Scent-a-Tron v2: Make a Glade Air Freshener Smart with ESPHome

[@3ATIVE]

For a total parts cost (About £10) *this whole project costs less* than my previous tutorial's base Air Freshener unit - _Before you modify it._

[@justintrx59]

Let’s gooooo! This is my favorite KZbinr when it comes to home assistant projects. The air purifier is working great!

[@3ATIVE]

Thank you soooo much for the wonderful compliment.

[@justintrx59]

Thank you, for everything you do, for your very useful videos that I’ve learned a lot from.

[@3ATIVE]

@@justintrx59 You are most welcome.

[@moosew168]

Thanks for that awesome video! Using your tutorial I now have my own Scent-a-Tron! ❤

[@3ATIVE]

Excellent! Hearing about my tutorials being used *_AND_* there's a new Scent-a-Tron in the wild, _makes it all worth while._ 🥳

[@matthiaszeise9916]

@3ATIVE: your projects are absolut fantastic! I love your channel. Awsome! Thanks for sharing this with us!

[@3ATIVE]

Aww thank you for the kind words and the support. It's been a while (I've been sick) I hope to back to filming stuff ASAP.

[@matthiaszeise9916]

@@3ATIVE I wish you all the best! I hope you recover soon!

[@3ATIVE]

@@matthiaszeise9916 Feeling much better now, thanks. I'm hoping to do a Live Stream on the 24th... NEW tutorials again in January.

[@saracenas69]

Thank you so much! I do enjoy your yaml explanations, fantastic teaching event for the guys with no programming experience!

[@3ATIVE]

That's the feedback I like. 👍 I do love a 'Lambda' LOL I too am learning/trying out new things.. making my coding better... and of course I share as soon as I have something new.

[@elevatedviewstcl]

Great tutorial!!!

[@3ATIVE]

I hope so too. LOL I also hope you find it useful.

[@Poundy]

thats a good upgrade to the previous one !

[@3ATIVE]

Thanks Brett - I hope you like the tutorial too. 🙏

[@phil18boydell]

What a great simple project, and so well explained. I have now built three units, one has been modified to include a mq2 sensor, to see if I can get it to auto trigger if the odour gets too much in the toilet.

[@3ATIVE]

Thanks fella for the feedback and the support. You got the "Gas" sensor deployed eh? - Nice one. Grab some Baked Beans and let me know how well it senses! LMAO

[@Paw_Low]

Did your gas sensor work as expected?

[@phil18boydell]

@@Paw_Low no, there is a slight change to the partical rate, but not a massive amount and it took a minute or so to peak, even with 1 second sampling, when sprayed this also sent it off the scale!

[@fibranijevidra]

What a fine code execution?! I hate spraying chemicals in the air, but I would love to modify one.

[@3ATIVE]

Thank you, wonderful compliment. I'm always trying new ways to code these projects. And I love sharing the "out of the box" things I come up with.

[@fibranijevidra]

@@3ATIVE Thank you. Keep on doing it your way. I really like your fast paced editing. Maximum information, zero BS.

[@3ATIVE]

@@fibranijevidra It's comments and people like you that make it all worth while. - I make my tutorials how I like watch them.... _You'll never hear me talk about what my Cat did today_ 🤣

[@rodneysmith1750]

Fantastic, and enjoyable!

[@3ATIVE]

Best comment I could hope for. Thank you.

[@Sunilkhusal]

Hi @3active, great video and very well explained. However, would it be possible for you to post a circuit diagram of the project (a sketch will do)? it will make it easier to understand the connections. Also, can one use any other standard step-down buck converter or will it only work with the "Youmile" one?

[@3ATIVE]

Thank you for the compliment - I really appreciate the feedback. As for "a circuit diagram" there's really nothing to draw, just follow my Step-by-Step explanation... you'll have all the info you need. No, not all regulator boards are the same. I chose this one specifically because it has the Enable/Disable pin and it's a pivotal part of the project.

[@sygad1]

love this, thanks for posting incredibly detailed instructions. Do you have anything that could be used for the trigger instead of a timer, e.g. "smell sensor" for use in a bathroom

[@3ATIVE]

I'm glad my efforts are appreciated. I do try and give as much detail as possible. As for 'other' triggering: I don't have anything atm but, if you take a look at my previous version - That can be triggered by light level. I called it "Bathroom Mode" The code here maybe helpful for you: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqvFpWh7p9V2jLs

[@sygad1]

@@3ATIVE Cheers i'll take a look., An IKEA air quality sensor might do the trick for toilets.....i'll investigate

[@3ATIVE]

If you need anything else - please feel free to ask. Also, check out my discord server for more in-depth support.

[@justblairthompson]

A motion sensor might be your best bet. Or an air quality sensor

[@maxturlad9127]

Bravo, super.

[@3ATIVE]

Thanks Max, glad you liked it. 👍

[@AlmightyEye]

I was totally gonna do this but with the HomeKit SDK on the ESP board, BUT, the USB-C requirement made it a no-go as mine is hung high up on a wall in my bathroom for maximum coverage. Cool tutorial though!!! 👍🏼

[@3ATIVE]

Yeah for a Bathroom, running in USB power can be a pain. Hopefully you'll find another room in which to use this Glade Hack.

[@31cazuza]

new tutorial 👏

[@3ATIVE]

Sorry it took so long. :D

[@markszymura]

Hi, thanks for the great video, just one issue, after 3 attempts with different d1's found each time the D1 when programmed would connect to router but once wired up , with 5v and ground reading correct on d1, the blue led would flash briefly but not connect to router. Decided to wire up with connectors and found D3 was the issue. Once disconnected the d1 would connect, then once reconnecte to d3 the d1 worked fine. Any ideas? poss use another pin? D3 is used for the restore to flash

[@3ATIVE]

Hmmm that's weird behaviour. It clearly works as shown in the video. Plus I have made 5 here, and others too, without any issue. D3 Will prevent Boot if pulled low but in this tutorial I have that wire connected to the top push button which ONLY goes low when it's pressed.

[@matthiaszeise9916]

@@3ATIVE I had exactly the same problem: as soon as the switch was connected to D3, the esp8266 no longer booted. After hours of troubleshooting, it seems ridiculous, I swapped the cables on switch contacts - it suddenly worked immediately! After looking at the remaining button-board/circuit, I suspect that parts of the connected "residual circuitry" are simply interfering with the input of the D3. Interferences etc. Conclusion: It probably makes sense to simply separate the conductor tracks leading to the switch.

[@3ATIVE]

@@matthiaszeise9916 I guess some D1 Minis are susceptible to floating pins. Sorry you had problem but, glad you found it. 👍Thanks for the feedback - I'll be sure to take note in my future projects/tutorials.

[@neilos2085]

When you say connect the first blue wire to the motor, which one do you mean? The one you soldered first?

[@3ATIVE]

Coming from the Push-Button it doesn't matter which one you use.

[@neilos2085]

@@3ATIVE ok thanks. not sure its related to my issue where the motor just constantly spin's :)

[@3ATIVE]

@@neilos2085 If that's the case, your Regulator board is faulty - it should be powering anything until its "Enable" pin is taken High (Via D8)

[@roystervi]

am in the front line for this

[@3ATIVE]

Thanks man. 👍👍

[@NoRzYeah]

Great video! Is there any change to make video with VL53L1X for people counter?

[@3ATIVE]

Thank you and I hope you find it useful too. I hadn't planned on adding other sensors, I just wanted to add this much cheaper "Squirter" 😉to Home Assistant. I know Larry added the Time-of-Flight sensor to his but, I never saw the point. LOL

[@NoRzYeah]

@@3ATIVENo, didn’t mean to add sensor on this. 😂 different video with only the sensor.

[@3ATIVE]

@@NoRzYeah OIC... Got ya. Well I haven't tested them for response time(s) but, I'm not sure if they would trigger fast-enough, unlike the "normal" LEDs I used in my actual "People in a Room Counter" Project/Tutorial. That I do plan to test soon... When I get some more "Tinkering" Time. #StayTuned.

[@NoRzYeah]

@@3ATIVE I saw the video, but requires two separated circuits, that’s means cables that can’t hide them 😂. The sensor is fast. I hope to check it.

[@3ATIVE]

@@NoRzYeah Indeed, one either side of the doorway... I have a load of the ToF sensors, I'll have a "Play" asap.

[@homeauto9099]

YAY!!! A new @3ative tutorial - party-on 🥳🥳

[@3ATIVE]

Yeah, it's been a while, right. LOL

[@smarthomesellout]

Dude great video but I just watched 25 minutes on how to make a cool thing and you never showed off actually using the cool thing you made lol

[@3ATIVE]

Hey Brandon 👋 Thank you for your compliment 👍 Yeah, I hear ya.... But it kinda doesn't do anything, apart from "Squirt" !!! LOL - So, I didn't think it was worth showing. HOWEVER, you're not the first to mention that. Maybe I should make a Short?

[@smarthomesellout]

@@3ATIVE I am personally not a fan of shorts but yeah 1min or so showing a few basic concepts then the finished product *squirting* a few times would be cool haha

[@3ATIVE]

@@smarthomesellout I know what you mean. While I have make a couple... the format is even harder to edit than a full 1080 video.

[@akasha1337]

There also a 3.3v port on d1 mini can't use this port for power the motor also?

[@3ATIVE]

No, because a GPIO pin can only sink about 40mA max.

[@akasha1337]

​@@3ATIVEI will try it thank you is there any graph with the connection and can use rechargeable aa batteries for power it also?

[@3ATIVE]

@@akasha1337 Cool. FYI: I tried running a similar unit on a 12000mAh power bank - It lasted 8 hours.

[@akasha1337]

Did you also try maybe with any of the sleep modes to work

[@robfre70]

The one i have been wanting for. Not seen it yet though..... Update. Almost done. Waiting for part from Amazon. ESP is programmed. 3 of them I'm building 😂

[@3ATIVE]

Nice. I do hope you find it use/help-ful. 🙏

[@johannhuwae6045]

Same!

[@3ATIVE]

@@johannhuwae6045 I hope you too find it use/help-ful. 🙏

[@roystervi]

Hi, when I click on the Regulator Module Mini Voltage Reducer, am getting a lot of 12v - 24V. The one you is it a 4.5V to 24" ??

[@3ATIVE]

It may be a different listing in other Amazons. But the "12v-24V" is the input voltage range. Also, if it helps you search, the ones I used are called: YOUMILE 10Pcs Step-Down Power Supply Module Mini DC-DC 12-24V To 5V 3A Voltage Buck Converter Adjustable 1.8V 2.5V 3.3V 5V 9V 12V

[@3ATIVE]

... Oh, just checked the listing. I does quote: "Input Voltage: DC 4.5-24V" 😎

[@roystervi]

@@3ATIVE Ok thanks my links are going to 12v - 24V, I had to search for 4.5v - 24V.

[@3ATIVE]

@@roystervi Cool. Just make sure they are the same board, if you want to follow along.

[@KoellePineault]

Thanks for the breakdown! Could you help me with something unrelated: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (behave today finger ski upon boy assault summer exhaust beauty stereo over). Could you explain how to move them to Binance?

[@3ATIVE]

I'm glad you liked my video. But... I HAVE NO IDEA what you are asking about.

[@CraigTinson2015]

ok ok.. I saw V1.. and was *tempted* but didn't... and spending 30 quid for the initial glade and then two packs of "10 just in-cases" board.. sounds a bit much? especially considering my soldering skills... but sod it... giving it a go... and hope for the best... theory being more soldering practice can only make me better at it.... so have ordered it all... if 1st one goes well? am moving to a new house and I already have a dozen spare d1's... will use them for that.. lol also also.. *which* D1 minis are you using? please provide a link... yours seem smaller than the AZ ones I have...

[@3ATIVE]

Yeah soz about the initial costings - It's always best to have more! LOL However, I will be using both the USB-C and these Regulator boards in up-coming projects. Hopefully, those tutorials ( _and some of my older ones_ ) be of use in your new house too. Soldering: I get asked all the time... How do you get so good? My answer: Practice! - So, it's all ya need... Enjoy and have fun. 🥳

[@CraigTinson2015]

@@3ATIVE also also.. which D1 minii's? please add that to the video description? I know it makes it look more expensive.. but as you said.. they can be used in future projects.

[@3ATIVE]

@@CraigTinson2015 Soz, I just noticed your reply.... Any D1 Mini is fine (original or clone) I get mine, in bulk, from China. If you check the video description and look for the last Amazon Link, you'll find a page I made that lists everything I show in my tutorials.

[@BG1E]

So I had to try it for myself but somehow the D1 Mini won't work after plugging it in.. I hear a high pitched noise but nothing works. It also won't connect to WiFi. I double checked wiring and that al seems fine, I even made a second one but that one also doesn't work. Any clue?

[@3ATIVE]

There's no way I can answer that without knowing exactly everything you used, how you did it and what's happening.

[@markszymura]

had the same problem , on the third d1.using connectors rather than soldering and it seems the d1 doesnt want to connect to wifi unless D3 is disconnected first, then it connects and you can reconnect d3 and it works fine

[@BG1E]

@@markszymura Thanks I will give this a try

[@BG1E]

@@markszymura Alright, I gave it a try and it seems to work. However, everytime I unplug the device, I need to reconnect D3. For now I just leave it unplugged and don't use the button. Any ideas on how to solve this?

[@henriktoth56]

@@BG1E You had the same issue as I ran into. The button still connected to the panel isn't an open circuit while not being pressed but has about 40k resistance, which is enough for the ESP to sense it pressed, and this prevents it from booting (it is a well known fact about the D3 pin). So it is better to use a pin not affected by this (D1, D2, D5, D6 or D7) and cut the PCB wire around the switch on the board.

[@bradley1125]

Is anybody able to provide some photos of the orientation of the gears. Mine fell out by accident, and anytime it sprays the it appears to dislodge and cause both plastic parts of the casing to separate. I cannot see if I have things round the right way. Kindest regards

[@3ATIVE]

I can do that now. Lemme pull one apart and get back to you asap.

[@bradley1125]

@ thank you!! I’m pulling my hair out over this.. I’m hoping I’ve just done a cog wrong, otherwise I don’t know what I’ve done

[@3ATIVE]

@@bradley1125 LOL No problemo Here's what you need: imgur.com/a/7Zquo6R

[@bradley1125]

@ heya, thank you for pulling it apart so quickly. The bottom cog, is that facing up with the attached cog facing upwards or downwards? If that makes sense? Kind regards

[@3ATIVE]

@@bradley1125 Probably easier if I show you. So, I took it apart again and made a short video for ya. 😎 kzbin.info/www/bejne/h2rHipyje9CqnJo

[@galdakaMusic]

I hope that there is no need to solder, that nothing is visible aesthetically and that the battery lasts a reasonable time.

[@3ATIVE]

Then this is NOT for you. LOL Loads of soldering and although nothing visible-ish... I do add a USB-C Socket and power it from a charger (No Batteries)

[@neilos2085]

I hope there is loads to do. lol More chance for me to break it!!

[@3ATIVE]

@@neilos2085 I hope so too. It's a 20+ minute tutorial with loads of detailed explanations. :D

[@galdakaMusic]

​@@3ATIVEjajajaj Thanks. I made one of this with ptvo relay switch over Zigbee2mqtt but the battery only lasts one week.

[@3ATIVE]

@@galdakaMusic Yeah, running these things on batteries is a pain. I'm working on Sleep & Deep Sleep for some future projects/tutorial. #StayTuned 😉

[@bradley1125]

Anybody had an issue where after unplugging the device, and re-plugging the device back in the motor is constantly trying to spin almost like it’s forgotten the state or esphome config. After re-uploading the config it then stops, and works correctly.. but it does this after every re power.

[@3ATIVE]

Hmmm... it sounds like the sort of thing you get when "Strapping" pins are used. * Some GPIO pins are held either High or Low at boot. I've avoided them in this project. Is there a chance you're either using a different ESP board or have made changes to the wiring/connections/etc??

[@g.s.3389]

Bravo, but you looked to experiences on how to open it, how many did you destroy before :) ahahaha great job.

[@3ATIVE]

LOL - thanks. Actually, none - they are THAT easy to understand. 😉

[@bednim]

there may be one issue - lack of retract action :(

[@3ATIVE]

@@bednim In my previous version of this project the original mechanism didn't use it. I found this one didn't need it either.

[@bednim]

@@3ATIVE oh okay - well mine definitely needs retract action :)

[@3ATIVE]

@@bednim Weird, I never seen one need it. Sorry yours does.

[@henriktoth56]

Pin D3 is not the best choice for the button, as the ESP doesn't boot if it is pulled down. Of course you won't keep it pressed during power up, but as it turned out, on mine the switch had 40k resistance while not pressed, which was enough for the ESP to consider it closed, so it did not boot... Wired it to pin D1 instead, and also cut the PCB wire around the switch so it is now open circuit without pressing

[@3ATIVE]

So I hear but, as you can see mine worked just fine... Weird right?

[@henriktoth56]

@@3ATIVE Yeah, probably different version of board.

[@3ATIVE]

@@henriktoth56 Defo possible. I know a few peeps had trouble with my Ikea Air Filter project too.

[@udamnit]

Squirts... 🤣

[@3ATIVE]

LOL I know right... 'Sprays' was just too "Normal" 🤪

[@bednim]

Add Ld2410c to the party and we're cooking! 😂

[@3ATIVE]

I don't get why thou

[@bednim]

@@3ATIVE to sense when someone enters the room (toilet or bathroom) - all in one device 🙂

[@3ATIVE]

@@bednim To turn on/off the light? Coz, I see no reason to have a sensor to control the Air Freshener - it has a timer (interval). The whole point is to keep the room smelling nice.

[@bednim]

@@3ATIVE yep lights! Plus a squirt upon entry and perhaps on leave.

[@3ATIVE]

@@bednim OIC - Got Ya. I'll "Have a Play" and see what I Can (no pun intended) come up with and what space is available inside. Thanks for the suggestion 👍