Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) Pattern Drafting Tutorial!

[@girlishgamer1]

What happens when you have the posture of a boiled shrimp?

[@oldkittykiyru]

I too am a boiled 🍤 Shrimp. I used this to move a back arm hole dart to the waist and make my shoulder dart a touch bigger for my rounded upper back. Not sure that's the right thing to do 🤷🏻‍♀️

[@SewAnastasia]

Lol 😂 we’ll it sounds like you will need some further adjustments. Basic principle is where you have excess, pin it & move it out of your pattern through a seam or dart. Hope that helps.

[@georgegruschow]

Have you considered making a well fitted bodice with such a thick material that it holds you in raw shrimp posture? Think of it as a shell! 😁🦐

[@Gregandhisboys]

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@lindas5964]

😂😂😂 oh thank you for the smile. this helped me so much. After completely sewing in my zipper and bodice lining today only to try it on and see it all misshapend, just so depressing because I worked so hard on it, took my time etc… it is unwearable.

[@JoyfromHope]

This was so easy to follow! Watching you through the process makes it seem much less scary. Thank you!

[@SewAnastasia]

Woohoo 🥳 this is great to hear :) you can do it!!!

[@davirasdarkside4263]

*Brilliant Thank you kindly! Now impress me more by cutting it so you don't need a dart at the bottom and it fits w/o darts. I usually just put a dart there but no more since this video. So instead of a dart at the top you need one at the bottom. Just by making the armhole smaller. interesting. Pattern drafting is so cool!* Can you make a bodice with a much larger bust pls. xoxo

[@SewAnastasia]

You need darts or stylelines somewhere unless you are cutting something on the bias or it’s a knit fabric.

[@pamskojec3458]

I'm so glad I found you! This answers so many questions. I've been sewing for many years and had no problems with the fit, but now I've gained weight and need more adjustments. I can see that I'll have to learn some new techniques. I've subscribed and hope to learn more from you. Thanks.

[@SewAnastasia]

@@pamskojec3458 Happy sewing & thank you for watching 🎀

[@zo1820]

Wow yes, I’m like all the others who say they didn’t realize it was this adjustment that could make such a difference. I think I must have been in denial about my body changes because I’ve been sewing since a teenager. I was never a busty girl but when I started sewing bras I discovered how wrong I was. Thank you for explaining so well. I can’t wait to try this technique.☺️

[@SewAnastasia]

@@zo1820 Happy sewing 🧵

[@nadiafeaster1117]

🤯. This was the problem I had and you helped me solve! Thank you!

[@SewAnastasia]

Welcome 🤗

[@kittybrowning]

Ty this was a lot easier to follow than others I found

[@SewAnastasia]

@@kittybrowning Happy to hear 🎀🤗

[@curious8890]

Thank you for showing us how to transfer the markings from the fabric to the pattern

[@SewAnastasia]

@@curious8890 Welcome 🤗

[@yvonnevee1006]

Can’t wait to try this you made it so easy to understand thank you ❤

[@SewAnastasia]

Welcome 🤗

[@ashdacraft]

❤I will be binging this channel later. Learning so much even as an experienced sewist!

[@SewAnastasia]

@@ashdacraft Thank you for watching 🎀

[@caroldoolam2310]

Thank you,i have a question, do you have to reshape the bodice block at the waist?

[@liadanducky]

I always have an arm pit flap! This is perfect!!

[@SewAnastasia]

@@liadanducky woohoo 🥳 Now you can fix your patterns.

[@lindak8664]

Best timing ever! I stood there last night looking in the mirror at the armholes in the bodice i was trying out. Swearing at the flippy flappy armholes, wondering how the hecko 😖 i was supposed to fix that. And look what popped up in today’s feed! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 What happens next though. How do i get the sleeve to fit the new shape? The sleeve… is it “cap”, will have the wrong circumference now, won’t it?

[@SewAnastasia]

You will need to walk your sleeve & make adjustments to it. Check out this video How To Adjust Cap Ease On Sleeves Pattern Drafting Tutorial! kzbin.info/www/bejne/nH61aIBunq-WjpY

[@JanaAngelinaParker]

Thx you 😭 I was needing that right yesterday... And was sooo upset that it have this little wings... Back to the drawing board 😮 😅 and thx to you I guess I can make it finish now. ❤

[@SewAnastasia]

So happy to hear I could help. :)

[@halfbakedhanart8727]

This was so helpful! Thank you so much for the video.

[@lynnieblinnie1066]

Its like magic. Thank you for this

[@SewAnastasia]

Welcome :)

[@Maab120]

Thank you for the clear explanation. I’m about to make a loose-fitting dress with no darts on bodice. Is it still possible to do a fba?

[@SewAnastasia]

@@Maab120 It is still possible. Draw a style line where the princess line would be & cut there to transfer excess. Then if you want to get rid of the extra flair you add, take it out of the side seam.

[@victoriahannah1633]

Thank you for showing how to do this.

[@SewAnastasia]

@@victoriahannah1633 welcome 🤗

[@ginaarchuleta1298]

First, you make wonderful sewing content Anastasia!! I was wondering if there was any hacks for fixing this problem on tops you already own and are not drafting a pattern for?

[@Anna-kj2bd]

Yay! Can't wait to watch!!

[@SewAnastasia]

🥰

[@semaj1315]

What if instead of a waist dart you have a fish eye dart how would you cut and open that up? Would you open it from the middle or the sides?

[@aichamuhammad5904]

Is there a video for FBA for longer shirt without the waist dart? And is there a video of how to stitch the fba pattern adjustment..? There are none on the internet from where you could see from pattern to stitching full dart

[@SewAnastasia]

I am not sure I fully understand what you are asking for.

[@aichamuhammad5904]

@@SewAnastasia are you familiar with Indian long Kurta..Normally nowadays they don't have any darts. Is it possible to do bust adjustment on that? Material is mostly Raw Silk fabric. Or with one side bust dart, because it's not a oduce and like a long straight dress

[@aichamuhammad5904]

@@SewAnastasia and I meant that is there a watch along from pattern to stitching on your channel

[@allegra7417]

This was very helpful, thank you so much! I got a question though: I have a basic bodice with two darts, one like yours and one directly above it . Should I make the alteration to the dart on the one above the mid of the bust or the one that you altered or should I split it up evenly?

[@vurlious]

i also have this question! help! 😂😅

[@herrcintron]

Great tutorial! Can you do this on a raglan sleeve pattern, too?

[@SewAnastasia]

You can do it on any pattern .

[@suzannelatulippe7919]

Very clear explanation on how to amend the pattern but I am confused about something (not much experience with sewing). When adjusting the new pattern, the existing dart on the pattern changes as well. So what happens if that piece of the bodice is already sewn with the original dart? Need to cut a new piece with the new pattern piece? Or is the idea to check the fit first with a toile?

[@SewAnastasia]

You will need to cut a new piece of fabric for the bodice. It is a whole new pattern piece.

[@haladraj]

Thans a lot. You solve my problem. So instead to having too tight bust, i can ease up the bust and redraw the armhole line.

[@SewAnastasia]

I'm glad I could help! Making those adjustments should definitely solve the problem.

[@ucheopara3827]

What happens when there's a gap on a princess dart bodice? Is that recitified the same way?

[@SewAnastasia]

Take in the princess seam to bring it tighter together.

[@nishavi1]

Dear Sew Anastasia, I hope u r doing well. I have a curious query!! It's about easing required in the pattern of a deep neck, fitted blouse of waist length. In the above-mentioned kind of pattern, does the easing needed in the bust circumference vary with respect to the high bust circumference of a body. That is, if the high bust of a pattern is 32", the ease needed in the bust has to be lesser than that which is needed for the pattern with 42" high bust. thanks in advance :)

[@bebeflamand1]

How big can a dart become before you split the difference in multiple darts? And in case you split the dart, where would you place the additional dart? For example the pattern is drafted for a B-cup but the actual bust is a J-cup (or more)?

[@SewAnastasia]

You can take extra out of the side seam too. You can put darts anywhere you want

[@janasybrandy6525]

❤ Lpve this tutorial!

[@SewAnastasia]

Thank you for watching :)

[@jodycotsmire6360]

What if you need the opposite? Would you add to the arm and take away from the waist?

[@SewAnastasia]

You could totally do that! As long as you don’t completely get rid of your dart.

[@SewAnastasia]

I mean you could completely get rid of your dart but assuming you want a dart there.

[@janeahrens572]

I like your videos! One question on the FBA, doesn’t this method make a smaller armhole? On the form it works, but on the body, it changes the way it will fit the sleeve, won’t it? And does it make it so the front comes up ? That is your waistline on the garment is too high?

[@SewAnastasia]

It does make the armhole smaller which you need because you don't need all that fabric there flapping around. You will also need to change your sleeve to fit the new armhole. This will not make your front come up that I have ever seen. It will keep your front where it is. It is just making your dart bigger which you can also make smaller by taking it out of the side seam.

[@barbarajohnson7184]

What about the sleeve since you changed the armhole?

[@SewAnastasia]

You will have to adjust that too if you have a sleeve.

[@zeldamic7746]

What if the commercial pattern does not have a dart at the waistline? How do you do a FBA?

[@zeldamic7746]

@@SewAnastasiahow do you adjust the armhole ?

[@SewAnastasia]

@@zeldamic7746 draw a line to cf waist & slash & overlap or you can slash to another point too.

[@SewAnastasia]

@@zeldamic7746 we just adjusted the armhole no?

[@curious8890]

Can you do a video on how to change ready-to-wear FBA

[@jeannettasmith2825]

Once the FBA is made in the front bodice, are there corresponding changes that need to be made in the bodice back in order to keep side and shoulder seams lined up?

[@evelynr7069]

If the shoulder or side seams arent changed (these weren't) then they will line up.

[@ConkreteMan]

There are techniques I learn on your channel that are not applicable to me personally, but I enjoy gaining the knowledge. I guess I need to find the right female friends and family members and make them something so I can practice. 😂

[@SewAnastasia]

Totally!!!! Or you could get a half scale dress form to practice designing on.

[@sherryannsnyder]

Nice and to the point. no pun in intended.

[@sophiemercedes1]

ok but I have a lot of tshirts where i cut the sleeves, and i ended up with that wing thingy. IS there a way i can do this without making a pattern?

[@SewAnastasia]

Yes. You would have to sew a dart there. Turn the wing into a dart since it is an existing garment.

[@gaynormainwaring1853]

Excellent! Thank you.

[@lorideheras3580]

What if you don’t have the bottom dart?

[@shirenenourbash1771]

How do you adjust the sleeve now that the armscye is shorter?

[@SewAnastasia]

I have some videos on adjusting sleeves. Check em out.

[@jilllazdane8861]

Magic!

[@SewAnastasia]

Totally!

[@JeannineLaPorte]

How do you remove the arm flippy flaps on a dart-less bodice???

[@SewAnastasia]

Transfer it somewhere to the waist to release it and then take that amount out of the side seam.

[@rosalindabarrett7508]

Thanks

[@SewAnastasia]

Aww, thanks! You're the best!

[@Sabine69]

Thank you so much! ❤

[@CallMeMrRook]

Is this FBA or just darting?

[@SewAnastasia]

I do not create a dart. I get rid of the excess in the armhole/bust area. This is one type of bust adjustment that is needed alot on patterns. There are many types of bust adjustments. This one is about getting rid of that flap! Woohoo. 🥳 Happy sewing.

[@CallMeMrRook]

​@@SewAnastasiathank you, i understand now what you have done. I like to think i dont know everything about a subject and ask questions to enhance my knowledge. I need a pinwheel

[@SewAnastasia]

@@CallMeMrRook all questions are welcome. A pinwheel is a great tool to have.

[@karenschwab7736]

How to do a full bust adjustment on ready to wear?

[@lindieinred]

What if your pattern doesn’t have a dart?

[@SewAnastasia]

You can always add one. Check out my recent video on adding back darts.

[@damlakacmaz8743]

thanks

[@SewAnastasia]

Welcome!

[@mnels5214]

That is the simplest FBA I've ever seen.

[@SewAnastasia]

🎀💕

[@kowtharhassan882]

Why Don't u show us this work on the fabric itself

[@SewAnastasia]

Huh ? I don’t understand.

[@kowtharhassan882]

@@SewAnastasia u made all the adjustments on paper and not on fabric. Correct?

[@SewAnastasia]

@@kowtharhassan882 it went from fitting wrong on fabric to paper to sewing up the new one in fabric. You cannot make the adjustment just in the cut out bodice.

[@lashaundaclemmons327]

How to get a tailored bodice block is it made like a acrylic 📐

[@SewAnastasia]

You can downvote a paper one here that I made in sizes 0-38 anastasiachatzka.com/collections/digital-patterns/products/sloper-dress-pdf-pattern-download?variant=44484583522610