SEIZED Engine Teardown! VW Beetle | What Happened?

[@bruscifer]

My Dad grew up a farm boy. Learned to be a Jack of All Trades. He trained to be a Machinist in the Army. When I was young he worked for a Volkswagen dealership as a mechanic for a short time. One of my fondest early memories is when he took me to work and let me help strip down a VW engine. I had no idea what I was doing. He handed me the pneumatic wrench, pointed at a bolt or a nut and said "...take that one out." I loved it. Unfortunately he also had metal health issues. Normally, he had no time or patience for little ol' me. That coupled with me having my own hearing issues it just didn't work. It's too bad. Now, at 69 I think how much I would have learned and loved working with my Dad. Today I watched this, and thought about it the whole time. If I was rich instead of so good looking, I would build me a shop. Gather the tools and the knowledge to spend my time restoring old VW bugs, and buses. Don't tell anyone, but I would restore and rebuild me some Willys Jeeps too. 😀I really enjoyed this.

[@VolksStokes]

I have that exact same yoke in same blue colour with the bench stand. It really helped a lot! And yes even I did not need to screw it and it tirned freely around making it easy for me to turn engine round n round and around multiple times. It was impossible to do engine rebuilding without it. Thx for sharing with us. It was like Blast from the Past! Wish you the best! Keep sharing with us this journey of how it goes

[@racer4901]

My sixteen year old self would put some bearings and rings on it and drive it for another 6 months lol

[@andrewzammitgerman2030]

Great video! Very fun watching, and learning too. Got my 63 not too long ago, these videos help teach a lot. Thanks for them!!

[@JamesDavis-jo9tk]

I was able to save a case that had thrown a rod on number 3. It took a small chunk of material from the bottom of the cylinder wall and case. The root cause was oil pump and bearing failure. These things are really durable.

[@badaxelbrewski]

You didn't torque the gland nut in last video. Not sure if the Milwaukee got you close to spec or not, but I am thinking not after seeing how the fly wheel fell off.

[@jonathanwoods9843]

That's a great point. I'd forgotten about that from the last video. It's an obvious point of failure, while the other stuff isn't.

[@FixinBugsNStuff]

I am sure the crankshaft is done too.

[@billcoomber4642]

I had the wrong gland nut rebuilding my 36hp, guy gave me a gland nut for a 40hp, which is longer. I torque it to spec but being longer, the flywheel was still lose...had to replace the crank as the pin holes were damaged like his here. A cock-eyed flywheel locks the engine up while trying to start, probably what destroyed the cam gear. Also surprised he forgot to pull the oil pump housing...then hammering against the fixed case half...hmmmm.

[@robj2704]

I rebuilt one of these engines in 1981. Don't remember much about it except machining the case halves to accept larger jugs and using dual port heads. I do remember it ran pretty well with a higher lift camshaft and a Holley Bug Spray carb.

[@davemurton736]

Really liked the Video, frustratingly, that for $85 you could get a pulley removal tool, a oil pump puller tool, and a crankcase splitter tool and saved yourself a lot of grief 😂😂😂

[@vintage76vipergreenBeetle]

You would think with all the vw swap meets in FL. He would have bought all the vw tools by now. He teardown a type 1 or type 4 once a month or so.

[@SanDiego_VDubLife]

Under the generator stand is the oil deflection plate to prevent oil from shooting out of the oil filler tube. It was oriented wrong too but no biggie. Should be two gaskets in there. One below and one above the plate. Like a sandwich.

[@pilotlars]

I came here to say this!! That screen was 90⁰ off! It's job is to redirect oil flung from the crankshaft and prevent it from being sucked up into the air cleaner.

[@worthmor5146]

It is pretty rough,. I would not trash the block yet, May be able to save it.

[@IanCampbell-sh3si]

alot of that you could reuse, new barrels and heads, bearing definatley a cam gear but unless you want it to be brand new I would rebuild it

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Oh damn!!! Don't toss the block until you check it well. Might still be good!

[@Mikefngarage]

I think its usable but still a 40 hp.

[@hardware5777]

Good video, buddy. I like watching the sausage get made....or in this case unmade 😊. Looking forward to you having Darren take a look. His content is the best when you're filming and learning.

[@jonpeters2700]

You need a VW Flywheel and Axle Nut Torque Multiplier to be able to get the bolt to the required torque.

[@PapiDoesIt]

I always used a homemade piece of iron to bolt to the block to keep the flywheel from turning, and a 5 foot long piece of pipe on the end of a breaker bar to torque it. Not very scientific or accurate, but I never had a failure.

[@oldscuba]

The two slots on the pulley is for a puller..

[@Business_Gator]

The case may be salvageable. I’d get the opinion of your engine guy. It would be neat to do a budget rebuild on it. Then you would have a functional spare long block in the shop for any future projects you pull out of a field. 😊

[@Marknmel1]

MIght have been salvageable until he pried on the machined surface with a giant screwdriver.

[@PapiDoesIt]

You can save that block and machine it for bigger jugs. It'd be nice to have a good, rebuilt 1300 single port on standby in storage for whatever you might find in the future. I swapped a 1600 dual port into a 63 but instead of clearancing the bellhousing I just ran the 6 volt flywheel. It was my daily driver and I had to get it swapped in over the weekend because I didn't want to ride my bike in the Winter rain. It worked fine.

[@type2523]

40:53 : poor sealing surfaces . Really hurts to watch

[@Marknmel1]

I stopped at this point. And now it's on KZbin forever as an instructional video. Yikes!

[@TheFurriestOne]

That end-play issue reminded me of a unique solution for excessive end-play I saw on TheSamba years ago. A bearing mounted on a sturdy bracket-arm so that its outer race rode against the outer lip of the crank pulley and kept it from sliding too far out. It worked to keep that engine alive until the owner could afford a new one! (through at least one replacement of the bearing running against the pulley!) 32:56 Oil gallery plug, where they had to fill a hole after drilling out the passage. There are several on the front of the engine and some on the rear, under the flywheel. The chemical eating away the gear was likely from moisture mixing with combustion byproducts in the old oil and creating an acidic compound.

[@docpalazola491]

Your content, CT, has really improved along with your mechanical skills. Great job!!

[@clintonhogue7258]

Should have torqued the flywheel nut when he put it back on?

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Hi CT, my last comment didn't go through using my tablet? Anyway have Darrin check this out first before tossing the case. The crank besides having to be oversized the dowel pin holes are either wiped out or could go oversize for new pins? But for an old 40hp single port probably not worth it. 1600 that Darrin has is way better for the car and you got a good start on the 12v flywheel clearance on the transmission case😂

[@cheagle464]

I did my vw engine in '75 when I was 17. Think I had a Clymer(?) manual. Got it in and out, tire down and back together by myself. Leaked like a sieve. Started rattling like, well, hand rattles. Dad took over and took it the VW dealer and had it done by a pro.

[@bruceanderson5525]

SO enjoyed this video CT!! Happy Fall from me and my cat Jazz!

[@brianw8963]

I know some of the older housings have to be clearanced to work with newer engines/ flywheels. First time I ever saw this method. 😂. Seriously though, I’ve never seen this , and I’ve been working on these since the late 70’s .

[@CTmoog]

haha! =) I wasn't expecting that....

[@stephencrowther524]

All because he didn’t torque the flywheel nut ! Why he thought that electric thingy would even remotely approach sufficient torque is beyond me. He’s a strange mix of expertise and ignorance.

[@daga68]

26:12 I see you are moving the engine freely with your bare hands, so, why does the title says "Seized engine" ?, don't get it...

[@johnfalkenstine8377]

Yup this is what you get when you don’t install the gland nut correctly.

[@jhh8688]

water is the demon that destroys those beautiful blocks

[@peternorin8554]

I learn so much every time I watch your videos, this is so good for future reference. Please keep going :D I actually got a replacement motor since the rest of the job is enough. But perhaps one of these days i get around to rebuilding the original one, who knows.

[@jonpeters2700]

It looks like the head bolts that came out brought the threads out with them, just what I said could happen back when you re-torqued them. If that was not a bad case, you would have to install oversize head bolts.

[@suzakule]

The gland nut was not tightened enough, that is why the flywheel failed, the case can be ultrasonic cleaned and line bored and re-used, it's most likely not ruined, same with the crank.

[@TinyHouseHomestead]

You can buy a PULLEY REMOVER! Helluuuuuuuuu! 😱😁😝🤪🤣👍👍🇺🇸

[@vintage76vipergreenBeetle]

CT needs to buy all the special vw tools for type 1 & 4 engines teardown videos.

[@Atomshamradio]

Hey ct . I was thinking about the clutch that will definitely lock the engine. That engine sounded really healthy. I can’t see how it would blow up, but I kind of figured would be that clutch would lock up lock it up.

[@carsman248]

I think this is user error, that would never come loose on its own. Something must have been not torqued right.

[@mitchgray8413]

Best to plug off that oil cooler and use an external cooler. Factory cooler blocks airflow to #3 cylinder and that usually where you'll find thrown rods and spun bearings.

[@jennysolomon-haase9103]

Love your detailed videos!

[@CTmoog]

Thank you! =)

[@Boozehero]

BTW, you are working against the engine cradle stand. If you worked the block the opposite way of the cradle stand, it would have split very easily...

[@SanDiego_VDubLife]

There is a case splitter tool. It goes where the oil pump is.

[@CTmoog]

I think I have one laying around somewhere....=)

[@Falconurbex]

Should have used heat on that bottom pulley pal it would have come of a lot easoer lol

[@johnreece3882]

All the bolts etc. have been on the engine since it was built in the VW factory, the beetle engine was made long before the Porch engine, Porche went together with VW to build the Karman Ghia , the body of the Ghia was designed by the body firm Carmanwhich built custom bodies for VW and also for the VW camper Buses that is the interior and roof designe, later Porche Designed their own engines. just a point, did you remove the slotted part under the distributor ? I have rebuilt two VW Bettles 70 /71 \and a CarmanGhia 1970.

[@worthmor5146]

This would be a good parctice block to repair. Probably make good content also.

[@CTmoog]

maybe...I might have some good parts laying around that came out of Georgia.

[@davidkornblatt851]

I always wondered can you put a dual carb 2.0 Porsche 4 in a beetle???

[@CTmoog]

Yes, you can put a Type 4 engine in there with a conversion kit. I was thinking about doing that at some point.

[@LeonieHall-c4o]

Oh my, back to my youth. Yep, we had that on our combie van. Also, leaving the tissue you cleaned the dipstick with in the engine bay is Fatal to an air cooled engine. Aw my miss spent youth.

[@jerryhubbard4461]

I had a 1961 and 63 bus. 1967 beetle, 1971 beetle and 1973 Super Beetle. I never had a 40 hp engine. My friend had a 59 bug with a 40 hp engine. You could not run fast enough to give me a 40 hp bug. Talking about NO power. I later had a 1973 914 Porsche and that little car was a blast to drive in the mountains. I think it was 1975 I had a Rabbit and that as the last of the VW's for me. Since, I have had nothing buy Toyota's.

[@mikedakin2016]

why ''teardown'' the engine when carefully dismantling it would be far more productive?

[@davidk6271]

Very much enjoyed this . Thanks for posting.

[@cloudjungle]

Sure the cam gear damage was not caused by the flywheel coming off.

[@CTmoog]

I don't think so...it's looks like old corrosion.

[@Mikefngarage]

water in that area of the case corroded the cam gear. sitting for a long time. best to tear them down.

[@bassdaze]

Torque, torque and torque... also a pully removal tool is your friend... that engine could've probably kept going another 30k miles

[@AndrewHCann]

Excellent video CT :) also wild what to the engine and have seen gear on Desiel motor worn on teeth like had rebuilt motor 100 % also fuel pump gear worn like that plus fuel injection pump had be rebuilt too! Also was on Farm tractor my late dad had on home farm plus PTO gears did when bearings seize up and oil changes 1 month before happened! Yes cost lots money but ran 100% okay afterwards! Fuel pump gear happen fuel injection pump also shock use tractor smoke blue at cold starts but clean up after 2 mins and ran okay no missed firing too! But mechanic rebuilt motor was shocked too and said never seen one gear did that in years and my dad was not under matinne up nothing he was on perfect service up again! Like dug in me and my 2 older said engine oil change 3 months, check brakes and etc month to pre trip to anything! Even fuel tank filled up and don't go 1/4 in good weather and Winter Season half tank ! He hated someone never listened to helpfull hints say you lose my gain !

[@oldscuba]

In the early 70's the Type 1 R&R was 16 flat rate hours. Easily done in an 8 hour shift. I was one of the higher paid VW mechanic's at $5.65 per flat rate hour.

[@hermes389]

Very good video. To finish that job that clean is my goal😅

[@keegs3154]

A little off topic but I'd like to try your method or using jack stands and hydraulic jack to drop the motor. Where on the chasey are you placing the jack stands?

[@SanDiego_VDubLife]

I think that case is toast, because of the corrosion where the oil screen goes. The lifter guides might be worn also among other case issues. But if you are gonna buy a new case, it's not worth it to buy a stock dual port 1600 because you can buy a ported and clearanced high performance case for a few hundred dollars more. Might as well get a dual relief case clearanced for bigger crank and pistons. If not get a good used case that is the correct size for that car. like a single port 1200 or whatever came stock and then go with a stock looking engine. single port small carb etc. if not might as well go for a dual port dual carb stroker. Mike F talks a lot about what size case and engine to go with if you are gonna do a rebuild.

[@johnreece3882]

Just one point, dont losse those two you call them washers fromthe bottom of the distributor drive, as they are spacer shimms spescificly for that engine, and by the way that engine is original from VW factry never rebuilt,you can save yourself a few bucks by taking the heads and blocks in one piece to a VW dealers and give it up in part exchange for a new block and heads , it come as is with no agregates, you can then put all the things back on,carb,distributor, exhaust,fan cowling and the rest of the extirior parts, also the distributor drve under the distributor, as it dosnt come withe new block and heads which are already assembled, just need to put all the exterior bits on, valves are pre ajusted and the vale seats are hardened to take un leaded fuel. best regards fron John from UK

[@robj2704]

That engine was going to erupt regardless of the flywheel debacle.

[@CTmoog]

Yes, it's a bit of a mess....

[@mikewilliams2072]

This engine looks good compared to some of the engines I worked on and ran on t h e dune buggies we were running back in the day!!!!!

[@pauljanssen7594]

Yepper at the shop we used to torque the flywheel to 250 lb, and then we would get the cheater pipe with our huge breaker bar and just talk him by feel. Once we torque a cheap gland nut and it broke.

[@telposh]

I never expected that outcome☹ Maybe someone poured some chemical as muriatic acid for cleaning, maybe, and let it sit forever, who knows, but very sad finally. For me, has been just a great learning experience about VW engines, since all my life was involved with such fun cars, and I never saw how it was designed by that incredible engineer Ferdinand Porsche. Thank you, big man!!

[@jurgenkuhlmann9194]

I suppose this Beetle was beaten until final breakdown! In other words: there is a big difference between moderate driving plus care, and rocking down a vehicle with NO care - isn't it?

[@48busman]

I can see a wrist pin bushing coming out of one of the rods. Definitely has seen some miles.

[@jeffjones4006]

Great tear down video

[@BigDwww]

Those 2 holes in the pully is so you can use a puller.

[@CTmoog]

that thing was stuck on tight...but a puller might have been good to use.

[@stephankochmann3762]

Hey, quickly that next video PLEASE👍👍👍

[@DemopVWgarage]

That case is usable compered to my 52 case I had to restore ;) Looks like water was in it also which caused the corrosion.

[@MikeMoose67]

Very cool video 👍 !!!

[@andersaxelsson2196]

Im really picky when Im in my garage fixing things. Used old shoes old working pants and t shirt. Never using other things

[@CurtisHarshey]

If you have the right tools.... it goes a lot faster Do not use this video for factory instruction, this is more shade tree mechanics disassembling an engine.

[@martinmoffitt4702]

CLAW HAMMERS SCARE ME!

[@CTmoog]

haha! =)

[@Volkswagenplanet]

Good to see your still into VW. How has Darrin been?

[@5150mxVW]

9:59 haha..cup shot

[@CTmoog]

hole in one! =)

[@PaulRansonArt]

Such a shame to see a lack of maintenance caused this engine to die. I've rebuilt more of these than I care to think. If looked after they will all do 100K

[@paulbickmore4523]

Way to get after it!!

[@mikewilliams2072]

I don't mean to criticize the way you do this but you and me do things differently from what I was doing working on these engines 60 years ago when I was a kid, I built quite a few of these mostly 40 hp and a couple 36hp and a few 53 hp engines!!

[@nickoD509]

This is an example of why I don't like the "will it run" videos. When I get an old car that I want to work on, I'm tearing it down and checking everything.

[@Stoneagesmoker]

That’s an oil baffle gasket under oil filler alt stand, it was in the wrong way, it’s suppose to stop oil from flinging off cam gear up into the oil filler alt stand creating a leak

[@craigchriston5084]

Why don't you buy a gear puller for the pully. Mr. Einstien.

[@mikewilliams2072]

Don't you just love to see an auto mechanic using a claw hammer!

[@Marknmel1]

I cringed to watch when you jammed a giant screwdriver into a machined surface when you parted the case. You may not care, but the next guy might. That case may have been salvageable, now it will always leak.

[@Bugsyerin5646]

Engine of genius. Look at a tool by Knipex called the the Raptor.

[@billhendricks7889]

Who ever worked on this engine was a novice. The flywheel wasn’t torqued properly. The air deflectors for the cylinders are missing. The fuel pump rod guide was installed before the distributor drive. The head studs are likely pulled and need to be torqued to fifty ft lbs before removing the heads. To remove the ft Lully without damage, apply pressure with a large screwdriver and use a chatter gum in the pulley nut hole carefully not to damage the treads.

[@surindersandhi3924]

Hi My Dear Friend Very Very Good Job ❤❤❤❤❤

[@ineverhadthemoney7857]

use your impact gun faster by 1/2 hour all nuts and bolts//longer extension then the socket

[@davidsanderson3902]

I have had flywheel come loose, 😢 , i got myself one of those torque multipliers and so far

[@ericvonp]

Back in the 60’s my dad put a 911 engine in his and raced it as a sleeper. Put a 350 in his bike. Fool is still alive too

[@Marknmel1]

The chemical that ate that camshaft gear was dihydrogen monoxide. Terrible what it will do to aluminum and magnesium.

[@georgebourgeois8978]

silly question from okd man could you put a lycoming plane engine in there

[@cateward7043]

OMG! How frustrating!

[@stoveguy2133]

First car was 65 bug with bad motor. We put in a 1600cc dp motor. Was peppy

[@oldscuba]

Typically #3 cy.l seizes due to the oil cooler blocking air flow around #3.

[@allenschmitz9644]

I was hoping he would show us gum wrappers he found underneath the seats.😮

[@brucegillies1694]

Tutorial on how not to disassemble many items !

[@jerryhubbard4461]

The oil definitely has water in it. Must be a head gasket.

[@amend5269]

Did it clog the oil cooler?

[@jonpeters2700]

It would have been easier to remove the clamps that mount the muffler to the heat exchangers.

[@Atomshamradio]

That’s amazing it ran it did sucks it’s toast😢

[@mikewilliams2072]

When was the last time you saw someone use a claw hammer for a punch?

[@amend5269]

Removing the starter would show the problem.

[@jasonmorris858]

If the casing isn't cracked where the oil cooler sits then aehy would hang onto the casig

[@TN-oc3cw]

I'm the kind of guy that would throw new bearings and PnCs in it, and run it.