Scarpa Presents: Alphane 9A/V17 x Simon Lorenzi

The story of Simon Lorenzi on Alphane 9A/V17. Directed and filmed by Gilles Charlier, this video documents Simon's process and approach to climbing at ones limit.
Presented by: Scarpa
Supported by: Le Camp de Base
Featuring: Simon Lorenzi
Film/Directed by: Gilles Charlier

[@Kaygu_]

I'm only in the middle of the video but I love how the music reflects Simon's mood on the different days. Great editing job !

[@auntie5132]

Bro climbed another v17 but the film for Soudain Seul still haven't come out

[@tokyorevengers8463]

Soudain seul has now been downgraded to 8c+/9a after camille coudert’s and nico pelorson’s ascents I believe

[@bobbyfrai6745]

Camille confirmed 9A but nico downgraded it so grade still unknown

[@kockarthur7976]

Even raised like $12,000 for it 💀

[@rapl-06k]

​@@bobbyfrai6745regraded 9a by Camille Coudert who didn't use the book under knee caps strat

[@gillescharlier543]

We have a plan for it

[@myhio8050]

Insane work on Mellow as always

[@rawkn]

Is nobody going to talk about or focus on how unhealthy it is to make food the enemy of sending?

[@benkim996]

Gotta do what you gotta do 😂 eat like shit and perform like shit 😢

[@chops3902]

He is just pissed of and try to find reason why he can't climb as good as he wants Not a big deal, plus we don't know what he had the day before but if he had a bunch of junk food for sure your body would not like it

[@ZacSMMS]

Damn him saying, "Oh that's right, I still have all the others to do" I got chills, absolutely incredible work Simon Lorenzi that was fucking awesome to watch

[@JaredGGG]

Was a little hesitant about this one when I saw how long it was, I feel like a lot of the 20+ minute climbing videos have felt repetative lately, but this one had such a good story. It was not just a bunch of clips of highpointing, falling, and then going home. The highlights on drying the boulder, cleaning snow from it, and fighting with your skin really made this one stand out. Loved it all around.

[@homesboy13579]

🗿

[@JaredGGG]

@@homesboy13579🗿🗿🗿

[@Anthony_Marlowe]

🗿

[@beastdoesntreact2175]

🗿

[@lobi8730]

this movie is a really cool change of pace from a lot of the other ones, it is super cool to see the struggles along the way!

[@janmarecek8473]

I feel like they almost always show the struggle thats why people always liked their videos next to the quality production and music. Its just 42 minutes of struggle and usually its 15 minutes of struggle.

[@danschmidt5189]

The climbing is good but his sweater game is off the charts.

[@colosseer4184]

This send once again shows, what I think many a climber has experienced, and only half-believed. Climbing because you want to climb instead of climbing because you want to send makes a big mental difference. So many sends are the results of "Fuck it I'm tired but I don't want to stop now" or "Alright, not the best conditions but let's give it a shot". The first try and the last try of the day always have something special to them.

[@JimmyBlackhall]

Cool video- but man did he not make the process look very fun or enjoyable. Keep rock climbing light hearted and FUN

[@kevinbrubaker6076]

The soundtrack perfectly captured every mood of every session. Awesome job.

[@gillescharlier543]

Thanks 🙌

[@benjamindavenport2011]

No one asking for a downgrade has probably even climbed V10 lmaooo

[@SAm-mx1hg]

V7*

[@crescentfuze]

0:37 Dang that is steep. Don't think I've ever seen a shot of Alphane showing how steep it is before.

[@MrWill830]

I think Aidan Roberts who also climbed alphane was saying just that in some video. Something along the lines of the boulder is 55 degrees but it doesn't translate on video

[@hasancanyldrm629]

What a beast you are Simon! I have seen him train in Le Camp de Base, he might be the next Shawn or Daniel! Good luck with Burden of Dreams. Great video as always by Mellow.

[@geertdekeyser3480]

Best Mellow ever and probably one of the best boulder movies ever. Also completely in love with the soundtrack.

[@ArinaThomsen]

Dear God of Rock, please make me as strong as this man and I swear I will never have PCB (Pre-Climb Bitching ) syndrome any more.

[@lepetitgranite]

J'avais honnêtement pas trop d'attente; je trouvais que 42 minutes pour un bloc c'était un peu long. 42 minutes scotché à l'écran plus tard : c'est un des meilleurs films de bloc que j'ai jamais vu. Le son et l'image sont en parfaite adéquation. La qualité cinématographique est hallucinante. Bravo, franchement. Ça promet pour la suite.

[@gillescharlier543]

Merci beaucoup, c’est le genre de commentaire qui donne de la force !

[@jonathanbull6134]

This guy’s self talk is pretty negative. I wondered if he actually enjoyed the process or just felt compelled to complete it? Sure we’ve all had bad experiences but he was quite painful to watch.

[@Arithmophobia]

desire doesn't come without inherent suffering

[@tommeyer3871]

So insightful to see the entire process of working the boulder. Beautifully captured and climbed too

[@simonarzberger34]

Congratulations 🤙🏻 One question Does anybody know the Brand of the red Pullover he wears? 16:11 Looks super cool:) Thank you

[@manueltrogu165]

42 minuites , i learn more french here with mellow than at school for years, btw Simon is really really strong now

[@DanielSantos-p6n]

Bro went a trip with 3 shirts only

[@will_levorse]

Awesome process! Really cool to watch such a strong climber on one of the coolest problems out there. Just happened to notice that there was the idea thrown out in this video that the solution to feeling weak during a session is to starve the body. Maybe it was just poor translation, but regardless it stuck out to me and I just wanted to add my voice saying that we should be nourishing our bodies with plentiful calories and nutrition to crush it during our sessions! The opposite can lead to quite harmful and sometimes deadly outcomes.

[@Kaygu_]

I think it was more about the quantity of the food than the quantity of calories. He says a bit earlier he doesn't want to drink a shaker tonight iirc. I think he just ate something fat or heavy and felt bad about it. Not saying you aren't right, I just dont think he starves himself. I hope so at least

[@ShunkopleX]

42minute movie about a piece of rock? count me in

[@yalimodanclimbing9223]

As a relatively new video editor I must say, this movie is amazing. Truly inspirational. I have yet to see a climbing film with such perfect and precise flow, rythem and feeling. The music and coloring complimented the different moments very well, the breaks were very well timed and added a great deal to the emotions, and the montages (especially the one in the ending sequence) were beautifully cut and rythmic. I will surely come back to this film for inspiration in video editing and for climbing many times in the future. Great job!

[@gillescharlier543]

Thanks dude ! Amazing comment 🙌🙌

[@Voidload]

Man this is amazing! Seeing how Simon fights his frustrations and the ending is just incredible! The power of will and determination this man has. Also really nice cut the video is a masterpiece

[@guillaumevidal8656]

The picture at 15:30 has a huge meme potential ! Bravo Simon ! J'ai de te voir sur Burden !

[@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy]

Sick movie, this was awesome!!! Main thing I need to know though, is where do I get one of those jumpers???

[@gillescharlier543]

He will sold it one day , maybe hahah

[@valentinhausberg9318]

over 60000 views but only 2622 likes. Whats wrong with this all of this people?

[@hamzayusuf3353]

Ca me met vraiment une cartouche!!

[@justingabriele3881]

Dude that was a professional ass film I love this channel

[@julienthiebaut5957]

Its an independant movie, Mellow broadcasts it only. But it's really cool indeed to choose that kind of movie

[@antoineboulanger1102]

Quand il te dit que le bloc rentre demain et qu'il reste 20 minutes de vidéo, ça sent le pâté ! Très belle photographie et montage !!!

[@avon_archives]

mellow casually dropping a movie is wild

[@downgradedproductions]

this is what i love most in bouldering videos... The process and send... Simple like that

[@LilianCvlli]

La couille de loup je pleure 😭

[@mh7706]

Bravo au grimpeur bien sur, quel champion ! bravo au réalisateur aussi qui nous fait découvrir les coulisses de cet exploit, avec rythme, authenticité et une certaine poésie grâce à une sélection musicale superbe qui crée de belles ambiances. Comme je l'ai lu précédemment 42 minutes passionnantes, en général j'accélère jusqu’à la séquence de l'enchainement mais cette fois ci c'est bien tout le processus que j'ai suivis. Vivement des prochaines vidéo de cette haute qualité

[@stampatron]

42 minutes of psych!

[@huntercallahan8697]

Restock your freaking website

[@perrydoig2872]

Could do without the "Am I too fat or..." comments included in the video. There's enough disordered eating in the climbing world already. We don't need to perpetuate it any further.

[@adamgreenan30]

This is a f*cking movie Gilles! Amazing work!

[@estevanruiz6500]

So beautiful, this video is everything I expected and hoped it would be 👏🏼 very well done Gilles & of course bravo to Simon for showing us that we all have the same thoughts and troubles when trying our absolute hardest on a boulder 🤙🏼 best wishes for the future to the both of you

[@danielheber8748]

Awesome video.... however I have some thoughts about the responsibility professional climbers have. Early in the video when things aren't going great, Simon ends up calling himself fat and frustrated, says: "tonight I'm eating really light". Later on he also takes pain killers to help him on the project. Regardless of what you think about eating less and taking pain killers, I believe that it is the responsibility of professional climbers, who are role models to thousands, not to promote unhealthy habits which can lead to under-eating or injury. I don't believe that Simon is in the wrong for doing these things as he is entitled to train and climb however he would like. I do think, however, that these things should not be broadcast to the public. At the very least, if these habits are shown publicly, I think they should come with a notice saying that others should not do as Simon does. I believe it is the responsibility of Simon, the filmmakers and Mellow to not end up accidently promoting some of the most prevalent issues in our sport. That being said...it was a great video and such an incredible send!

[@ipposan2373]

amazing movie! love the way it tells about all the hard stuff someone has to pass through and love the way he reacts having just climbed the boulder!

[@porrasm]

Really motivating! Tomorrow I'm heading to my project!

[@RJeezyATB]

Pretty amazing to see that there are talented individuals that still can push the limits of climbing.

[@vadimdelakian7665]

Bravo Gilles, magnifique taf

[@gillescharlier543]

Merci !!

[@tibogoub6805]

Felicitation ! C'est un superbe accomplicement. T'es une bete ! Merci pour cette superbe video. C'st quoi le projet de l'hiver ?

[@BuenoSociety]

the part from 14:15 - 15:45 makes me sad. It's so a negative approach for dealing with such a situation... just unhealthy to say bad words to yourself, saying that you are worthless, looser and even spitting at yourself. That is not looking healthy to me and I don't want to share time with someone like that on the rock (and I did that many times in the past). It's not good... But, very well edited!

[@thomassalakenos]

it's passion, and a great way to clear out frustration

[@limekrhythm6749]

was thinking the same thing. His girlfriend can’t be having a great time there if he has such mood swings. I felt bad for her.

[@BuenoSociety]

no, not really@@thomassalakenos it's like that you need that success for feeling or being well. Look at Shawn, Will Bosi and others. Different world!

[@tanguylaloy8155]

@@limekrhythm6749 Wtf you saw 2 minutes of someone having a sort of a breakdown during few minutes only speaking about himself, and kinda softly saying that he's bad (trust me I speak french and he's gentle), then managing his emotions and calming down on his own and you allow yourself to say things about his private life when you know nothing about it?

[@tanguylaloy8155]

He didn't say that he's worthless and a looser the traduction is bad. He said "I'm shit" and "I'm bad/I'm so bad today"

[@conserve_climber]

The production value on Mellow video is second to none 👍💪

[@VEE3RDEYE]

Sheer determination. Inspiring to watch

[@ashhodson2063]

Superb film! Captured the surrealness of projecting on your limit whilst battling with skin, conditions and motivation perfectly! "Yeah but dude!"

[@joaquinbeaulieu3071]

The Inspiration and the quality we are able to witness thanks to mellow it's Incredible, big up to them and everyone up to the great content here. I stopped to comment this, lets keep watching the movie 🔥

[@b.good.]

Thanks for sharing the process! One of the best climbing movies lately.

[@Le-paysang]

C'était surbien, merci.

[@anzonelliclimbing]

Wow vraiment inspirant, comment ne jamais perdre de vue l'objectif, la motivation, la confiance et la concentration. Avec un peu de chance, du tape, de la colle et du Doliprane 😅

[@RFrecka]

Tune in for your quarterly Alphane film.

[@patrykcwiertnia7768]

great quality production, but it lack something its not like a first ascent. It was a bit repetitive, and in some moments just boring? - anyway Gratz for Simon for great boulder and 9A into hist log!

[@Watecc]

When's the next clothing drop?

[@nopro_films]

woah! really good film! storytelling, pacing, shoots, colors, sound....everything on point! really well done Gilles Charlier, chapeau!

[@gillescharlier543]

Thanks dude 🙌

[@conradcollins7030]

made the rig look like 7A and the downclimb 9A

[@mr.x5582]

Very well produced. Love the choice of music

[@conserve_climber]

Fantastic send; thank you for taking us along on your journey….brilliant

[@benbx1281]

Proud Belgian watching here. Amazing job Simon ! Ça va se savoir !

[@guiguiizback9252]

Ce qui est remarquable au delà de la performance c'est à quel point le mental peut faire la différence.

[@stevensenant]

Insane Simon, magnifique couille de loup ptdrrr

[@bullydungeon9631]

Holy fuck this was amazing

[@olivierbernard4586]

Magnifique film ! Bravo Gilles ! Vivement la suite ! BOD ?

[@gillescharlier543]

évidemment !

[@lemao8063]

14:14 is me every time I fall off literally anything lmao

[@leotenno4534]

Bien joué 👍 svp continuez à faire des vidéos en français. C’est nul si tout est en anglais.

[@callmetarif]

That was dope!!!! Straight fire!!! 🔥

[@alexandragloth2483]

Somebody give this man a bottle of liquid bandage so that he stops putting glue on his wounds, please!

[@eivindwang1103]

Chapeau for the climbing, but also for the excellent edit! Truly inspiring! The movie captures the essentials of commitment, focus, and sheer will!

[@luigimanuelli1522]

seeing a man criticize himself and blame himself so much makes me sick. congrats for the climb but I'm not sure if it was worth it.

[@SveinungRyan]

In the future, bouldering will have so tiny holds, that you'll have to use super-glue to actually glue yourself onto the start hold.

[@theoclimbs]

one of the best

[@dvdsct]

Sick

[@Keukeu45]

Cool to see the struggles aswell as the good moments.

[@alvi2359]

masterpiece Gilles and Simon!!!

[@gae_channel_1]

Une machine 🦾. Je n'ose imaginer les perfs stratosphériques que tu auras le jour ou tu seras bienveillant avec toi même 😉

[@charlotteboesling]

Absolutely stunning work Gilles & Simon! 🔥

[@zeMalreen]

Simon Lorenzi = 🚜

[@maxidlab]

perfectly crafted, mellow at the top, amazing persistence lorenzi

[@olivierdebruin3484]

Fantastic editing

[@fredclimb]

Una bestia enjaulada! Super strong!

[@flip_lange]

We’re gonna climb in one shirt, one shirt only 😅🔥🔥🔥

[@ilvonful]

Really well made. Bravo!

[@MrWill830]

Bravo pour la réalisation, vraiment du beau boulot

[@gillescharlier543]

🙌🙌🙌

[@roxanedurand2870]

Superbe réalisation pour le film et magnifique performance pour le bloc... C'est toujours intéressant de montrer tout le processus de travail d'un projet, et non pas uniquement le résultats final de l'enchainement. La première partie du film où l'on voit tous les obstacles à surmonter (météo, peau..) contraste vraiment avec la seconde partie avec l'enchainement. L'important est de ne jamais lacher l'affaire!

[@crossedbanach2883]

What a proces!!

[@anderssends6315]

pure joy

[@kevinmomo7903]

Superbe réalisation 👍

[@alexandrelapalme1943]

"Ahhh la surcouille de loup"😅

[@martinortegaperezzea3153]

This is a fu**ing masterpiece

[@jamesaviles9786]

Id like to know what camera / lens was used to shoot this. I enjoyed the cinematography.

[@gillescharlier543]

I used black magic 6k pro with the classic sigma 18-35 and tokina 11-16

[@jonathanrossddsmhs1271]

Another Mellow banger!

[@laurarodrigues5975]

well okay... I see a lot of good comments here and I wanted to point out that the film is really amazing, and of course the climbing is epic, but the way he dealt with it? Trash. All the "I'm worth nothing", or "I was fat yesterday" really didn't make you feel a little bit weird? Like, the guy is one of the strongest out there right now and keeps saying he is weak, what about all of us? And what about all the other things that you are worth other than climbing a whatever wall? And the body shaming of having FOOD, saying he's gonna starve himself, wtf? Do you know how this sounds for people (like me) that have dealt with eating disorders? Anyways, felt really uncomfortable on how he deals with the process. I much rather watch those videos where people send the boulders after 152 days (or more) but are still happy doing it everyday.

[@danielheber8748]

Totally agree. I left a similar comment before I saw yours. I feel like professional climbers have a responsibility as role models to not promote unhealthy habits such as under-eating. Also, as you said, the feeling of the video was that he was only having fun when he was succeeding. I feel like this video portrayed failure as such a bad thing even though it is what 90% of climbing is about. Climbing isn't only fun when you're doing well and it shouldn't be promoted that you have to starve yourself to have fun and succeed!

[@tanguylaloy8155]

Don't forget that it s also a bad translation making it sounding worse than in reality. Still he s harsh on himself, but not as harsh as what the english version shows

[@benbx1281]

He is not completely seriouys when He speaks in french. The translation makes it worse than it really is. Also have you ever struggled for a big goal ? This love/hate relation to yourself and the project is part of the road. Maybe you prefer watching Shawn who is high and happy 24/7 but not everybody is like that. Deal with it.

[@benkim996]

Stupid comment. You’re soft asf. Yeah eating disorders are no joke and fueling is rly important. If you wanna achieve something as grand as this you gotta do shit you don’t want to 😂 Also, eating like a pig and properly fueling are two different things. One is necessary for the body(fueling obviously 😂), another is done for pure pleasure. It would be foolish to expect to send at your max after eating 5 pound of food the day before.

[@benkim996]

@@danielheber8748dawgggg simon doesn’t mean he has to starve himself ☠️☠️☠️ he just means that he has to stop eating like shit 😂 two completely different things

[@HappyChap7777]

Wonderful video and such a pleasure to watch! I love the longer form content that provides deeper insight to the process and the ups and downs. However, I do think we need to talk about the comments made at 15:30. I know it is only a translation that I am reading as an English speaker and I could be missing out on context, but regardless, this video was translated into English and that is how many people are consuming his words. I enjoyed his attitude and watching the battle throughout the rest of the video, but I believe that there should be absolutely zero tolerance in climbing media for any language portraying "I am feeling weak and performing badly, therefore I will eat less". Climbing is obviously a strength to weight endeavor, and there is lots of nuance to be discussed on the matter as it is absolutely a part of the sport, but as a coach who has worked with many climbers who easily fall into toxic narratives surrounding performance and simply eating less, it is extremely concerning to see it in an influential video. I hope this isn't seen as an attack towards any individual, but just someone who is concerned about how dangerous these simple phrases can be.

[@maxwellerickson7066]

It is a true fact of the sport that weight is correlated directly to how well we climb... there are plenty of times when you will "feel" heavy and bloated perhaps because of what you have eaten recently. I agree that we should make sure that everyone in climbing knows the risks of undernourishment and RED-S, this is important, but when you say "absolutely zero tolerance" I think we are just fooling ourselves. No one is helped when the influential climbers pretend it doesn't exist! I appreciated seeing the video honestly portray Simon's struggles and I would rather that than the opposite.

[@thecruxism]

Great video! But can subtitles be little bigger and not yellow?

[@gillescharlier543]

Okay I’ll do it for Burden !

[@HoldTheory]

YESSSSS

[@steveilg6134]

The way to win is to make it ok to lose… Congrats on the Send! Comparing the psyches of these Alphane sends would make a fascinating study fr 🙏🏾