SDI/BNC Cable Termination - How? What Tools?

How to terminate (add connectors to) SDI cables. And which tools to use...
Tools - djp.li/Cat=CrimpTools
Cable & Connectors - djp.li/Cat=Cabling
CrewAxis Promo for February - djp.li/capromofeb
------------
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
www.amazon.com/shop/dougjohns...
Back us on Patreon:
/ djprod
----------
Follow us online!
DJP Website - www.djprod.biz/
Instagram - / djp_video
Facebook - / djpvideo
Twitter - / djp_video
Partial Equipment List - djp.li/gear
Free Production Tools - djp.li/tools

[@emanspeaks]

I rarely comment on videos, but just recently decided to make my own cables while rebuilding my rack, and this video and the recommendation links have been extraordinarily helpful. I’ve come back to this video numerous times now in my adventure to figure this out once and for all. Thank you for this and all the amazing content here.

[@VoxLesPaul]

Excellent video that will save loads of frustration, wrongly purchased tools and supplies on the part of the newbie.

[@scruggs.jonathan]

Well done. Very helpful info.

[@humbertocares8385]

This is pure gold... Thank you very much for the detailed tutorial

[@jon4715]

love it, great system. only thing i do extra is trimming about a half-mm of the shielding so it doesn't come out the top of the collar.

[@Aty3Studios]

This is pure gold! as someone already commented. Used this video and made my own cable and it works! Sure beats having to make-do with expensive "wrong length" pre-made cables. Thank you so much for this short and detailed video.

[@draildiagnostics]

What would you recommend for a super flexible coax cable. Specifically in the 3mm ish diameter range. Its not actually for video it would be for automotive labscopes since we use BNC coax test leads. Pretty flexible where it would almost be like a multimeter cable

[@TheDailyTechDose]

Our company did a good amount of work at CNN. I spent a good 3 days just terminating bnc’s

[@djp_video]

Loads of fun, isn't it. :)

[@jingjingzhao9892]

Great video! Can you talk more about what kind of cables should we use for 12G-SDI, 6G-SDI, 3G-SDI and HD-SDI? What are the differences between those cable? Thank you!

[@djp_video]

Try this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWG4g2Z6hMx0aaM

[@GrandProductionsMedia]

If it works it works and will work for some time. These cables send digital signals so its on or off not much in between at all. Just make sure your crimps are solid, a pull test is good to do as well.

[@Chelten]

Your videos are very helpful - thanks so much for taking the time to make them! Quick question, I have been starting to crimp my own SDI cables using 1694A cable (1694A-1000-VIOLET) and Belden crimp connectors (1694ABHD3) - the issue I am having is that when the connector is slid onto the dielectric it appears to flare the sheath just enough to make it very difficult to slide the ferrule down onto the sheath and connector fully. Thoughts?

[@djp_video]

I haven't used that specific connector before, but it does look a lot like the Canare BCP-B4F that I use. Are you using the official tool to strip the end? It almost sounds like the outer sheath isn't being stripped back far enough.

[@vuzya]

Guys, how do you strip L-7CHD or L-8CHD? CANARE doc says TS100 stripper can be used only for L-2.5 cables.

[@philtuttle]

Apparently the 1367 is no longer available?? Any updated recommendation. I'm sure you've probably noted this somewhere, but I haven't found it yet. Thanks.

[@kevinbrownjr7810]

Hey Doug, Your videos are great and helped me figure a lot out for my church. I need to make some cable. I was looking into the 1505f for the flexibility. Is the TS100U for appropriate cable stripper or is there another model? I did not see one that list 1505f online.

[@djp_video]

The stripper should be the same as 1505A if you're using Canare connectors, so the TS100U would work, though you'd likely need to adjust the depth of the blade for the outer sheath. In the case of 1505F, the proper Canare connector is BCP-A42, and the crimp die for that is TCD-31C. That's a different connector and die than the 1505A that I use and demonstrate in this video (which uses BCP-B4F and TCD-451CA). The crimp dimensions are different between the two. The sleeve on the 1505F is considerably wider than on 1505A. You wouldn't have good luck trying to use a crimp die made for 1505A on 1505F; it would crimp too tightly and likely damage the cable and compromise the electrical connection. I have not found a suitable third party crimp die for 1505F. And indidentally, Canare crimp dies only work in their own crimp frame; they don't fit the generic frames you find all over. If you're intent on using 1505F you should plan on investing in the official OEM tools, as expensive as that may be.

[@kevinbrownjr7810]

@@djp_video Copy. Thank you for that extra information. As I stated I wanted to use the 1505F for it's flexibility for shorter patch cables etc... I will probably stick with 1505A. Thanks again!

[@lennytsanchez]

Hi, your videos are awesome ! I have a quick question. Im on the Canare Website and they list several model connectors. I'll be using the BMD mini converters. What specs do I need to look at to get correct connector. Thanx

[@djp_video]

The connectors should match the cable you’re using. For example, I use Belden 1505A cable most of the time, and the Canare BNC connector for that cable is the BCP-B4F. The type of cable will vary based on what signal you’re using and the distance it needs to be run. Again, from my example, Belden 1505A is typically made for permanent installation of 3G-SDI at up to 100 meters. 1505F is the more flexible variant of that. 1694A is a heavier duty that should give some additional distance, with 1694F being the more flexible variant of that. Both of these families of cables can be used for 6G-SDI or 12G-SDI, but in shorter lengths. Each cable manufacturer will have different cables for different applications, and the specific connector will vary based on which cable you select.

[@lennytsanchez]

@@djp_video Hi Doug, thank you for your response. My company mainly supplies audio for live band performances and such, but from time to time I am asked to supply video to multiple projectors, LED monitors, etc. where I sub out that work. With that being said, I want to provide that myself. I was given a 500ft spool of Southwire Quad Shield 18awg RG6 3G Coax cable. I believe this is what is sold at local HD. For occasional setups I believe this is ok for me, but I'm confused as to what Canare, Neutrik or other connector termination to use for this particular cable. (BTW Neutrik is all I use for my XLR cables) Thanx Doug

[@djp_video]

If you're using hardware store coax cable, you should be able to find suitable (though not amazing) connectors at the same store. Trying to find matching connectors from Canare or Neutrik might require some trial and error.

[@ennis437]

Looks like greenlee got bought out. And I thought I bought what was the “2649” die which I guess is now paladin But it won’t crimp. The link to the canare connector specification chart that you have does not work anymore. What is the actual sizes of the holes? Mine are .324 and .255. Any help would be great! Thanks so much!

[@emanspeaks]

On the Paladin, .052 for pin, .255 for sleeve. I believe this to be true for both 1505a and 1694a.

[@jalmagro36]

what can I do if I need to crimp only a few cables of a different size? (I have the Canare TCD-451CA and would need the 35CA)

[@djp_video]

You could get the inexpensive die linked in the description.

[@jingjingzhao9892]

My second question is how to test the signal quality of the cable that I bought or made by myself is good enough? Thank you!

[@djp_video]

There are cable testers out there, but the only ones that I've seen that are actually useful are really, really expensive. So I don't have one. And I haven't needed it. I've never in 15+ years had a cable using 1505A, 1694A, and the Canare connections ever act up or fail.

[@dkloorozco9559]

Can an SDI cable that had one end inside and the other left outside for months be salvaged (used outright or clipped and a new connector added)?

[@djp_video]

There's a good chance of it. Clip off the bad end and take a look at the cable to see if it still looks good visually. If so, add a new end and test it.

[@kylehazachode]

I’ve had the canare stripper in my Markertek shopping cart for a few days now. After watching this video, I think I’m going to take the plunge and invest in this stripper

[@hardstone85]

Can this stripper be used for RG402 and RG405 coaxial cables?

[@djp_video]

I don't believe so

[@amoledor]

What size are the crimping dies? I see a few that are capable of doing BNC connectors but are different sizes.

[@djp_video]

www.canare.com/UploadedDocuments/Crimp_Die%20Spec.pdf

[@elir6178]

.176 for 1855a .255 for 1505 and .278 for 1694. These are die sizes for mostly kings or ADC connectors. Canare is pretty expensive connector

[@emanspeaks]

www.canare.co.jp/en/catalog/docs/26E/Canare26E_Eng.pdf See Page 49

[@JorgieMathew]

Sir I was trying to terminate my rg 56 with cheap 30 cent pins. Mostly in my area people used bnc pins with screw head to clamp the copper pen only for cctv DVR. I tried to terminate one end with bnc and another with RCA...it didn't work I have Sony x70 with SBI out 3 gsdi out. What do I need to do please suggest me something

[@djp_video]

You'll need to select a connector based on the type of cable you're using. I highly recommend Canare connectors, but Neutrik's are really good too. Visit their websites to see which of their connectors are compatible with your cable.

[@TheSLOdriver]

You mention the foil under the braided shield. Does the connector go under that part too or go between the foil and braiding?

[@djp_video]

The connector goes between the foil and braid.

[@beaky886]

@@djp_video how is this done? I find that it's nearly impossible to twist the outer braid out of the way of the connector without also doing the same to the foil.

[@djp_video]

I usually rotate the whole end of the cable in circles a few times. The foil stays put on the insulator but the braid bends out of the way and makes room for the connector

[@8mandolin]

Hey Doug, to add to this at 5:20 of the video: I am being told by a coworker that in order to put the connector on properly on this cable (1694A), I need to pull back both the braids and the foil together on the before I snap the connector in fully. In other words, fold the foil flat over the end of the connector (without bunching it up) and then the same with the braids. In many videos I’ve watched on the Internet of how to do this, I see the foil still laying untouched on the insulator after the connector snapped in and then the folded back braided go back laying on the connector before the ferrule gets crimped. I have found it difficult to fold the foil back to lay it over the connector. I keep squishing it down where I have to start all over. Which way is correct or does it even matter? I understand that some clients have different standards of how cables are installed. Hope this makes sense, Thanks.

[@johnlackner1193]

What Neutrik BNC connector would be used with RG8x cable?

[@djp_video]

I'd recommend visiting Neutrik's website to see which connector works for your specific cable. www.neutrik.us/en-us/neutrik/products/bnc-connectors/bnc-cable-connectors

[@Andrew-Graham]

Can you update your links both frames are no longer available

[@djp_video]

I've added another option. The crimp frame is pretty generic. There are many, many options available, but the available products change very frequently so it's hard to keep up.

[@sonicsound84]

Im using the same yellow stripper trying to strip 1505F and it does not do the cuts that well, that clean or at the right distance. when it done cutting I have a copper wire, metal braiding and the black sleeve... for what it costs, its majorly disappointing.

[@djp_video]

The blade depths are adjustable if you aren't getting clean cuts. Use an Allen wrench to move the blades up or down as needed.

[@sonicsound84]

Do you know if clockwise or counter clockwise makes it cut deeper @@djp_video ? Also, I pulled a USMC thing overthinking. For anybody having trouble, it literally takes 5 turns, if you go over 10 you end up cutting through where you shouldn't causing you grief. literally only 5 turns or until you feel tension fade, like Doug said in the video.. if you do it a bazzilion times your going to have a bad day.

[@sonicsound84]

@@djp_video , is the copper in the middle solid or is it stranded? I had a couple of pins that wouldn't go on and the wires broke off in the pin trying to get it in. im assuming the F makes it stranded so its flexible.

[@djp_video]

The F version is stranded, the A is solid conductor

[@Calvarydima]

What about rg6?

[@djp_video]

The Belden 1694 that I talked about in the video is an RG-6 type of cable. If you're dealing with hardware store RG-6, good luck in finding good quality connectors that don't fall off. The good quality name brands (Canare, Neutrik, Belden) don't make connectors designed specifically for "generic" cable like that. The good connectors are made for specific SKUs of RG-59/6 from the same manufacturers.

[@Calvarydima]

@@djp_video do you recommend a cramping tool ? There is three kind I found