Shelly em Smart Energy Monitor - Wiring Guide

[@alistairlambert3275]

Thanke Pete, I bought the Shelley 3EM so the inputs are slightliy different but thanks for the crimping and wiring lesson, worked really well.

[@Builtbypete]

I'm glad it was helpful. Theses Shelly's are great.

[@alistairlambert3275]

@@Builtbypete How does this work when people have solar and batteries? The wire showing the load into the house is going to show minimal electricity. Do they connect to a different wire, and where would you find it?

[@Builtbypete]

I guess it depends on setup. If the batteries and or solar get to the house via an inverter, then you could put the sensor son the output of the inverter. Or if the house has a cross over switch you could put the sensors on the output of the cross over.

[@alistairlambert3275]

The problem with these systems is they are all trying to do the same thing job and compete. I’m getting a heat pump installed so I will use the Shelly to monitor load and hopefully use it with my Ecoflow system to direct some solar power towards it.

[@Builtbypete]

Sounds like a good setup 👍

[@jensschroder8214]

The Shelly 2EM is suitable for split phase at an angle of 180°. Then you need to twist one current clamp around. But the Shelly 2EM is not suitable for three-phase current with an angle of 120°. Then you can use the 2EM to monitor two currents on the same phase. The Shelly 2EM distinguishes consumption and feeding into the grid from electricity.

[@akhan999]

Strange my comment has been deleted. Wanted to know can this be done directly in garage we’re the power comes into the main fuse and red and black wire going to the meter? And also be plugged directly into wall socket?

[@Builtbypete]

Hi. Not sure what happened to your other comment. The placement of the Shelly depends on what you want to measure. If it's the whole house then you need to put it on the positive tail comming out of the meter. Just the positive not both.

[@akhan999]

Also can the Shelley be plugged in directly to socket? I don’t have consumer unit in garage? And yes I want to measure whole house

[@Builtbypete]

@@akhan999 You can power a shelly from a plug socket. I would put a 2amp fuse in the plug.

[@Builtbypete]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/bWinl5KvncahrMk

[@akhan999]

Thank you so much for responding quickly

[@simps100]

Hi, I want something like this to monitor my washer / dryer energy usage to create automations so it wouldn’t being going into a consumer unit - would this setup be OK if the Shelly it’s self was put into a protective box? I like this thought of something like this completely separate and not changing the washers wiring atall

[@Builtbypete]

Hi. You can monitor individual devices, but you would need the clamp to be on the live feed only to get accurate measurements.

[@simps100]

@@Builtbypete thank you - I’m not concerned about it being 100% accurate just really want to know if it’s drawing power or not so I guess it being over the machines power cord should be ok for that purpose?

[@BenCos2018]

@@simps100 never works great to do that tbh they cancel out if you do that and the readings are pretty much useless easier would be to make a box with a socket and a plug where the shelly is mounted inside

[@Builtbypete]

Ben is right. The live and the neutral are 180 degrees out of phase so a clamp over both wouldn't see anything. If you want to only know if the device is on and not how much power it's drawing then you could use a smart plug and have it integrate with a smart home hub if you have one.

[@ITB_News]

Any way to power this via a battery pack using USB into the battery but wired like you have into Shelly EM ?

[@Builtbypete]

Hi. These Shelly units are powered by 120 / 240 V AC. I'm not aware of a way to power it via DC unless via an inverter.

[@ITB_News]

@@Builtbypete ahh that's a pitty, looking to replace my aging Wattson energy monitor...

[@Builtbypete]

Oh right. I seem to recall a raspberry Pi project somewhere for energy monitoring. You could certainly power that from a battery.

[@mdemdemde]

Do you know if it is possible to cur the cable of the clamp to reduce its length or will it make the clamp bad?

[@Builtbypete]

It should be fine, but you could always shorten the lead if needed.

[@mdemdemde]

@@Builtbypete Thanks!

[@Builtbypete]

Your welcome. Maybe test it. You could look at the readings with the wire coiled and then without. I might so some testing on mine as well.

[@akhan999]

How do you know if you need 50A or 120A?

[@Builtbypete]

Have a look at your meter tails. See if they are 25 or 16 mm squared.

[@akhan999]

Hmm no idea how to measure that. Maybe I need an Electrican although since I don’t need to go into consumer unit thought it would be doable myself

[@akhan999]

The diameter seems to be 11mm, and 50A clamp internal diameter is 10. So maybe best to get 120A

[@Builtbypete]

If the tail is a 25mm squared then the diameter of the copper cores is about 5.6mm. so another couple of mm for insulation would get you to about 10 or 11mm. So my guess would be you have 100A 25mm squared meter tails.

[@akhan999]

Thanks I’ll get the 120A appreciate all the help. Excited to get this up and running and in my home assistant dashboard

[@samip537]

What tool set are you using?

[@Builtbypete]

I just bought myself a cheap generic crimping kit off ebay