Shaper 101 Cutters and Jigs Used during the Nightstand Build

[@anonymousgeorge4321]

Steve, I appreciate you taking the time and going to the trouble to explain these things. Thanks

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks George, I plan to continue. Steve

[@ronh9384]

Hello Steve. I for one like the shaper stand a lone format. I’m hoping to expand my shop soon and plan on getting a shaper. I haven’t used one since my high school shop days and they have come a LONG way since then so I am learning a lot. Please keep them coming. Thanks. Ron

[@extremewoodworker]

Thank Ron, will do. Steve

[@markfoster2833]

Interesting, Thanks. After attending the Felder open house I am likley going to get a KF700SP so the Shaper info is helpful.

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Mark, those Felder open houses can be hazardous to bank account balances. DAMHIK - lol. Steve

[@RangateInc]

Some mighty fine tooling you have there... we might be biased, though :)

[@jeffdeluca1153]

So what;s the exact story with Garniga? Is Rangate a distributor or a mfr? Thank you

[@toddferguson549]

Steve I am thinking about purchasing an Aigner Contermax and wondered if you had any other comments on it. It seems like it is versatile and quick to setup and use. I have a 24” PanelCrafter that can be set up for coping also. It is quite heavy and requires air to operate the clamps though. I have used homebuilt sleds with toggle clamps for various coping tasks over the years too. I researching the Contermax I have seen two primary issues raised other than the minimum thickness you mentioned. One is that with thicker stock, say greater than 1” the clamping mechanism is too biased to the top of the material. I could see myself doing stock as thick as 1 3/4” potentially. The clamping mechanism on the PanelCrafter is limited to 1” or possibly 1 1/8” thick material. The second issue that I have seen mentioned is that the piece to be cut can get skewed a degree or two from 90 with the Contermax. Have you encountered this problem at all? I could also see this being caused by inaccurate cutting of the support blocking attached to the bottom of the Contermax. I would appreciate your input. Thanks.

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Todd, I have used the Contermax on stock as thick as 1-1/4" and did not notice any issues I have also not had any skewing of the workpieces. I doubt the problems are associated with inaccurate cutting but more likely attaching the block askew from 90 degrees. You do need to be careful when doing so and Aigner doesn't make is easy due to the handle configuration. I don't believe the Contermax is the bees knees of coping devices, it is just what I have. Steve

[@toddferguson549]

Thanks for your input on the Contermax Steve. Greatly appreciated.

[@toddferguson549]

Steve I did come across with a Rangate video where Joe Calhoun is demonstrating cutting a stub tenon joint with their adjustable groover which addresses the issue of wood thickness with the Aigner Contermax. He is cutting the stub tenon on a fairly narrow piece which he says is 45mm thick, about 1.75". He feeds it through at a slow to moderate pace but it appears to come out just fine. Doing some research it appears that my PanelCrafter 609 is able to take up to 1 7/8" thick pieces. I will have to try to verify that as it doesn't appear to do that right now. Maybe an adjustment needs to be made? On their website it also says that they now offer different handles that will take 3-4" thick stock. That would be more in the European window stock thickness. Although I am not sure I would want to hand hold/feed those cope cuts at all. A $2000 PanelCrafter vs a $10k Martin tenon attachment... The other question I would ask you Steve is if the Aigner Clamp Strip is a larger version of the Contermax since you own both. At first look it seems to me that one might be able to take the Clamp Strip and screw a wood offset on the non clamping side like the Contermax. Then replace the adjustable/ moveable clamp piece with a wood piece that could serve as a backer piece as well. It would gave to be done in such a way as to not allow the wood replacement piece to rotate. I have never really taken a look at the Clamp Strip but may need to make a run over to Martin this week and look at the two side by side. Perhaps I would be just adding complication to a tool that is unnecessary. Todd

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Todd, I have the Aigner Clamp Strip and it is definitely not the same as the Contermax. I suppose you could modify it to use as a coping fixture but it is much longer and I don't think it would be as effective. I don't find the clamp strip nearly as useful. Steve

[@toddferguson549]

Thanks again Steve. The beauty of woodworking is in part that there are usually various ways to accomplish a task. Todd

[@toddferguson549]

Well, I purchased the Contermax from Martin a couple weeks ago. Like all things Aigner it is a well built quality piece. The first project I used it on was cutting some cope tenons on 1/2" thick material with pieces about 2-3 feet long. I used a 3/4" thick backer block and even though this was thicker than the 1/2 material I found the if I carefully pressed the 1/2" stock to the Shaper table it would clamp it securely in the Contermax. I have some more 1/2" material to process this weekend and I will make the backer thinner and closer to the thickness of the clamp base this time. That should clamp it even better. I will also be doing some raised panel doors out of 3/4" material too. So that should work well. I have not seen any issue with the cuts not being at 90 degrees to the reference edge. Quite satisfied with the Contermax so far. I would recommend it.

[@Anthony-ny4cc]

Hey Steve, great info! Please keep the shaper video's coming as there doesn't seem to be much info for us novices! What size bore do you have? I'm in a metric shop, but bore size is one of the areas that i am unsure which way I should go....living in the US it seems like many of the local retailers only carry imperial size tooling. Would love your thoughts. Great video and Happy Thanksgiving

[@extremewoodworker]

Thanks Anthony, Happy Thanksgiving to you as well. I have a 1-1/4" spindle and my cutterheads mostly have metric dimensioned cutting diameters. I wouldn't hesitate to go with a 30mm spindle since reducer bushings are available to use 1-1/4" bore cutters on those. It gives a lot more flexibility that way. The Leuco adjustable groover I have started out a 30mm bore but they bored it out to 1-1/4. On shaper education, I would consider taking one of the Alpine Technical Workshop classes. The content is geared toward what the attendees want to see an do. It is an excellent experience. Steve

[@alexhernandez7949]

HI Steve, I need some advise. How would you set up a cutter to achieve a 1/2" thick 1/2" deep tongue centered along the edge of on 1-1/2" thick stock? Thanks in advance. Alex

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Alex. It depends on the cutters you have. I would do it with and adjustable groover with the opposing sides inward with spacer(s) to achieve the 1/2" tongue. This would enable a single pass. The other method would be to use a rabbet (or rebate cutter) with the protrusion1/2" above the table and out from the fence and use two passes. Steve

[@alexhernandez7949]

Thank you Steve. I am having trouble finding a cutter set up that would cut the 1-1/2 profile in one pass.

[@garygilbert1526]

Hi Steve, Can you tell me where you got the work apron you're wearing ? Thank you, Gary

[@TheWoodCraftsman]

Hey Steve, another great informative video. Yes, that raised panel cutter will definitely make you think twice. I have an insert style like that with a much beefier body, but still is very aggressive. I only run it with a power feed for raising panels. Most of my tooling is from DIT (Dimensions In Tooling from Granger Indiana). I have had extremely good luck with them, and custom tooling and inserts are very reasonable. Btw, what was your first shaper that you mentioned? Was it an asian knock-off of the Powermatic 26? As always I enjoy your videos and feedback. Thanks! Scott

[@extremewoodworker]

Hey Scott, yes those raised panel cutters definitely give a good pucker factor without a power feeder. My first real shaper was from Bratton Machinery in Tallahasse and it was a 3HP Taiwanese unit made by Champ Fond. Other than the marginal fence, it was a good shaper that gave me many good years of service until I upgraded. I remember looking at the Powermatic in the Bratton showroom but it was way out of my price range at the time. At the last IWF I touched base with Joas at DIT but haven't ordered any cutters from them yet. Steve

[@TheWoodCraftsman]

I know what you mean. I had a Grizzly G1026 for a few years, than I got my hands on the two Powermatic 27S (Super 27). The G1026 along with a few others are a Taiwanese knock-off of the old Powermatic 26. To this day I wished I had kept it for simple processes. My very first shaper was a Boice Crane, but out grew it. I think you will like DIT, they've been good to me which is why I tell others like yourself about them. Take care! Scott

[@jeffdeluca1153]

Good info Steve thanks again! Quick question, who's power feeder do you use/how do you like it? HP? Thx

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Jeff. The feeder is a Comatic DC40 with smart stand. I like it much better than my previous feeder because it is so easy to change to the vertical feed position and back. It is 1/2 HP which feeds every bit as good as my previous 1 hp feeder. It is also configurable for different voltage and phased power sources. Steve

[@jeffdeluca1153]

ExtremeWoodworker Thank you

[@jeffdeluca1153]

Steve who distributes these feeders in the US do you know? Also which supplier do you get the garniga cutters from? Thanks again!

[@extremewoodworker]

Hi Jeff. Comatic feeders are available from www.shopgearinc.com/ Garniga and has either merged or bought out by Zuani or TCW. The cutters are available through Rangate. Steve

[@jeffdeluca1153]

ExtremeWoodworker thanks again Steve