Sculpting Miniatures - Adding Bulk to the Figure

[@eetennak966]

First: I love your logo- awesome idea. Second: The idea of preserving and protecting the figure/miniature in a glass is great. thanks!

[@TomMasonSculptor]

Double thanks!

[@AdamBoyes]

Just wanted to share my appreciation of your videos. Really getting a lot from them. Thanks.

[@claytonmcclain182]

first time on your site, and wanting doing this, but I must say might be the last, think I might just watch you build it, and just buy mine, wow love your work.

[@TomMasonSculptor]

+Clayton McClain thank you very much!

[@paulhowes1396]

It`s been a real pleasure to view and learn a little bit of something extra. Beano Boy

[@synthinator]

Thanks for the tutorials. I create my own miniature Halloween village buildings and always wanted to add figurines to the line. I have been watching and studying your videos endlessly. You are a real inspiration and I hope to one day be half as good as you.

[@TomMasonSculptor]

Thanks Joey! Keep it up.

[@MultiKerensky]

Loving these tutorials. cant wait to try it out.

[@Zarnowski_Sculpture]

lol. yes love the jars. have a full collection of them. some times it loos so bizar wit all the minis inside but nice.

[@Armorcreations1]

Thanks for doing these tutorials! after the greenstuff cures do you bake the fimo between sessions of sculpting or "wet" all the way thru? Thanks again!

[@TomMasonSculptor]

+Robert Merrick I do NOT bake the FIMO after putting down the initial layer, or after applying any other details. I only bake the sculpt when I am finished sculpting with the FIMO. If there are more details to add after the sculpt is baked, I add those on with putty or a special mix of putty and FIMO I use. Hope that helps!

[@TheGamerZapocalypse]

How much wiggle room you will have with the anatomy not needing to be accurate or even done depends on how much clothing and armor the piece has to compensate for the lack of it. Even so, it's always best to get at least the highlights or key points of the proportions dialed in and looking correct and going from there. But knowing where that fudge zone of anatomy is can be very useful, and it's different for every sculpt of course.

[@COLORPAPERPRINCESS]

i am in love with your channel! :)

[@TomMasonSculptor]

+colorpaper princess (colorpaperprincess) thanks!

[@oldbaldfatman2766]

April 21, 2018---Thanks for the video, but it wasn't until now I realized you were using polymer clay for your figures. For some reason, thought it was some 2 part epoxy putty like Milliput. Until last month, never hear of polymer clay and then started watching videos of those who do miniature furniture for doll houses. Got back into modeling in late 2016, but going for 1/35th scale zombie/apocalypse dioramas. See that this clay will save me a lot of time in making parts that I can make silicone copies of, then resin ones. Working on modifying my 2nd figure using Milliput and it's NOT as easy as the videos show it to be. The first figure....well, he only had half a head because he was to be wearing helmet and I wanted him as a civilian with long hair. That attempt had him looking like he had a one tenacled octopus on his head! So it's going to be awhile before I start sculpting figures with clay.

[@minitzonthesun]

Another great and informative one. Ever since I started using Fimo, I find myself using my fingers and spit a lot more. It seems to smooth better than GS for me. I have spent too much time researching anatomy and not actually sculpting anatomy, I must learn by doing. Thanks again for these videos!

[@JunktoFunProjects]

Thanks for posting this.

[@TomMasonSculptor]

+Luan Nguyen no problem. Hope it was helpful.

[@vonries]

You're very talented. I know I'l never even try anything like this but itty has been very interesting. Thank you. One thing though, wouldn't it be easier to use a wing nut to hold your blocks together? Then you could snug it up whenever you needed to.

[@TomMasonSculptor]

You are absolutely right about the wing nut. However I like the lower profile or a regular nut that doesn’t poke into my hand.

[@vonries]

@@TomMasonSculptor fair enough. I guess if it ever became a problem for anyone they could always use a unlock nut to keep it from working loose. I doubt that's much of a problem though, because I doubt there is much vibration to worry about.

[@matthewjs11]

love the tutorials man

[@TomMasonSculptor]

Thanks Matt. I have a quick one going up today before getting back to my regular schedule next week.

[@ma.luisadeguzman572]

Interesting Thanks for great video .Is it advisable to use heat gun if you don't bake the miniature sir?

[@TomMasonSculptor]

Yes, you can absolutely use a heat gun to help set a poly clay sculpt. I would still recommend doing a full bake once you're totally finished sculpting.

[@MahmurLemur]

Hello, I love your tutorials and I just started making miniatures using milliput. Can you make a detailed female face tutorial if you haven't. Thanks.

[@TomMasonSculptor]

Thank you! I actually have done a female head tutorial a LONG time ago (before it became The Mini Sculpting Super Show). kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4bUdo2neMl4jck

[@caprikar21]

Such a great series, Tom. Thank you for doing these. At some point I'd be interested in your thoughts on clay vs putty. Are you bulking the figure up with clay rather than putty because of the additional work time that clay allows?

[@TomMasonSculptor]

Great discussion topic. I plan on doing some timelapse miniature sculpting in the future. This will be a perfect voice over to do during that. Thanks Tom!

[@smart.phone.user.]

@@TomMasonSculptor Hello, did you ever make a video discussing clay vs putty? Thank you

[@TomMasonSculptor]

@@smart.phone.user. not an all in one video. But I put together a guide that talks about this and points you to the pertinent videos. sculptminisnow.ck.page

[@smart.phone.user.]

@@TomMasonSculptor Thank you for the quick response!

[@23edsa]

Do you bake the initial level? I tried baking it when I assumed the greenstuff was already cured, and it cracked all over the surface

[@TomMasonSculptor]

I only bake at the very end. The main reason for that is that it's hard to get new clay to adhere to baked clay.

[@kamakrazee8144]

Hey, thanks for the video series, they're great! I've been buying the materials you've mentioned in these videos, in preparation to start sculpting small crates and barrels and yard tools, weapons etc.., to go along with some small tabletop buildings around 28mm I'm going to make ( I'm trying to start a business with the buildings, making them in resin) , and I was wondering about a couple of things I've seen in your videos so far. One was to do with your yellow sticky tack you mentioned. I've looked on amazon and ebay and can't find the yellow kind, is there a website you know of that might have it? I've seen some blu tack, but it actually says it's white which you said you didn't like as much so I'd prefer to use the yellow as well, so that was the first question, the second question is... I'm wondering how you made that miniature holder? The 2 blocks with a bolt through it and a nut on the other side. I found a small block piece on a website that sales miniature related things, not sure if I can post a comment with a link to the website without it blocking my whole comment, but here is the website link directly to the block **EDIT** **removed link, they no longer sell it** I'm wondering if I could use that? and if I can, I was wondering what kind of material that is that is directly underneath your miniature where the 2 wires from it's feet are clamped? It looks like some melted candle wax or maybe some putty spread out and dried? Reason I wonder is cause I'd like to make a setup just like you got, and if that material keeps the miniature from sticking to the block while sculpting it, then that's what I'd like to use as well to make sure I do it right. If you can help with these questions I'd greatly appreciate it. Sorry for the long comment, I was debating on whether to post it for a few days, but decided it was the only way I'd be able to find out the information cause I didn't know if you would mention it in a future video. Thanks.

[@TomMasonSculptor]

***** it's great to hear your enthusiasm. Many of your questions will be answered in future videos but I'll try and hit the highlights so you can keep moving forward. Yellow Sticky Tack: I haven't been able to find it recently either. Blue sticky tack from Elmers seems to be the same as the yellow I used to use. Basically any name brand stuff should be good to use. Miniature Holder: The material on top of the holder is a layer of greenstuff. How to make it is a much longer explanation. Perfect for a future video. For now I'd suggest using cork for a holder. Thanks again for watching and taking the time to comment.

[@kamakrazee8144]

Tom Mason Thanks for the reply and all the information you share :)

[@Lachlanrobertson24]

Can you remove the sculpt from the handle once it has been baked? I am about to embark on a mini sculpting marathon (creating a warhammer style army) and will want to transfer the minis to plastic bases. Thanks for the amazing videos!

[@TomMasonSculptor]

Absolutely. That's one of the reasons I use this stand. You can pop the sculpt off by slipping a knife between the feet and the base. And if for some reason you need to put the mini back on, you can clamp the wires back in for more stable sculpting.

[@Lachlanrobertson24]

@@TomMasonSculptor Thank you so much for this reply!

[@ikkiiiieee]

let's say I did the bulking step, sealed it in the jar for 2 weeks and then come back to it. Will freshly kneaded clay then stick to this? Or do I need to do any kind of preparatory work?

[@TomMasonSculptor]

You should have no problem. I routinely let my minis sit for that long. In fact, I left one for over a year (it might have even been 2 years!). The initial clay was a little dry and hard to work with, but I had no problems adding more.

[@elaineromao9333]

Excelente seus trab parabéns.

[@TomMasonSculptor]

Thanks!

[@PulsarTubeMotionPicture]

awesome!

[@HungryHungryShoggoth]

Sorry, I know this video is old now but I've got a question. Would all of these methods work as well on a 28mm scale? I would love to be able to make my own custom D&D minis

[@TomMasonSculptor]

Absolutely. The only major difference is the measurements of your armatures would be different. Good luck!

[@peteENpl]

What re your figures made of? And once dry, is it stable and resistant to damages?

[@christopherbragg6643]

This question is pretty much covered in earlier segments of the series. Putties cure naturally, the Clay needs to be baked to cure. Both have a durable hard finish once set.

[@davidcollins2648]

How about a video showing how to sculpt figures to fit on horses? Forgive me if you've already done such but it seems to be a gap in the hobby instructional videos.

[@TomMasonSculptor]

That is a great suggestion. I'm adding it to the list of backlogged ideas!

[@EC-qe3bj]

Do i bake it after i puta thin layer of fimo on the greenstuff?

[@TomMasonSculptor]

NOPE. Bake it when you are completely finished sculpting everything.

[@leoroam2770]

You use polimer clay for making

[@quintonio-Gaming]

Do you think someone could follow your method with polymer oven-bake clay rather than procreate?

[@TomMasonSculptor]

What specific method are you referring to? You can’t apply clay directly to the wire if that’s what you’re referring too.

[@quintonio-Gaming]

@@TomMasonSculptor precisely what I was reffering to, thanks!

[@joem2745]

Daniel 2:43 43 And whereas thou sawest iron mixed with miry clay, they shall mingle themselves with the seed of men: but they shall not cleave one to another, even as iron is not mixed with clay.

[@yargoreis2326]

You sculpt to order?

[@TomMasonSculptor]

+Yargo Reis not anymore. I used to, but now all my sculpting is done full time for MegaCon Games. Thanks!

[@yargoreis2326]

Tranks you

[@jhonjairoserna2250]

quisiera ver las figuras que esta haciendo en el video terminadas para saber si es verdad

[@peteENpl]

Polymer clay?

[@TomMasonSculptor]

Yup! FIMO Professional.

[@claytonmcclain182]

wow auto spell killed that, need to read what I type more. ugh. u are good.

[@jessicagalvin4598]

How would you keep a female figure looking feminine in full plate?

[@TomMasonSculptor]

In reality, a female in plate mail would look no different than a male. However, when you want to emphasize elements of a character, there are things you can do to accentuate those details. What I would suggest is altering the shape of the plate mail. Things like narrowing the waist, and giving room near the top of the breatplate for breasts. You don’t have to sculpt metal breasts either. It’s more about letting the shape of the female body come through. So think about all the elements that make a female stand out as such, and make subtle adjustments to the armor that all those elements to stand out. You’d be surprised how much that helps without having to resort to silly costume choice like the chainmail bikini.

[@psychicwriterz]

great but sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo many ads per video :(

[@TomMasonSculptor]

That's KZbin. I've never changed any settings from the original where there was supposed to be one in the beginning. I think it's their way of trying to get people to sign up for their subscription.

[@chiptuner4990]

No problem dude I am sorry for the negative comment they just really annoyed me on the day. Amazing work and thanks for the awesome tutorials :)

[@GothGoblinNecoArc]

Tu

[@GothGoblinNecoArc]

Ty*

[@AaaaNinja]

When will people finally figure out that shirts don't ACTUALLY hug the underside of breasts? Really?? Even though observation is always emphasized.

[@TomMasonSculptor]

Probably never. It’s easy for artists to sculpt or draw what they “think” something looks like. Reference is much more important than any of us typically will admit.

[@badhammermotorworks810]

Hey Tom. I'm not sure if I missed something but why do you switch from Greenstuff to Fimo?

[@TomMasonSculptor]

I was never that crazy about sculpting in epoxy putties. To be honest, I only worked in that material because I “had” to. As time went on, moldmakers got better about molding poly clay and I jumped over with glee :) I actually don’t mind sculpting entire minis in putty these days. It can actually be a nice change of pace. But I’m always reminded why I prefer polyclay.

[@badhammermotorworks810]

So, Greenstuff is an epoxy putty and Fimo is a poly clay? I think I really meant, why do you cover the armature in greenstuff and then do the main sculpt in Fimo. I am not sure about that bit. Is it because once Greenstuff goes hard, fresh Greenstuff won't really adhere to it?

[@TomMasonSculptor]

I see. Green stuff will stick to anything. The reason I put green stuff down first and then apply poly clay before the green stuff cures is because polyclay is not sticky and won’t adhere to anything but itself.