Second Gen Toyota Tundra/Sequoia starter replacement with manifold removal

[@jeffreyhudson3690]

Excellent video! The best part of the video was the labeling of the sizes of the sockets. Thanks for filming this!

[@christopherdever5536]

Glad it helped! Thanks for the feedback.

[@Lance-b2l]

This was an awesome video, as you went through each and every step you put up on the screen what size socket to use. keep up the great work. Hope you make more videos like this.

[@christopherdever5536]

Thanks for your feedback! Trying to make them as useful as possible.

[@tuckfexas1420]

Thanks bud.!!! You gave me the confidence to tackle this job myself and save $1300!! THANK YOU!!

[@christopherdever5536]

Awesome! That my friend is what it is all about!

[@martyisabeliever]

Thanks, Bro. I have one sitting on the Lift for Monday Morning. I concluded that pulling the manifold was the way to go after hearing all the shortcut guys say they were doing the job a second time. I don't know why Mitchell says to pull the alternator and drain and disconnect the coolant hoses at the trans cooler.

[@christopherdever5536]

Yeah I thought I could do this the easy way...only it wasn't the easy way. As for Mitchell - good question. I didn't have to. Good luck with your work. Bet you will get it done faster than I did.

[@LuckyChuckyD]

I like how you're honest at the beginning of the video ...

[@christopherdever5536]

Thanks for the comment. I was sure I was going to fix this thing the "easy" way and just got stuck. From there on I was kind-of on my own so I figured I would try to help the next guy or gal figure it out.

[@RphC74_mo]

This is a very well done video. Great work and thank you!

[@christopherdever5536]

Thank you. Hope to make the project easier for others than it was for me!

[@airman541]

I have watched countless videos where people go to great lengths not to remove the exhaust manifold as Toyota recommends to their mechanics. I started out trying some of those techniques and found it incredibly difficult and you need to essentially destroy the heat shields. Far easier and a more reliable long term replacement- just pull the manifold! I would have saved myself a couple of hours if I had just proceeded with that route from the beginning. Do you really think Toyota mechanics wouldn’t use “easier and faster methods”! If available?

[@christopherdever5536]

Yes! That is exactly what I found. Of course everyone has their own definition of when the work-around is helpful or not. This is one case where I would definitely pull the manifold unless it was heat/salt/age welded on.

[@johnballou1332]

Fantastic Video! Really well done!

[@christopherdever5536]

Thanks for the comment. Hope it was helpful.

[@tbamagic]

Geeze. What a task to change a starter! Today's cars!! 😮

[@christopherdever5536]

Tell me about it! The crazy thing is I have tons of room in my engine compartment. It's not like they couldn't have engineered things a little different!

[@royjimenez6789]

Wow that's a lot of labor work bro Toyotas Tundra are so complicated just to remove the Starter

[@christopherdever5536]

Yeah, that manifold is a real pain.

[@johnkopp1486]

I prefer the slip under manifold, it's tight but can be removed without taking off manifold.

[@christopherdever5536]

Do you have the 5.7L engine? I would love to see exactly how this is done. It would save time.

[@howiedang]

is this the dorman exhaust manifold that you installed a while back? Saw your other video, looked like this went a whole lot quicker.

[@christopherdever5536]

Yes it is! It was a whole lot quicker the second time. About the way it should have gone if I hadn't had to do all the modifications. I had no intention of taking it off again until I had to change the starter. Turns out it was easier to remove the manifold again. I actually went back to watch my other video to help refresh my memory. Good luck on your projects!

[@richardlothian7321]

Do you notice any performance issue with the Dorman replacement vs original? I see that the port openings in the Dorman appear to be smaller than the OEM; could that be restricting exhaust outflow and affecting performance?

[@christopherdever5536]

I have not noticed any decrease in performance but my truck is pretty much stock. I suppose if you were really trying to max out the performance it might have an impact. I didn't like that feature of the aftermarket and I wouldn't buy it again but I had the truck apart and had to get it back together.

[@richardlothian7321]

I had the same weld break issue happen to my Sequoia, driver's side, after a mechanic replaced the SAI valve assembly; do you think it's worth trying to re-weld the OEM part?@@christopherdever5536

[@tonypengo]

If you had to do it again, would you still have gotten the doorman manifold or oem? I watched your other video and really like how its welded around the secondary air part compared to just being stamped together on oem. I know you had to do some modifications on this manifold, but I figured since I can reference your video I can see whether it needs to be sent back or not.

[@christopherdever5536]

@tonypengo I guess it would depend on how much time I had. The flipped flange could be easily identified and either returned or fixed with a few washers. However grinding back the pipe inside the flange that was flush instead of recessed was a big pain. Enlarging the holes inside the exhaust itself for better airflow didn't take too long. I agree that the weld seems better than the stamped steel. I have a small part of the secondary air component that touches the engine block now that I have it bolted down. Another fitment issue but it hasn't created a problem yet. I probably would have gone with OEM or a different aftermarket if I could find a reasonable price.

[@tonypengo]

@@christopherdever5536 Thanks for the response and the video you have made, much much appreciated!

[@stevekeenan9673]

I got the 2 air tube out n 4 manifold bolts on the left side, just the 4 on the right side to go (the hard to reach ones).

[@christopherdever5536]

Good luck! Hope the video made it a little easier. The hardest nut is the one I had to use a short socket only half inserted on the extension knuckle to remove! Other than that it was pretty straight forward.

[@sergio020280]

I just removed two starters from a 2010 Toyota Tundra and a 2011 Toyota Tundra 4.6, and I didn't have to remove the manifold. I just removed the oil dipstick tube, and I was able to remove the starters.

[@christopherdever5536]

Man that is great! I know 2010 was a change of model year - but I think it was mainly appearance. I would guess that it is the 4.6L part that makes it different. I've done work on my secondary air intake system and it is way more involved than on the 4.6L. That or you are just way more patient than me;)

[@sergio020280]

@@christopherdever5536 I did both. I replaced the starter on a 2010 Toyota Tundra 5.7 crew cab and a 2011 Toyota Tundra 4.6 single cab.

[@tommyadames5856]

good job

[@christopherdever5536]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@maxospreys2964]

The trick is removing dip stick off the way.

[@christopherdever5536]

Yep, makes all the difference.

[@hzhrway]

If you jack up just the front passenger side, you won't have to take off the cooler lines, manifold or exhaust, or jack the motor up an inch like others have done. You'll have enough clearance to wiggle it out.

[@christopherdever5536]

Have you successfully managed this yourself? I think that is exactly what I did and I finally gave up. I jacked up the front passenger side, left the manifold on and got all the way down to the starter shield but couldn't get it out. I probably could have majorly deformed it and gotten it out but then I didn't know how I would have gotten it back in with the bolt to hold it in place. Can you describe a little more how you did this?

[@vaulttekka5083]

I just did this not to long ago and yes you can. I have headers so I technically needed to take it off but didn't want to. I went through the front and down however if you have a 4x4 like me, you well have to disconnect the cv joint not remove just pull it out a bit

[@edward-wr2eh]

Toyota has screwed the average mechanic pertaining to the engine and tranny.

[@erkme73]

@@christopherdever5536 I just did mine today. Took about 1.5 hours to get it out, and another hour to get it in. The key was to separate the solenoid from the starter while it's still up near the tranny. You have to get it loose from the bell housing, and then spin it enough to get access to the two 10mm nuts that hold the solenoid on. Once it's separated, the girth is significantly reduced, and it will slide out (with solenoid still attached electrically) through the space between the lower control arm and the axle (if you have 4wd). New starter goes in, in reverse - just undo the solenoid, get it lined up with tranny then reattach solenoid. Honestly, the thing that took me the longest was getting that effing heat shield in/out.

[@gastonperalta6946]

Buen trabajo pero complicado para mi 😮y si lo mando a la agencia de Toyota a reparar en cuanto me saldría?)$

[@christopherdever5536]

¡Gracias! No sé el costo exacto, pero sospecho que si lo llevaras al concesionario Toyota y usaras piezas genuinas de Toyota, costaría al menos $1500 dólares. Sin embargo no lo he comprobado así que podría estar equivocado. ¡Por favor publique lo que encuentre si se comunica con un distribuidor!

[@tommyadames5856]

1600 en el dealer

[@lonnydeel6942]

4.7 is a real pain!

[@joshwilson5671]

You don’t have to remove the manifold to remove the stater.

[@christopherdever5536]

Could you post a video link or a description of how to do this on the 2008 5.7l model engine? I watched a video and tried it and it was almost impossible. I gave up and did it the "hard" way. It would be great to know if there is an easier way that the average guy can do.

[@lonnydeel6942]

No more side of the road in 110 heat and do it in 15 minutes!

[@christopherdever5536]

I wish!

[@ryanalexander984]

There’s that “over engineered” quality that the Toyota fan boys love to brag about. I’m am not looking forward to doing this job on my 2008 tundra. Maybe I’ll have it traded for a Chevy by that point.

[@christopherdever5536]

Yeah it's not a fun job. Definitely don't go for the budget aftermarket starter if you are going to do all that work. I didn't get the toyota starter but I bought a premium aftermarket version. Good luck! Love my Tundra when I'm not fixing it ;)