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[@The.Doctor.Venkman]

Very interesting session. Good to see the progress on this and thank you.

[@rjordans]

The input side of buck converters can also be quite noisy drawing nice pulsed blocks of current into the inductor. Adding a small input filter (series L plus extra C on both sides) can really help keeping noise down.

[@OrbiterElectronics]

Great video Steve, was interesting to see how you worked around the issues you had in this one. Cheers mate John

[@steveng5503]

Yes, very good! BIG 👍 from me. I did have a couple of questions but you covered those towards end of video.

[@dosgos]

Great video! Learned a lot here.

[@ats89117]

Great video. If you have time, it would be interesting to test the cleaners against straight 91% isopropyl alcohol. I've been using this preheated to 50c in my 3 liter, $55, 120W ultrasonic cleaner for 5 minutes and it seems to do an excellent job of removing RMA flux residue without requiring me to pay exorbitant amounts for cleaner fluids.

[@nunogarcia9446]

I would also enjoy watching that comparison. Also, if I recall correctly, Mr. Steve is waiting for a ultrasonic cleaner. Would make a nice, informative video. Edit: it has been received

[@robertcalkjr.8325]

Thanks Steve! That's very interesting. I was always afraid to put boards into an US-cleaner but many people do and it doesn't seem to hurt anything.

[@NickyNiclas]

I put mine in the dishwasher and dry them in the oven. Can't say if its a bad idea or not but it hasn't failed me yet.

[@dosgos]

Hope no chemicals remain in dishwasher!

[@NickyNiclas]

@@dosgos I use lead free solder and water soluble flux plus I do it rather infrequently so I think it's fine but I get the concern.

[@robertcalkjr.8325]

NickyNiclas I just clean mine the old fashioned way. I would like to get a nice US-cleaner though. The one that I have is just a little cheap one.

[@Tim_Small]

Interesting video, thank! Did you find any efficiency data for this part? Some boisterous gentleman recently made off with my aging DIY 3x Luxeon-III bike lights (I built them in about 2005), so I'm plotting my replacements at the moment. Being battery powered, I have half an eye on the efficiency. Tentative plans are for a 25v max (6s lithium Ion) pack with Cree XP-G3 LEDs.

[@sdgelectronics]

If efficiency is the main goal, I'd go for an LT3518 which can get close to 95%

[@GlennPierce]

Great. When you design a board like this do you just draw it up and get the boards made because of your experience or do you try to breadboard everything first ?

[@sdgelectronics]

Almost always straight onto a PCB. Any bits that are of concern I tend to simulate in LTspice first.

[@tylerufen]

that is one hell of a spark gap....

[@GOWTHAMKRISHGowthamShanmugaraj]

What is the reason for the pores you put on the PCB?

[@antonmilosevic]

Those are called vias. You usually use them to connect traces from different layers of the board. The ones that caught your eye are for the purpose of thermals and increased current carrying capabilities. They are also often referred to as via stitches.

[@yellowcrescent]

Have always been curious about your explosion-proof Fluke meter. Was it just an ebay find, or do you work in an industry that requires them? Have never seen anybody else with one before, but they do have that cool red color. lol.

[@samimsk8377]

Dear Sir, Can we convert LED Flood Street Light's non-dimmable driver to dimmable driver 60 voltage and 1 Amp DC to DC buck converter concept? I'm trying, but the LED Flood Panel is flicking. Please give me any solution and thanks 😊

[@thomassui4879]

Hello, how long its taking you to get the FP7103 LED Driver? thanks

[@Mr.Leeroy]

Very interesting project and series, but I have to say that by keeping CC controller far away from the load you are getting into power transfer losses area which will decrease system efficiency pretty substantially (at least when talking about LED lighting electric efficiency). Try to calculate losses for your own case.