Lathe taper attachment part #1

[@howder1951]

Looks great Stan, I have always been curious about turning tapers in the home shop. Your explanations and discussion of theory are fascinating to say the least. Looking forward to future progress on this one, cheers!

[@outsidescrewball]

Good explanation, demo, build, video....enjoyed and will be interesting to follow the design/build

[@larrymunday7519]

Turn the rod block 180 degrees on the headstock end for more adjustability. Nice build!

[@dennisleadbetter7721]

Stan, An interesting project. Instead of your single plate connection to the slide, if you made that into a U shaped connecting plate and have a tube welded to the side of the sliding tube, that would eliminate the potential for the rotation and allow for vertical alignment changes and all you would need is a pin, not a bolt. Similar to a leaf spring mounting, but you can have the multiple pin positions to suit your job application and cross slide travel.

[@raymondmarteene7047]

Hi Stan, Over on “build, fix, create” channel he has added a micrometer head to the pivoting end (right hand side) of his taper turning attachment on his Logan lathe, this allows him to fine tune the taper settings, very interesting how he went about it. Looking forward to the rest of the build. Cheers Raymond

[@atowning]

That's a very neat design Stan, looking forward to the end results. One I may copy. Regards Andy T

[@pierresgarage2687]

Nice idea, I'm anxious to see how you gonna overcome the rigidity of that 20mm bar, actual cutting pressures are surprisingly high and may cause quite special resulting shapes as the position changes on the bar... To be continued....

[@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537]

That looks great - clever. Bearings are a good add. Should repeat very well. _Dan_

[@Lakesidearmorer]

I like it! Very interested Stan, I have the exact same Logan and have been toying with making a tapper attachment. Would really like to get the measurements when you are done. I have two of the slotted cross slides in hand. Thanks for the videos George

[@denniswilliams8747]

Good idea. I might try your version. I like it. You might want to find some "Bellows" to keep dirt out of the linear bearings. Thanks

[@barrygerbracht5077]

I look forward to the cross slide modification for the nut disconnect as others have noted too. I also think that adjusting the taper with just a slotted nut will prove aggravating (especially for someone as fussy as you) when trying to dial in that last few 0.0001s on alignment. A screw mechanism for micro adjusting seems inevitable (or perhaps teflon washers between the clamp and nut).

[@ShadonHKW]

The cross slide disconnect is as easy as removing a single bolt from the top of the cross slide, it just allows the lead screw nut to float, I know other machines aren't going to be so easy, you may have to release the dial and unscrew or even take the cross slide apart. I am currently working on a DRO install for this machine with 1M scales, should make setting the attachment pretty easy using the read out. Thanks for the view and comment :)

[@dennisleadbetter7721]

Stan, if you're concerned about the flex in the bar, have you considered using the open style linear bearing and mount the bar on a continuous support mounted on a flat bar of steel which you could mount on your brackets. That would increase both vertical and horizontal stiffness of the bar. I'm not sure what cross loads the open linear bearings are capable.

[@EdgePrecision]

Stan, what if you make the attachment to your cross slide with a spherical bearing. That would allow the linear bearings to pivot on their axis and also the ball of the spherical would allow movement in the other plain lengthwise. That way the alignment of the end supports wouldn't be so critical or even critical at all. Just a thought look forward to your ultimate solution.

[@ShadonHKW]

Psst .. Pre release of part #2 is up, we will see who actually reads the comments :) I am not entirely happy with my final connection, I think a flexure joint would make the whole attachment more forgiving to elevation changes. Lets see who scrolls down ..... . . . . . . . . . . kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXixaXd5Zq-JfqM

[@daveanderson2316]

Shadon HKW I'm watching you mister. Gotta love the big brain on Peter :)

[@raincoast2396]

Looking at the amount of swarf around the base of your mill Stan, I don't feel too bad now about my garage floor! lol Cheers.

[@ShadonHKW]

I just shove it in the corner till I need a rake!

[@CompEdgeX2013]

Damn, I hope this doesn't stick in my mind and make me start on mine. My pieces haven't "aged" enough yet...LOL The linear bearing idea is cool. ALmost no friction. I had planned to base mine loosely on the Logan design but use a cam roller bearing instead of the slider block on the flat bar. Eventually I'll get at it...could use a few morse taper blanks turned anyway.. :-)

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

That is interesting, I have not seen anyone do this before. I will be watching.

[@drubradley8821]

I look forward to the compounds leadscrew/nut disconnect method, maybe a "quick-disconnect lever" of sorts????

[@ShadonHKW]

Its just 1 bolt from the top of the carriage on mine, after that the lead screw nut just floats.

[@MaturePatriot]

Should have minimal deflection on the finish cuts. Was wondering how to build a taper attachment for my lathe!

[@jasonburns1407]

Thanks Stan looks great

[@gertskjlstrup1804]

Nice, cant wait for part 2

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Very nice setup happening.

[@jamesreed6121]

I like this approach. As with any new methodology there will be a debug period. I'm looking forward to what you will find and how you go about fixing the problems you find.This should be one of the more interesting you tube videos. Good luck. Be well and prosper.

[@ROBRENZ]

Looking good Stan! ATB, Robin

[@jasonburns1407]

Thanks for sharing Stan looks great

[@jimliechty2983]

I think I see a a sine bar attachment coming! Great video Stan! .....more than one way to skin and taper the tail of a cat!

[@k5at]

I don't think the cutting forces are going to be a problem, unless you are taking huge cuts. The forces will increase as the carriage moves from the tailstock end to the headstock. my2cents.

[@theradarguy]

Stan, you may want to consider not bisecting the two bearings for your saddle connection. In other words the connection point would be a couple of inches to the right of the left bearing while the right bearing might be as much as 12 inches further to the right. This would allow the cutter to get closer to the chuck and remember you may cut a taper with a dog or collet. Hope this is clear and makes sense.

[@ShadonHKW]

Hey Russ, The carriage is 11" wide, I spaced the bearings 10" (5 each direction from CL) I will run into the main clamps before bottoming out on the bearings, thanks for stopping by.

[@daveanderson2316]

Shadon HKW why don't you stop thinking things through and give us something to critique, thanks. ...

[@BigBoss-rh7zq]

Install a tilting device (bearing) at the far end to compensate for any miss alignment of the bar.

[@robmckennie4203]

If you wanted to measure deflection from cutting forces, you could set up an indicator on the cross slide and zero on the bar, then when you're taking a cut it would give a sort of "repeat" reading of the flex in the bar between the bearings and the stylus. Probably not hugely useful, just telling you what you already know, but could be interesting

[@robmckennie4203]

Do you think you'd be able to cover precision taper setups in the future?

[@mikenixon9164]

Nice clean job

[@BigBoss-rh7zq]

Perhaps the static deflection is not the main problem. You need to see how it react during cutting......

[@TERRYRONALDRACKLEY]

Good upgrade.

[@stargatefred]

Don’t hide this away I would like to see it when I come down for the bash. Bill from Seattle

[@gh778jk]

Wow! If it is a 20 mm bearing it can't be 26 INCHES long! That's just wrong man...just wrong! This is where monster-legends come from! Kisses! Paddy PS love your solution for the slot! This prevents you from having to mill an arced slot... and it's dead-simple. I may do the same

[@minproceng1218]

How consistent will the position and attitude of the mounting blocks be when they are clamped at different positions along the bed? What is to prevent them from losing their parallelism when clamped in different positions? Just a thought I had.

[@ShadonHKW]

The bed is precision ground, the clamps should follow suit :)

[@stephen7334]

I don’t think deflection will be much of a problem. What are the advantages to doing this way rather than having it live on the back of the carriage and one clamp when in use?

[@ShadonHKW]

I'm just worried about cutting forces, any taper attachment I have seen is disconnected from the carriage when not being used.

[@bcbloc02]

Interesting project.

[@krazziee2000]

very cool addition ,,

[@pacokelly5536]

Very interesting.

[@llamatrails2]

Could you add a verticle pivot point on one end block and a verticle fine adjust on the other? Seems like trying to get everything perfectly ground for parallelism to the travel of the carriage would be more difficult and still not allow for any verticle tuning other than with shims, especially if you ever shift the positions of the end blocks.

[@Oscar-Sh]

Stan, please take off the fisheye lens. Edit: It makes straight things look curved.

[@swojto2598]

Hi, no way is that linear bar is 36 inches

[@ShadonHKW]

I did in fact mis-speak, it is 30", good catch, need to add a caption to the video.

[@ShadonHKW]

Just went into the control panel, YT removed the ability to add captions and annotations :(