SEWdown: Two Methods Hemming Knit Garments Go Head to Head - Twin Needle VS Zigzag Stitch

There's a universal truth in sewing that will help you feel better about your skills. No matter the technique, there is more than one "right" way to do it. It turns out that Sarai and Haley each hem their knits differently.
Sarai takes the time to thread a twin needle to mimic the professional hemming of a coverstitch machine. Haley prefers to take a shortcut and go for a strong, simple zigzag stitch.
Whose approach will reign this time?
💬 That's up to you to decide! Vote in the comments! And if you do this a totally different way, say it loud and proud! You might help someone find a better way to tackle this technique.
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Chapters
00:00 - The SEWdown
00:36 - Twin needle tips
01:03 - Zigzag tips
01:19 - Zigzag pros
01:47 - Zigzag cons
02:21 - Twin needle pros
02:41 - Twin needle cros
Outfit Details
👗 Haley is wearing a Seamwork Bo: www.seamwork.com/catalog/bo
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[@michellelambton3636]

Zig zag for old fabric, I turn my old tee shirts into undershirts. Twin needle and stabilizer for new fabric. And! I learned about the width between those twins. Too wide and your fabric will tunnel. Gosh, I’m just realizing how far I’ve come in my sewing journey😊 thanks Seamwork Team!

[@SeamworkVideo]

Isn't it fun to stop and think about all the things you've learned? You're so right that the width between the needles contributes to the tunneling. More width also allows for more stretch, so it's always a good idea to experiment with it first!

[@lynnshepard7485]

I started with a zigzag, went to a twin needle and then bought a coverstitch machine. I use the coverstitch most of the time. 😊 I’m experimenting with Seraflex thread now also, and I always use it for seaming knits if I don’t want to have serged seams.

[@SeamworkVideo]

Great tip!

[@GreyRose333]

I started with a zig zag stitch and then bought a Cover Stitch machine for a store-bought look.

[@marydiamond3322]

I’ve been sewing for 50 ish years and love my 1948 Singer. I bought a 1980ish Kenmore brand new and in the box from an acquaintance I chuckled when it was categorized as “vintage”. I thought I would try a twin needle and I am totally hooked. I love the professional look. I was so excited when it worked the first time!

[@SeamworkVideo]

That's so great that it was a smooth experience on the first try!

[@Jeanniebugg]

I think both have their place in my knit sewing life. I definitely prefer the look of a twin needle. But, I like the simplicity of a zig zag. If it's a project where the thread blends with the fabric, I'll use a zig zag. If it's a project where the thread will be seen, I'll use a twin needle.

[@portlandgander]

I like both, I prefer zig zag for the hems as it’s stretchier and twin needle for the neckline as it’s the most visible finish of the three

[@lorraineyoung5909]

The twin needle looks more RTW but is that our goal? I think of my clothes as custom made. And who can tell the difference from 3 feet away. I find an narrow zig zag works well, doesn't need a stabilizer or machine rethread. Zig zag for the win.

[@nwinning]

I agree 100%. I go with the narrow zigzag if I’m not using the cover stitch. I used to care about looking RTW, but now I just want it to look like I made it, but still well done

[@physioontheriver7325]

I love these sew downs! I think twin needle looks smarter but zig zag is less hassle. But I think twin needle wins the day! Diana

[@SeamworkVideo]

So glad you're loving the sew downs! They are really fun to make!

[@susancorvalan6765]

Coverstitch is best for max stretch. Zig zag for casual wear with a print that disguises the stitch a bit.

[@ayshanikole3267]

I’ve never used a twin needle before and I’m still trying to figure out the right stitch length and tension for the zigzag stitch on my different knit projects. I’m in love with how professional the twin needle finishes the hem. So I’m going to definitely try it out 😊

[@SeamworkVideo]

Definitely experiment with stitch length/tension with each knit as they can differ pretty wildly. Have fun trying the twin needle!

[@cherylkinnear9917]

Twin needle, hands down! It's far more professional looking. The extra time and effort is worth it.

[@ritaadler-everett5392]

Like Lynn Shepard (see her comment below), I learned with a zig zag, then moved to the twin needle but now my preferred method is using the Gütermann Maraflex Thread. It's brilliant, my machine loves it and I can use a straight stitch.

[@SeamworkVideo]

I've never tried the Maraflex, I'll have to check it out!

[@kathleenhillman1191]

Twin needle, hands down! It's not THAT much trouble to switch the needle and thread the machine twice, but it gives a much more professional-looking finish. Zigzag hems just don't cut it. 😊

[@PibbleMom297]

Simple answer: They're both good!! It depends upon how you want your garment to look. For example, if making knit clothing for little ones who will outgrow them in what seems like a day and a half, use a zig zag stitch. Little kids care what type of stitching you use. If you're making a knit garment for a special occasion and you want it to look professional, use the "twins". I have quite a few machines, and I have one set up all the time with twin ballpoint needles so I don't have to swap out needles every time I want a coverstitch look. The machine I use is vintage and does a lovely job with them. The key to prevent tunneling is to use stabilizer (although I often don't and still get a good result) and test some scraps of your fabric for the appropriate tension. You'll most likely have to adjust your bobbin tension as well.

[@janisroberts8137]

Tw In needle for me@

[@laurenopgenorth7461]

I've been team zigzag since my previous machine would not tolerate a twin needle, no matter how many settings and tricks I tried. But this reminds me - I need to try again on my new machine!

[@SeamworkVideo]

It's worth a try! Some machines are more finicky than others with the twin needle. Maybe your new one will behave! 😄

[@tinawalker4188]

I definitely prefer the twin needle. It looks more professional and I’ve had better luck with them. I have purchased a coverstitch machine, so now I don’t have to bother with switching needles. I get it set up as I prepare to go and it’s already ready to go when it’s time to hem.

[@SeamworkVideo]

The coverstitch is a game changer for sure!

[@lyriaflorez6654]

Zig zag! Easy is the best route for me

[@SeamworkVideo]

Easy is often best!

[@4314pw]

I like the way the twin needle looks and I don’t think it is that much extra trouble, but the ease of the zigzag is good, I use it for kids clothes as I don’t want to spend a ton of time on something that will only fit a year or so.

[@donitatoavs]

I always prefer the coverstitch. However, if you don’t have one of those, I’ll always choose the double needle whenever possible!

[@kathypariso6102]

My preference is a coverstitch machine and I only resort to using a twin needle when the coverstitch won't feed the fabric properly (usually due to many layers). The zigzag just makes things look home made.

[@momto7ify]

I have tried both and I like the zigg zag stitch

[@SeamworkVideo]

Nice and easy!

[@amyl2368]

Zigzag. I get tunneling with double needle regardless of tension changes or stabilizer (even Sarai’s example was a bit tunneled!) and it’s just not stretchy enough. Unless you have contrasting threat no one even notices the difference in look between the two. Also, though you don’t use twin needles very often they tend to break more easily, especially when going over thick seams, and especially especially when using a hump jumper over thick seams. And threading is a big PIA

[@gypsyrose813]

When I sewed for my little girl, it was eaither a rolled hem or a zig zag stitch. I LOVE the look of the twin needle, so I think I would go with that one if I was making something for work or an evening out. For me, it depends on what I am making.... every day clothes would get the zig zag stitch (I'd need that for putzig around the house. If I were dressing up it would be the twin needle. I love how it looks. P.S. I LOVED your video... keep 'em coming!

[@SeamworkVideo]

So glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!

[@simonedias4631]

I love the polished professional look of the twin needle. That is my choice for hemming knits.

[@trishaspencer9956]

I like how professional twin needle looks, haven’t had any problems with popping.

[@MaryC546]

I love the way a twin needle hem looks on knits. I have had trouble with tunneling in the past so I would definitely recommend using a stabilizer and adjusting the machine tension. After a few scrap tests, I can usually get it to look ok.

[@SeamworkVideo]

A stabilizer definitely helps with the tunneling!

[@ategetho]

I literally made a shirt yesterday and had this debate in my own head. I have used both and like both. For this project the zigzag won out because it was easy, no swaping things out, and it disappeared into the print on the shirt. It still looks nice and im thrilled with how it turned out.

[@SeamworkVideo]

Nice!

[@annamarieerba7716]

Twin needle. I love you BOTH!🤩

[@SeamworkVideo]

Thanks for watching!

[@sherryvanrijn5453]

I use zz or coverstitch, depending on the item. If I had to choose between zz and twin, then zz all the way.

[@margaretperkins1287]

I prefer the twin needle. It has such a nice professional look and certainly looks more like RTW. Thanks for the great video!

[@alisonkemp1671]

I like both, but I have just learned how to do twin needling on my machine so at the moment it’s winning due to the novelty 😊

[@SeamworkVideo]

That's awesome!

[@vladimirmach6145]

The best is using the bordered zigzag with a twin needle. That can fully substitute the coverlock.

[@susanah7157]

I allways hem with a zigzag stitch. It is easy and if you play around with width and length of the stitch, it looks professional too. I am team zigzag🙂

[@jeans.9664]

I love these videos, thank you for sharing your laughter! I love the way the twin needle hem looks but I'm voting for Haley's zigzag method. I have tried both and the zigzag is much easier for me, both in setup and in consistency.

[@SeamworkVideo]

So glad you're enjoying the videos!

[@kckazcoll1]

for ease, I choose zig zag, but for the professional finish I choose twin needle. Such a pain threading twice, though :D PS. Why was Sarai's mic so much clearer than Haley's? I found a real difference in volume between the two

[@nataliehitchens4498]

Twin needles all the way for me!

[@gertrudewelsh781]

Twin Needle team for me. But I don't use a stabilizer and I serge the edge of the hem first then topstitch really close to the edge. I use a regular foot and woolly nylon in the bobbin.

[@SeamworkVideo]

Wooly nylon is definitely helpful to add some stretch!

[@AmandaCurnow]

I'm also Team Twin Needle, i think it looks more professional too. great fun video :D

[@carlalissa7693]

Before I bought my coverstitch, I tried both approaches. Zig zag easy and satisfying but no ready to wear look. Twin needle had the ready to look appearance but the performance was not there. My solution prior to the coverstitch machine was the triple straight stitch: was stretchy enough, bold and did not look homemade.

[@lynnhardy2221]

Twin needle with fuzzy nylon on the lower bobbin

[@SeamworkVideo]

The stretch thread in the bobbin definitely helps!

[@karenspockl563]

Twin needle! But I find that for more casual/sporty shirts I like the flatlock stitch on my overlocker (don't have a coverstitch)

[@pamfoss1434]

what's a flatlock stitch? i have a serger but dont know this stitch

[@karenspockl563]

@@pamfoss1434 it's a stitch on the overlocker that looks like a ladder on one side and like the typical overlock stitch on the other. You can have either one on the outside. I recommend the channel 'Melly sews' - she has a great tutorial on this with all the options...

[@pamfoss1434]

thanks , i cheked out MELLY sews and it looks like i have a new sewing site, lots of great videos and info , thanks for the info :)

[@karenspockl563]

@@pamfoss1434 yes, if you use this stitch for hemming you should disengage the knife. And you have to play around with the tension. Best to test it out on fabric scraps first

[@sharonhost2469]

I use a twin needle on all of my knits so I vote team Sarai.

[@kristine2916]

twin needle works perfectly on machines with side-load bobbins. For new computerized machines with top-load bobbins were you do not have bobbin holder and can not adjust bobbin thread tension twin needles are not good and Sarai's results only prove it. Finished seam with twin needle has to have distinct zig-zag line on the back to provide stretchability and coverage, not almost straight line like in her sample. And that tunneling.... huh! Tunneling is direct result of wrong tension and bad seam. In fact twin needle seams is the only reason why I still keep my ages old Pfaff with side-load bobbins. When I am not lazy and want nise twin needle seam, I use it instead of my new machine. When I do not bother (most often), I use zig-zag.

[@SparkyOne549]

I don’t sew with knits, I only sew with cottons for summer clothes. Personally, I do not like the look of a zigzag stitch, which I used all the time to finish the seams of cottons, but being cotton fabric, I only do a straight stitch hem. Now I have a machine that does overcast stitches. If I do want to sew with knits, I would prefer the twin needle for hems.

[@juliecoleman2532]

Twin needle looks so much better

[@raewynmattsaunders105]

Twin needle every day!! ❤

[@pjacksreads536]

Twin needle looks professional: however the serger in my opinion is better

[@jaymillymills]

Both are correct. Zig-zag is better if you're looking for twin is better if you're looking for fashion

[@SeamworkVideo]

The best part of sewing is that there are so many ways to accomplish the same goal. The variety of choice keeps it interesting!

[@shawnyabrown8111]

I really think it depends on what you are sewing...and I agree if you want your clothes to look store bought..

[@wendyneal4900]

I tried a twin needle… it worked okay, not great. Then I bought a cover stitch machine. If I didn’t have one, I’d still go with the twin needle. Looks more like ready-to-wear.

[@rewritingastory]

I use a twin needle for hemming knits because I prefer that finish over a zig-zag stitch.

[@justletmesew]

Even though twin needles can be tricky, I prefer the look over zig zag 😊

[@suewilbur504]

Sorry, Hailey - twin needle gets my vote. It’s worth the inconvenience of switching out the needle as it just looks more finished to me.

[@SeamworkVideo]

😁

[@nwinning]

I have never been able to get good results with a twin needle, so if I’m not using my cover stitch machine, I will use a zigzag.

[@SeamworkVideo]

The twin needle can definitely be trickier.

[@rholt8800]

I got tunneling even with stabilizer using a twin needle. I use a zig zag, no one notices it! Bought a coverstitch machine because I love sewing knits and wanted that ready to wear look (I noticed it!)

[@SeamworkVideo]

The coverstitch is so handy for RTW-looking knits.

[@cathj8568]

Love a zig zag

[@linda66]

Yes! Definitely a twin needle. I love using mine. Sorry Hayley 😅

[@annlidslot8212]

Hi, If I ever get to the point of using either I believe I will be with the others that states that they like both for different uses. A zig-zag for ease and convenience and a double needle for appearance. Always fun to get a new installment of Seamworks World, though I sometimes feel that Seamworks is a bit heavy on the knits and not so much on the woven side of things, but that might just be me and my prejudism. Yours, Ann

[@SeamworkVideo]

What kind of info on wovens are you looking for? I'd be happy to point you in the right direction!

[@annlidslot8212]

@@SeamworkVideo Hi, I mostly get that general feeling from seeing the patterns that comes out every month, I think. I realize that knits are easy to sew if you have a serger, but when what you have is a vintage gentleman of a Husqvarna Automatic, the first and only machine I have, the result isn't always brilliant. Sometimes I feel a little left out. That doesn't mean that it's important, though. One of my favorite authors puts it best "just because something is personal, doesn't mean that it's important." (Terry Pratchett, RIP) Most patterns you release seem to me to be very "comfy", in the not so good interpretation of the word. There are lots of connections between Seamwork patterns and the esthetics in my country, wich to be honest is some version of a pajama pant type swett pants and a baggy t-shirt. I can get that from any mass market store around me, and that's not my idea of a good time. I live in those clothes already and would love something different. 26 and a half year ago I was in a car accident and got a very severe whiplash injury. After that I need to spend most of my time in bed resting my neck and back in very severe pain. Wearing a sloppy pajama and t-shirt is what I would like to get away from, though some level of comfortable is necessary, even I do remember that, that's why I came to Seamwork to begin with. As an example, I would love a pair of nice soft linen pants with some elegant aspect to them (to get them away from feeling like a sloppy pajama), but all I see are to short pants legs in something looking a bit boring.I have no idea how to calculate how much extra everything I need to make them full length. How do I make them straight up and down without getting a palazzo pant or a skinny. A blouse or top with some sort of lace maybe, but how do I go about figure out how to change say York, to put some in or on there. So simple ways to... is the word I'm looking for leveling up?... the good and easy to sew things by changing something to make them feel somewhat less pajama-like and that I can wear on my bed and not feel like something like the cat dragged in during the night and now is dead on my rug. and at the same time wear those clothes out. I have run out of clothes to wear out, and it been so long that I haven't the foggiest about what my personal style is any more, except that I don't want to wear worn out pajama wear out, really. I have tried your method but I couldn't get it to work on me. That is on me, of course. I realize that my motivation for learning to sew and figure out who I want to be, is not the majority rule on your website and company, and I don't mean to offend in any way. In this particular series I questions I have are on the line of how do I know what the Universal Needles are for? When is it best to use a microtex instead of a universal 60. Sorry I'm going on European numbers here. My needles are in my kitchen and that is a trekk at the moment, and I don't know the other numbers by heart. Another question can be why an invisible zipper and not a lapped zipper and when is it appropriate to use a plain regular zipper instead? I've figured out if I ever get to make my own rash-guard I would like to have an exposed big toothed (?) zipper on there as much for the design as for functionality, but what are the metal toothed zippers for? This is of course not a full list of things I would like to do and know, but example of what I mean when things look a bit knits heavy among the patterns, and what I miss. Also, I haven't been able to make a lot of patterns, as my injury only allows me so many hour per week in a standing, walking and sitting position, before the thing I'm doing will cost a lot of extra time in/on my bed. It's a drag, but that's life, right? Life is not for the faint of heart. As It stands I have 26 credits to get patterns, is there a way to still be in Seamwork system but not earn credits for a while. I feel like I'll never have time to use all those credits up? Or can I donate some credits to someone that can use them for something good, as they only sit there in my account at the moment? Oh yes I just remember... If there is any way to make a proper swing coat (I've also have heard the shape called a delta, in coats and dresses) in an easy or intermediate pattern, I would go for it immediately. One of my dreams really. Well I hope that I have explained myself in some way coherently. If you want more of an answer, please let me know. Yours, Ann PS. I forgot one thing. I would love to be shown different types of fabrics. At least for the fabrics you recommend and/or use. Like what is a faille and how does it move? Will a silk faille fall the same way as rayon faille? How does a thin wool crêpe differ from a rayon (viscose, Tencel etc) crêpe, with moving pictures, and may many more fabrics. If your access to a good fabric store is severely limited like like mine, a series of shorts like that would be invaluable. I would love seeing knits too, because they are a complete mystery too. Why are some jerseys called interlock jersey, what does french terry look like and what is Ponte di Roma? Can you buy Merino knit fabric and what is a good way to use it? Okay, I think I'm done now. Thank you for your patience. DS.

[@ravensquad9331]

I go for quick and easy, also have a much older machine.

[@SeamworkVideo]

Quick and easy is often best!

[@maddied6309]

I agree with Sarai on this one...twin needle hands down! It looks more professional, zigzag hems just don't do it... 😊

[@abbyvon]

Zigzag stitch :)

[@elzinawhite3199]

Twin needle

[@michellestarr8326]

Twin needle for the win.

[@Chitterboye]

Two needles for me.

[@danicourtnay]

Zig zag all the way.

[@bhbryant]

I tried to get the twin needle to work on my machine. I tried so hard! I never could get it to work on my light, super stretch t-shirt fabric. It did ok on mid-weight fabric. I've given up and have moved to full-time ziz-zag stitcher for my hems.

[@lynnshepard7485]

Try using Wonder Tape or similar before you stitch the hem. It works!

[@SeamworkVideo]

I love using Wonder Tape when I hem knits! It's so helpful!

[@SeamworkVideo]

Nothing wrong with the zig zag! You have to do what works well!

[@Dranma51]

I like the twin needle only because it looks more professional

[@SeamworkVideo]

It does lend such a professional look!

[@emilyobrien6441]

Twin Needle! Any recommendations for keeping the seams from popping? I never have any issues with the arms and neck but the bottom seams always seem to pop even with wooly nylon in the bobbin!

[@SeamworkVideo]

That's tough! It is one of the downsides of twin needle hems for sure. Have you tried increasing your stitch length? You could test some swatches by stretching them really hard to see if it pops.

[@emilyobrien6441]

@@SeamworkVideo Thanks! I don't think I've tried that, I'll give it a whirl!

[@pamelat9397]

I like twin

[@donnasanders966]

I don’t like threading double needles and I do get tunneling. I tried the zigzag stitch but something was wrong and it didn’t zigzag the whole time. I don’t know what was wrong.

[@SeamworkVideo]

Hmmmm, that is strange. I would double check that your machine is threaded correctly, and maybe take it in for service if it keeps happening.

[@saf3508]

Twin needle!

[@user-bk4xx9lw4z]

Hi girls is Hailey using the Bo blouse?

[@SeamworkVideo]

Yep!

[@LostMyThread]

Zigzag. It is way too time consuming to experiment to get a perfect channel free twin needle stitch. Honestly don't know if I've ever done it. I get much neater results with a twin needle. Who wants to look like RTW, anyway? 😉

[@SeamworkVideo]

Sometimes the simpler approach is best!

[@brutusabundia2734]

Three step zigzag is an other very good option

[@SeamworkVideo]

Yes, that's a great one as well.

[@dryvonne1999]

Zig zag

[@Golfgirlv]

Two. Needle. Or of course get a cover stitch machine 😂

[@jojorichmond8005]

Strictly from looks - I'd prefer a twin needle......

[@SeamworkVideo]

It definitely looks closer to ready-to-wear than the zig zag does.

[@terrimartin3034]

Twin needle- which has a zig zag on wrong side

[@SeamworkVideo]

Yes, the bobbin thread forms what looks like a zig zag on the bottom as it loops between the two needles. Pretty cool!

[@deskunrest]

Twin needle. No contest. I really don’t like how unprofessional zigzag looks.

[@lisawunderlich5131]

Twin needle!

[@Naki50]

Twin needle

[@dillismoore432]

Twin needle