Sharpening Plane Irons

[@FredFier69]

I've been a woodworker for 40 years, have two full shelves of Fine Woodworking (probably 60 issues), and prefer to make my work by hand, with minimal machine work. I'm not a Luddite - I use machines sensibly, and have a garage shop that is enviable. So I often rough everything by machine, but do the critical work by hand. This is just a truly delightful and brilliant video, and totally based on proper practice and mentality regarding tool steel. Kinda wish there was a mention about steel quality and hardness, but maybe they do that elsewhere. This video is simply excellent... great work! Tom Lie-Nielson is a man of my own heart.

[@Offshoreorganbuilder]

Thanks for this calm, logical expanation, with NO distracting music!

[@IamtheActionman]

This method works very well and is fast and consistent, Thanks for the excellent tips.

[@ronanderson1023]

This is a great video and really shows that you don't have to do crazy work to get these irons sharp. When i bought my sharpening tools, i also bought a Veritas MK II honing jig. The jig itself is really, really well made, but for me, it made the process more complicated, since with that you have issues with skewing the blade if you are not carefull and/or you dont know what you are looking for. For beginners, do yourself a favor and start with the type of honing guide shown in the video, its way simpler and faster. (But to clarify, the jig and all the other tools from Veritas are very, very well made, just in this case the complex guide makes it harder instead of simplifying it, well, for me at least)

[@HighlandWoodworking]

Dear olgoat52, Good question. Yes, a bevel-up plane iron still works fine with a back bevel. The main difference lies in the fact that a chisel registers against the workpiece using the back of the chisel itself, meaning a back bevel on the chisel would cause the chisel to "ride up" as it pares. Since it's the SOLE of the plane that registers the cutter against the workpiece (not the cutter itself), the wood "sees" the cutting edge's bevel angle without caring whether the bevel is up or down.

[@ericfriedman1548]

which protractor are you using please?

[@FredFier69]

Exactly - if you want to "true" your plane, the base and sides of the casting are where you want to put your effort... you can play with blade edge angles all you want. Highland Hardware, please know that you have been a source for me for decades. I think I still have a bunch of your old newsprint catalogues. I've been to the original Atlanta store, which was something like porn or a strip joint for a woodworker like me. Just want to thank you for being true.

[@errcoche]

Well that was pretty clear. I just bought a stone and wasn't sure what to do with it. Also had seen videos talking about secondary bevels and others not. This explains why I need one front and back. Just need to find a thin metal ruler now or its equivalent.

[@Offshoreorganbuilder]

You mention dressing the stone(s) every time you use it, by means of a coarse grit 120 to 220 wet or dry paper, or by using a coarse diamond plate. I presume this means wetting the paper or plate, and then rubbing the stone over it. But is there anything more involved, and how many passes, approximately, would you expect to make to keep your stone flat? Also, how to you take off the corners of the blade to remove 'tram lines' in the wood, when planing? Thanks again.

[@fgleich]

I agree with you. It DOES alter the main angle. There is no need for a bevel on the back. Just concentrate on polishing the back and sharpening the main angle true across the blade width.

[@FredFier69]

you know, that was my first thought... I completely flatten all my plane and chisel blades on 1000 grit sandpaper attached to a 60-pound piece of marble that was used to stabilize electron microscopes back in the '60s. Then I hone them on ceramic @ 1200 grit or higher (6000 grit for some). The revelation to me from this video is that what I do is fine and proper for chisels, since they need that precise flat back. But a plane blade is always at an angle, so it really doesn't matter about the backside of the plane blade, as long a it's 50% honed and flat. The cutting edge is the key, and a way of keeping that cutting edge alive without having to flatten the entire back is just sensible. NOT for chisels, which often rely on a flat back for reference, but definitely yes for plane blades.

[@MWSMorton]

The ruler I use is .020 or 20 thousandths thick. You want something really thin like that - lots of household stuff could work - the ruler is nice because it stays relative put without messing up the stone in any way.

[@olgoat52]

The video says to not use back bevels on chisels as it affects the cutting of the tool. What about planes that use the bevel pointing up? Like a low angle block plane. Is the back bevel ok to use in that situation?

[@MrMiamijohn]

well thank you,it sounds as though you have the knowledge as well. it's a pity that others don't. regards

[@dianemiller7019]

Thank you!!!

[@ViniciusKrause]

Hi ! I'm Brazilian, so , my english is not so good, than I don't understand if the ruler must have some specific thickness. Which is the recommended thickness of the ruler to make the secondary bevel ?

[@dandiy4958]

That back bevel is only .020 rise on the vertical side of a triangle, the hypotenuse side is the length of the stone width used. Calculated, it is only a change in 00.00.00 seconds of a single degree. That can help get a clean keen edge on an old blade or new one. The wood shaving can tell no difference in the approach angle resistance. Great information! Thanks

[@LessLethal]

This video was AMAZINGLY helpful. Seriously, it should be burned onto DVDs and included with every plane sold.

[@1965macondo]

totally agrre with you!!

[@MikeGoodTinT]

Helpful video but I'm going to call "BS" on only 4 to 5 passes on the 1K and 4 passes on the 8K

[@MrMiamijohn]

i stick by every word a said.

[@MrMiamijohn]

thank you for your reply. i have watched and listened again, firstly he says about the angle for sharpening, by putting a back bevel on alters that angle. the only people who would benefit are those who can't sharpen a plane iron correctly. to flatten the back of a plane iron does not take the length of time he says. if its good for you ok, but as i have mentioned before i have been a cabinetmaker for 50yrs and i think i know what i am talking about. sorry but i totally disagree in what he says

[@FredFier69]

I agree with your attitude toward sharpening and flattening (it's part of the passion), but when it comes to planes, it's the plane body that needs to be true - the blade itself can be customized for the type of wood being cut - I've always thought a typical bench plane was way too steep of an angle... even for a "hoaring" tool. I like the mentality of keeping the sole and sides of your planes flat and square, but adjusting that "iron" angle for the wood at hand (it's not iron, it's steel0