Scarpa Presents: Soudain Seul 9A/V17 x Simon Lorenzi

[@Prestonmartin09]

I cant believe you guys got the footage out this quickly

[@c.j.qualey4897]

😭

[@evanpowers1795]

Waiting a few years for a few ascents is the correct call. This is not necessarily a film about Simon. It's a film about Soudain Seul starring Simon. The story doesn't end with him.

[@Wheel_Rock]

Only took 3 years to release this 😍😍

[@dreamways2581]

Rock hard rn

[@MrWill830]

Waiting for BoD in 4 years

[@gillescharlier543]

@@MrWill830 5 years*

[@Wheel_Rock]

@@dreamways2581 I’m rock hard after that Simone in underwear scene 😫

[@Wheatman02496]

Stay hard

[@jorgecrimps]

I cant believe how dedicated Simon can be for a climb and his craft. Showing up sometimes is not enough. You have to clean snow off a rock by yourself, hand made your own optimized Frankenstein shoe and knee pad thickness/stiffness. Hunt down perfect conditions, and never believing you are not able to do it, instead thinking “what else can I perfect?” and “how can I be better?”. This ascent was really ahead of its time which is why the 9A grade got so much shit, but this man has done Burden of Dreams and Alphane now and will without a doubt do the ones in the US this upcoming season. So give him his flowers already and get over yourselves with the “book is aid” talks

[@marretlineberry6979]

The origin for the name of this boulder is so unique

[@vaudoutwitter]

And the name very beautiful and evocative. 😊

[@Hahtaitai]

After 34:20 minutes only the dog is left listening to him talking about gluing thing together. After the dog leaves he is indeed soudain seul.

[@BlueeeIT]

Underrated comment😂

[@dinohajdarevic7623]

I just love the ending scene with Simon finaly sending and 10 seconds later you see another guy brushing the holds. Cycle of life.

[@Voidload]

Man Simon's wife/GF is MVP... Well no there is also the guy who held the bouldermat for the sun... So many amazing people... Also I can't help but to laugh seeing Simon brushing this during the snowfalling... He is such an amazing madman

[@colosseer4184]

The fact that you crafted your own optimized shoe blew my mind. This much dedication and channeling of energy is a rare good and I love the fact that climbing can push us to find this obsession. When life is troubling, there's nothing better to hold on to, than a boulder.

[@PPKFilms]

It's a dragstinct lvsr

[@gillesparez9119]

What you think before watching : Scarpa provided the shoes of the FA ! What you think after watching : Scarpa did not provide the shoes of the FA. Bravo ! Fricadelle pour fêter ça :)

[@milantheis2916]

If there will ever be a bouldering museum, than this book definetly belongs there

[@yannfinger6444]

The book is actually at the Brussels gym “Le Camp de Base” as an artefact 😊

[@jordanenepekides9777]

No aggressive screams after the send, no cries of celebration. A simple "here I am, sitting on your island". Humble as can be. Unreal.

[@teddycai1824]

wdym he says "AH PUTAIN" right as he tops lol - amazing send nonetheless

[@jordanenepekides9777]

@@teddycai1824 Yes, but that was it. Afterwards he seemed to go into an intimate reflection. A type of humility and humbleness not seen often in this sport lol. Almost like he acknowledged that he sent, but knew that his efforts were appreciated through his peers. Made it all the more profound for me first watch. Think we all can learn a bit from that attitude. I know I certainly can.

[@BoboBish]

I love that Simon/Mellow arent bowing to the "downgrade pressure" since Nico suggested 8C+. It's lame when one downgrade is allowed to take precedence over multiple other proposals.

[@maxidlab]

Incredible editing. Beautiful pacing. Diving deep into the process, both physically and psychologically. The musicality building tension throughout. And his last line while he sits on the boulder after ascending. What a film. Hats off to all the crew.

[@ehlava]

yeah, this is a boulderers edit for sure.

[@LeonardoYoshimitsu]

"It's a nice birthday present for you though." :) Simon, the underwear model, cobbler, shoe designer, dog whisperer, book gluer, tape master, and climber finds himself suddenly alone atop the rocky island.

[@hunter-tm2kl]

peak cinema.

[@drewshane5431]

Better than any Reel Rock film I’ve seen in years! Well done.

[@sebastienlaborie3168]

ENFIN des vidéos qui documentent le vrai process d'enchainer un bloc extreme. Soudain Seul et Alphane, deux films hyper inspirants. BRAVO

[@MonkeyBarsEveryday]

Reading books? ❌ Glueing them to your leg ✅

[@hyau23]

Hea not even a sponsored climber. Guy works a normal job. What a weekend warrior 😂

[@GamerFigure]

he said exam so I assume uni student?

[@benbx1281]

He is in Belgium national elite team. So he has most probably a paid athlete contract. But he is studying at the same time with an adapted schedule most probably. It's quite common in Belgium elite sport.

[@tjalarun]

blocking the sun with the crashpad is hilarious

[@oDazzleRazzle]

Crash pad sunglasses are aid

[@tipsudachaomuangkhong8342]

whatever helps get your homie sends...

[@flooo5071]

so good ! This ascent raised the debate about what is "ethical" or not in climbing and I think that's good. The insights about how much the boulder is condition dependent is really interesting as well. Looking forward to see new ascents (Charles Albert ?)

[@pierrez8570]

It's been repeated since by Nicolas Pelorson and Camille Coudert (the two people he mentions were working the boulder as well at the start of the video). I think Pelorson suggested 8C+ but Coudert suggested 9A. Perhaps it's a size difference as Pelorson is a fair bit taller than Simon.

[@vadimdelakian7665]

Sublime film, sublime ascension, merci mille fois. Quel plaisir d'avoir accès à ça, à ce besoin d'obsession, de persévérance. A la beauté de ce sport extraordinaire, unique..

[@axelmendoza9691]

Incroyable, tant sur le montage que sur l'effort, l'histoire, les musiques, l'ambiance de Bleau tellement bien mise en avant... Ouf

[@vasishtagonzlez3418]

Love these videos that capture the whole story of the boulder and process!

[@ferrells0987]

maybe my favorite hard bouldering film. i love love seeing so much of the process, including all of Simon's strategy, management of conditions, and modification of his equipment. that will hopefully help me with my hardest boulder ever! and just a really beautiful film. thanks

[@menantmartin8001]

Another masterpiece, must have been long to edit so thanks for this short movie and congrats for the send !!

[@jacksonwhitcup1185]

I know it's a friendly rivalry, but "Here I am, sitting on your island" is just ice cold

[@ZacSMMS]

Finally got round to watching this, what a mega, Simon is truly a pioneer, also love seeing the origin of the name 💪 revolutionary work Simon!!!

[@TheSmoke314]

Stunning content, stunning ascent and a joyful and powerful athlete. Merci pour cette vidéo Gilles et Simon

[@enochmyers125]

One of the most breathtaking films I have ever seen. Phenomenal work!

[@andreacomisso926]

Wow this is beautiful, super interesting to see he finding al the adjustments needed to do the boulder

[@Souslik19]

Thank you Gilles for making such amazing content and Simon for being such a beast! See you next time in Vendôme for another documentary hehe

[@tiuclaudio]

Amazing gimbal work on the send, must have been nerve wracking. Well worth the wait. Thank you, Gilles!

[@Metalgear222]

Super-glue custom shoes, changing book thickness and stiffness for kneepads, air-suspended fans on crux holds. Wild.

[@oDazzleRazzle]

Are you saying it shouldn’t count? I’m genuinely curious not trying to be argumentative

[@kleiber1729]

I like the guy and the film and Mellow, and he can do whatever he wants as long as he tells what he's done, and be happy and proud and everything, but extending the dimensions of ones extremities with stuff (as opposed to changing the surface of part of that extremities) is aid. sorry.

[@Metalgear222]

@@oDazzleRazzle to each their own of course. me personally i would never feel comfortable with this level of aid; it takes away the magic of climbing using only ones genetics and earned strength/limbs to ascend. i thought it was kinda cool that one wouldnt abuse kneebars cause it hurts like hell. idk i have friends that use kneepads, i dont have a single climber friend that would be comfortable creating custom shoes to fit a specific rock or project.

[@homesboy13579]

@@Metalgear222isnt that what climbing shoes are to begin with though? Custom made shoes with varying stiffnesses and rubbers and fits to help us climb rocks. For instance, if there is a specific heel hook I will often wear two different pairs of shoes, one I like best for heel hooking on one foot and one I prefer for toeing in on the other.

[@00Platypus00]

@@homesboy13579 It is indeed arbitrary where one draws the line... chalk and shoes somehow fit into "one's genetics and earned strength/limbs" lol

[@sylvianbraibant7381]

Haaaa, enfin un septante dans une vidéo francophone, merci! Good job btw!!

[@lucaslittlehale9617]

Great now we have to hear comments about books being aid 😂

[@Raisenbread]

Using books has always been aid

[@hunter-tm2kl]

@@Raisenbread what if i cant read?

[@99oscar]

Definetly one of the best bouldering videos (movies) ever released!!

[@trevoroats8145]

So all I need to climb V17 is to glue a book to my leg and mix two shoes together? Damn! Great film ❤️

[@JeannieMattson]

And maybe become Simon lorenzi

[@nikolaskarolides2577]

This is the type of story you read about in books. Super inspiring.

[@thewongbeta]

What a journey! This is the best climbing movie I've watched in a long time. Thank you for sharing it with us.

[@anthonyyatesfotaj]

Great video. Fascinating to see the attention to detail manipulating the shoe rubber.

[@janekboulders]

I really liked watching olympics today but this was soo much better

[@beautifulonion]

Lovely, thanks for sharing! Awesome work here to everyone involved! Bravo!

[@tomcharoy9919]

wonderful video, well done Gilles !

[@kedpik]

So impressive, I love the footage ! The fact you have to optimize your VSR by destroying a Drago and it's still sponsorised by Scarpa made me laugh ! Bien joué mec =D

[@this_too_shaII_pass]

Absolutely beautiful

[@JSchanback94]

How involved is Simon in the editing and production of this video? It’s quite impressive, beautifully crafted. Impressed he has such talents in both climbing and videography/art.

[@mohnpincemin4790]

This film is superb !!!!!

[@pierremilot8117]

Awesome vid, legendary ascent. One note in the translation "ruler" would more adequately be translated to "crimp".

[@timstapleton9083]

Such a cool film, insane the dedication these guys have to completing these boulders

[@99oscar]

Haven't even watched it yet and I'm already excited 😂

[@romanewauthier4112]

Fan of these guys 🫶🏼

[@oliverfutrell9870]

Great film thanks for posting 😀

[@mariejulien6596]

Mellow présente Simon L :) et de belle manière. Beau et humain. Je me suis refait celle de Nico P en passant. Thx a lot

[@Rip-ow2zy]

And I guess that yeah, this is a bouldering video

[@saxongoold7832]

A masterpiece.

[@LilianCvlli]

Happy to wait 3 years to see the FA

[@LilianCvlli]

Legendary 9a

[@akinaridate9233]

Ohh i love this pure insanity,, it make me feel good little bit for being human

[@BorisDePooter]

Finallyyyy!! Sick send Belgian crusher 👊

[@kieransquared]

i would love to know what plugs, ramps, flats, and rulers are

[@Jagknorr]

All the things he glues to himself to get up this boulder. 😂

[@nandovancreij]

don't forget the cartridges!!!

[@tovawr]

I only know that flats are slopers and rulers are crimps (in portuguese we use the french names for those)

[@mastamiagi]

Yeah, the translation was a bit off on the climbing lingo. "Plugs" are a mistranslation since "prises" in french means both "holds" and "electrical outlets". Rulers are crimps, flats are non incut holds. I have no clue for "cartridges".

[@paulmitchell5349]

Core strength to lift the right foot near the top move. The instinct knows the best method, shown in the first ascent.

[@chrissk805]

Here i am, sitting on your island.

[@slow2by2z]

That struck me too. Simon just accomplished something truly great and he's still concerned that he took something away from someone else. Seems like a genuinely good guy.

[@noideaexe]

Here it comes

[@kevinbrubaker6076]

I live for long Mellow videos

[@sethbleazard173]

This guy tactics are next level

[@oliverfox5638]

Appreciate the amount of crag dogs

[@Schyluer]

We need a Simon and Will Bosi boulder co-lab!

[@bodysurfsooke]

Very good. 9a level editing :)

[@tristanfransen5565]

This is the output when you find an old hard drive with some random footage under your desk

[@smootha111]

Send footage at 51:20

[@joaobrito2874]

Thank you now I can watch this part quickly in the toilet and later when I get home from work I can watch the whole thing

[@jefesound]

This is beautiful

[@b.good.]

Thank for sharing!

[@JMnyJohns]

Even attempting something like this is beyond what all but a handful of people will ever do. And is an amazing accomplishment in any case. Seriously amazing. But maybe, it begs a question: The book, fans, pre chalking, etc - at what point are you bringing the climb down to your ability vs. bringing yourself up to the climb? If you are too short and add 2 inches of rubber to your shoe is that okay? Are any means justified? Does it even matter? I don't know but am curious what others think.

[@נטעגפני]

Best movie i ever sow❤

[@svSGRDGRG1234]

Dinguerie !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@alimcmellon7130]

Which works better in the kneepad - fiction or non-fiction?

[@GabrielVazz_]

Daaaam, amazing film. Resume in 3 things: Book, Glue and 1 Frankstein Shoes climb

[@gba.87]

Beautiful!

[@artikaalpouchecot2377]

Machine de guerre

[@Particularpete]

Better make a Scarpa Lorenzi pro model which was probably why this was so long, to show the shoe development

[@Klimse.]

Great documentary, thanks for putting it out on KZbin! Incredibly well put together, especially since it must have been a lot of material to go through. It was very insightful to see Simon's dedication and attention to detail. I also liked seeing all the people around him in the montage at the end. Did you ask some of them to take part in the film or did you consciously stick closely to Simon?

[@betones666]

Surreal!!

[@nansuncailloux9876]

bien jouer mec la classe

[@Michael-zz8yx]

Amazing! Also cool seeing charles albert. Did he send the big island? Would be sick!

[@MgCO3climbing]

These comments are the perfect place for all the V3 KZbin climbers to decide, once and for all, the exact thickness when a kneepad becomes "aid" for a V17 climber.

[@SCOclimbing]

It doesn't matter if you are a V0 climber or a V18. Climbing is a sport which relies on ethic and truth. In my opinion it is not ethic to use a book under a kneepad that already gives you a small advantage over a non-user, but adding a book with over 200 pages under it (which btw isn't a centimeter like he said in the latest podcast he was invited too, lying blatantly because even the measures of resellers clearly say 0,91 inches or 2.31cm) is clearly not being fair about a climb. I will not say it is aid because thats hella stupid to say about a V16/17 boulder problem specially because there were repeats WITHOUT the book, but to say it is ok for Simon to use a book under a kneepad to make it possible to do a kneebar is completely outrageous to accept it in terms of ethic. It's like a climber will use ice axes on a slab climb and call it a send because in the end he just added a few inches to his arm and the ice axe didn't much because its just a slab with no handholds. I am also not saying "oh you have to climb barefoot otherwise climbing shoes are aid" because again, calling this aid is stupid but yet again: we have open the door to use kneepads in climbs which to me feels perfectly fine, but to add stuff under it just for the sake of having a better kneebar (which btw in this climb the kneebar makes the climb totally possible or not) is insane to me and many climbers out there. I have given up on climbs very well on my reach of grade just because the style or my morphology don't let me climb it, it is what it is. Adam Ondra said this on Excalibur himself "I am fine to accept routes that I will never be able to climb". If Adam Ondra himself can be humble to admit he can't do a 9b+ with his shoes, kneepads and harness why would a V17 climber use a book under a kneepad just for the sake of doing a boulder that his body doesn't help him doing it? In the end, it is just ethics. I am supporter of Simon and I was phsyced after he sent Alphane and BoD but for me, this climb will never represent the good climber he is, specially after he lied about the book size.

[@MgCO3climbing]

@@SCOclimbing The point is that it's a kneepad. Kneepads are accepted as not being aid. A book just makes the kneepad thicker. So now you and all the other people concerned about "ethics" (I put this in quotes because this specific issue being discussed has, in reality, absolutely zero to do with actual ethics) are in the position of determining how many centimeters is too many. So, let's have it! How many cm do you propose?

[@longb1913]

@@MgCO3climbing a book made his fkin leg longer for the kneebar, bro literally changed his dimensions to take weight off his fingers. literally aid AF

[@SCOclimbing]

@@MgCO3climbing if you feel like adding a knee pad which is already 1/1.5cm thick with a 2.30cm thick book with tape on top to be able to do the move as he even stated at 17/18ish mins is on you mate. Like I said, I have given up on v4s because my flexibility is dogwater and I have to accept I either work it out or climb different stuff but I wont ask a friend to push my feet because its just a small help that doesnt make any difference. Hope you can understand my point. Plus I never called it aid.

[@MgCO3climbing]

@@SCOclimbing Nico Pelorson repeated the boulder and also used a book under his kneepad. In a Mellow video of Shawn Raboutou working on the problem, he stuffed a thick stack of pamphlets in his kneepad because he "couldn't find a book." The reason I mentioned "V3 KZbin climbers" in my original post is that these professional climbers can decide for themselves what they want to do. They put out videos showing their methods, and if it makes a few randos on the internet angry, I'm pretty sure they're okay with that.

[@deanmartin7961]

i cant wait to watch this

[@deanmartin7961]

52:52 is such a great shot

[@deanmartin7961]

57:57 is aswell

[@benpostlethwaite4895]

So inspiring!

[@13Omega37]

If this is what’s needed to send 9A, then the first 9A+ will be sent by an obscure Italian shoemaker.

[@renauddespax8581]

Beau film, beau combat dans la durée, certains autres sports beaucoup mieux rémunérés pourraient s'en inspirer.....et belle libération à la fin ! Attention pour le "plus rien d'autres n'a d'importance" qui pourrait blesser les proches si dévoués par ailleurs, même si on a bien compris le sens de la phrase. La grimpe se "scientifise", les protos sont mis au point par l'athlète lui-même, intéressant, quel sera le nom de ce futur Scarpa ? Seulement Vn+1 ? 😉

[@quoctrungly3322]

Been waiting for this

[@dsmeier6270]

This film made me realize how bouldering tends toward the obsessive. Lol. I'm the same way with a project.

[@tipsudachaomuangkhong8342]

The fact that the dog is unharmed XD... dude...get off the pads... but love this video though...love the journey and the rawness of projecting. It really fires me up to project HARDER. Good stuff!

[@tjalarun]

Amazing movie!!!!!!!!!!

[@anzonelliclimbing]

Putain de film et de motivation. Madonna mia Simon !

[@downwind_drifter]

Fantastic 🤙🤙

[@MrWill830]

Bruh the translation is way off sometimes lmao. The "ruler" instead of the "crimp", the "sheath" instead of something like "engaging your core" or whatever. Enjoyable watch nonetheless, congrats on this FA

[@tanguylaloy8155]

Yes same with the alphane video that translated some of simon lorenzi s slures into 10x worse self deprecating words

[@julianisface]

Typos everywhere too. "Verry", "ass". Dont think anyone even checked the translation. They should reupload it with a proper translation I can only imagine what else wasnt able to be conveyed properly.

[@alf11588]

I figured he just likes to refer to the crimp as a ruler lol

[@Key-te2ls]

That's because it's a litteral translation of the french words. A crimp = une reglette A sloper=un plat These names can be translated as in the video in non climbing contexts

[@MrWill830]

@@Key-te2ls Yeah, I know. Which is a bad translation job lol

[@VinceTrueMental]

Incroyable

[@padi9112]

SI SEÑOR ES CINE

[@tommy5329]

This one is an instant classic. Gives the same vibes as alphane and megatron

[@rileyshackelford1351]

this is so fire