get more comfortable with them.

[@TroutMaskReplicaa]

Thanks for the advice bryan. So it's normal for it to take time to build up strength in the big toe? It was worrying to try V4-V5 routes and be unable to complete them in my VSRs but do them with my flat Tarantulas. Guess like everything it's just time, patience, and practice. Thanks again. Love the channel.

[@BomberBeta]

Yes I think it's a combo of building strength but also being comfortable with your joints bent in the angle. It will become second nature after a few weeks or so. The instincts have a very precise toe vs flat shoes so you have to get used to being much more technical. You might struggling for a while, but once you figure it out you should see a huge boost in your climbing.

[@hydra66]

how long did you climb in the first pair (times/week and months) before they started to wear through?

[@BomberBeta]

Great question. So I mainly limit boulder outside 2-4 times a week depending on weather. These lasted me for a little over a year, although it wasn't my only shoe I was wearing (wore them 80% of the time?). I would estimate the instincts lasting 4-6 months in the gym with 4 sessions a week.

[@guylevy3129]

What street size are you? I just got mine at 42.5 when my size is 44 and i suspect it might be too painful for me

[@benjaminvalenzuela9504]

I just bought the Vs on the internet size 41 and i am a size 42 street shoe, will they fit me or do i change them before they arrive?

[@BomberBeta]

I recommend watching this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/pIubpIWmqNF3jKM If you need further recommendations contact me and I'll help.

[@ismaelescotoful]

I bryan, i just bough a scarpa like yours, 42 1/2 wich is the same number that i have for 5,10 and sportiva, but is very difucult to me put dem on, is that normal or not, i see you said that first time was dificult for you as well

[@BomberBeta]

Usually takes 2-3 session before they stretch out. You might need to up size if it's to severe. To me right out of the box I can climb in them but it's very uncomfortable. After 3 sessions they are snug but no uncomfortable. Hope this helps. Reply if you need more help!

[@Sleepysparkz]

About to buy a pair of these, I currently climb in Scarpa Vapor V’s(2015 model) in a size 42. Think i would be safe to buy a pair of these in a 42 as well?

[@gageevans4891]

I usually were a 42 but I went down a half size my big toe is screaming. but I just got these. Hope they stretch out a bit

[@themartinlozano]

Will look into these when my vapors die. Would they size the same?

[@BomberBeta]

Should fit almost the same. More comfortable in my experience. I have a video on shoe sizing. Worth checking out.

[@enjoinger]

Bro, maybe resole instead of new shoes every time?

[@BomberBeta]

Maybe you missed it but I explained the reasoning behind not resoling my oldest pair in the video. I bought my newest pair on sale and they will most likely be in the closet for awhile before getting any wear.

[@longb1913]

why not get a resole

[@rotomath360]

For some reason there's no possibility of watching these videos at lower resolutions to help with slow streaming speeds. This would make your videos unwatchable to a large part of the world who have slow internet and at crags where cellular data is limited. Help make your videos more data friendly. The content was starting to look good but I cant possibly watch it at this data rate.

[@BomberBeta]

I'm sorry to hear you are having trouble watching the video. I can't control the resolution of the video on my end. I know that when watching other videos I can pick the resolution I see it in. Have you tried picking 360p in the video options? Please contact KZbin if you are still having trouble!

[@rotomath360]

@@BomberBeta How weird!! Reason I wrote is because I was only given hi-res options when I was watching it yesterday. Somehow today there are all the other options as well. Because this didn't happen before, my hunch was that you didn't allow for lower res viewing. This has never happened before hence I thought it was a settings anomaly on your end. My bad. But thanks for replying. I'm gonna take a watch of the rest of the video now. And please feel free to delete the comment. Its now useless clutter! Keep doing what you do for its a good thing! My best. Keep climbing. Keep posting!

[@BomberBeta]

@@rotomath360 awesome, glad everything is working. Appreciate the views!

[@justinlin7185]

idk, this guy might be a little biased 😂

[@unknownboulder1205]

I have never seen shoes so worn out! wow! regarding the coloured rubber: I had a pair of La sportiva Genius and they had a coloured heel and it literally had almost no friction and all in all just a really bad shoe that cannot be resoled everywhere.

[@BomberBeta]

Yes, I gave those things a lot of loving. Got me a few sends too lol. About the rubber, I had demoed a pair of those Genius and found the same thing. Absolutely no friction at all. Not sure if every shoe with the colored rubber is the same but I'll be looking more into it in the future. Keep an eye out for a video!