Pattern Drafting: Is it Busty/Plus Size Friendly? (Part 2 / Reviews)

[@NohaBadrEssawy]

Wow, I never thought of trying the bunka method, simply because of the notion that this is done for avg. Japanese girls. Will deff. try it. Thx a loooot❤

[@ShilynSews]

The chart given is definitely for smaller figures, but luckily they provide the formulas!

[@adebambomoses-olomu8497]

Thank you so much for this information I have tried all of these and thought I was the problem but I see I’m not the only one. I will try the bunka method again after this

[@ShilynSews]

@adebambomoses-olomu8497 your body is never the problem! Hopefully that method works out for you

[@ShilynSews]

To give HJA's method a better chance, I think starting with standard measurements, then making changes (length, shoulder, FBA, etc) would be the only way to go as an "outlier". However, it would still not hit the plus-size friendly-requirements (especially if we're sticking to standards-only in order to make changes), so it would still rate fairly low overall... Thanks to Lindsie (sewbusty blogger!) for pointing out that the shoulder and upper bust issue in the Bunka method is still a busty issue...which means I should've rated the Bunka method 3 or 4 out of 5 for "busty-friendly". This doesn't change it's ranking overall in comparison to the other methods, but it is something that needs to be considered!

[@ArtofFashion]

Oof the Armstrong method has given me these issues when I attempted custom measurements too! TT_TT I can only use the Armstrong blocks if the person is the exact same size as their offered measurements, or if I make several fit/sizing adjustments. Seriously, thank you so much for these drafting reviews!! I'm going to give the Bunka method and maybe even the Aldrich method a try!

[@ShilynSews]

For more unique shapes, do you drape instead?

[@lindsierank2019]

Thanks for this! I can't wait to see how the Bunka sloper looks after you've made your shoulder adjustments. The shoulder and upper bust looks pretty big on you compared to the Aldrich, so I'm curious to see how you handle that! Thanks for your excellent content.

[@ShilynSews]

*I haven't done it yet, BUT I'm thinking of doing a small (.5" or so) shoulder dart in the front (mid-shoulder, since I hate that Aldrich's has it at the neck haha!), while also taking away from the shoulder seam since it's long. If it works out on the muslin, I'll rotate it into the bust dart!

[@searose6192]

I was wondering if you know where I can learn to adjust classic patterns to fit a VERY busty figure. I am typically a medium throughout my figure, but my bust is a 32GG and I have an impossible time finding clothes that fit. I am a step or two above a beginner at sewing and have made plenty of kids clothes, but altering patterns blind is out of my depth.

[@ShilynSews]

I'm a similar size so get the struggle. You would need to do what's called a full bust adjustment on most regularly drafted patterns. I recommend sewbusty.com for tutorials on that and also look through the busty friendly pattern database!

[@compact_star]

I was wondering where you found the bunka instructions that you followed. this series is so interesting. I'm very tempted to try all of these myself

[@ShilynSews]

I found it on this blog! If you click the picture, you'll get the larger version :) buildinggarments.wordpress.com/2013/09/06/week-1-bunka-bodice-sloper/

[@compact_star]

@@ShilynSews thank you!!

[@gwensmale7675]

Hi dear show us how you draft your pattern and how you do the adjustment for the narrow shoulder. I struggle with gaping neckline and armhole gaping. Our measurements are more or less the same

[@ShilynSews]

To be honest, I do the "quick and dirty" method and remove the excess from the armscye (remove the excess at from the shoulder point then tapering it to nothing in the mid-armscye). There's also a slash and spread method- UntitledThoughts has a good blog on this method.

[@tell-it-like-it-is8305]

Over-shoulder boulder-holder 😂😂😂