Shendrones Thicc Cinelifter / INAV Build and Flight / GH5 Blackmagic Pocket Cinema BMPCC FPV Drone

[@AirviewFilm]

You are so far the best when it comes to clear explanation! Thx :)

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks. I try my best to make the videos informative, clear and mildly entertaining.

[@brandoncharleson]

Well done! Pretty impressed with the altitude and position hold. Makes me want to switch from Betaflight to Inav.

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks for the kinds words.They both have their place. INAV is great for 7 inch and larger, BF is great for smaller, but there's a big crossover.

[@brandoncharleson]

@@WhirlyBloke awesome. I have the Luminier QAV 9” coming with the DJI O3. Would you recommend switching to iNav?

[@WhirlyBloke]

@@brandoncharleson There's now harm in giving it a try.

[@samcollins6394]

I'm looking forward to seeing how you adapted Inav to accommodate the eight motors. I've just built my first 7" on Inav and poss hold works a dream. Thanks for the very informative content.

[@WhirlyBloke]

Not so easy, but I'll show it all in detail in the next video.

[@botornvig]

Thanks for a great walk through! Can't wait for part 2 - as I'm also the happy owner of a SE version..

[@WhirlyBloke]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@jongduksim4442]

thanks Whirly 😀

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks for watching.

[@ememeable]

Thankyou

[@DesignTuneOperate]

Good work 👌🏻 There is a 3d print from sergi at RR which means you can put the gps on the side away from the DC power wires, this makes all the nav functions/mag work much better!

[@fpvnme4845]

My friend built one and man you should hear this thing SCREAM when punched out like a 450 Moto X bike he's hit 198kph and done 10km on it

[@WhirlyBloke]

Very dependent on props and if you fit the ducts you can hear it miles away.

[@Pessochniza]

Спасибо!

[@DavidOwensuk]

Great video!

[@WhirlyBloke]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@parkerstroop3908]

TV Standard camera would be A7sii or the a7siii. (For dslr style bodies). For feature films I could see them accepting BMPCC if they are shooting RED but typically a RED Kamodo.

[@ColinZenger]

reealy nice video! I am totally looking forward to also build a Cinelifter in the future and I am looking forward to more content on the topic :-)

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks. More on the way.

[@juanquinonesmusic]

The noise (interference) in your audio is coming from your Camera. I’m sure you have a little cable hooked up to your camera’s mic port. That is where the noise comes from. I assume you have a Rode GO 2. I’d recommend recording into the Go 2’s internal memory and using THAT audio instead of what your camera picks up

[@WhirlyBloke]

Yes, it's annoying isn't it? I only noticed after the video was published. The problem wasn't the audio lead, it was a faulty jack socket on the camera that I've now had fixed. Thanks for the info though.

[@elisklemer4588]

Really nice video!

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks for watching.

[@sunsetpark_fpv]

I don't understand how you connect both ESC's to a single FC.....awesome build though! Oh i see now - you individually soldered them to the FC rather than use the wiring harness - cheers.

[@WhirlyBloke]

Check out my schematic diagram for the exact details.

[@contouraerials]

I noticed your wiring diagram only had the second 4 motors on the bottom esc wired up and you said you used the cur wire from the top esc and for power? So you don't need anything other than the 4 motor wires from esc two to fc? First time i've seen this info?!

[@WhirlyBloke]

Yep, you only need to use one of the current sense outputs from either of the ESCs.

[@contouraerials]

@@WhirlyBloke many thanks!

[@contouraerials]

@@WhirlyBloke Looking back now, you didnt need to run vbat and gnd for the second esc because you bridged the two escs at the connectors, correct? If you don't do that, and splice your battery wires together for an xt90, you'd still need to run vbat and gnd for second esc, correct?

[@jwtfpv8957]

Great stuff!

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks for watching.

[@jackevans2386]

Nice job ! Very impressive.

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks.

[@davidbarukcic8364]

Nicee 😍 do you have example of the gh5 footage? 😊

[@WhirlyBloke]

I used the GH5 for testing only. It's not really suitable because it has in body stabilization that messes things up. I've switch to using the BMPCC4K or the Lumix BGH-1.

[@davidbarukcic8364]

@@WhirlyBloke oh I thought so 😊 so no ibis for fpv drones 😊 thanks 💪🏻😊

[@BrunoParnell]

which battery are you using for Thicc? Thanks for the video!

[@WhirlyBloke]

2x GNB 1250 mAh 6S.

[@mikehunt2667]

Little disclaimer Gh5 is not a camera used for a cinelifter . Check out other channels to find out why .😉

[@WhirlyBloke]

I totally agree, but it was the only suitable camera I had at the time. It works but stabilisation is the issue. Upgraded to BMPCC in my followup video kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6i8gnp8ab-ggbM

[@godsun358]

Ni e work brother new subscriber here so keep em coming

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks

[@jackbisson9226]

Is INav better for cinema FPV drones than BetaFlight? This is great that you have wired up to have separate power sources.

[@WhirlyBloke]

iNav is better suited for cinelifters like this. You can just parallel up the batteries, but I have an upcoming video that details a way to connect them with some redundancy. Thanks for watching.

[@samriley3229]

Thanks very much for this really informative video! I'm currently building a Thicc myself and this is super useful. I have one question - did you parallel wire the Lipos? Thanks again for your time!

[@WhirlyBloke]

Glad it was helpful! I have an upcoming video that details ways to connect multiple batteries with proper redundancy. But you can just parallel them if you want.

[@ched999uk]

Nice to see a big multirotor build. Looks great, is there any way to add a bit more redundancy as if the battery powering fc fails it's coming down!

[@WhirlyBloke]

All power wiring is doubled up.

[@ched999uk]

@@WhirlyBloke So FC, rx/vtx/DJI all simultaneously powered by both 6S batts? Doesn't that not mean that the batteries are trying to equalise their voltages?

[@DesignTuneOperate]

Full cinelifter power redundancy testing video on my channel!

[@WhirlyBloke]

@@DesignTuneOperate Thanks.

[@pilotlawaran]

how to setting multishot esc?

[@WhirlyBloke]

Setting up multishot ESC in INAV involves a few steps. Here's a general guide to help you get started: 1. **Hardware Connection**: Ensure your flight controller is properly connected to your ESCs and the motors. Make sure you're using ESCs that support multishot communication protocol. 2. **Access Configuration**: Open the INAV configurator software on your computer and connect to your flight controller. 3. **Motor Protocol**: In the "Configuration" tab, under "ESC/Motor Features," select "Multishot" as the protocol for your ESCs. 4. **Motor Test**: Go to the "Motor Test" tab and test each motor to ensure they're spinning in the correct direction and responding appropriately to throttle changes. 5. **ESC Calibration**: Perform ESC calibration through INAV to ensure accurate throttle response. This step might involve following the prompts on the screen or using the motor test tab. 6. **Save and Reboot**: Once you've made the necessary changes, save your configuration and reboot the flight controller. 7. **Throttle Range**: Check and adjust the throttle range to make sure it corresponds correctly to your transmitter inputs. This can be done in the "Servo Output" tab. 8. **PID Tuning**: It's a good practice to recheck and fine-tune your PID settings since changing communication protocols can affect flight performance. 9. **Test Flight**: Perform a test flight in a safe environment to ensure that your multishot ESCs are working as expected. Monitor the behavior of your quadcopter and make any necessary adjustments. Remember that the specific steps might vary slightly depending on the version of INAV you're using and the hardware you have. Always consult the official INAV documentation or community forums for the most up-to-date and accurate instructions.

[@paulm1606]

Hi Buddy, just wondering if you can take a look at my question on your rekon3 vid as a new subscriber ! Lol thanks

[@jhughes2286]

Get the Gemfan Cinelifter props wayy better than the old ass Dal 7056 high pitched terrible props

[@WhirlyBloke]

Waiting for some to arrive.

[@icp-trek]

From my experience. Those props are good but not very durable. One unnoticed bend caised my friends quad to go bananas. The prop is to bendable. But if you handle them like eggs, all good.

[@WhirlyBloke]

The HQs are much better, but I'm on 8 inch props now. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6i8gnp8ab-ggbM