Semi Automatic Ejector Pins

[@sayeager5559]

Marks channel is great. He mentioned you a few weeks ago which led me here and subscribed.

[@JohnSL]

Welcome aboard! And yes, his channel is great. And he gave me a very nice shout-out that caused a welcome spike in my subscribers.

[@darrelsomoza2927]

Excellent. Thank you, John. I learned a lot and enjoyed your presentation and work.

[@JohnSL]

Glad it was helpful!

[@joell439]

Looks like pin stop arms have a threaded hole in them. Why not use a jackscrew at that location to adjust the ejection pin stroke.? That way you can lock down the stops you were using all the way flush and then easily be able to adjust the jackscrew from the clamp side. Always interesting 👍

[@AndyMaker]

Excellent Channel John! I Subbed and liked. That's a beautiful shop you have. I'm picking up a Butler 10/60 injection molder next week. What is the shot sizes of your machines? - Andy

[@JohnSL]

That machine is a Travin TP1 and you can check their web site for shot size. The shot size has never been the limiting factor--it's been the clamping force.

[@GregryCM]

I enjoy your videos and find them very informative. What are the parts that you are molding?

[@JohnSL]

I guess I forgot the mention that. These are for N scale model trains. They represent a single row of concrete ties, which are transported on flatcars stacked 4 or 5 rows high.

[@plasticman3952]

Attach the ejector plate with bars to the A-side. The ejector pins will move forward as the mold opens.

[@7xME]

Maybe a linear rack and gear and a cam would be a easier style locking system..great mould design fab..looks like some serious engraving

[@7xME]

High compression air blast as well,maybe?

[@rhokdatroll]

Great video 🤟🏻

[@jrod4538]

Good video. I prefer using ejector plate springs.

[@JohnSL]

I didn't know about the springs back when I made this mold, a few years ago. But when I make molds for the Arburg C4B, I definitely plan to use springs in addition to return pins. I assume that's what you meant?

[@katdat1399]

Springs aren't necessary for small mold production like this, as long as the guide rods hit a mold safe area on the A side, springs are not needed.

[@cskilbeck]

a tool which helped with the alignment of the ejector plates would be a cool machining video, if such a thing was possible

[@JohnSL]

Once I get my Arburg C4B running, I'll definitely be making new molds with ejector pins.

[@akshayd211]

Great video! What is that part used for? :) Very curious to know.

[@JohnSL]

They're for model trains and represent a load of concrete railroad ties. A single load would be 4-5 layers of ties, and these plastic parts are designed to stack.

[@David_11111]

yay

[@margaretwood152]

😄😄😄

[@romulusmare]

Where do you sell these kits?

[@JohnSL]

I don't sell them yet. I want to remake the mold for a fully automatic injection molding machine that I'm getting up and running. That will make it less labor intensive to make these parts. Once that's the case, I will set up a web site where I'll sell them.

[@andrasnagy2822]

Hallo, I wonder if you have already tried using 3D printed resin mold? I'm experimenting with this now. If you have any experience with this, please share your experience with me. Even in a private message. Congratulations on the videos, they are very helpful! Thanks

[@riccardodipietro4400]

resin molds would deform under the heat and pressure very quickly they would not survive more than a few injections at best

[@ploegmma]

About the part sticking to the pins, maybe you should watch what Dragonfly is doing. It would be a cool new toy for you: kzbin.info/www/bejne/naC2iJ-hgr2Eopo

[@JohnSL]

That's all I need, another project 😀. I think Dave has an addiction to robots 😉.

[@dass1333]

Set-up is the path to success. To just have a tool does not make it work the way you want. You put things together see how it will function and look for ways to improve. That makes for understanding. Plug and play just makes monkey work. And boring videos.