Self Cleaning Kerosene Heater Wick Trick

[@Vinwelder]

So this one you partially got correct. When you let a K1 heater run out of fuel ultimately what you're doing is doing a clean burn/cleaning the wick. What's happening is on all kerosene related wicks, heaters and lamps, carbon builds up on the end of the wick and makes it so fuel can't carry to the end of said wick and must be cleaned off to work properly. Now this is the part that most of us get wrong, including myself in the past. Most of us think the wick is ruined at that point, unless we read and remember the full manual that came with the heater. The part about this video that isn't correct is that a kerosene heater has to have the proper flame height otherwise it will give off carbon monoxide, black soot, or both. Having the flame too low is what is most known for the carbon monoxide, and you high puts off black smoke and carbon monoxide. Letting the flame run out of fuel does several things: it puts out larger amounts of carbon monoxide, gives off a pretty strong odor, and can create black smoke sometimes. In the manuals, and what is recommended for all heaters, it specifically says to drain the kerosene once a week of regular use, and then to light it and let it burn itself out of kerosene. The critical part is this is supposed to be down outside because it's unhealthy to breathe in what comes off the wick. People die every year from improperly running their K1 heaters, but really it just takes a little knowledge on the topic to have it run safely and efficiently. If you do this regularly then a wick can last many years as the top of all these wicks isn't cotton but fiberglass, the lower portion is cotton. My current wick is 8 years old now and still works like new. Hope this helps guys. Sorry this was so long...😂

[@rezzierezz6059]

Nope, don't be sorry...this helped me out more than the vid!

[@jazzsounds8159]

Some say crush the top of the wick with needle nose pliers and then dry burn? Is this correct?

[@Vinwelder]

@@jazzsounds8159 if you're cautious enough sure. Basically you would only use the pliers to crush any very thick parts of built up carbon. But the tops of the wicks are fiberglass, so you gotta be cautious not to ruin that as the fiberglass is pretty thick. But you should be able to use the rest of the top for comparison and only crush the thicker parts. If in doubt then skip the pliers as that part isn't necessary in any way. It just speeds up the process a lil. You should check the wick after the dry burn to confirm its clean. Once you do it a few times you'll understand the process a little better, bit it's close to foolproof imo. 👍

[@jazzsounds8159]

@Vinwelder I think I let go too long, I crushed the carbon build-up with pliers on top. Wasn't thinking about the fiberglass. We'll see tonight if it lights. A full tank of fuel took over 24 hours for a dry burn.

[@Vinwelder]

@@jazzsounds8159 Sorry I should've probably said this, but a dry burn is exactly that. Meaning you're purposely removing the K1 from the tank so it's empty. Then you bring it outside, light it, and let it smolder outside as it's gonna be super stinky stuff that smokes quite a bit. So you're literally trying to burn it until it extinguishes itself completely. Then and only then will the wick be cleaned. I'm not saying you didn't, but IF you didn't let it smolder then it has to be redone. I'm assuming you did this part though. If you don't have one a siphon is required to remove the K1 from the tank. A cheap old fashioned manual one works just fine, but nowadays for people that can't be bothered they have battery powered ones which are awesome a very fast. I got my original at home depot. I think I bought my 2nd one off ebay for pretty cheap. Hope this helps. I just had to go buy K1 myself as we're bout to get 2 more feet of snow here in Maine tonight/tomorrow. 😭

[@johnwyman6331]

There are two different styles of wicks. The older types of kerosene heaters use 100% cotton wicks. The newer types of kerosene heaters from about the mid-seventies on typically use a cotton wick with fiberglass sewn around the top. Many of these use a catalytic converter which makes it too hot to use an all cotton wick. Impurities in the fuel can collect at the top of the wick and make a hard "crust" which interferes with proper burning. The two different styles of wicks have two different ways of curing the problem. Don't get them confused. The fiberglass topped wicks can be burned dry by running it out of fuel in order to remove the crust. On the all cotton wicks, we are to use a wick cleaner supplied by the manufacturer (or eBay / Amazon) of the heater. It shaves off a small amount of the top of the wick leaving a perfect bevel. Do not dry burn an all cotton wick, it will burn up the top of the wick. Many heaters have a real hard time with red dyed kerosene, use Clear 1K kerosene if possible. Sometimes even clear kerosene can give odors. If so try another source. Near me it's around 4 to $5 a gallon at the pump, and about 10 to 12 dollars a gallon on the shelves in the stores. For more fantastic information about kerosene appliances, a great source for very high quality wicks and chimneys for heaters, lamps, and stoves, check out milesstair.com

[@DougHinVA]

good info!

[@badassbees3680]

Thanks

[@swervsplatt9672]

In just 1 year. Dyed kerosene is 8.30 at the pump. Clear is 38 for 2 gallons... Edit: a single 380 Hornady critical defense round is like 1.50. Leaning more towards that option everyday..😔

[@sisterspooky]

There’s no reason to burn it out every single time. You’ll burn that wick up prematurely doing that. You should let it burn out every 3 or 4 cycles. That’s plenty to burn the stuff off of it and keep it operational.

[@IndependantW]

Hey Joe, thanks for the tip. I've been using kerosene heaters in my old colonial house for two decades and always tried to brush the wick clean. It didn't work all that great. But burning the wick dry according to your instructions certainly worked for me. When the thing had self-extinguished I checked the wick and it was clean, white, and flexible with no carbon crud build-up. It surprised the hell out of me. I've been doing this all winter and spring this past year and have been getting a better burn and longer wick life.

[@dangerdavefreestyle]

I noticed brushing it with an old toothbrush rips it up and makes fuzzies all over that get stuck in the nooks and crannies and have to be blown out/vaccuumed out, so i just wiggle it to and fro with a screwdriver and do the dry burn method.

[@sjmiller6012]

Good info. Thanks.

[@voyager202000]

Hey friend, THANK YOU!!! Since I tried your trick on letting the kerosene completely burn out instead of turning it off the way I used to, it’s been starting quicker, burning much better and the icing on the cake, I have a new one to replace the old wick after the winter is over and should last an entire winter next year! So many thanks!!

[@josephramus2392]

You do not have to replace the wick every year. I did not replace the wick in the one I used for 4 years. I will take his advice on only filling it up to capacity but only a third full. this way it lights easier and the last lite you can let it burn out to clean the wick and should last longer.

[@maverickm933]

We have two kerosene heaters for this exact reason. We run our kerosene heaters 24/7 throughtout our NY winters. We light up the 2nd ready to burn heater, when the 1st heater is ready for a burnout to clean the wick. We switch out each heater after one week(24/7 for 7 days). Probably could run each one longer than that but choose to use them not abuse them. We use clear kerosene only and add aprx. 2 tablespoons 90% isopropyl rubbing alcohol to the tank(2.5gal) each time we refill the tank. We replace wicks each year though to be honest they look in near to excellent condition after the end of winter/spring season burnout. It took us a few seasons when we first started with the heaters to get over the learning curve but once we did it was so much cheaper(versus other sources of heat) , easier (we are pushing our senior years), and cleaner. Also there is no adjusting the heat output with the heaters. You have to have the flame adjusted to the right height to avoid odor, and tar build up on the wick. We've learned to wait the 5mns. after first lighting, readjust flame height, wait 1/2hr, readjust one more time, then we are good to go for the whole week , refilling only when needed. When it gets too hot (rarely in our old drafty home) we open windows.

[@Erix7810]

Maverick M Is this a cost effective practice? I live in Michigan and have considered doing what you do, but pay 3.99/gal for kerosene.

[@lrak228]

Kerosene is $10 a gal in Connecticut! 12/14/18

[@MarkHicks326]

@@lrak228 in stores but try to buy K1 at a gas station $4/gal

[@funkyprepper]

I like the idea of using ipa in the fuel tank, I'll try this when the fuel tank runs out. After I've dry burned off the wick to clean it. Thanks for thr tip

[@MrQuintonia]

Not very helpful as you didn't show how you cleaned it????????

[@victoryfirst2878]

Thank you for the video Joe. YOU taught me a good bit about a kerosene heater wick. And a new wick supplier that sells wicks made in ENGLAND !!! Can you tell me why you put a all cotton wick instead of a cotton fiberglass one Joe ???

[@Festusthewonderdog]

I burn mine dry about every 30 gallons...or when it takes longer to light and longer to get a steady burn. And remember to dump the wick to the bottom of the reservoir and let it soak up new kerosene for an hour before you attempt to relight it.

[@Bear1953kw]

Kerosine heater tips learned the hard way! If cash is tight then might I suggest a Kerosine heater? We have both types, convective, (round type) and radiant, (rectangular type). We supplement them with calor gas heaters. Our heating bills for the last two winters average out to Euro 150.00 for the entire winter which is as cheap as it gets. People are put off Kerosine by the smell but with modern types this can be minimised. Clean modern fibre glass wicks can be dry burned to return them to pristine condition. Here are some tips about using these heaters:- Kerosine heater tips learned the hard way! The solution with our convective heater, (the round type) is to fill and light it up outside, wick fully extended and let it burn like that for a full five minutes. Then turn It down to the desired amount and then take it back into the house. A full tank will I burn for approx 14 hours at minimal cost so it's the most economical way to go. With our Alpaca heater, (Korean make) after the outdoor five minute burn, adjust the flame so the blue flame disappears into the red hot catalytic perforated cylinder (at the top!) Don't turn it down too much or it will smell. With these types of heater there is really only one setting, full on! So buy the correct size of heater for the room. Most importantly leave a window slightly open because the heater must have ventilation. Not doing so is REALLY dangerous! (A smoke and Co alarm detector is also an excellent idea!) If you can cope with these simple and sensible requirements then you will gain an incredibly efficient and economical way to heat your house at minimal cost to yourself! We also have gas heaters and the combination of these and the kerosine/paraffin heaters fulfils all our winter heating needs. In addition it is essential to ‘dry-burn’ the heaters after a certain number of uses. (I work on it being three full tank fills) simply put the heater outside when it’s almost empty and, with wick fully extended, let it burn out! This simple action returns the heater wick to new condition. Our radiant heater, (rectangular type) works in a slightly different way. Fill the heater fuel tank which is on the right hand side and, once filled and the screw top firmly turned to tight, turn the large knob on the front full clockwise till it can go no further then depress the ignition button. Hold this till you see flames at the lower visible section of the wick. Once it is really going turn the large knob down a little bit to avoid smoke and smell. It should go well at this stage. Don’t just press the emergency stop button at the end of the burn because the loud bang that you hear can damage the mechanism. Hold the large knob then press the off switch and then turn the knob to the off position slowly and without damage. As with the round type heater, perform regular dry burns OUTSIDE! (This avoids the smoke and smell in the house!) Let the tank burn out completely with wick fully extended. This primes the wick for many further burns. Not performing dry burns will eventually render the heater useless! The wick will get progressively more and more difficult to light, it will burn with a redder and less radiant light and will eventually fail. The wick will be visibly crusted at the top. Dry burns are essential! Hope this helps. Oh, and do use a Smoke and Carbon Monoxide alarm for safety and peace of mind. Have I missed anything? Hope this helps because it’s a GREAT and cheap form of heating. Finally, never use anything but Kerosine! Always have a window cracked open for ventilation and keep the wick primed by dry burning. Sorry, this is wordy!

[@DougHinVA]

long but valuable. In the USA, use only K-1 kerosene as fuel and if you can afford propane gas logs or heater, that is simpler and when the tank of propane is empty, you can get by with a kerosene heater. I have the local service fill my propane tank in the fall and when trees fall on to electric lines, I can at least keep the house warm for a week. Keep K-1 kerosene and a few lanterns for light for when there is no electricity. You cannot recharge batteries with no electricity!

[@DougHinVA]

good tip and simple to do ! It's much like running all the remaining fuel out of a 2-cycle engine before storing for winter (chainsaw, blower, trimmer,mower, power washer). Dump all the fuel from the tank and then pump the bulb and then empty again and start the device and rock it as it runs totally dry of fuel ....The better solution for NO ELECTRICITY is have propane logs and an outside large propane tank. Mine will run on 'low' for 7 days and keep my brick rancher house tolerably warm. My fireplace is larger since the house was made in the mid 1950s and I have a 2-level propane log set installed. K-1 kerosene heaters are for when the propane is all used up and you have to get by until electricity and/or propane is restored.

[@TheTreasureCellar]

It worked for me! I let all the fuel burn out and my wick which was stuck is now clean and moves up and down with ease!

[@bonitajones430]

My heater says to dry burn the wick once a week. You let it burn all k1 out and then raise wick fully up and light the wick again until it goes out. Take a toothbrush or similar brush and brush the wick and wipe away the particles. I don't do it that often but I also use wick cleaner additive to my K1 kerosene.

[@superishy]

Thanks for the Vid. I recently purchased a New in Box heater similar to this one. After about 5 burn sessions, it seemed like the wick wasn't burning evenly as it did during the first run. I didn't know that wick life is extended by letting the heater burn itself dry. Also, have you heard of adding a TBS of denatured alcohol to a tank to clean the wick as it burns a tank dry? Any advice for minimizing the kerosene vapors in the house? Last time they were entirely too intense, I had to crack a few windows and let old man winter clear the house. Thanks again for showing a noob the ropes.

[@XRayCam]

superishy You shouldn't really be getting odors. Be sure wick has been cleaned monthly. Use one of those red and white self priming plastic hoses to fill maybe. And don't spill any fuel on outside of heater or in house. I usually took mine outside to shut down or immediately after. If you trip the safety and the wick drops to off position....hurry to take outside for a bit :-)

[@xraycam3709]

+恵勇気 very good information. Thanks

[@ronb67]

Dry burn outside, duh.

[@michelle81477]

Good video , I have used these heaters for years and yes burning it dry does clean the wick! :-)

[@LisaDianeRN]

Have you ever had one to not light at all? All of a sudden, I can't get mine to light (I'm trying to manually light it with a lighter, and it will not light)... What do I need to try first?

[@cameragirlish]

Thanks for the helpful video. I just bought an Aladdin TR 5000 for $15 off Craigslist today and had it working tonight in the garage. Worked just great and looks as if it has had little use. I didn't get a manual with it and have tried to find one online but all the sites I find want me to sign up for something or other. Would anyone happen to know where I can download the manual I need....??? Thanks for all your help.

[@DougHinVA]

Contact the maker of that kerosene heater and ask for a manual.

[@eielson1978]

If the wick is as dirty as described in the video. Take a butter knife using the side of the blade to bend the wick to the outside of the burner a bit . This will dislodge some of the crusting on the wick allowing it to light and burn it on high with about a cup or 2 of K-1 in it until it burns out. Lower the wick for 30 minutes. Raise the wick to High and relight it and leave it on high to burn out again. Let it cool and then brush the top of the wick and burner area to remove any residue. Refill and your ready for the Cold.

[@garymoore2188]

Thank u so much my wick wasn't lighting all the way around, I read ur comment and as I write this I have the butter knife out scraping the wick.. thanks..

[@redroc7866]

The manufacturer's instructions that comes with all kerosene heaters plainly states how to get rid of carbon build up on your wick and it works every single time if followed. NOTE: DO ALL DRY BURNS OUTSIDE ON A NON WINDY DAY AS IT CAUSES A LOT OF ODOR. NEVER DO A DRY BURN INDOORS!! With the tank almost empty light your heater and turn the wick up to it's highest setting and simply let it burn all of the fuel from the tank. When the flame goes out allow it to cool for just a bit and light it again on it's highest wick setting and burn out again. Allow to cool, remove the top and inspect the wick. Should be free from any carbon or hard deposits. You may need to pinch the wick to see if it is free from the carbon. Redo a dry burn if needed. Replace the wick if needed as well. Before using your heater again fill it with fuel and allow the wick to soak for at least 60 minutes with the wick turned all the way down. This will ensure the wick is completely saturated with fuel before lighting. Do a "dry burn" once a week to once every two weeks depending on how often you use your heater. Consistent "dry burn" will assure your wick stays in great condition and will last a long time.

[@sswcustomcyclesswcustomcyc7948]

red roc this is excellent and true information I agree 100%

[@putheflamesoutyahoo1503]

cotton , fiberglass, or both?

[@becauseamerica9679]

Mine wouldn't light with button but would with a match because the little electric current wouldn't catch the charred part. I'm going to have to run it all night hopefully it will clean it. She came in handy from Friday to yesterday though. I swear power went out for most of Saturday and the style like yours and a square black one I have saved my life

[@vwtim3118]

I have this same type. Thanks for the info buddy.

[@ladyjustice6110]

My son is experiencing exactly what you did and hopefully its the same problem. Hes working on it now.

[@ChrisHardwickanimaladventures]

Does it smoke when it runs out of fuel? Do you need to move it out of the house?

[@greenacres1739]

yes

[@theozarksjourneytoself-suf5420]

I need some advice.. I recently changed the wick on my kerosene heater... before this I never had this problem.. but occasionally, I cannot get the fire to extinguish, and the fumes are really bad. I turn the wick all he way down, and there is still a fire going... and the fumes as I said are pretty bad. Also, when starting the fire, it blazes really high. Way higher than it ever went before I changed the wick. Do you think there could be a problem with the wick???

[@ModernSurvivalSense]

Make sure the wick is installed properly, so that it's not sticking out when all the down. There should be installation lines on the wick. It sounds like that may be the issue. There will be some odor when turning it off, but it should extinguish itself when you turn the wick down. It has been a while, but I had that exact problem after installing a new wick and that was my issue. I adjusted the wick and it resolved the issue.

[@allaround200]

a few things make sure your wick is going down properly when you extinguish it, when installing a new wick make sure it's in low position or it will not install correctly. next check the part above the wick and make sure it does not have ant soot on it where it meet the wick this will make that area burn high and smoke. and keep wick clean by burn it out outside then hit with a dry toothbrush, lower and refuel. also I wouldn't burn dry everytime maybe every three tanks full just look at wick to see if it starting to get carbon buildup.

[@tedjones3237]

Ozark Plateau Journey To Self-Sufficiency ha dummy your wick need proper height adjustment it's called calibrating measure it again or look it up or Google it!!!!

[@theozarksjourneytoself-suf5420]

Thanks for your nice advice :) I really am not very smart about this type of thing.. just trying to learn.

[@jeepman-nu9ls]

Make sure that the chimney is situated correctly on top of the burn chamber. The flame sounds like it is getting too much air and over firing. If there is a door on the front, open it and make sure everything is level. I had a similar problem caused by the heater just being slightly out of adjustment causing the flame to burn really high.

[@CGJUGO80]

so that's why i couldn't light mine normally the way i used to anymore. but i've just been using a lighter to ignite the spot and sooner or later, sometimes a half hour even, it turns fully on. sounds hazardous now that i know all of this though. lol. can it just be opened and cleaned through some sort of method involving certain cleaning products?

[@gavinh7729]

Thanks for the clip, as I'm new this type of heating, I appreciate the info.

[@williammills8953]

I changed my wick. And I'm still having issues of it not burning right. Could my kerosene cartridge tank not allowing fuel pass through enough

[@jumper780]

There is no reason to let the heater burn itself out every time. I have had one for years and that is why the heater has a shut off valve. The best thing to do is to just replace the wick with a quality one (from Mr. Wick or OEM) once a year, but if you are not willing to spend the $12 then dry burn the wick on an empty tank after crushing the wick tip with some pliers. Once the crush and burn is completed, make sure that the wick is no longer than 10mm above the base.

[@XRayCam]

Martin Garcia Why fill up the land fill with 4 or 5 perfectly good wicks....waste of money, near an hour with clean up each time, and you will have that odor around for awhile. Take a couple minutes of hands on labor and let time and fire do the work for you :-)

[@RCThis]

Do you burn the wick dry with everything assembled or take it apart to burn the wick dry??

[@DougHinVA]

@@RCThis ... he means only put a limited amount of fuel (high grade kerosene only) in the tank and burn it until all the fuel is gone and the last of it drawn into the wick is also burned up.

[@MarkHicks326]

@@RCThis assembled

[@Cheryl_izzy]

Just bought one so thank you for the info cause I'm iced in

[@tellitlikeitis1828]

I have the exact same problem with that same heater. The problem is the wick retractor doesn’t retract deep enough to completely snuff out the flame. I have a 35 year old Kerosun by Toyotomi, with the original wick...I have tried to never let it burn out dry.

[@TonyFreeman-LocoTonyF]

This video is very helpful. I have the same problem that you described.

[@ModernSurvivalSense]

Tony Freeman awesome! I’m glad I could help :)

[@edselman58]

It's called "dry-burning" the wick.If you use your heater on a regular basis,you must dry burn the wick every 2 or 3 tank fulls using {clear} 1-K kerosene.Red dye type sold in some regions of the country have to be burned more often.when tank is almost empty,turn wick adjusting dial all the way up and burn rest of the fuel out.This process helps burn-off carbon and tar deposits on top of wick.Do this twice and lastly carefully {with a paper towel or old toothbrush} rub top of wick off.If done correctly,most of the tar deposits will burn off first before you wipe the wick clean.Also,don't use cheap wicks.Hattensley wicks (purchase from ebay or milesstair.com)are best to use.Cheap wicks are thin resulting in an uneven burn causing burner to not put out or maintain steady even heat resulting in sooting and carbon deposits to build up faster on the wick which also causes odors.Always dry burn the wick outside or in a room with window up.

[@LisaDianeRN]

What if it won't light at all?

[@sswcustomcyclesswcustomcyc7948]

edselman58. I agree with you 100% you are correct. Miles Stair is the expert on kerosene heaters. His wicks are the best quality you can buy.

[@wemcal]

Great video and great information

[@georgiebearpaws]

So the bottom line is, you should burn the wick dry to keep it clean, or brush the wick after burning dry. I think with the gradient heaters, you should be able to take out the removable tank each time and let the heater just burn off whats left in the reservoir. Make life a little easier.

[@davesmith-rs1yo]

No, because the tank sit on a safety level with is pressed down when tank is in place, this effects the control/slider switch. Plus you would leave the fuel in the reservoir exposed.

[@mgoody8782]

It’s not cotton the burner top is fiberglass sewn into a cotton mop type wick

[@aaround]

Thank you for your helpful video, George

[@jamesmichael8549]

How do I shut off A Kero Heat Heaters that does not shut off ? I tried shutting it off to the Shut off Manual and it is still running ? I tried the Adjusting Range But it is still going .

[@christhomas9624]

Very Correct - ONLY! use Clear, K1 Kero (Much Cleaner Burn) - Let it run completely out of fuel - an old Toothbrush will work to clean wick - Clean every 3-5 tanks - Change wick every year - Mine is 10 yrs old & Works Great !!!!!

[@edselman58]

Forgot to mention,you cant dry burn cotten wicks,only fiberglass type.The cotton wicks if dry burned will burn down 1/4 inch each time you do this.You might get by doing this 2 or 3 times,but it would result in too short a wick to use.Fiberglass type wicks have cotton sewn on bottom to saturate the fuel.Cotton works burn fine,just dont dry burn those types.You can use pluers or pinch top every so often to break off carbon/tar deposits.

[@tonyboggs4485]

THAT'S RIGHT, ITS OK TO LEAVE OIL IN IT.NEVER LET IT RUN OUT IF YOU DO NEED TO GET ANOTHER WICK.

[@SK-nk6vi]

So I must have a cotton wick.....I've had my heater for only this winter...use it every day. I've tried dry-burning it several times, and that does not work. I am now at the point where the flame is uneven and most of it does not even curl over the top. I am not sure what to do from here. I would like to get a new wick, but I don't have a clue how to put a new one in. Most men know how to do this, but I'm not a man, and I'm kind of lost here. Can anyone possibly direct me to a good and easy to understand you tube video about installing a new wick?

[@napalmholocaust9093]

More than 30 years later I still have the scars from one of those. I was 3 and fell onto it. It took the skin off my hands. Don't remember.

[@tophoca]

...and still I didn't get to see his 'wick'

[@shadesmagazine]

You DIDN'T should how to SELF-CLEAN the wick.

[@bonedoc4556]

did you listen to the video?

[@bull5919]

+Bone Doc uh no because hes speaking very damn softly and low

[@Boobtube.]

uh, it self cleans while it burns out of fuel... really not a way to "show" that...

[@joaquinsuarez6090]

I didn't use mine for a year and now it turns on but is making a lot of smoke and had to turn it off. Any idea what is wrong?

[@henrytjernlund]

If anything (like a spider that has built a web) has gotten into the internal part that controls the fuel and air flow then yeah that will can make it smoke (heavily). I had to disassemble and clean mine, then it stopped smoking.

[@joaquinsuarez6090]

@@henrytjernlund Great, I will have to do that. Thanks

[@hankandrox]

You’re supposed to burn them dry a few times to clean the wick. Do a little research and it will tell you to light it a few time while empty.

[@franksummerlin3422]

How did the wick get charred in the first place? It was from someone burning diesel in their kerosene heater.

[@ModernSurvivalSense]

It was from turning it off multiple times without running out the fuel

[@sjmiller6012]

Good info. Thanks.

[@garyr7027]

I've heard wicks with fiberglass tops work better and last longer, doesn't get this buildup at the top near as bad... is this a fact?

[@jameswise7720]

Thank u U saved my sanity...

[@fredguldbrandsen2723]

thanks for keeping it succinct

[@franklinhughes7010]

even the manufacturer says to "dry burn" the heater once a week. Dry burning is burning all the fuel out of it then resetting the wick to off for 30 minutes then relighting and let it burn off again. you do this out doors. This removes the carbon build up on the top of the wick

[@franklinhughes7010]

Ive been running dyed off road diesel not sure if its number 1 or 2 in my dyno kerosene heater. I bought the heater new and have never put 1-k fuel in it, going to put the third full tank of fuel in it tonight, it lights just fine, extinguishes just fine, no odor when shutting it off and no black soot at all, the top of the wick looks new and still clear/white i am amazed at the softness of the wick as well. ill never put 1-k in my heater

[@mikeknight4039]

People read your instructions manual. The problems this guy faced are covered in the instructions. He is basically dry burning it every night. What he is probably not saying is that it stinks fairly decent towards the end. There is no need to run it dry and as one guy said it will cause problems with the wick. The manual suggests for mine every 3 tanks which are about 24-30 hours. I use mine in my basement every day during the winter so typically I dry burn once a week. I wait until i see the flame out and move it to my bilco.

[@jefffloyd3480]

Lotta Talking Wheres The Wick Cleaning Part Homey Geeezzz

[@USSHammerology]

He let's the fuel run out and that s what keeps the wick soft. Shut it off manually a few times and the top of the wick will get crusty and won't absorb enough fuel to light.

[@dm2727x]

I replaced my wick and now when i hit the shut off the wick drops too low so when i raise it all the way it doesnt light now

[@ModernSurvivalSense]

It sounds like you will likely need to reinstall the wick so it sits higher.

[@rhondafetting2029]

Volume to low very hard to hear

[@ratherretro7694]

Before lighting mine i brush the wick with a wire brush and that helps keep the black build up at bay and the wick burns much better

[@eddiespencer1]

You didn't show how to perform a dry burn of the wick, though.

[@robinhardison5817]

He told you. If you don't let it burn until it runs out of kerosene it gets a build up on the wick. So every few tanks, let it burn until it runs out of kerosene.. manufacturer recommended every 2-3 tanks (about 3 gallons) to dry burn it... in other words let it burn until the wick is dry/goes out on it's on. Most people don't do it that often and still get years of use out of it. But it needs to be done periodically.

[@joeyblocker6517]

How did you clean it.👎

[@derekstorey5889]

Nice wick!

[@LisaDianeRN]

What could be going on, when you try to turn off the heater by lowering the wick, but the fire will not go out.... and the fumes are pretty bad. Ever since I changed the wick, I've noticed this happening from time to time... I never experienced this until after changing the wick. As well, when I light the heater, the flame burns excessively HIGH.

[@randyw5703]

Lisa Hurley your wick is installed too high

[@tedjones3237]

Lisa Hurley your wick is to dam high !_you should check your manual or look it up! Google it!!! then reinstall the wick and test?

[@kimchan2108]

This unit works very well kzbin.infoUgkxl2o1MQU4aMgmFk_cMqer4nH2ptpDEM6h Considering the price I paid for this, I didn't have high expectations, but now after using it, I consider this is a well designed heater. Do be aware that doing the dry burn on the wick as recommended (or at least every two tanks) is absolutely necessary to avoid an unclean burn, fortunately it's easy enough to do. I'm burning dyed K1 kerosene and do a dry burn every two tanks and this is working great. This unit will heat a little over the 500 square feet that it is rated for depending on the temperature. On days it isn't bitter cold this heater will do a fair amount more. This makes an excellent emergency heat source, and also in my situation, it is a little more efficient than the electric heat in the teen temps and below.

[@michaelgibbons6294]

Being i burn ruby diesel in my fanco. i am having to dry klean it every two tank fuels. Kerosene here is $4.00 and the RUBY DIESEL is $2.39 gallon. Kerosene is just about worhtless overpriced crap here. $4.00 a gallon. It helps alot keeping DRY CLEANING the heater. Helps get rid of the char crap.

[@MrABUAAKEF]

Good enplane about wick. thanks

[@3soulsentertainment]

dud you shaved me. thanx for the video :)

[@ModernSurvivalSense]

Anytime!

[@deadcat3602]

Shaved ! ? Ewwww !

[@tyroneperry5008]

Thanks.

[@missey3164]

Let it burn out completely then refill and let wick soak for a good hour about every 5th tnk

[@albertsparrow9485]

Completely out of gas.... kaboom😂😂😂

[@Poncho758]

Thank you

[@leonarddutra1739]

thanks joe big help

[@xenoptryx]

Low audio

[@PillarStrength]

Turn up the volume like I did. I heard it just fine!!

[@eddiebirdsong]

and you end up using up your wick also.. as it so called cleans, it burns up the wick.

[@patrickkasper7818]

thanks

[@chrisunderwood2524]

I turned this off. If you are going to put a video out there..for people to hear and see...get the volume turned way up...and play it back to make sure it can be heard by all...or what's the point...if no one can hear it.........!!

[@gerardjones7881]

Headphones .

[@travisevans1697]

This is common sense any owner should know this. Its not a tip. Its called dry burning. You dont do this every use. Once a week is fine you can get away longer. Once a week is a good idea though. Just burn till it goes out. Try to light again if it does let it keep burning till it goes out again with no fuel. Will clean it. Also its not sell cleaning. All the carbon build up is failing down under the Assembly. That should he cleaned out once in awhile to. When you do that its nice to dry burn right before an clean any carbon still on the wick off while cleaning out all the extra build up. Kill two birds with one stone. When refueling after dry burning (letting it run outta fuel) once fueled again wait 30-60 minutes to allow the wick to absorb the feul. Not doing this can caise for none even burning or burning issues in general.

[@travisweldmaster7815]

Stop at "gas"...wow

[@jamesmitchell1815]

Sounds is very low on video

[@frankroper3274]

You can't do that with a cotton wick...only fiberglass!

[@MikeG-js1jt]

The problem is, is that you have to turn it off sometimes, these things really suck, this wick business is ridiculous, I'm ready to go get a torpedo burner!

[@johnnymac2952]

Mike Sloan no these things are great your just lazy

[@putheflamesoutyahoo1503]

Toyostove Laser 56 etc few models 1200$ programmable requires 35 watts elec running about 250 starting kero and no1....find old monitor 41 or 441 and burn #2 NO antigels. They make a no2 burning water heater. Direct vent exhaust has air inlet supply built in. Way better than stinky noisy torpedo, cost more.

[@mrroofingmrroofing5204]

No

[@russchiappa4870]

Waiting for the part where you show how you refreshed the wick you never showed it

[@ModernSurvivalSense]

That’s because the wick shown is the one I refreshed. At the time, I didn’t know if it was going to work and I made the video so I could share what I had learned as to help others. I didn’t have a second wick to fix on camera.

[@4x24gute]

I use jet fuel. That way you don't get the clinkers. Burns clean.

[@henrytjernlund]

JP-1 is jet fuel is super refined kerosene. How do you come by it? And BTW RP-1 (rocket propellant) is super refined JP-1. or super-super refined kerosene. So every time SpaceX launched their Falcon-9 rocket they are using RP-1 and LOX. They even super cool their RP-1 as to make it more dense and thus fit more fuel in the same tank. This is also why they fuel the rocket only minutes before launch, which NASA was not happy about. But SpaceX eventually proved it was safe.

[@charleswnicholsjr.799]

After letting it burn out completely when on Empty "outside" wait until it burns out then relight it. this will aid in removing the carbon build up :)

[@chrisunderwood2524]

I use a kerosene heater, the wood stove is just to difficult for me...I am 69, arthritis in most of my body...especially the hips...getting up and down to load wood, to poke at the fire, to keep it going...just way to much..yes five gallon is heavy but...I only fill up the tank..about every eleven hours...not every thirty five minutes. .

[@leonreynolds77]

Dry burning will ruin the wick.

[@RCThis]

No it doesn't. Look up all the KZbin videos like this

[@rogerlouia6124]

My is burning black smoke is it the kerosene old

[@ModernSurvivalSense]

You may have the wick too far out.

[@rogerlouia6124]

Could be never use it been in my building for awhile just got it out of the box

[@sswcustomcyclesswcustomcyc7948]

Roger Louia check the wick height. too low stinky heater too high a sooty stinky mess. make sure that you are getting clean air in the room. Crack the windows an inch to let air inside because yes these heaters use oxygen. properly operating they don't produce and or enough carbon monoxide to matter. burn only K1 or 1K kerosene. Red dyed kerosene is often home heating oil or dyed diesel fuel. Sadly some places due to red dye add heating oil or diesel fuel to kerosene in the bulk tank because most people are not going to notice and just think it's stinky kerosene. Proper kerosene heater maintenance, quality kerosene, a funnel that traps moisture every fill up, adequate ventilation, and you will have the best heat. If you want to go to Miles Stair's Wick Shop read about kerosene heater maintenance and care also read about kerosene. I am learned a lot from his website.

[@susancusano6912]

Impossible to light unless you use a damn match maybe? Ridiculousness.

[@joycejudd5109]

well, I'd love to know what you're teaching, but I simply cannot hear you. And I'm not hard of hearing.

[@aaround]

Subscribed!! ;)

[@760louise]

can hardly hear you

[@stepside2839]

Wut 👂

[@melissawelch-mosley]

Very useful info

[@ivan90815]

what? speak into the mic son

[@zachturner9698]

Can’t even hear you

[@ModernSurvivalSense]

What? Just kidding. I'm sorry. I was having some issues with the audio.

[@Jamestfarrell]

Nearly inaudible....

[@PillarStrength]

LISTEN TO THIS: TURN UP YOUR VOLUME!!!

[@bobphillips1330]

WoW what a waste of time this was

[@erkmenzeki]

Talking too much

[@markreading6377]

Throw the unit in the trash they stink

[@MarkHicks326]

So helpful & persuasive

[@Scho-penhauer]

Didn't show anything useful! Nothing!

[@ModernSurvivalSense]

Sorry, it's hard to show how to clean an already clean wick. :) This was something I had to learn myself and decided to share.

[@johnmichaelkarma]

1:35 "my heater is empty of gas", GAS! wtf ya ,you"re the guy I want to listen to, thumbs down

[@johnnymotoeveryday8206]

Audio sucks dude!

[@fredsnyder3063]

Thank you