Schneider Conext SW 4024 Split Phase Output 4000 Watt Inverter

In this video I discuss my feelings about my Schneider Conext SW 4024 inverter after 2 months of use.

[@user-lx3mk4bl4v]

Great video! Everything I needed to know about the Conext SW 4024/4048. The control panel to change settings is now $350 verses $28 for the USB dongle for the new Victron Multiplus 48V 5000KVA. Mine is a mobile install so don't need split-phase. Wanting pictures of the install to register it is a bit much. Thanks!👍

[@todddunn945]

I finally got a control panel. It was definitely over priced, but needed.

[@jeffgrier8488]

By your review it seems to be a fairly decent unit, it definitely gives food for thought for would-be purchasers.

[@todddunn945]

That is a fair assessment of my feeling. What I don't know is how log it will last. I seriously considered an AIMS inverter but the less than 90% efficiency and the lack of UL listing were against that inverter. I almost bought a Magnum Magnasine, but it was too pricey in the end.

[@abdu-rahmanhaidra9538]

Great video and explanation for this inverter. I saw in the manual the no load current is 27 watts,but you said it is 41 watts.That is good information about it. I would like to buy Tripp Lite APS 3024 but the no load current is 71 watts.! I saw it in the manual.Because it is a heavy duty inverter.We knew from about over ten years experience of using it. I’m from Yemen,because of war almost 80% of people are using solar power.The solar equipments here cheaper than USA and Europe.This inverter in Yemen for $530.Tripp Lite APS 3024 for $930. The Morningstar 45A MPPT solar charge controller cost $420.In USA it cost $500. May be solar equipments producers make lower prices here in order to get in flourishing market for their products.

[@todddunn945]

I am pleased that you found the video useful. The idle power consumption may be different for a newer inverter. My inverter is almost two years old. It is interesting that electronic components are so much cheaper there.

[@beefitter]

It seems there are not many UL listed split phase inverters at the $1200 price range. Having to add the control panel, while it is another $200.00. You still get what you need to run your well for under $1500.00. I am looking for a split phase inverter for basically the same reason as yours. Running a well pump. Thanks for sharing. How does it perform with your well? Is your well a 1/2 horsepower? It can handle the startup surge? Thanks for taking the time on making the video.

[@todddunn945]

The inverter easily handles my well. Yes I do have a 1/2 hp pump. I am certain the Schneider 2500 watt inverter would handle the well just as easily. My pump takes about 1500-1700 watts to start it and then draws 1250 watts when it is running. One thing I have discovered about my well is that it runs very little. During a typical shower my pump runs 2-3 times for 10-12 seconds each time. Actual power used by the well pump is in the 200 watts or less per day range.

[@rebeltoharriganjr6158]

We didn't have the money for lithium either, we got two at 1,100 each with some money for repairs to the house. Every time I had income tax berate from the government, we bought more , any large influx, we got more. It is directly affected how we are able to live. Massively over size your PV array, you will thank your self for that when the sun is low production mode like winter and rainy days. We here in the tropical Atlantic also have to contend with sarhan dust blooms in the summer months. That dust blooms requires you to stay inside and avoid breathing in those contaminat . That is the reasons for the A/C units and second inverter in parallel.

[@todddunn945]

That is an impressive project you are working on. My system is just to get us through power outages, which are usually less than a day. For me it doesn't make economic sense to go off grid because my total electric bills for a year come to only about $400. My highest usage is in the winter and it peaks between 7 and 8 kilowatt-hr per day. In the summer usage is in the 3-4 kw-hr per day range. If I was to go completely off grid I would have to size the system for Winter. Given our weather I would need to plan on not getting any solar for up to 4-5 days at a time (heavy overcast and snow). That means a 40 kilowatt-hr usable energy battery bank. So batteries alone would cost me in the $25k-$30K range. So battery cost alone for an off grid system here would cost 62 to 75 years of my annual power bills. My array size is limited by how much of the array I can reach to clear snow from the array. I am pretty much there now with a one kilowatt array. I could cut some trees down and install a ground array, but I would need around 10 kilowatts to meet my needs in Winter. That would cost in the neighborhood of $10K. So an off grid system here would run my $40K-$50K or 100 to 125 years of my current electric costs.

[@notshared2543]

Thanks for the review. I'm also looking to run a well pump fridge and a few lights.

[@todddunn945]

You are welcome. The reason I bought this split phase inverter was to run my well pump. I have a 1/2 hp well pump. It uses about 1,200 watts when it is running. I don't know what the startup surge is, but this inverter isn't phased by running the well pump. I currently have a 10 Kwh lead-acid battery bank. It will run my well, fridge, freezer and house lights for about three days. I also have a 1 kilowatt solar array, that provides enough power to keep the well, fridge, freezer and lights running indefinitely in the summer. It isn't enough in the winter.

[@rebeltoharriganjr6158]

after hurricanes Irma and then Maria on September 6, 2017, and two weeks later we didn't have utility power back until January 8, 2018. Our system was one inverter and charge controller, midnite classic 150 refurbs, and 2,250 of panels with trojans lead-acid batteries, they were used and not very good. We ran a ryboi 2,000 generator and use that minimal system to live and we have built the powerhouse we have today. I would like to add a propane 12Kw generator with AGS start and more panels. This will take time.

[@todddunn945]

It sounds like you have a good start though. I would like to switch to lithium batteries but they are $$$$. So I will stick with my lead acid batteries. At least they were new.

[@maynard832]

lol i just talked to somebody and i guess the 40/24 is an AC charger only does not use solar unless you have a stand alone charge controller

[@todddunn945]

That is correct. The4024 is anverter/charger and you need a separate solar charge controller

[@neomatrix2722]

Hey Todd I just bought these this inverter do you have a video of you installing it like to your battery Bank I'm looking for a walkthrough thank you in advance

[@todddunn945]

This video discussed\s the install, but I can tell you what I did here and make a couple of suggestions. I think I covered physically mounting the inverter adequately. It is possible to do it by yourself, but if you can get a helper it will be easier. As far as the wiring goes, my inverter is the Conext SW 4024 that has a maximum amp draw of 250 amps. I used 2/0 cables to connect the inverter to the battery bank. Those cables were Ancor tinned copper with 600VDC 105 degree C rated insulation and an ampacity of 330 amps. I chose that size wire to be able to carry the maximum current for the inverter during a short surge with minimal voltage drop for my length of wire. I made up the individual wires by crimping tinned connectors to the ends of cut pieces of wire using a hydraulic crimping tool. The connectors I used were Ancor tinned copper heavy duty lugs. As far as the details of the wiring go I set it up as follows in the order that I made the connections: DC wiring Negative wire - starting at the battery bank is ran a length of 2/0 cable from the negative connection point on the battery bank to the connection point on a Victron 500 amp shunt that came with my BMV 713 Blue Smart Battery monitor. Note that the shunt and battery monitor are optional. I then connected a piece of 2/0 cable from the shunt to the inverter's negative DC input. Positive wire - starting at the battery bank I installed a Blue Sea MRBF Terminal Fuse Block, rated for up to 58 VDC and up to 300 amps continuous current, to the positive battery connection point. I installed a Blue Sea 250 Amp MRBF fuse. Blue Sea MRBF fuses have a 5000 amp current interrupt capacity at 32 VDC and are fast acting. Those fuses are designed for use a the primary fuses on large battery banks. I then connected a length of 2/0 cable to the connection point on the fuse block that goes to a Blue Sea Single Circuit 9003E 350 amp continuous rated on/off battery switch. From the battery switch I ran a piece of 2/0 cable to the positive DC connection point on the inverter. The battery switch allows me to turn the inverter on and off. AC Wiring I wired the inverter's AC out wiring using a length of four conductor, 10 gauge, generator cord with a molded NEMA L-14-30 plug so that I could plug the inverter AC output into the plug connection of my transfer switch panel. Not that plug was specific to my Reliance transfer switch panel. I did that rather than hard wire the inverter to the transfer switch so that I could unplug the inverter and plug my generator into the transfer switch panel if the batteries went flat during a long duration power outage. I wired the AC in wiring from my electrical panel to the inverter using a length of 10/3 metal clad cable. I chose that cable because the wire would be exposed in my equipment room. I used appropriate strain relief connectors where the wire enter the inverter and the electrical panel The wire was attached to the panel with a 30 amp 2-pole circuit breaker. Note I strongly suggest making the AC wiring connections to the inverter BEFORE you mount the inverter so that you will have good access to the connections inside the inverter. Make the AC connections to the panel AFTER you physically mount the inverter. I hope this helps.

[@SWSTVEDU]

Hi Todd, did you get an SCP? I have a spare and will be happy to send it to you. I have a channel where I show programming, installation, and troubleshooting of these inverters.

[@todddunn945]

Thanks for the offer. I have not gotten one. I figure I will get one when I upgrade to Lithium batteries in a few years. I will check out your channel. I looked at your channel and it looks very good. However, my Spanish is a bit week since it has been more than 50 years since I studied it.

[@SWSTVEDU]

@@todddunn945 Thank you for checking out my channel all my videos have two versions, you can always find an English version of the same video. Also, if you have a shipping address that you would like to share I can send you the SCP.

[@todddunn945]

@@SWSTVEDU Thank you for the offer, but I would prefer that you send it to someone who needs it more. I will buy one when I need it. I will also take a closer look at your videos and find the English pages.

[@maynard832]

Are u still useing this inverter? I have the same one just not hooked up yet.Do you have any idea how much solar power this item can handle?

[@todddunn945]

Yes I have been using it for over three years. The inverter itself doesn't connect to solar. You need a separate charge controller for solar.

[@neomatrix2722]

Hi Todd thank you for your reply must I use a four conductor wire or can I not use a three conductor wire all I'm using the inverter for is just to run it out to a plug so that I can run my air conditioner Hank you and I hope you have a great day

[@todddunn945]

If you want 240 split phase you need four conductor wire. However, if you are just running a 120 VAC circuit you can connect to ground, neutral and either L1 or L2. Note that the inverter likes to have balanced loads, so if, for example you are drawing 15 amps from L1 you should also have circuits wired to L2 that draw about the same amperage.

[@neomatrix2722]

Do you have a picture of a four wire diagram from the inverter side like which wire goes where on the terminals for wires please my goal is to run 4 wires to my load Center then probably won't run out my circuits from there thank you in advance I appreciate you

[@Akdale777]

Hi Todd, did you buy locally or did you order online? From?

[@todddunn945]

I bought on line from the Alt E store in Massachusetts. Buying locally is not an option where I live (small rural town in Maine).

[@Akdale777]

@@todddunn945 thank you! I may in the same boat as im a little out of the way in Alaska.

[@todddunn945]

@@Akdale777 The main thing I would look for in choosing an online supplier other than that they are reputable is shipping charges since these low frequency inverters are heavy. I think mine weighs about 80 pounds which would make it expensive to ship.

[@saeedhossain6099]

When you connected the inverter to your home, did you have to set it up between the main panel and a critical loads panel? Or is there the option to install it directly to a single panel with just 1 split phase connection?

[@todddunn945]

I have it wired to a 10 circuit critical loads panel. I could have wired it into the main panel, but then I would have risked back feeding the grid. This is not a grid tie inverter.

[@Danielsoto9095]

Hi. I got my 4024. Is there a way that the 4024 can switch from off grid to the grid but with out entering to the charge stage mode? Im off grig almost all the time but dont want to discharge my 460ah bank less than 35%, is there a way? Please help. Thnks

[@todddunn945]

I am not an expert about this since I do not have the optional system control panel. For switching from off grid to grid power without enabling the charger you need the optional system control panel where there are two settings that you can change that may accomplish this. First there is "Auto Charge Enable". It appears that switching to the "Enable" setting turns off automatic charging. Alternatively you can use the "Charge Block" start and stop functions to set the times when the charger will not come on to 24 hours a day. As far as limiting battery discharge goes, you can use the "low battery cutout" and "low battery cutout delay" functions to turn the inverter's AC power off when the battery voltage drops below a specified voltage (low battery cutout) for a set period of time (Low battery cutout delay) . What voltage you want to set that at depends on the type of batteries you have and the typical loads. With a 24 volt lead acid battery system 35% discharged is about 24.6 volts for a rested battery with no load. Under load the battery voltage at 35% discharged will vary and you will need to experiment a bit. A more precise method is to install a battery monitor like one of the Victron battery monitor and use its internal relay to open a power relay in the positive cable between the batteries and the inverter. You can set the opening of that relay where ever you want. Components to accomplish this could be a Victron BMV-712 and a Blue Seas Remote battery switch.

[@neomatrix2722]

I am looking to wire this exact inverter to my load Center do you have any pictures

[@todddunn945]

I guess it depends on what you mean by wire it to your load center. Are you off grid, or are you using the inverter for a backup power system. The wiring is very different. Mine is a back up system. I installed Reliance 10 circuit manual transfer switch. I put the 30 amp plug on the front of the transfer switch so I could simply plug the inverter in or plug in a generator if I wanted. There are videos showing that install. I am not off grid, so I also wired the AC in from the panel to the inverter from a 30 amp 240VAC breaker I put in the panel. That allows me to use the inverters internal fast transfer switch if I think ahead and turn the inverter and the transfer switch circuits on before a power outage (i.e., at the beginning of a big storm that might cause an outage). Depending on where you are located and the local codes etc. You may have to hire an electrician to connect things to your panel. Here we don't have electrical inspections so I was able to do it myself - I worked as a union electrician years a go so I do know what I am doing.

[@neomatrix2722]

@@todddunn945 I completely live off-grid so no inspections and I'll be doing the wiring myself just looking for a few tips side question today I measure the output voltage at the first outlet and I'm only help putting 108 V AC not sure why this is so low it should be between 115 and 125 is there some way to adjust the voltage or is my inverter broken

[@todddunn945]

@@neomatrix2722Off the top of my head I don't know if you can adjust the output voltage. My unit is in default mode and has always worked fine.

[@neomatrix2722]

@@todddunn945 let me give you some clarity my inverter is also working fine and in default mode I just find it abnormal that the output is at 108 volt AC it's my understanding that's too low and will damage electronics I just ran the same test with the multimeter on my gas generator Honda and even with a 100 ft extension cord it outputs 122 volt AC now the inverter it's length of cable is only about fifteen feet to the wall outlet can you measure your output voltage what do you read

[@sed6]

What would be your 2nd choice, one that has controls built in?

[@todddunn945]

My second choice was a MagnaSine from Magnum energy. However, it also requires an add on remote for programming beyond the default values AND it is $500 more expensive.

[@Mikeyfix]

Is the voltage from the generator 120ac or 120/220ac and how big of generator would you recomend

[@todddunn945]

The inverter is split phase so both 120 and 240 VAC. How big depends on what you want to run, so I can't answer that without knowing the details of your situation.

[@kabirumuhammed2157]

Hi I bought the 4024 120/240 split phase inverter, i am from a region where the AC input is 240. how can i connect the inverter to accept the 240v and give me a 240 output and also charge my batteries?

[@todddunn945]

Unfortunately if your normal household voltage is 240 VAC, I believe that you have bought the wrong inverter. You have the North American model. You need the 240 VAC (European/Asian, etc.) inverter. You should contact Schneider or the dealer that sold you the inverter to see if there is anything you can do. Beyond that I cannot help you.

[@kabirumuhammed2157]

@@todddunn945 Thank you Todd for your kind reply, does that mean i can't use it here. or can i still use it with solar panels and still get an output of 240v

[@todddunn945]

@@kabirumuhammed2157 As a north american I am not at all familiar with non north american electrical systems. Basically I do not think you can run your 230 VAC appliances with this inverter. Schneider does make a 230 VAC output inverter. Also unless you have changed it, the SW 4024 120/240 split phase inverter is 60 hz, not 50 hz. Sorry I can't be of more help.

[@glennmadsen9259]

@@kabirumuhammed2157 no you can’t use it sell it and get the 240 single phase one for your country

[@earthenergyhex]

what other units would you consider buying if you had to do it over again?

[@todddunn945]

I would consider a Magnum energy MagnaSine, but you need a remote control panel for that inverter too and the inverter is more money. Another option would be one of the AIMS UL listed inverters. That said, my Schneider is still working perfectly after 26 months, so other than the need for an expensive remote control panel to program it I am completely satisfied with the inverter.

[@earthenergyhex]

@@todddunn945 thank you for responding

[@bambino3162]

My Conext SW Solar Hybrid Inverter System (120/240V) is giving me (it has new renogy gel batteries) a undervoltage alarm and even when not used it suffers a 15 to 20 % discharge, Can anyone help?

[@todddunn945]

I would contact Schneider customer service. Other than that I have no idea.

[@rebeltoharriganjr6158]

Thank you, but we have two because we will have split A/C units (20, we currently have only one. We are off grid and i live in the US VI , my battery bank is currently 1565 amp and i plan to dd another Tesla module 60 when i receive my income tax return, we are still waiting on 2018 here from the government . Our utility power sucks worst than rotten eggs, base rate is 39.5 for the first 250 kW and then it increase to 45 cents there after. We have frequent interruptions, the second week of November this year we had the island of St,Thomas and St.John completely blacked out from 1100 AM to 1830 hour that afternoon, the next day we had another for about 4 ours also. I use a Yamaha 3,000 watt generator daily now since we are not get any more than 12.5 daily from my system. no sun and the planet has shifted further south.

[@todddunn945]

Air conditioning definitely requires power. Here in Maine we don't have AC. You have big battery bank. Our power is cheaper than yours ($0.18) per kilowatt, but we lose power quite frequently since we are at the end of the road on an island.

[@diy-bj2ed]

How has this inverter been over the period of ownership

[@todddunn945]

I have had it for year and a half now and it works as it should. No issues at all.

[@glennmadsen9259]

Did you get the Combox yet?

[@todddunn945]

No, I have no need for it. I will buy one if I decide to upgrade my battery bank to Lithium batteries.

[@thhillbillyinventor105]

@@todddunn945 I used mine with lithium batteries with the scp for the longest . I have the 4048 . You have to set the charge paramaters correctly . I charge mine to 98 percent charged to a 15 percent depth of discharge most of the time .

[@todddunn945]

@@thhillbillyinventor105 I am close to buying some lithium batteries and will have to buy the SCP when I do that. I am glad to hear your system is working well.

[@thhillbillyinventor105]

@@todddunn945 yeah you will def want the ability to set proper charge settings for those lithium batteries . I actually just got 2 more of the 10kw batteries just am trying to make time to move everything now . I'll throw up another vid when I get that done . 30 kw storage .

[@todddunn945]

@@thhillbillyinventor105 I am looking to add either 7.5 KwH or 10 KwH to my battery bank in the form of a parallel lithium battery bank. I will either buy an SCP, or, since I currently have lead acid batteries with 4-5 years left in them, a 24 volt DC:DC battery charger to go between the lead acid and lithium battery banks. If I do that the charger in the 4024 can charge the lead acid batteries along with solar and the lithium can charge from the lead acid bank via the DC:DC charger. I did that on my boat and it worked well.

[@rebeltoharriganjr6158]

i have two in parallel.

[@todddunn945]

Wow! You must have a high demand system. I have concluded that my house doesn't even need the single 4,000 watt inverter. I could get away with the 2,400 watt model. Of course I do not have my eletcric stove or my electric dryer connected to the inverter.

[@scheffman]

I purchased the 4024 3 years ago and it has definitely been a headache. The software has a mind of its own regardless your settings. It charges the batteries when it wants, has a 50w load itself (expensive) and fried a $1300 lifepo4 battery.I do not reccomend this inverter.

[@scheffman]

Let me add, it has kept the power on during 2 outages but has caused 9

[@todddunn945]

I have had mine for three years with zero problems. I will be adding LiFePO4 batteries after the first of the year, but they will be charged by solar. I have never used the inverter's charge function. Sorry to hear you have had issues.

[@scheffman]

@@todddunn945 Keep me up to date on the battery addition. Thanks for the reply

[@todddunn945]

@@scheffman I will do a video on the setup. I am going to do it in two stages adding 10 kWh each time. I currently have lead acid and the two battery banks will be connected only with a DC:DC charger.