SDG

[@mariushmedias]

@18:00 You could have used pci-e x1 connector and have your boards made with edge connector and sitting like low profile cards. Use two (one on each side) for better stability or maybe see the low profile bracket suggestion below. The connectors are cheap. as low as 20-25 cents if you buy 100 and there's plenty of pins. You could optionally 3d print a flexible plastic bit to go over the lip of the pci-e connector and lock the card in place (that's why it's there after all If the final product is gonna be in a case, you could install low profile brackets to your cards and screw them to the case... for ex. search e bay for "Low Profile Bracket For M1015 9260-8i 9211 9261 9271" If you have the boards sitting like extension cards then the relay could be positioned even higher (away from main board) and from the other plugged cards and you could possibly add cuts in the pcb for higher distances.

[@jontscott]

Wow, this project is really coming together. Looks awesome! Excited to see more as it progresses. Interesting to learn about wetting current... I have had switches oxide over but I thought it was because I did not use them enough, normally switching them a few times clears up the signal in my case.

[@rogerfurer2273]

Cool project, developing nicely. I also enjoyed your constant current videos especially with the PIC33. Am currently developing my own boost circuit using dsPIC30F4012 on solderless breadboard to drive string of 8 to 12 White LEDs for a dimmable ring light on a camera... I know it's an older device and all, but I have used them in the past and 40-pins gives me plenty to work with. Keep the videos coming. Great stuff! Thanks

[@sdgelectronics]

I didn't get around to finishing that LED driver project. I might revisit in the future. Thanks

[@kwinzman]

Where did you learn all that? I would have never known to put a resistor to create 8mA current so that no oxide layer on the switch forms.

[@mariushmedias]

@20:00 and @5:30 had a second look at the video today... all those components for a led current limit ? 20 cents (100pcs) gets you AL5890 from Diodes Inc, part code AL5890-10P1-13DICT-ND on Digikey ... also available in 15,20..45mA and also in SOT89 for better heat dissipation. It's 7v min, 400v max, 10mA ... Turn on voltage typical 5v, max 7v + voltage drop on led, so it would work great for that output led and you could probably also reuse this part for the optocoupler if 10mA is enough for it. You're saving space on pcb and reduce your bom, no zener diode to turn on led from 7-8v up, part will do that for you. You say the voltage to optos is 9v or higher, that's perfect for this part as well. If you don't mind the maximum 40v input voltage, you also have BCR420UFD at 23 cents (100pcs) which also gives you the option to adjust current with external resistor (it's preset at 10mA if no resistor is added). It needs at least 1.2mA to work and seems to go up to 350mA. You use so much space on board and need to add those pnp parts to your BOM to save maybe 5-10 cents?

[@sdgelectronics]

It's actually just the BC856B dual transistor, 180R resistor and 100pF capacitor for the current limit, so cheaper than the AL5890 and some other similar devices that I looked at. It obviously is simpler though as you say and I can't remember why I dismissed it previously. The NSI45020AT1G is also another option.

[@111chicane]

I've recently purchased some BRC401RE in SOT-343 from LCSC @ 18 Cents for a hundred. Very happy with it. Very small package and no externals. Absolutely agree, it's well worthed! Been looking at NSI50010YT1G @ 7 cents for 150, SOD-123, 10mA up to 50V. Those, I believe are the best option if you don't care about the board space and automotive/industrial grade, only parts count, cost savings and simplicity.

[@The.Doctor.Venkman]

Really enjoyed tonight's video

[@robertcalkjr.8325]

Thanks Steve! The project is coming along well!

[@claytonmorgan8625]

wow!!! it looks awesome. keep up the great work 👍👏

[@randamoses8594]

Really appreciate your content, thanks a lot

[@psychoja]

Hi, just a quick check. On Layer 2 (Power plane), those 2 bottlenecks between SW1/7-Segment display and 7-Segment (R16)/bottom part traces of Module 2, isn't that a bit of an issue?

[@fernandomaresca3042]

Hi! Will you keep on with the home automatition project? It'll be great.

[@sdgelectronics]

Yes, I have some of these boards working, but I plan to link it in to Home Assistant

[@fernandomaresca3042]

@@sdgelectronics That's a great idea! Looking forward to it. Thanks for sharing and for the videos.

[@JasonLeaman]

Awesome Video! Keep up that work! Following !! & subscribed !

[@gionag]

BRAVO !

[@mblazevi]

Great video!

[@sidharthap]

What PCB software package have you used here?

[@sdgelectronics]

Proteus from Labcenter Electronics

[@rkakaash]

is there a link where i can download the schematic ...steve

[@sdgelectronics]

When I've finished the project, I'll be documenting on the website.

[@rkakaash]

@@sdgelectronics thanks that is nice to hear...

[@rvamerongen]

​@@sdgelectronics Hi, I see that your website is a while under construction; any time schedule on that to get it up and running again? I would love to see the schematic; the value's on the schematic are somewhat blur, is there a way to get them? I'am very grateful about your way to explain the things what you'r doing, you do make it very understandable.

[@MarcoFranceschini1971]

Burden voltage...

[@krishna34674]

Could have been a 2 layer PCB...

[@AtlasReburdened]

You should send him the 2 layer version you put together.

[@111chicane]

He tried to explain why it is not 2 layer. Somebody didn't listen...