Secret Formula for Drafting 18th Century Stay, Bodice, & Jacket Patterns (to your own measurements)

Discussing the basic concepts of conical bodice patterning. The 18th Century silhouette is a mystery that I must unravel, before it unravels me. But I think I figured out a big piece of the puzzle. My entire hypothesis is that despite the apparent complexity of 18th century patterns, they MUST have a simpler root. Occam's Razor: the simplest solution is almost always the best. There must be a reason clothing evolved like this, and simple patterns were a more natural solution for common people of the day who weren't fashion designers, people who just needed *clothes*. So my theory is that, quite opposite of these patterns being complex and unnatural, they must actually be simple to draft and fit to yourself, if only you know how.
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[@MariahPattie]

Edit (12/27/20) I have been throughly outvoted on the notion of taking measurements without a bra 😬

[@AM-os4ty]

Ha! It makes sense, though, since the first garment to make are stays.

[@xaoxia]

My bust sits so long and low without one, I am not surprised you got outvoted but I hope it wasn't painful! I'm just going to try both and see which is most comfortable. Nothing wrong with that!

[@deannastevens1217]

For us Big Busted ones. It makes more sense.

[@runfridr]

I think sports bras is the best :) but im sure it depends on the bustshape and size

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

Really depends on your boobs, I rarely wear a bra so I only put one on if I want the garment I'm making to support or relocate them...

[@garrettrobinson3826]

As a short-torsoed man, this is a revelation. I started tilting my waistbands recently and everything clicked into place. It's so good to know this is an actual thing!

[@annedavis3340]

If ever ANYTHING needed a clickbait phrase like "pattern makers hate her!" On it. I'm so short waisted that when I shorten paper stay patterns the amount I need to at the line they give, the edges of the curved lines of the stays are inches apart and it's basically re-drawing the entire pattern at that point. Then you're right back to trying to guess what the pattern is supposed to do to your body and how you'll match it. And I'd paid my precious money for them. *flailing squid arms* I could absolutely hug you for this (in a socially distanced manner, and only if you're a hug person) Thank you, you incredible being. Continue rocking on!

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I've been trying to modify a corset pattern to fit my shape, finding that I have a really short thick waist, large ribcage and narrow hips ... I have determined that my shape is best described as "brick with boobs". If I stick two fingers into my waist, one's touching my ribcage and the other's touching my hip, and my "natural waist" is a few inches above the bottom of my ribcage, so fitted women's pants are right out...

[@annedavis3340]

@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 waist on the bones of the ribcage squad! I only look like an hourglass cause I have wide fleshy hips and large breasts. My underbust and my waist measurement are the same size and my waist is ON my ribs. And i'm super shortwaisted. I've had multiple corset makers reach out cause they were CONVINCED I gave them the wrong measurements. Sigh.

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

@@annedavis3340 Yeah I believe that. There's not a lot of difference between my waist and my underbust, and my boobs are flat and wide so they don't look or act as big as they meausre. I am sorely lacking in hips though, if I wear pants one inch larger at the waistband than what I usually wear, I can get them off without undoing the zipper and if I wear women's pants either the waist is so tight I'm gonna hurt myself if I sit or the hips are so loose I can stick my hands in the pockets and splay them outwards and still have room :P Im also really short-crotched so women's pants tend to have way more room than I need and I end up with the waistband ccreeping up my ribs like Steve Urkel.

[@Betsyschugar]

Mariah: *explaining in great detail how to make a stays pattern from the base shape Me, a confused dumb dumb: wot

[@sarahbeth124]

I watched it twice, before I got what was happening. This is wayyyy past my skill level, but totally something I want to try anyway.

[@TajaV]

Me currently lol glad to know I’m not the only one.

[@Linda-eh5tt]

Mariah, you are brilliant. This was a PhD dissertation. Watching your mind work is stunning. You go so smoothly from keen insight to adorably human cutting out the wrong pieces. Thank you for sharing it all!

[@wiktoriagrochowiecka8930]

I normally wouldn't comment after ten seconds of the video, but my God, those furniture are wonderful

[@ninad205]

For the hips, an Anterior and posterior tilt of the pelvis is possible. Anterior is the most common. A pelvic tilt will affect your posture and the curves in the spine. I am trying to fix my posture and now I am realizing that I now have to alter almost all of my fitted/tailored clothes :/

[@breakfastsewingclub1170]

I was just about to mention posterior and anterior pelvic tilt I used to work out of physical therapy office and it's very common.

[@mirjam3553]

I had to stop the video and comment the same thing! Lumbar (hyper)lordosis aka hollow back. Makes the pelvis (and the waistline :P) tilt forward. Like it would need less of a bustle support in the back :P I don't make my pants with a lower crotch, I make them with a higher back, but yeah.

[@chronischgeheilt]

Yup, I even read how therapists analyze and refer to these tilts in degrees since it all influences the rest of the body.

[@tonygroves5526]

@@mirjam3553 yup, Same. I shorten the back bodice of everything.

[@kray3883]

I remember thinking about this from the zippered stays video... She definitely has a bit of an anterior pelvic tilt (a lot of women do, I know I do) and you can see it in the analysis section on that video. They didn't make clothing so much to fit the body then, they shaped the body (with exercises, corsetry, and a LOT of padding) to fit into the shape they wanted. It feels uncomfortable for someone who's not used to it, but if you started in practically childhood with the posture exercises and corsets then I imagine that you get used to it (see Bernadette Banner's medical posture corrector). A lot of the posture they wanted back then wasn't necessarily ideal, but a neutral hip tilt is still recommended...it saves you a lot of pain later on in life!! A lot of people do just chop out length in the back (and add it back to the hem) but that causes other problems... Here's a really good explanation: www.sbccpatterns.com/blogs/news/the-number-one-alteration-you-are-doing-wrong

[@bsal4160]

Hahaha. I am so glad there are both Micarahs and Mariahs in the world. I've learned so much from you both! 💜

[@mirzadakobilic6440]

Did she referenced that Micarah? 😂😂

[@spacecase0]

You are brilliant. I think math and logic wins when compared to other systems.

[@DraemoraH]

You have no ideia how much you helped me! I made a petticoat styled skirt this week,and was having major trouble to make a bodice. I couldn't find a diagram of some sort to help me out, and there's little to none historical patterns being sold in the country I live. I'll probably have some trouble making it still, but just the fact that you showed how to calculate it and didn't use a dress form is so helpful. Thank you so much! It probably won't be historically accurate but will fit the aesthetic I'm going for (female hobbit clothing from the first Lord of the Rings film)

[@spacecaptain9188]

Hi, I tried this with a curvy and floppy volunteer, and it worked very well. We wound up making a $4 pair of stays in an afternoon! Our goal was just to replace the obligatory painful bra with something comfortable, that would satisfy work/social rules in public places (she would much rather just wear a shirt and skip undergarments all together). We used your formula, and then cut that plain cone shape out of three dollar store plastic cutting boards,. We duct taped the pieces together, then lined the edges with some more folded duct tape. Lastly, we sewed a zipper to two of the duct tape edges. We made a lining, just because we thought she would need one, but so far, she says she doesn't need it. She's going to hang on to it for summer/sweating, but we'll see how that goes. It's very comfortable, and doesn't squeeze at all, though she notes it does perk things up in the front a bit, just because of the cone shape. Thank you so much for this formula, it's brilliant! Next time I might try putting holes into it for ventilation, and maybe encase it in a lining for long term structural integrity, additional comfort, ease of washing, and for fashion's sake, lols! Point is I will definitely do this again!

[@spacecaptain9188]

Update: It's been 4 months, and my volunteer has used this as her soul "bra", which she wears only when she's out in public. Overall, she's been very happy, but there is room for improvement: I tried to add ventilation holes, for the upcoming warm weather, and broke two of my tools in the process, because the material is so durable (flexible cutting boards)! We also made a lining that fits like a pillowcase, mainly for use at the gym, to prevent uncomfortable rubbing and to absorb sweat. Unfortunately, despite having been prewashed, the lining misshapes every time it's washed, and then needs to be stretched to fully encapsulate the cutting boards underneath, creating a slightly loose fit. We're Considering sewing some ribbons to a lining, and just tying them on to a few eyelets at the perimeter of the stays, instead. That way it won't matter if it deforms a bit. Also, the duct tape worked great for a bit, but needed to be removed and replaced from time to time, as heat and movement slowly detaches it at the corners. I'll probably cancel the tape, and sew lightly padded vinyl to the edges, and use permanent laces, or maybe velcrow, to hold the panels together in future designs. The only other negative has been that the cutting boards, if too close to an iron, will warp, and have to be remade! All of that said, it's still the best (and only) "bra" my volunteer will wear. Very comfortable, compared to a regular bra. We will see if that opinion changes at all during the Summer heat.

[@darknessfierce4209]

I like this comment. I always wonder if they can replace a bra why doesn’t anyone ever talk about that?

[@lieselemay]

You just inspired me to install a hole for a pivot point in my cutting table when i get back into my studio.

[@sapphirecamui6447]

I'll have to watch this several times until i understand more of it. i'll probably have to dig up some tutorials as well. i'd like to make a pair of stays or corset for myself because... pretty big chest and poorly fitting modern undergarments...

[@michellecelesteNW]

You may want to play around with architectural perspective drawing to help better visualize her concept. Ching is a great author on a series of this drawing style, I had to do this a lot in design school.

[@TimesmithDressHistory]

Staymaking is a huge passion of mine and I've been so excited by the attempts so many people have been making, at drafting their own stays patterns using the period documented "arc method" outlined in "Patterns of Fashion 5". It really ensures you end up with stays that fit properly, and that includes sitting in the right place on the body, which straight seamed conical stays just can't achieve. It's been a revelation! I attended the stays pattern drafting workshop taught by Luca Costiglioli at The School of Historical Dress in London and it was a total game changer for me. I am making new stays for myself right now, using the pattern I was able to draft for myself using the methods described in the tailoring and staymaking manuals from the 18th century. My mock-up was sooooo close to perfect!

[@zamouri8744]

As someone who has scoliosis and a twisted spine AND a hard time making patterns THIS. Has been the easiest tutorial to follow and the fact I can alter it to my left and right side to fit more comfortable 👏 chefs kiss. I cannot thank you enough.

[@annelieserose7928]

This is literally the only pattern that fits me I’ve tried drafting about 8 corsets before this including the online corset generator and this one is great. I measured while wearing a bra btw and it’s perfect . Thanks!😭🥰

[@jeflarremore7170]

That's really cool. Very intelligent. I want to take those numbers and compare them and see if there is some sort of formula that could be derived to make a calculator. It's high school Calculus and computer programming all in one.

[@KarinaDoRego]

I want that program if you make it.

[@jeflarremore7170]

@@KarinaDoRego I would need the data to start with.

[@KarinaDoRego]

Well, I know that the radius for the waist circle for me is 167" and for the bust is 156". My bust to waist is 11". 1/2 bust is 24.5" and 1/2 waist is 23". The radius found was where the points converged. If this helps create a math equation, please let me know. I also have my daughter's plot points too.

[@lindsey7276]

This would be so helpful for so many people. As someone with an asymmetrical body due to spinal deformity (and by far not the only one out there), I have looked for programs that allow you to put in measurements for each half of the body. Because the midline of my back and front is not perfect, the measurements of the right side of my body differ from the measurements of the left side of my body. If I followed the "normal" pattern drafting methods of copying the same pattern for right and left sides, the midline on my garment would not look right and the fit would not be close. If anyone sees this and is interested in creating a program, I'd love if this idea was kept in mind!

[@vivijd14]

Oh wow!! Very similar to the “arc method” in patterns of fashion, ( studies by Luca Costigliolo) but more straightforward! I can’t wait to try it!!

[@shonitagarcia3222]

Yes. Some people are tilted in the waist line. Some are higher in the back and longer in the front. Not everyone is straight across unless you're not a very curvy person. Great share. Thank you.

[@nunyabusiness164]

I mean, if you even just look at an x ray of a human skeleton from the side, that's how the pelvis is shaped. It IS taller in the back, barring some serious abnormality. So she was exactly right!

[@femkebeernaert]

I'm a schooled pattern drafter and having the front waistline lowered on trousers and bodices is something I always do. I learned 2 different drafting systems over the years and both do this. I think that it's needed for most women. When I was taught the first system we had 1 person who it looked weird on. Her body type was short waisted with practically no waist definition. I like how this method skips having to make a flat pattern that I would then have to tape together to make up a good base for drawing the stays. Will try this out. For an actual bodice I wouldn't chose this though. Looking forward to the next video :-)

[@magbiblue7045]

This should make you happy: i used this method to make myself a 16th century italian renaissance bodice for an SCA event. it was definitely rushed, I didn't do the math perfectly (my fan ended up with a weird point in the front, but since I needed a point anyways I just left it), and I didn't realize that I needed to raise the neckline a bit, but somehow it still managed to fit near perfectly (the only fit issues I had were the too-low neckline, although I was wearing a shirt underneath so it was more physical discomfort than anything else, and the straps, which I drafted separately). Definitely mostly a success for at least 16th century italian renaissnace, although I'll definitely need to fine tune it before I make myself a pair of stays!

[@nunyabusiness164]

Everyone's hips are tilted! You got it exactly right! Just look at a diagram of a skeleton from the side, that's literally the shape of the human pelvis bone- taller in the back, tilting down towards the front. People may have more or less tilt depending on structure and general posture, but Mariah, YES! Hips not only can be tilted, they ARE tilted!

[@elizabethunger9223]

Thanks for making the math a lot easier! May I make a suggestion? The text only inserts may need to be up longer, as they go too fast to really be able to read without pausing.

[@tonieundertwenty]

You have completely inspired my own journey for an 18th century (ish) capsule wardrobe, I needed this so bad! Thank you!! 😁😁😁

[@ninad205]

This pattern is soooo simple! I must give this a go😊 thanks so much for sharing

[@MrsYasha1984]

I trying your method out currently, for an 18.ct -ish jacket. I think I was never so fast in having drafted a starting point for pattern, and holding it to my body is very, very promising! Now I was looking at sleeves. I want long ones, because winter. So I searched and looked at back seamed sleeves through the ages and then it dawned on me: the backseamed sleaves look like a small but long fan shape with some curves on top!!! That's where they started, I'm sure!!! I'm so freaking excited to test all this out, and thank you so much for sharing your insight and putting my inspiration into overdrive!

[@fiemy6888]

I love this, and I'm definitely going to try it! Ive been wanting to make a pair of stays for a while now, so this could come in very helpful! However, I don't believe everyone made their own clothes, Abby Cox has a video about shopping in the 18th century where she mentions it as well. But that's just nitpicking!! You’re certainly among my favorite KZbinrs, and I always look forward to your videos especially those on stay making ad history bounding!;D

[@kaytiej8311]

Thank you for your work on this. It is so nice to have someone explain this for those of us who's bodies aren't "standard"!

[@OpusElenae]

Ohhhhhh, I can’t wait to try this!

[@sillyjellyfish2421]

oh, this is a life saver! thumbs up for recommending wrapping paper. i can't believe that i didn't think about it before!

[@jeanfitzsimmons7442]

This pattern making was extremely helpful, especially the short waist discussion. It is just weird, that at my advanced age, nearly 80, i finally know how to adjust for my short waist! Thank you!

[@carmenm.4091]

So clever! Love this and will try this for sure! Thank you for sharing your discovery with the world. I think you’re right by saying that it must be something basic that everyone was able to do. In Japan for instance they have a formula for making a kimono. No pattern needed. You just needed the formula and it is still done the same way for centuries.

[@abbychappell3255]

I finally got around to starting stays and I made one mockup yesterday (measured over a Tshirt, no bra) and it was too big (not a lot though). Measured today with a sports bra, no Tshirt, and rounded down measurements to whole numbers, and it seems to fit much better. Even with taking 1.5" out for the back lacing, I can still close all the way, so I figure that is a good start. Once bones get added in, they'll shrink up a bit so that gap may appear! I got a pretty good placement for the bust/strap points yesterday, but I used an old stays pattern to estimate the remainder of the pieces. I just did a front, two sides, and a back. We shall see how they go!

[@Mums_a_knitter]

I love your logical approach... So tempted to get drafting right now!

[@annedavis3340]

Short-waisted Even-shorter-backed People Assemble!!

[@kaytiej8311]

Nice to know I'm not alone!

[@lauramcguire7970]

Yep, delightful to find someone mentioning it!

[@spicysith9627]

Listen to her! I followed her instructions, and today I drafted my pattern. So accurate that the paper thing fits! First mockup tomorrow.

[@leti_ci_a]

I still refer to this video whenever I need inspiration to sew! It's just brilliant, BRILLIANT.

[@mythlover20]

An amazing method, which I guarantee will be completely broken by people who are asymmetrical, either through scoliosis or genetic disorder like me; but, it is still fantastic to have this in our arsenal against modern mass production. Thanks. ^^

[@thepeacefish]

Incredible. Not only have you changed the game for at-home sewers who may not have the space or resources for a custom dress form, you’ve also beautifully demonstrated how a working knowledge of 3D geometry would have been absolutely indispensable for women throughout history. I’m pulling this video up in every online argument where a troll tries to tell me math was invented by men.

[@dexaria]

Brilliant! I’m thinking of making some stays and this is exactly what I need

[@amyjones2490]

Fascinating! I'll have to watch this several times to absorb all the information.

[@anglomallorquina5898]

Short waisted and high hip person here. Tilted hips are definitely a thing according to my chiropractor. Thanks for this I’m going to give it a go soon.

[@MossyMozart]

I know I have a pelvic tilt, but I never once considered how it would effect fit. Eye-opener!

[@nadinebowling4224]

you are a lifesaver! used this to make a bodice/corset for renfest this weekend and it worked so well! i did it without a bra and it was near perfect. after fighting with the patterns for the other pieces i am also making it was so nice to have this work the first try! thank you for sharing!!

[@vorvayne5935]

So 1) this is brilliant, I love it, but also 2) people in the 18th Century actually didn't make all their clothes at home? That sounds strange but Abby Cox has a video on this, about how the making your clothes at home thing was basically a victorian invention since before that dressmaking and tailoring were basically closely guarded guild secrets and nothing was written down. Everyone from the middle class up had their clothes made, or they bought items like stockings and hats, and (though she doesn't mention this) very poor people would tend to buy old clothes and repair/alter them. Anyway that's yet more massive generalisations and frankly I'm not sure when that practise started or what people did before hand because, like, if you're a farmer's wife literally when are you going to have time to handsew your whole family's clothes? it's not happening, but presumably there wasn't a local seamstress in like 200BC England. Probably? Who knows, maybe there was. Also as someone else mentioned you 100% do have anterior pelvic tilt (ie your hips are tilted in the way you describe here) which is most obvious in the modernized zippered stays video: you mention that after a while they're uncomfortable in the low back, as the stays try to get you to stand with [clip of you standing with a normal lower back curve] while you naturally want to stand with [clip of you displaying anterior pelvic tilt, with too much curve in the lower back - actually WAY too much but I assume you exaggerated for effect]. Incidentally the pain is because your lower back muscles are used to sitting in that shortened state and are probably too weak to cope with lengthening to produce less of a curve there. If that sounds strange, think about how much harder it is to hold something heavy with your arm extended than with your arm bent. Extension requires more strength. Anterior pelvic tilt is more common in women because of - a bunch of things, but the book you mention is correct that it's a postural problem - indeed one stays and corsets were at least partially intended to solve by enforcing good posture. It's usually caused by weak core muscles (not just abs - this definition includes the back support muscles, abdominal muscles and also the iliopsoas, which is a frequent offender in yanking the low back into anterior tilt); intuitively you might think that a weak muscle would be loose but actually, especially for postural support muscles, weak muscles will tend to become tight and short because staying in that shortened state means they need less strength to do their job correctly, ie keep you upright. Whew. Okay. Actually for reference if your low back hurts in the 'correct' posture despite being held there by a supportive garment I'd tend to say that means it's not (just) a weakness in the low back or abs, but probably is that iliopsoas yanking it. Maybe look into that if you feel like it and would enjoy hitting 40 without low back pain. Note that many people will tell you just to stretch it - incidentally if that gives you instant relief then voila, that's the problem - but again that's a deep core muscle that usually will require strengthening not (just) stretching.

[@Marie-n6v]

I'm drafting a pair of stays for a friend and this was super helpful! Thank you!!

[@michellecornum5856]

Yep, tilted hips, short waist, sway back. I makes you wonder if they are trying to fit normal humans or a visually pleasing dress dummy. On this note, I hear from almost everyone that they can't find clothes in stores that fit them, and sewing patterns can't be followed like a recipe and make a decent fit. Interestingly, all of the alterations tend to be exactly what you said. This is important work! Can't wait for the next video.

[@samr9776]

Ok 3 years late to commenting this but I just discovered this video and tried this out, it worked so well! Thanks for sharing the knowledge ☺️

[@nunyabusiness164]

Me: Barely begun hand sewing my first 18th century men's shirt out of rectangular bits of bedsheet Also me: (saves this video "for later",,,,)

[@michellecelesteNW]

Brilliant!!! It makes sense that it’s harp shaped, I’ve been noticing that underlying pattern everywhere now that I’m looking for it. Also, I’m short waisted and my back is higher and shorter. It’s called a tilted pelvis and it’s normal but I’m not sure if everyone has it. Great work!

[@craftydreamerscorner1484]

EUREKA!!!! Thanks so much for sharing this wonderful formula!!!

[@naolucillerandom5280]

I don't understand half of it but it feels like I just saw something that will be incredibly important to remember once I start sewing a lot. Like that time I learned about the secret set of primary colors a year before starting to paint in acrylics.

[@luzolague5002]

I just found your channel and it was for me life-changing, love your content, please keep going!

[@tammybeaudry3435]

I think i've found my new most favorite channel! This helps so much! i can't wait to see the next video!

[@JezabelleAsa]

Wow... How many dress historians are facepalming, right now? 😂😂

[@aubigney]

i'm literally wearing a barbie shirt and had a small breakdown before because of my discalculia so i definitely feel called out. thanks for this video! its really helpful!

[@jennilumikettu7466]

I have a B shaped stomach (two rolls with a distinct waistline in between). And I'm short waisted in the back, normal on the front. The difference is almoust 2 inches! If you look at me directly from the side, you can see how my waistline tilts forward. Recently I started cutting a piece off my skirts to dip them in the front and they sit so much better now as my body is not trying to push the waistband down (skirts/pants) or roll it up to empire line (dresses).

[@ashextraordinaire]

Thank you for this! I'm also short-waisted, with my hips higher in the back. (I'm also hourglass-shaped, so pattern drafting is a nightmare.) You really broke this process down and make it much less intimidating. THANK YOU!!!

[@ShakespeareDoomsday]

I am not short-waisted at all (I’m 4’11.5” and have a normal-length torso and super short legs) and I have to shorten the backs of bodices and lengthen back crotch curves (along with other adjustments I regularly have to do), so I think you’re right that it’s a result of the shape of the spine rather than torso length. Those adjustments are called the sway back adjustment and full seat adjustment in case you have any interest in seeing how others go about it.

[@sewshady8758]

Ok I’m kinda pissed about how well this worked . Iv been working with increasingly more complicated modern patterns for years and I can never get it to fit right . Turns out all I needed was a rounded rectangle . Not that I doubted you but I saw the base pattern and thought “ there’s no way . I have to give it a go. There’s no way it’s that easy” ...The top I made fits better then anything Iv made befor ..... your videos are amazing. Thank you for this knowledge.

[@TorchwoodPandP]

I think you may just have gotten me outbof five years of despairing over making a pair of stays! Well, I’m ambitious and going for the 1810 style, woth boob separation. But this will be helpful, to start me off, and when I fall further backwards in time.

[@Qinglin888]

I'm studying to become a dressmaker and this was really cool to see! And yeah, it is really important to take "balance measures" (I have no idea if that is a term used in English) to see if your body is symmetrical from side to side and also front to back. A tilted pelvis is totally a thing! Bodies are different and we carry ourselves differently. The issue is always with the garment, not the body though!

[@kray3883]

Unless your pelvic tilt eventually causes you to have lower back pain....

[@Qinglin888]

@@kray3883 I meant the issues with fit of your clothes.

[@CatariaNigra]

I have never sewn in my life, but wanted to learn it. My daughter has quite long legs, but is rather thin ;( which means, the torso can be her normal size, but the legs must be as thin as that size and as long as one size above that). I just adjusted her patterns accordingly, and it wasn‘t hard at all. Her jumpsuit fitted very well. Actually, I think it works fine with a tiny portion of logic and intuition.

[@vfrances5159]

Yes, indeed!! Ones hips can be tilted front to back AND/and sideways! I've got both thanks to congenital scoliosis age related osteoporasis!

[@KarinaDoRego]

I giggled at the "can hips be tilted? Is that a thing?" Because mine tilt side to side. One is higher than the other. I was born with hip dysplasia that was never corrected.

[@marvellousmrsmoller]

Thank you. Drafting to FIT suits me much more happily than following some random draft numbers and hoping it might fit.

[@Marsontheearth]

I am BLESSED by this we have almost the same measurements omg

[@tarahankins5566]

Oh my woooorrrrrrrddddddd you are amazing! You are so smart. Thank you so much for sharing this with us!!

[@isabelhess1510]

Oh my goodness thank you for this explanation about short waistedness! When I made my stays earlier this year I shortened the pattern by about 2 inches and after a few mock-ups and a redraft I went ahead and made it. I’ve been wearing them a lot but I’m noticing that the back is still too long. My circumferences are all right, but I think that taking that wedge out of the back would really help to bring up the bottom of the stays over my hips and stop the pinching! Thank you for this breakthrough!

[@Pamplemouse4all]

You also might have a forward tilted pelvis. My dad and I both have shorter than average ligaments in the front thigh, pulling the front of the pelvis forward. In can cause some back aches, and it makes thighs larger and more muscular just in the front, (makes pants a pain to find) . It almost always means I have to shrink the back of any bodice I'm making. On the upside, it make me look like I do more lunges than I actually do!

[@colettebramwell-colyer]

Yes ones pelvis can be a bit tilted. My doctor told me this. Anyways I am short waisted and have a bit of sway back and always have to make the adjustments you’re mentioning here.

[@astuart3504]

Your . . . a SOUTHPAW!!! Me too!!! I know that fact is irrelevant to everyone but myself. However, I still get giddy when I find another left handed person (and I'm in my mid thirties). Though now that I think about it, I might have noticed this about you before. One of the benefits of a bad memory is that you can experience some joys multiple time! ; D

[@kristant4724]

Yay fellow south laws unite. :)

[@barbaraferron7994]

When watching art videos. I keep thinking the right handed artist is using the wrong hand. Left handed artists just look normal to me so I don't notice.

[@kitdubhran2968]

I could never ever ever measure the distance from my bust apex and my waist and use that as a real measurement while not wearing a bra. I have what is called “pendulous” girls and the distance between my “apex” and waist is.... minimal. I will however take the measure without a bra and then try to put the height... roughly where I want the apex to be. We’ll try it. I very much love that you’ve compiled this. Thank you!

[@saritshull3909]

Girl same. What if you put on a t shirt and tape around the bust to get them lifted and flattened like they will be in stays

[@kitdubhran2968]

@@saritshull3909 I haven’t tried that. I might do that.

[@saritshull3909]

@@kitdubhran2968 I haven’t either but in theory it should work

[@cap4life1]

This is amazing! Thank you for demonstrating it - makes so much sense.

[@waltervelleda]

*yelling internally at this amazing job* thaaank you so much for sharing!

[@miriamgillham6701]

Wow!!! So demystifying. This is exciting!

[@deannastevens1217]

This is Awesome! Now to get enough time to work on it. and watch this over and over and over! Awesome!

[@dexaria]

I’ve just started using this to pattern some stays and I shortened the back of my pattern by 2 whole inches. I knew I was more short waisted in the back but I didn’t realise how much!

[@MrsYasha1984]

Damn... I just started making my stays with a bought pattern. :D

[@BliffleSplick]

Could do a version of this and see which one fits better? (bedsheets from second-hand stores are great for mock-ups if you're just trying to get proportions down)

[@MrsYasha1984]

I think I will try to see which one is better! Since I want a stays also for everyday wear, it's not wrong to have two or so. But this will take time, I'm not a very fast seamstress :)

[@KarinaDoRego]

I totally needed this video in October while drafting bodices for my daughters Schuyler sister dresses. Definitely doing a re draft.

[@livinlern]

i have an idea for an adjustment for large cup sizes especially for f cups and above. for those body shapes you need a different curve for the front half than the back half. otherwise it will be too low in front and too high in back as the breasts tilt the conical shape forward. my idea is to use what keystone calls the blade measurement (measures from your spine to about the center of your underarm) and 1/4 of the waist measurement to make the arc for the back. for the front use half of the bust measurement minus the blade measurement for the bust line, and once again use 1 quarter of the waist. i would cut out both shapes and tape them together and trace them to then make a pattern. I'm learning pattern drafting as so many commercial pattern are made for a c cup and would require a 10 cup size full bust adjustment and a narrow upper back adjustment if I want a really good fit.

[@Fuiotter]

A year later, but this sounds intriguing. Could you elaborate. How do I measure to my underarm? Arms out to the side? What does my arm have to do with my bust size? Like what you wrote makes my brain tingle, but I don’t fully understand. Sorry!

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I use the string method all the time in the armour shop, and I've used it sewing too! Thanks for coming up with something for those of us with bodies that don't fit well into patterns... I myself seem to be a brick with boobs, the "waist" measurement always ends up above the bottom of my ribcage which is absolutely NOT where I want any waistband, and why I tend to make really simple dresses rather than skirts or pants, thankfully men's cargo pants work on my shape.

[@elizharber3564]

New subscriber. I’m loving your videos. Short waisted, so this was really helpful.

[@neonpinkqueen1403]

While I am not fond of using math, this made it sound wonderfully simple and I'll have to give it a try when I make my own stays

[@reformvideos4303]

I'm trying this ASAP!

[@agimagi2158]

This is magic!!! Thank you so much for sharing this!

[@emylee4130]

I'm very curious to try this! Stays were next on my to try list anyway, so I may work on a pattern this weekend. It should be interesting as an experiment because I'm also short waisted and shorter waisted in the back, but I have about an 11 inch difference from bust to natural waist. No pattern just works for me generally.

[@LibertyElaine]

As someone with exactly your measurements (before I got pregnant anyway) THANK YOU. Bodies are weird, but this looks like it will help so much!

[@marquise5265]

This was super helpful! I bought one of those patterns you mention at the beginning, but I know it would take a lot of adjustments to make it right for me. Now I know what to look out for :)

[@WantedVisual]

Your hips can definitely be tilted. If it causes pain/discomfort/damage, or shows up suddenly, it needs to be corrected through physiotherapy/medical corseting/surgery. On most people, it just gets called swayback and makes your jeans gape at the end, and T-shirts ride up.

[@liscampbell7759]

OMG!! ThankYOU This will save me FOREVER! I was planning on upscaling an adult pattern for my daughter... now I can do this and SAVE a bunch of time. GENIUS. and not have to spend so much time in mock-up..can you figure this out for Regency? LOL

[@Nymque]

This is very fascinating!!!! 🥺 I've been wanting to make a pair of stays and it's kinda intimidating. This video gives me courage

[@cynthiaajmurray1827]

"that is why math exists" hahahaha! You're nerdy and dry humor is great! And thank you for your careful attention to detail. 😉

[@vivianagutierrez1966]

Absolutely brilliant!!!!

[@bookworm266]

I have a similar problem! I am short waisted and tilty waisted, so fitting my current Tudor bodice I simply *cannot* have it be the same height, level, at the front and back, because the top of my hips is barely lower than my underbust!

[@lindaabraham8715]

I love my dress form and I recommend getting one. However, there were problems. It took some time to adjust the dress form to my own shape, especially when I had to accept that my shoulders had become rounded with age. Padding the back has made all the difference for improving the fit of the back and sleeves. Another problem is that you'll want to order a size smaller than your smallest measurement (bust, waist, or hip) because you can make the dress form bigger, but not smaller. Unfortunately, the bust shape on dress forms is not realistic... I ordered the smallest size sold, but the bust is still too big for me, so I have to compensate, and also the underbust is too large to reliably fit a corset or stay. That said, the draping on a dress form is a lot of fun. If you are designing only, then definitely you have to have one. But if you have figure problems, try your best to get a custom dress form specific to your measurements, although these are quite expensive (and your body will change with age, if nothing else). Absolutely do NOT get a dress form with dials--these are a total waste of money.

[@an_evening_star_rose5991]

This is phenomenal, thank you so much!! Using this as a resource will make my life so much easier 🥰

[@sully9767]

Your audio is fine, don't worry about it. Great video, as always.

[@penelope-oe2vr]

Look at page 155 of Patterns of fashion 5. I had seen your video before seeing this page, and it is EXACTLY what you are taking about! I'm not sure if you've seen this already or not.

[@barbaraferron7994]

Can that be found on line? I need to see the pattern with the lines label as to which measurement goes where but I don't want to buy a book.

[@joakescarnival8303]

Ohhhh this is something i've wondered for so long!