Setting Up Corner Profiles, Bricklaying

[@addictiveaussie]

I began buying BT Engineering products back in the 80's. The guy that started the company in Kirrawee, a couple of suburbs away from where I lived was a very humble man, and was always ready willing and able to have a chat to brickies about products that could make laying bricks easier and quicker. He was a a genius at taking onboard problems and suggestions and designing gear that works exceptionally well. His son is a chip off the old boys block.

[@Brikkwall]

Somehow when you chisel the mortar around bricks it's really easy to knock them loose when you don't want to, but extraordinarily hard when that's what you're trying to achieve...

[@pb9926]

Very well explained video Stu, I think your videos must be helping newcomers into the industry and diyers no end. I love watching all the videos even though I'm a plumbing and heating guy, we never stop learning and those that share their knowledge and expect nothing in return are rare. Much respect 👍

[@pb9926]

@@billcoley8520 looks good to me but everyone is entitled to their opinion.

[@EvanBeard93]

In Australia you can buy profiles with the gauge marked on every course. The also come with 2 sliding poles to plumb both sides. Takes 2min easy as

[@vikingone3470]

Hi Stu, great video again, here in Aus we use profile brackets all the the time, nailed on cos mostly timber frames but in that situation we use timber props, 90 x45 and g clamp them each 1 at the back and the side of profile, better if the profile is longer 2.4 and we use steel profiles 50x50 much sturdier. Then we plumb and and anchor props with bricks, when we get up 12 or so courses put the f clamps on and take props off, very quick and never have a problem. Thanks for sharing again. Great to see your love of the trade.

[@Grumszy]

After building your first brick courses... Rake out perp joints for for next days use with profiles if possible.

[@geoffreydavies6570]

To be honest by the time you set that lot up in my day I would have built it my mind bogles, I'm a retired bricky.

[@DukeofDave]

This whole video is ten minutes long. You'd still be reading your Daily Sport old timer.

[@daveg7628]

3yrs later and I agree with you 100% Geoffrey. They don't make them like you anymore. The time it takes time to set that up I would have a lead up and be rock 'n & rollin. No to mention you have to take down the profile to do the joint behind the profile which then mean you have to reset it to continue the wall. With high walls we use a point laser and drop a jack line.

[@jurnydogowianin]

i was working as a bricklayer in belgium for few years, system like these is used there from long long time ago

[@zenmaster666]

what I like to do is put a screw into the bottom of the profile so it sticks out, then I can put that screw onto the brick on the bottom. that way you don't need to put any clamps on the bottom. in order to secure it in place, you kind of have to push up on the "rudder" (as we call it) before you clamp the profile. when you clamp it, the push you gave the rudder upwards will now be pushing the profile down on the screw on the brick and it will be nice and secure. it's a bit hard to explain but once you get the hang of it you can put up the profile in seconds.

[@alangreenley3257]

bt, also do pole clamps, 150mm,and 300 mm long which is a lot quicker to set up stu, we use them all the time mate, you can also get a bt dori block, which slides,up and down the pole,to take your line, brillant things,

[@nigelwood6242]

I use similar method but with just one clamp at the bottom and nothing at the top! So them top clamps would be useful, as like you say I've got to keep checking post is plumb as it's easy to knock! I scored my alloy box section with a hack saw to gauge on two sides just means you've set it to gauge as well as plumb! Can be a faf. Just Remeber to keep your mortar away from the post so it doesn't go off, then point it in later. 👍

[@BrookePage1992]

I love how u don’t edit out even your own mistakes and the real time it can take

[@benkimber8285]

I own all 4 top clamps for timber frame. Amazing for leaning brickwork out to keep your cavity 100mm. 100-% worth every penny. Use a drill as it’s easy to take on and off.

[@justycrusty]

Good video Stu as ever. I use Blake’s and PT which are easy to fix. However they will pull over with a lot of tension on a long line so you need to keep an eye on plumb and fit tension clamps. I can see advantage with yours; once they’re clamped top and bottom, they are solid👍👍.

[@traeshoun4572]

Is that a tool kit set like the clamps

[@jdp3867]

Wow, if you guys are behind the Australians then we are way behind in North Carolina. We still build courners bit by bit. One mason on each courner and one in the middle. Two Mason's in the middle of it's a long wall. Twig the long wall of course. We seem to do it pretty quickly. Enjoy your videos.

[@idressmohammadi6876]

You can put dry brick under your profile and I just buy thos clamp they are very handy 💪💪

[@DavidLopez-np5td]

Where can I buy does clamp

[@btengineeringbrickiestools5797]

@@DavidLopez-np5td www.sestools.co.uk ! Coming soon to Amazon and Stu's shop as well (few weeks away)

[@theteadrinker-143]

In Melbourne Australia for the finish facework you drop a line from the guttering and set your corners to that !

[@hedspinnerUK]

it would have to be timber frame, n in uk most new builds r masonry

[@hedspinnerUK]

good idea though 👍

[@rossmale8715]

I've got a set of Blake's,seems a bit quicker than this to be honest. Although one of those ally posts could be useful for my reveals as I normally use old levels

[@bricky1000]

I would say blakes are 3 times quicker to set up than that

[@Growveguk]

Set my new profiles up yesterday, spent 20 mins faffing around and took them back down again and went back to my levels LOL!! I'm sure they are fantastic on large runs but for my project it created more problems than it solved. Now if I'd have known about those top clamps it would have been a different story!!

[@leonkaskiewicz6829]

Use a cordless drill with hammer function to drill out the perp it's really quick and doesn't loosen the bricks like a hammer and chisel does

[@roccostarbuck8069]

Thanks for that video, very informative.

[@andrewpulcini6571]

Damn !!! I need one of these for my dads company. We do mainly residential restoration so I deal with alot of walls where I have to take apart corners and rebuild them , so something like this would really come in handy

[@Fordmad90]

How do you return the line for the face side?

[@stevietm]

Another great video stu lad. Love the baseball cap too👍

[@peterbasham8134]

Loving your work Stu. Been very helpful on my garage self build. I do have a question about cavity tray and the corners that I can't get any info for. What is the best way to cut the cavity tray corners in as you've done in this vid? Thanks in advance!

[@dnbfreeparty]

Get a paper round

[@peterbasham8134]

@@dnbfreeparty I did have a paper round years ago. And then I asked a question….two years ago. How’s your life going?

[@Rureal42]

So you have to build up the inner leaf so you can use the top clamp before using these profiles?

[@madgebishop5409]

they seem a right faff!

[@jimmyboimazarti1234]

Is one clamp enough support if you don’t have anything to clamp too up top

[@skajen1258]

great job!!

[@tonyclarke5357]

Great job mate have a set myself still have to out them into operation 😎⚒🔥

[@Stucrompton1]

Great once all set up bro

[@davidcope9912]

You can do the same thing with two mortar pins one c-clamp and one angle iron corner bracket in two minutes probably a hundredth of the cost

[@lewisgear]

How do you point the joint behind the profile?

[@johno-gb7ci]

Good video thanks

[@jasvirchand752]

Hello sir please tell me where can I buy this tools in u.k please

[@Fordmad90]

Love the videos stu👌

[@mpsymonds1]

Stu enjoy your videos and love your enthusiasm mate, but your trying to invent the wheel.

[@kalan4787]

I just don't understand what the utility of this is. Why not just hang a plumb bob to find the plumb line, set an anchor, and run a string from the top? I would assume it has to provide *SOMETHING* else than a corner reference. What do you use them for?

[@brook3664]

What's the intro song mate ? Really love it - gives me chills

[@user-ox4eu3xi3s]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/sKPbf6yOn8xmqac

[@Stucrompton1]

The night is young, phoco remix

[@brook3664]

@@Stucrompton1 Cheers mate !

[@liamsmith1400]

Can u use standard profile like the one you used in the video to set up the brick wall first without having to have the block work up ? Hope that makes sense thanks 👍🏻

[@hedspinnerUK]

no sense whatsoever but good try 👍

[@TheElectek]

@@hedspinnerUK good job on being a dick. I know what he means you don't so maybe you should wonder why it doesn't make sense to you.

[@martinknight510]

Use two lengths of roofing battern and clamps at the top

[@liamsmith1400]

@@martinknight510 ahaha a year later after posting that that’s exactly what I did mate cheers surprising what u learn in a few years cheers pal 👍🏻

[@arniemullin5949]

How come you didn't just cut the first course of bricks so the other 2 course had nice beds then it would of looked spot on

[@lightwork4924]

How long should the brick profiles be again ?

[@Stucrompton1]

No less thank 2 metered Ronan

[@dannymurphy1779]

Top job - and First!

[@JD-uh9od]

Not the best profiles I’ve ever seen. They seem a bit of a ball ache to set up. I’ve always used Mustangs or Blakes,there’s no need for a clamp at the top of the profile, they also don’t sit tight against the brickwork which will stop any smudging but each to there own.

[@bigredc222]

You could have half the wall built in the time it takes to set those clamps up.

[@zukizigzag3152]

I want to learn (from Indonesia)

[@m.b.82]

1st time ever setting up a proey?

[@jameshawkes2404]

where your ties at damp?

[@mikepignato8859]

Guess they don’t know about the 11 and 5/8 cut on the Conner

[@ИванВасильевич-с6с]

А если для упора на верху возможности нету?

[@craigwhite2276]

Normally enjoy your vids mate. But that was a right faf. Blake's all day long. I would've hade them both up and pulling in. No one uses box section on a corner. I've never see it.

[@Stucrompton1]

Yeah I may be old school on that one. Yeah I will have to try that other setup 👍

[@craigwhite2276]

@@Stucrompton1 enjoy your vids mate. I work with my dad aswell. Only difference is I've seen your dad smile. Mine never does 😐

[@chick262]

If you don't use Box section on a corner what do you use?

[@1979com]

1 hour later we still havent started laying bricks. lol

[@lazylad9064]

I thought you'd be good enough to not use them. Do they make layout easier or stop your levels going everywhere.👍👍. How did they manage inth eldern days. ( see kc for that😀😀) 👍👍

[@bristoldad753]

lazylad 90 it doesn’t mean your not good enough if you use profiles. It’s faster and more accurate very useful.. Blake’s profiles are the way forward tho 👍👍

[@benzi2730]

The clamp was 600m or 300m

[@matthumphries4208]

Nice vidio stu but only level the face of the box section you will be pulling your lines against, I am shor you checked it and probably missed it in the vidio, there is no point in leveling something you are not going to be pulling your line against as it may be dinged. Keep up the good work.

[@Stucrompton1]

You’re actually wrong. It has to be plum(not level) both sides because if it’s out as you build to that then you wall will be out the other side. Pretty simple really

[@terrenceford5048]

Just leave joint out

[@IkeBrider]

I remember when bricklayers could build corners without profiles!

[@Bp98]

Врло корисна лекција.

[@ЕвгенийИшков-д8й]

Маза фака какая-то элучше по уровню ложись

[@stevenwille644]

Hi

[@skynet4671]

too much staff ,stu🤪

[@Theoz1412]

That’s sad to see I’m sorry to say 🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@alejandromarin6840]

10 minutes to fix it to much time in Mexico we have betters profiles then u can fixi in a secondns

[@markyw7954]

I need a lie down after watching that lol.

[@dillusingh5358]

Product sale

[@Stucrompton1]

Well done 👏