Service of the antique pilot furnace part 1

[@tabrizkeshan]

My Richmond boiler was made as a coal furnace more than a century ago, and converted to gas almost that long ago. It had a Thermopile instead of a thermocouple, which was strong enough to open the gas valve on its own. Anyway, your videos are golden no matter what the age of the age of the equipment. Thanks for the great information.

[@grayfurnaceman]

tabriz kesha Welcome GFM

[@billybassman21]

Had one of these in the house I grew up in with a classic Honeywell round thermostat. It was an American Standard made around 1964. In 1984 my dad had the heat exchange, thermocoupler and the limit switch replaced. He found out he could have just gotten a whole new furnace with an electronic igniter. It did a good job heating the house and only had one issue that my dad fixed, it was from a roach getting into the limit switch. My dad wouldn't fix the central after it broke around 1985 and just put window units in, so it didn't run 6 months out of the year. It was still working when my parents moved in 2003. The new owners replaced the whole system including adding a new central air conditioner. I liked lighting it at the start of the cooling seasons and the smell of burned dust got me into the mood for the winter. Loved the sound it made when the burners ignited.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Cool thoughts GFM

[@razorramon8326]

Had this way back. My grandparents house. I used to stay there growing up late 70s early '80s with this thing. There was no electronic ignition. When the unit ignited it would make a loud boom and scared the heck out of me! When the unit shut off with the fan blowing, I had to count to six to eight seconds before you hear the next boom. It always remind me of that movie Uncle Buck! It wasn't until 86 I believe when Sears came by and replaced the entire unit with a brand new one. Those people from Sears that one heck of a job.. I was always curious and wanted to see what was going on. Those Sears guys used to teach the heck out of me.. at the same place teach me a lot of stuff. Oh boy I'm talking too much. Got to love these old appliances. Awesome video!

[@bookersbay]

Just gorgeously well explaned videos and concepts.. I've got an old Coleman, 75,000 BTU furnace (1968) that wouldn't shut off.. Turned out to be the solenoid stuck (plastic body), and the pilot light/Burner on truncated valve was sticking (silicon grease had migrated to the openings, so a half drop of Sewing Machine oil to dilute and refresh it) and then it moved into position freely, instead of locking up.. Testing a cycle now, as it wasn't turning off.. Done, it's working properly..

[@jgg204]

i have an AC Delco General Motors Gas Furnance from 1957. Still running like a champ. No need to replace.

[@lerch400block]

Nice. Ive heard of them but never seen one in my 18 years of service

[@saupham8192]

My furnace 1973 still works

[@u157391]

I had a same one from a little condo complex last year. Had issue with pilot. I just cleaned and it did work out but I was a kind of nervious not to break down more as I touch piece by piece.....too old!......it looked like everything will fall down from all rusted parts. I always thank for your time to put into great videos.....Thanks a lot!

[@oneinthapipe8115]

I'm cross training from oil to gas at my current job and your gas videos help a lot.

[@grayfurnaceman]

I think you are right about Payne. I will be checking the steady state efficiency when this is done. I just thought one these should be shown. Thanks for the thoughts. GFM

[@picklerix6162]

These are the types of old furnaces that I always worked on over thirty years ago. The furnaces with control boards, igniters, and inducers were not around when I left the HVAC business but I learned how to troubleshoot the newer 80% furnaces so I could fix mine. I'm afraid to upgrade to a 90+% furnace because I hear a lot of bad stories about the electronic DC motors failing and they are very expensive to replace.

[@grayfurnaceman]

The ECM motors have given some trouble. Many times the repair is a very cheap part that I have done videos on. Most techs don't want to get that deep into electronics, so they just replace. GFM

[@billsmith1770]

my neighbor and i have matching monogram brand propane wall furnaces bought in the late 60s or early 1970s . i removed and stored my still working one about 5 years ago , but her's will probably still be working when both of us are gone . a little more expensive to operate , but built to last . you can actually hear the pilot in these when you get near the heater .

[@bookbeing]

Ours is an even older T 1940s era floor furnace. It could be in a museum🧐. These videos are so helpful.

[@MrSpyfelis]

Very cool video, I have a late 50's or early 60's Day and Night gas furnace, it has a combination gas valve, 2 burners and a standing pilot light, and a direct or belt driven blower fan, it blows hot, I know it is inefficient, but I don't really care, it's better than dealing with control boards being in your way of your work. My grandparents on my mom's side have a early 40's Payne gas furnace, it has a combination gas valve, 4 burners and a standing pilot light, as well as a belt driven blower fan, it's inefficient, but it keeps my grandparents house all nice and toasty warm, it's a lowboy furnace, it and my old day and night gas furnace are still working great up to today.

[@grayfurnaceman]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. GFM

[@andrewbethea327]

I agree. For me, simplicity is more important than efficiency.

[@Panhead49EL]

I really appreciate your videos on the older stuff. My Sears unit isn't quite that old, but the igniter uses what looks like an automotive coil wire going to a ceramic piece. I'm guessing it's at best early 80s.

[@grayfurnaceman]

That igniter was used into the 1990s GFM

[@grayfurnaceman]

I'm in the process of completing this service. You want to look at the heat exchanger before you get too far, because if it is rusted thru or cracked you are done. GFM

[@mrsharper-adkins9230]

I'm 25 yr old woman and have no clue what I'm doing. You did great but I gotta get a professional so I don't burn my house down. Thanks!

[@grayfurnaceman]

Good idea. GFM

[@grayfurnaceman]

Thanks for the support. GFM

[@intestinalworm1202]

Hello There grayfurnaceman, Great series of videos my friend! I'm a chemical engineer, so I guess I understand some of the theory around combustion, heat exchangers, etc., but I must say I really admire your practical explanations - I'm learning! I have a natural gas two burner furnace that was installed in c.1970 (I live in Melbourne, Victoria, Australia) - the front panels of the furnace are held on with bloody Robertsons screws - yes, it's Canadian!; it's an Atlas Webster (Montreal, Canada). It's in very good general condition, unfortunately the bloke that used to service it (he said it was a fantastic furnace and built to last) is no longer around and it has recently been suffering from "blowback" - kapow! Anyway, removed the two burners (heavy cast-iron affairs) and cleaned them - they were dirty and likely the cause of the "blowback". The ITT General Controls gas valve looks fine (on the outside), but the main gas flow doesn't come on as it did last year (pilot light looks okay and stays on) so no heating and it's winter now! The only new item is an LCD battery powered thermostat that was installed about 5 years ago to replace the old (but still functional) Honeywell controller. Strangely, there is a pilot gas line, a thermocouple (or thermopile?) and a copper wire/probe that I'm not sure about (three items!) all manifolded together and connected back to the gas valve. Maybe I'll clean the thermocouple with some emery paper - looks a bit dirty. Any ideas as to why the main gas is not coming on when I turn the thermostat setting up?

[@grayfurnaceman]

It may indeed be a thermopile actuated appliance. Be sure all connections are clean and tight. Also be sure your pilot flame is blue and covering the thermopile and thermocouple. Hope this helps. GFM

[@robyntaurusbeatz703]

Yesss!! Ive just recently replaced the entire pilot assembly with the gas lines and thermalcouple and all that and Im having that big kaboom you mentioned after a delayed ignition. It is quite an old furnace as my landlords are slumlords. They havent been out to service or update anything in the 4 yrs Ive lived here. Havent even seen them at all since before the pandemic even began. Ive done everything and they still had the nerve to go and raise my rent on my twice in that time. Anyway they are the kind who do all their own repairs, half assinh everything to avoid spending money at all costs. Anyway u didnt really get into what was causing this issue for sure but I wld lile to know where to start. Thank u !

[@grayfurnaceman]

First, clean the burners, including the fame spreaders. Insure the pilot light is close to the burner. GFM

[@RobHVAC]

Good video. There are still a few of these types of furnaces out there.

[@robertsitch1415]

Here in Canada most furnaces that age were made by defunct companies. At least most of them were simple enough that you can replace the moving parts with universal aftermarket parts.

[@DanSuolo]

Looks like what i have in my basement... looking forward to seeing this series... i hope you take the whole furnace apart....lol

[@Dissappointment]

The "fallen rusted flakes" you guys find on the burners used to be the heat exchanger wall. The chamber that separates the flue gasses from the air that is circulated throughout the house. The walls of that chamber are very important as they keep the bad air away from the good air. Every flake is a few thicknesses of less protection. I suggest actively trying to find weak spots in the heat exchanger walls especially when I see excessive flaking. It's better if I knock off the flake from the crack or hole than if I leave and a week later the flake falls off and the burners start rolling out.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Ever so true. Using a screwdriver to check for weak spots sometimes helps. Also, if there is quite a lot of flakes, it is indicative of perhaps a low firing rate. Age and a lot of flakes = throw it away. Thanks for the thoughts. GFM

[@grayfurnaceman]

It is definitely an antique. Some younger techs would have trouble even lighting the pilot. I will try to explain how they work. GFM

[@razorramon8326]

Yep absolutely wonderful. I love these old time machines/appliances. I love old school. And absolutely technicians engineers from this generation probably wouldn't know what they're doing. Just saying.

[@JohnDoe-jt9oq]

@@razorramon8326 I don't know what you guys are talking about, you old people seem to really have it out for us. The irony, considering it's pretty much gaslighting lol. I can light a pilot just fine, thanks. There's like 5 parts in the furnaces from your day, it's the older techs that are struggling today.

[@fordprefect9749]

I have a 1950's floor furnace with a single burner bar. The pilot has two flames, 90 degrees apart, for the thermocouple and to ignite the bar. It burns a lot of gas. I shut off the gas valve from April - November, and my bill drops noticeably. Only the water heater runs year round. Can I turn the pilot down, or replace it low-burn version? Can a single flame keep the thermocouple hot and ignite the bar? I have the Robertshaw pilots and igniters sell sheet.

[@toddoskin]

Looking forward to part 2, etc! I have an old American Standard boiler from '69 that's still kicking it, and I'm trying to do my best to keep up with the maintenance. (I vacuumed the crap off the top of the burners... probably a better way though, right?)

[@grayfurnaceman]

Actually, the burners should be removed and cleaned. Hope it keeps working! GFM

[@hollettandson1447]

I have a 1989 century gas Furnance. The pilot light is blue and seems to be a good size but as soon as I let go of the pilot button the flame goes out. I also noticed the push button does seem a little stiff and does not pop up as fast as it used to. Any way you can give me some advice. I am a contractor so I know my way around a tool box. But work has been slow for a bout 8-9 months so hiring a service company is out for the time being. Mark

[@emckenzie23]

Love your site and videos. Appreciate the logical assistance. I have an older gas standing pilot furnace. McClary Debonaire 35yoa or more. Model:12G130L; Serial # D50307. No manual. General Controls Valve. Serial #L5 B 64; Cat No: B60Y64H. General Controls Company bought by American HVAC. Is the "White Rodgers B60 Valve" the same one? Couple of years ago furnace not running. Plumber tapped valve with wrench, everything fine. Same problem again. Valve sticking? Have been able to get operating by adjusting thermostat above/below room temp a few/numerous times. Can the valve be serviced? Where do I locate a new one and a manual? Would appreciate any advice you have time for. The furnace has no other issues.

[@grayfurnaceman]

I am assuming the controls are 24 volt. A White Rodgers 36C03-433 should work ok. It is a general replacement valve. The valve comes with a manual. If you want step by step instructions, go to my channel and search for "How to replace a gas valve". GFM

[@emckenzie23]

@@grayfurnaceman Thank you so much for your reply and suggestion of the correct valve to replace with. Watched your video regarding changing valve and you are very knowledgeable and explain everything in great detail. I believe I will let professionals like you do the work. Thanks again for your knowledge and lessons.

[@theoldboy70]

This thing has not been maintained for sour apples, fantastic.

[@chairde]

Time for a maintenance plan. I have one and it is worthwhile.

[@paulcalif]

Just finished watching this series. I have an old 1959 Coleman in a mobile home. It hasn't been lived in for over 10 years. I finished restoring pretty much everything else and now it's time to check the old heater. I got it working but the pilot won't stay lit. Going to replace the thermocouple. But I also noticed that there is a lot of soot inside the unit. I'm going the clean it and inspect it as you showed in the video. The flames are very yellow. I'm looking forward to tearing into it. Is it possible that dirty burners could be causing the inefficient combustion. This is attached to propane, but the removable metal tag on the control valve says natural gas. The instructions on the front of the unit describe how to convert it and the orifice size so I'll check to make sure it was converted. Would it even light if it was set for natural gas? Hope to hear back and thanks a million for the videos, very well done.

[@grayfurnaceman]

It would probably light but it would make lots of soot. It would also damage the heat exchanger. GFM

[@paulcalif]

@@grayfurnaceman Turned out they had made the conversion to the control valve but didn't change the orifice. The correct one was still stored in the unit. I tried to remove the nat gas orifice but instead of unscrewing, it snapped off. I had to take it all apart, drill out the wrong orifice, then braze in the correct one. Cleaned out a ton of soot and replaced the thermocouple. Flame still seems a little too yellow, but its working. No damage to the firebox. Thanks for the reply, you were right about the soot!

[@Danger-Dave]

LOL.... Mine is a real antique, a Mueller Climatrol ! Giant green beast from probably the early to mid 50's.Replaced the dpdt relay when we 1st bought the house 24 years ago & it has always worked well till now in Oct. 2021. Needs a new 24v transformer "i think" for the old stand alone Honeywell electro-magnet solenoid gas valve main. Wish I could find a schematic for it, the org. one on the inside of the filter door is gone.

[@grayfurnaceman]

The schematic is so simple, they probably did not bother. lol GFM

[@adrianverhoeven2256]

Same here muller climatrol green beast, went to start but wont ignite. The blower will keep cycling but no ignition and i cant locate a manuel or troubleshooting guide anywhere. Pilots lit but burner wont fire up.

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@adrianverhoeven2256 First, check low voltage power from the transformer. GFM

[@Bettinasisrg]

Hello, not sure if you'll read this but mine is almost exactly like this one. My question is which way should my filter arrow point? As I'm sure you know the filter goes on top of the blower motor so does the arrow point to the sky or the ground? That's worded for me as I'm a single grandma! Thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

Its not quite that simple. Do you know if your furnace air flow is up or down? GFM

[@jfarinacci0329]

Really good vid. Thank you.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Welcome GFM

[@bashirmohamed7982]

Old units are the best. Easy to fix..many times H.E. bullitproof

[@awsom70]

Man i love working on that old stuff. They just dont make them like they use to as far as durability. Efficiency well not soo much but relielable YES.

[@intestinalworm1202]

Loving my c.1970 Atlas Webster made In Montreal - installed in sunny Australia (albeit quite cold in winter Melbourne)! One hundred percent original gas furnace except for a new LCD thermostat (even though old Honeywell unit was still 100%); has an original ITT General Controls gas valve that just looks solid!

[@3beltwesty]

This is probaby a 75 to 80 percent furnace

[@andrewbethea327]

For me, technological simplicity (no electronics / computers) is more important than efficiency.

[@dbouzas]

Are the thermocouples different for old furnace like this to a newer style? I have a 60's Bryant and the thermocouple is open on both sides like automotive brake line. I bought a universal replacement and the threaded end of the universal thermocouple that goes into the gas valve is to small and slips past the threads.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Some of the early thermocouples were of that type. About all I know of to do is replace the gas control. This will involve replacing the gas chain with a combination gas valve. GFM

[@unfundedopportunities7278]

Since the combustion of natural gas produces water vapor, would it make sense to turn off the pilot during the off-season? Water vapor is what causes the rust.

[@grayfurnaceman]

That would be sensible and would save a little money. GFM

[@chevy6969200]

Where would the air filter be on a 1950s to 1970s 2 sided wall furnace?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Most of those heaters had no provision for a filter. GFM

[@abazism]

What’s atmospheric furnace ? Is that the old ones that doesn’t have draft inducer ? Or can it be atmospheric heater and still have draft inducer?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Atmospheric is a natural draft that depends on heat rather than an inducer to move gasses thru the furnace. GFM

[@sovereignalessandri2505]

Hi. I have a Mueller boiler. Do you know where I can buy a new pilot light assembly for it?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Not that easy. Get your model number and look it up on the internet. GFM

[@hvac.r_mn]

This furnace really shows it's age with the old gas train

[@HelloKittyFanMan.]

"Shows IT IS age"? Tha doesn't make sense.

[@grayfurnaceman]

That boy doesn't owe anything to its owner. Thanks for the comment. GFM

[@grayfurnaceman]

Glad they help. GFM

[@kristinaguerette3865]

Just found this video. I'm trying to identify the year, efficiency, and any other info for the furnace in our house. It's an Inter-City, and the model says 150 CLB. I haven been able to turn up anything significant (specs or a manual) for it through a Google search. Any chance you have any ideas? Or know someone who does? When we bought the house in late 2016, we were told it was from the 1970s. (House was built in 1960, and originally had coal.) We're in central Alberta, Canada.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Furnaces of that era are very simple and virtually all used a thermocouple flame safety. The series I did on this antique furnace are pretty much applicable to your furnace. If you want to send pics, I may be able to tell you more about your furnace. Send to [e-mail] GFM

[@gavinrutan6226]

Thanks for a very good education

[@grayfurnaceman]

Welcome GFM

[@kevinlindsay9241]

Hi grayfurnaceman, i have a Lennox G8Q3-120-1 1984 manufacturer. I have found the same furnace that is a G8Q3 - 120-3 which i believe to be the same furnace but a later version. I would like to remove the heat exchanger so that I have the part in case mine craps out. Is there a video out there somewhere that would show the steps to remove this part? thanks in advance for your help.

[@grayfurnaceman]

I don't have one for that model, but here is one that may give the steps: kzbin.info/www/bejne/momuo4KgoJeDqM0 GFM

[@dreamweavr17]

Thanks for posting this video. I learned alot from it. I do have one question for grayfurnaceman. I have a CLEVELAND Brand Furnace! Its literally called a Cleveland. My pilot light is HUGE! Should I call someone or am I fine? I had a ton of carbon that I usually don not have after summer, but now winter in Cleveland approaches and its annual cleaning time. Thanks!

[@grayfurnaceman]

I would have it looked at. If there is carbon and the flame is yellow, it needs to be looked at. GFM

[@mikemurphy5716]

I've got a cabin with on old furnace from the mid 50's (I think) made by Gaffers and Sattler...trying to figure out where the filter is on this unit...it has a upper grate that is removable where the pilot and burners are located but no filter in that area that I can find. There is a lower cover plate beneath that grate that appears to be held on by screws (it doesn't pull off like the upper grate) but not sure if I should pull that off to locate the filter. Any ideas? Model 75FDF..thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

Pull off the lower panel. There is no set place for the filter but good chance it is neat the fan. GFM

[@jennjeffs4893]

Vintage!! LOVE it! We had this exact one in our first house. For something to be Antique it has to be 100 years old or older.. This would be Vintage :) Vintage is generally anything 50 years or older :)

[@razorramon8326]

Same here.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Yes. It is worth a look. GFM

[@sdkujn]

I have two big vents on the floor in the hallway and living room which seems to be the return air. I believe that's he air the furnace uses to bring up thru the furnace. I opened the furnace middle section and didn't see a filter. Not sure now.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Many times the filter is placed where the return attaches to the furnace. Should be either the metal loop or brackets. GFM

[@mlomeli01]

I have a luxaire furnace with a ring burner still going up I cannot get any info on it .

[@grayfurnaceman]

That's because most of those burners were phased out by 1960. They are certainly not available anymore. I may be able to answer questions about it. GFM

[@mlomeli01]

So definitely my furnace is from the fifties. It is a gas fired gravity furnace . Thx for replying.

[@deanmartin1966]

Great Video

[@jaysasso4392]

Mine is more blue flame...is that ok ?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Blue is good if the fuel is natural gas. You should have orange tips if the fuel is propane. GFM

[@conservativeamber1216]

We Refurbished our whole house but kept the Furnace (40 Year old legendary) LOL.. Finally starting to have some problems with it.. Burner isn't lighting up for long..

[@ChristinaOoi]

Hi! I had someone turn off the pilot light in my old Payne furnace, came with the apartment that was built in 1969. I'm wondering how I should relight it. Any help would be great appreciated!

[@NathanielTheWaterKing]

Any answers

[@paulh1288]

hey should the pilot flame from propane be a bue colour as well. Im renting a farm house with a Clare Hecla Propane unit, the pilot has always stayed on but since the start of last year it wont fire up. Landlord is gone for 3 years so my options are buying him a new furnace or fixing this one on my own, which I will but its hard finding any info on this old unit or even propane units for that matter. Thanks your videos are helping me

[@grayfurnaceman]

The propane units tend to have more yellow in the pilot flame than natural gas, so yes a little bit. GFM

[@mrshppy76]

Help!! Why does the pilot light go out when the thermostat is turned up and then lits when I turnit off:'(

[@whitneytouchet8285]

If I have a question and photo where can I send it ? Lol

[@copkhan007]

Question for you, my neighbor has the same furnace made by Sears. His furnace wont stay lit, could that be due to a bad gas valve? Thermo couple was changed few months ago. Can he find the gas valve for this ancient furnace or is it not worth going through the trouble?

[@grayfurnaceman]

If the pilot light is covering the thermocouple, the gas valve could be bad. A general replacement valve will work. Honeywell and White Rodgers make them. Fairly big job, be sure you can handle it. I do have a video on my channel directing how. GFM

[@tomingle683]

my old furnace has no pilot reset? It also has an "air" intake to the pressure control and the thermocouple goes directly to valve? It's a Sequoia. Not much rust, very dry in El Paso, Texas.

[@grayfurnaceman]

+Tom Ingle You probably have a gas chain control like on the videos. As for reset, not sure what you mean. The pressure regulator uses an opening to ambient pressure to maintain the proper pressure in the manifold. GFM

[@rodgraff1782]

The problem with working on these dinasours is once you work on it, you own it. I had one just like it, and the customer expected it to be like a new furnace, once I was done. 😮

[@grayfurnaceman]

Common customer problem. I had a customer whose furnace was installed in 1948. His stack switch failed 2 months after we did the annual and he blamed us for it. GFM

[@sdkujn]

Hi Gary, I have a 1960's Western bran furnace like the one your are looking at here. Do these have air filters on them? If so, where?

[@grayfurnaceman]

They do. Now, where? That is the question. Look for the return air. It should be to the side or bottom of the furnace if the air comes out the top. It could be in the return close to the furnace or it could be inside the fan cover. Sometimes they use a metal loop to hold the filter in. It could also be at the return air where it has a grille inside the house. Hope this helps. GFM

[@thirdroompro]

Hello Gray furnace man. Great info. I have a before 1968 American Standard Split unit and my furnace has a cracked heat exchanger. Is there any chance of finding parts for this baby. The Model # says U60-1. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, BT

[@grayfurnaceman]

+Blake Thompson Not much chance on that. The bigger question is: why would you want to? The technology is obsolete. Generally, I look at a furnace of this type as: if it works, leave it be. If it fails with an expensive repair, use the money you would use for the repair towards a new furnace. GFM

[@markrobinson6200]

I would love to find one of these old Payne furnaces. They last and can be repaired easily.

[@hugosfan2412]

Will this cause a dusty fuel smell in the summer my landlord is a slumlord I want out of this place so bad we're not even running it and it stinks

[@DONALD1951]

Old cast iron burners. Regulator not incorporated in the gas valve. And the pilot safety is separate. Time for a vr800.

[@HelloKittyFanMan.]

Geeze, I would've replaced that a long time ago, and then replaced its replacement already! A few months ago, my parents just replaced their 90%er from 1995 with... I think a 98er now.

[@someonespadre]

I have a floor furnace in a 1935 house. I can see the pilot from down below in the basement. It has a Robertshaw millivolt control with a thermopile, the control has no knob (on off pilot). It works, looks good too. Eventually I will want to kill the pilot for the summer but I don't see how to relight it. The only thing I can think of is just put heat on the thermopile until it lights? I'm not sure if a long match is enough.

[@grayfurnaceman]

If it has a gas chain (several components in a row), there is a button that can be pushed to open the pilot gas then the pilot can be lit. Then hold button for one minute. It should then stay on. GFM

[@frankjgornickjr3676]

If the furnace lasted over 50 years my God it's way better than a new furnaces! New furnaces they have all kind of problems with sensors computer boards going bad before even 10 years is up give me the old ones over the new any damn day!

[@1912RamblerFan01]

That furnace must be like, what, 40% AFUE! Hehe. Those things were made when my dad wasn't even in his teens yet and I believe that furnace was made before Payne became a part of BDP or Carrier.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Its coming. GFM

[@Bettinasisrg]

PS mine is an old Sears from the 60s or 70s.

[@adventureguy4119]

this model is what about killed me and proved that co alarms worked it was start of season the rust had actully clogged the heat exchanger

[@grayfurnaceman]

Glad you are ok. GFM

[@u157391]

That's what I thought. Hopely that customer calls me to replace the unit not for service. Fallen rusted metal piece were piled up on both side of bunner......I should take some pictures but didn't. Let me see my old friend again. Thank you!

[@zacharybowen4247]

Antique is anything 100 years old and over . 25-50 classic 50 -99 vintage

[@grayfurnaceman]

If it was a car, it would be an antique. GFM

[@Lisastar9]

Haha watching the flames ignite made me scared watching hahaha

[@unfundedopportunities7278]

What is the point of having a carbon monoxide ( CO ) detector if you have a gas furnace? The balanced equation for burning of natural gas is CH4+2O2 → CO2+2H2O. Carbon dioxide ( CO2 ) is produced, not carbon monoxide.

[@electriccar3253]

You are assuming the furnace is operating normally. Plugged primary air or burners, cracked heat exchanger can reduce oxygen supply to the flame resulting in CO. GFM

[@conservativeamber1216]

Airco furnaces last 50 Years

[@grayfurnaceman]

Or not. You are only seeing the ones that have not been replaced and indeed, there are many. GFM

[@sjlee7529]

I have Thousandth century green cooper small furnace, green copper mirror, green copper bowl etc, anybody who loves antique

[@burtswayze]

I have a Pioneer out in California same design very noisy

[@burtswayze]

Pilot is almost all yellow flame barely any blue

[@onlyme8870]

I can't even get the pilot to light even with a new pilot. The gas company shut it off now it won't work.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Why did the gas company shut down the unit? GFM

[@onlyme8870]

@grayfurnaceman the tenant was complaining about her gas bill and since she wasn't using her stove she assumed it was her furnace and request a shut off. I found the issue the city installed a new line from the road and when they reconnect they billed everyone wrong she was paying for the owners meter not her own and similar for the rest of the tenants. I traced it all they gas man came and verified then they digitally correct the billing so nothing was on the furnace but the pilot. But it was off for 3 days when the gas man tried to relight it wouldn't light. He told me and I cleaned the furnace no obstruction in the pilot or orifice thermocouple nice and clean. But still wouldn't light while holding the button for pilot. Tried to replace both and still same issue the gas line to valve is in the open position. Just checked for voltage got the required 24 minimum. Had tenant turn up Stat. Just without a pilot it's not going to go further. So I'm assuming the valve either stuck closed due to age or something else. The 3 wires going to the valve all have continuity. Not that this is safe or permanent I could just tap it and see if it activates and gas comes through. Regardless if it does then I'll be replacing it anyways in rhat case as it shows it's not safe imaging getting stuck open. So now if it's bad I'll have to find an updated valve as I haven't found a match to this model. And not using Amazon for furnace parts. I rather post the model in the comments of repair channels and go from there and I'll check locally.

[@boobalayboobalay1965]

Monique Moore

[@thedavesofourlives1]

sounds like he's been drinking his lunch #trollnottruth

[@boobalayboobalay1965]

Ding a longs on bun

[@officialt1925]

Haha I got this now

[@franklynpolster8949]

High pitched

[@jaimetarango7423]

i guus its dirty

[@Tman-xr7xw]

Good video. Too much pause. U could of made ur point in 2 mins

[@roncurtis9817]

Dont care on how old it is..or was.. Get to point

[@grayfurnaceman]

Service is good when it is right, not fast.

[@StartVisit]

My 1960 Bryant looks much better, no rust