SeaDoo Switch Tank Adapter

[@chadk6938]

I have a couple issues with this. So you put the the Yacht Devices tank adapter in parallel with the fuel sending unit. This will reduce the ohms of the overall circuit and make the fuel level inaccurate. This isn't your fault, it's how they say to install it. Second you should NEVER use vampire style clips and crimp connectors on a factory wiring harness. Especially on a marine application and especially on an application that is dependent on the ohms of the circuit. This should have been soldered or better yet re-pinned the plug.

[@letsrolldiyauto1532]

@@chadk6938 since this is a step gauge, and not a variable resistor type of fuel gauge, the resistance doesn’t change the accuracy. Or in the case of the Switch, inaccuracy. Soldering is fine and I have no issues with soldering. The use of dielectric grease has made it so I have experienced no corrosion so far.

[@Stauter1248]

According to wiring diagram PK is 3 (ground) and PK/BK is 8 (signal) . You can also tap 11 VT/PK for voltage reference as it’s a switched 12v.

[@letsrolldiyauto1532]

You are correct.

[@jantnee]

Frank, The configuration file has fuel type as DIESEL, Is this correct for a sea doo switch? Or should it be set to gasoline? NMEA 2000 SETTINGS TANK=0 FLUID=DIESEL DAMPING=3

[@letsrolldiyauto1532]

I set mine to gasoline, though according to the manual, it doesn't matter. I'd suggest just copy and paste the parameters I listed in the description and put that on your card. I know it works.

[@jantnee]

OK Thank You

[@bigal7255]

Do you have a video on how to remove the floor panels between the 2 access panels??

[@Drimplant]

I have not seen in the service manual that these are removable. I read someone trying to remove where the normal retaining bolts are and this person simply broke the floor panels.

[@swolaver1]

Absolutely the wrong type off wire tap splice to use. Especially on a boat.

[@vincentfarrell3935]

Keep making videos you have shown me so much and have been so helpful!! Have you done any work with the impeller and wear ring? Would you recommend stainless steel? Also oil change for the switch ?

[@Drimplant]

I haven't done impeller yet, but I do know I have a small ding in one of the blades that I can see. From running aground. I'm looking into the Solas impeller. I contacted Solas about Switch impellers. On their site they did not list the 1630 ACE engine, so they may not make impellers for the Switch yet. There are some good videos on them. I'm also looking into the SS ring. But currently think they are not good for the Switch. I'd use the plastic and not the SS. The housing is aluminum and having two dissimilar metals can create a galvanic current and corrosion. The aluminum usually takes the biggest hit. Then you'd be looking at having to replace the entire housing instead of just the ring. Most people use SS rings due to the closer tolerances between the ring and the impeller. This can increase performance. Getting a Jet Ski to 85+mph might warrant a metal ring, but a Switch is not that type of machine so the performance difference between a SS and plastic ring would not be noticed. When I do change the impeller and ring I'll for sure do a video, but I doubt it will be this boating season. I'm about 50 hours from the oil change and will do a video then.

[@karyl372]

How accurate is the fuel gauge with this?

[@letsrolldiyauto1532]

As accurate as the bar gauge on the dash. It gives gallons instead of the bar graph, but the fuel sensor on the Switch is stepped. So you only get readings in stages. Personally, I found the tank adapter not worth the effort. I use the fuel remaining as calculated by fuel flow. This is part of the Engine Gateway.

[@YoungquistMobileMarine]

Thanks for the video, you accidentally have it labeled as a YTDA.txt in the video notes. It should be YDTA.txt I kept getting 3 red lights when inserting the card until I noticed it should be the YDTA.txt file name.

[@letsrolldiyauto1532]

Thanks

[@WhitEhrich]

I cant get my garmin to prompt for tank size when i set to fuel level did you have this problem?

[@Drimplant]

If you previously set it with the Engine Gateway, you may not need to. In settings My Vessel. Fuel, you can toggle between fuel level based upon the flow rate or the fuel level. But if you previously set it, it’s there. Toggle back to flow and see if the setting is there.

[@mannyleggio3013]

I'm having the same issue. I also noticed that the TA GREEN led flashes twice, but at a faster rate than the EG, and more often as well. Gonna check my connections beneath the gauge to make sure I'm getting a signal first. @letsrolldiyauto1532 any advice?

[@jerryalbert]

Hi Frank. Do you need to tell the unit each time you fill the tank, or is it a set it and forget it? You must have been an engineer, I'm guessing. Or just a really good DIY guy.

[@letsrolldiyauto1532]

When using the tank adapter, you just tell it the tank capacity and that's it. If you choose to display based upon fuel flow (selected from the Garmin), then it uses the Engine Gateway to calculate remaining fuel based upon fuel flow. In this case, you'd have to tell it when you fill up, or how many gallons you added if not filled up.

[@m.k.7199]

Exactly where are you getting the wiring diagrams? BRP/SEA Doo customer service has been worthless.

[@letsrolldiyauto1532]

From the BRP Shop Manual. You can get one from CanAm manuals Mine is Midwest Shop Manuals.

[@mannyleggio3013]

Hey Frank. Still having issues. I have green leds flashing on both devices, however, the TA flashes at a faster rate. Also, it seem like they’re not communicating with the Garmin. I don’t get a screen to change fuel capacity and everything is blank on the Garmin gauges. Any idea?

[@mannyleggio3013]

I’m such an idiot. Lol I forgot to plug in the cable from the backbone to the Garmin. It was hiding and I didn’t even notice. lol. All perfect. Thank you again for all the help.