SDG

PCBWay 3D Printing and Fabrication: www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyp...
Picoscope 5000 Series: www.picotech.com/oscilloscope...
Support the Channel with Patreon: / sdgelectronics
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SolderKing UK Made Solder: solderking.com/
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SolderKing UK Made solder available at Kaisertech:
UK JBC Distributor kaisertech.co.uk/ Discount Code: "SDG5"
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0:00 PCBs from PCBWay
1:29 PCB Assembly
3:39 Getting hot!
4:32 Testing with no Supercap
8:24 Adding 0.47F Capacitor
11:00 Conclusions
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3D Printers:
Ender 3 S1 Pro on AliExpress: bit.ly/3Tfiz22
Geeetech Mizar S on AliExpress: bit.ly/3MN0c0M
Artillery Genius at Banggood: bit.ly/32iG2dv
Geeetech Mizar S on AliExpress: bit.ly/3MN0c0M
Geeetech A20M at Banggood: bit.ly/2YooVll
Geeetech A20M at AliExpress: bit.ly/3oBqo2I
Geeetech PLA+ Filament: amzn.to/3gelSX1
Ender 3 V2 at Banggood: bit.ly/36lN8Ny
Ender 3 V2 at AliExpress: bit.ly/3j1C2CO
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Soldering Tools and Equipment:
Aixun T420D On AliExpress: bit.ly/3cQXXhh
Aixun T3B on Aliexpress: bit.ly/3CHerj1
Aixun T3B on Aliexpress: bit.ly/3cDkWIY
Aixun T3A on Aliexpress: bit.ly/30LDcgG
AiXun T3A on Aliexpress: bit.ly/2VdRVhU
Yihua 853A Preheater: www.banggood.com/custlink/DGD...
Youyue 946C Hotplate at Banggood: bit.ly/2MuLwqM
Youyue 946C on AliExpress: bit.ly/374v3Tp
Solder Paste: bit.ly/2E1P5jR
Solder Flux: bit.ly/2MQn7we
Quick 857DW+ Hot Air Station: bit.ly/2OWDvf4
T12 Soldering Station: www.banggood.com/custlink/3KK...
AC Version: www.banggood.com/custlink/3GK...
T12 Iron Tips: www.banggood.com/custlink/3DG...
Daniu Tip Cleaner: bit.ly/31VHwWM
KSGER T12-BCM3 Tip: bit.ly/2xgYXCQ
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Microscope Equipment:
Eakins Barlow Lenses: bit.ly/3aBY5tR
Eakins Black Microscope: bit.ly/2VEcYaW
Eakins Camera Microscope: bit.ly/2x86hnT
Camera Adaptor for Microscopes: bit.ly/2KBZQMQ
Amscope Microscope Head (US): amzn.to/2YmZWNx
Amscope Trinocular Microscope (US): amzn.to/2YdBE8k
Amscope Trinocular Microscope (UK): amzn.to/2V8w9Gh
Swift SS41-WF20 Binocular Microscope US: amzn.to/2VLWEpb
Swift SS41-WF20 Binocular Microscope UK: amzn.to/2GYGYFV
Visit my website: www.sdgelectronics.co.uk/
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#ElectronicsCreators

[@sdgelectronics]

PCBWay 3D Printing and Fabrication: www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/ Picoscope 5000 Series: www.picotech.com/oscilloscope/5000/flexible-resolution-oscilloscope Support the Channel with Patreon: www.patreon.com/sdgelectronics

[@therealb888]

Hi can you also share what thermal cam you used in this video?

[@SatyajitRoy2048]

You can also try HiLink miniature power brick. It's quite small in size and idle power consumption is very low and it's isolated. May be just a little more space than the input dropping cap.

[@Chris_Grossman]

The blue solder mask looks good

[@kissingfrogs]

Thanks for sharing. Was curious to see the actual Zener Temperature once the circuit had a load.

[@brianwood5220]

Coming along nicely Steve. Thanks for sharing.

[@964tractorboy]

Enjoyed the video, plus the nutrition advice!

[@dcallan812]

Really nice board, the silver text is nice and great video 2x👍

[@andymouse]

Nice, I do enjoy your scientific approach to these circuits also I have been using text on the copper layer to highlight stuff for ages now and never had a problem with readability....cheers.

[@TheEmbeddedHobbyist]

We had text on the PC layer back in 76, but i expect it goes as far back as the first pcb's

[@andymouse]

@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist Indeed, I have one of my first home made PCB's and of course I wrote 'Mousey' on it but no bloody date !

[@fredflintstone1]

Cheese!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@andymouse]

@@fredflintstone1 Squeak!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@TheEmbeddedHobbyist]

@@andymouse Cheeak or Squese !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@laurentcadet6523]

I have never enjoyed seeing someone soldering as much as in this video with this music !! The transition at the beginning is awesome ! It made me want to do soldering while shaking my head up and down !! #solderingVibe

[@matusekpetr7806]

Just want to mention for others if it has not been mentioned previously - That yellow capacitor should be definitelly X2 type and those type of modern X2 capacitors tend to loose their capacitance during their lifetime - they are common failing devices for example in old diswashers and other appliances.

[@paulcohen1555]

I've never found in old equipment an X2 capacitor with more than half of it's initial capacitance! (Luckily they affected only RFI filtering)

[@peterjones2411]

class y is safer and more reliable

[@paulcohen1555]

@@peterjones2411 But don't have this capacitance values, they're much lower.

[@T2D.SteveArcs]

It's not directly across the mains in this application, rather its fuse protected and in series with a very light load

[@matusekpetr7806]

@@T2D.SteveArcs This is just misunderstanding how the circuit works. From that capacitor point of wiew it is across mains, or lets say it sees almost full mains voltage, and the current is maximum possible using capacitive reactance formula.

[@TheEmbeddedHobbyist]

We used to put the part and version number on the top copper layer, the assembly and version were on the silkscreen. As you can easy change the assembly version by changing component values, but it’s not easy to change the copper on the assembly line. I think i'd like to have a good reset circuit on that desing, as that raise time looks like the micro can be in a gray power area for quite some time. i'd want the reset held until the supply is nice and close to the 3v3 or 5V which ever one is powering the uC.

[@sdgelectronics]

Yeah, I didn't check the details on the Wio-E5. The PIC has BOR and PUT enabled

[@TheEmbeddedHobbyist]

@@sdgelectronics That rise time is so slow I don't think I’d rely on the chips internal reset circuitry; they are often just about OK when the dc supply power up is within spec. But a supply with the turn on ramp measured in pico-weeks would be pushing it a bit. 🙂 But as it’s for garden light use maybe the extra cost of a supply supervisor ic is a bit over kill, but if there are two circuits running off 2 different supplies. Then the one on the 3v3 will come out of reset while the one on the 5V will still be held in reset! This could be a start-up problem waiting to bite you in the rear. Still it's nice to have a circuit to think about. Not have worked for about 3 1/2 years now, i think i kind of miss it. 🙂looking at circuits that is, not the having to work bit.

[@fredflintstone1]

Woof!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@sdgelectronics]

@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist You're right, it needs a threshold detector based on something that remains stable - a simple reference and transistor-based solution would work. However I think this will not be the final solution anyway.

[@TheEmbeddedHobbyist]

@@fredflintstone1 Come on fred i know you can type more than this, bark!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. ;-)

[@allthegearnoidea6752]

As always another great video and very well explained. Have to say I would rather see a power brick but I operated in a high cost market and would never implement a capacitor dropper. Still I’m not going to beat you up as I have designed several capacitor dropper in industrial products. These have zero advantages beyond cost.

[@ivolol]

Is one of the possible options: recycle old USB 5V wallwart/adapter? :D Certainly wins on cost/environmental aspects. Just have to find one that DiodesGoneWild wouldn't give a failing mark on...

[@sdgelectronics]

Absolutely, but I want to make one instead. Flyback SMPSU coming up in a few weeks

[@ivolol]

@@sdgelectronics if you end up making a comparison / conclusion video, it might be nice to include some 'half-decent' charger in as an extra point of comparison to your created ones, see where it wins and loses.

[@matusekpetr7806]

That could be really challenging, finding not dodgy USB charger :D

[@OmarMekkawy]

Thank you, Steve, for your video. Could you please tell me what is the model number for the PicoScope that you are using?

[@sdgelectronics]

I'm using the Picoscope 5000 Series, but they all use the same software. The lower end models are great too

[@t1d100]

Make sure that any copper layer text/graphics are not tied to the circuit, or power. Use a Keep-Out Zone under it.

[@T2D.SteveArcs]

Maybe a small single chip smps might work ok here? You could always bang a couple of lin regs on the output if noise is of concern.. Steve

[@ats89117]

Great video. Why not cut off the line input when the super capacitor voltage is above some threshold? This would add only a little complexity, and the gain in efficiency could be very high...

[@peterjones2411]

I would let the supply float up to its peek voltage and not use a super capacitor. use a high voltage high gain but or mosfet a high value resistor with zener passing only a few milliamps to drive base or gate. this will give very low standby power and improved pf at idle and low to mid loads and eliminates the supercap for a 22uf 350v electrolytic. that's my thoughts

[@peterjones2411]

edit but not but above also the 22uf bulk cap is for 1u5 line cap if you use 680nf line cap bulk cap needs 220uf and 1uf cap across zener to gate

[@peterjones2411]

bjt auto correct I hate it

[@therealb888]

A little off topic but are those PCB rulers accurate for scientific measurements? Do they bend or expand or contract or whatever?.

[@sdgelectronics]

They should be pretty good when you consider the requirements of high density PCBs

[@therealb888]

@@sdgelectronics Ikr I feel dumb for asking it now. I'll order one for myself 😅. By the way a few more dumb questions, what thermal cam are you using and what's the safest way to not have floating mains in this power supply design. Simplest ideas off the top of my head are using transformers & earthing (3 pin plugs) but they become bulky.

[@sdgelectronics]

@@therealb888 This camera is the Topdon TC001. I forgot I hadn't made that video live, so it'll be on next week. Transformers are the only way to do this, but I have a design coming up in a few weeks.

[@MichaelYoung-hu7bf]

Hello I recently purchased an Amscope CL-SM-3T-V203 microscope. I have watched some of your videos about microscopes, and camera mountings. I wanted purchase a .035 or a 0.5X C-mount Camera adapter for my microscope, but I cannot seem to find one that is compatible. I contacted the people at Amscope and they did not seem to know what I was talking about. The camera mounting port on my microscope is 28mm. nonthreaded. Would you be able to recommend a camera adapter? Thanks

[@sdgelectronics]

Do you mean 38mm? It doesn't look 28mm from the Amscope page. This one works well, and fits into the black part with the grub screw (replaces the slide tube). s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dcy8FsV

[@MichaelYoung-hu7bf]

Hi, Thank you very much for responding. I recently bought a clearance SM-3T-V203 microscope from the Amscope website in the U.S. I also live in the U.S. I watched your video, and wanted to avoid the camera adapter problems you discussed in the video. I have the same type of photo port adapter that you show in the video. However, the diameter of my photo port adapter is 27.5 mm. I'm not sure if Amscope updated its camera adapter port to 38mm. I have seen 28 mm photo port adapters, but they are all threaded adapters. I am not sure that I could use them on my microscope? Hopefully, you can help me. I can send you pictures; just let me know how. Thanks again for your help. Best regards, Michael

[@MichaelYoung-hu7bf]

Just to be clear the inside diameter of the camera port is 28 mm, and the outside diameter of the camera adapter is 27.5 mm. Thanks

[@MichaelYoung-hu7bf]

Sorry you are correct the camera port is 38mm. I seems that I cannot measure correctly. Thanks for your time and help.

[@SimonCoates]

How about keeping the same supercap but switch off the mains input once fully charged, switching it back on once the cap voltage drops below a set threshold?

[@sdgelectronics]

Could do this for sure, but there are probably better designs overall which we will check out

[@DirkFedermann]

I do the text in copper all the time for stuff that is not near any components to put my name, name of the project and date on it.

[@espenlyngaas9502]

Neat PCB! The horrible power factor doesn't mean anything, right? Or will it eventually mess with the consumer power meters?

[@sdgelectronics]

Someone has to "pay" for it, which will be me shortly when I start using home battery storage

[@therealb888]

​@@sdgelectronics do you already have videos on home battery storage or are they coming up? Looking forward to them.

[@TheEmbeddedHobbyist]

New consumer power meters can measure the real and apparent power, but if you look at LED lighting they are cheap to run as the current is out of step with the voltage, E.g. a bad power factor. The problem is they have to generate the apparent power and have a distribution system that can cope with that but you only pay for the true power which is less. So if the electric companies decide to charge for apparent then the cost of running LED lamp would go through the roof, unless they had resistive current limiting. E.g. a PF of 1.

[@TheEmbeddedHobbyist]

@@sdgelectronics looking forward to seeing it, 18 panels (6.75kW) and 9.6kWh battery, 6kW inverter in stalled in TEH towers.

[@therealb888]

@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist what's the cost of such a Setup? Sounds expensive af

[@tinfever]

I wonder if you could eliminate the supercap by zener regulating to a higher voltage like 24V so you can use a higher voltage big electrolytic cap to store more energy, then a buck converter to draw less current at the higher voltage. Not sure how cheap of a buck converter you could implement. Maybe $0.50? I think TI or someone also makes a linear reg that can operate at rectified mains voltages that could be interesting to test.

[@sdgelectronics]

My original thought, but the next design is a line voltage buck regulator anyway :)

[@paulcohen1555]

@@sdgelectronics That's the right thing to do. There are many low power offline regulators with readily available transformers for that application.