Pattern Drafting: Is it Busty/Plus Size Friendly? (Part 1 / Review)

[@obara7366]

When I did a beginner's sewing course during the pandemic, we were taught the Natalie Bray method. I personally loved it, as a fan of math and technical drawing. Didn't know it was hard in comparison to others.

[@ShilynSews]

I wonder if it's just harder because I only had the written instructions, which I had to keep reading over to understand. A teacher would definitely have been helpful!

[@ValleyVal888]

I’m so glad I found your video- I cannot tell you how helpful I found it! I also can’t wait to check out the podcast you mentioned! Thank you for your video- now I’m off to watch part 2 and your other vids.

[@obara7366]

Thank you so much for this video! Idk why it's so hard to find people comparing the drafting methods. Thank you for being my guardian angel!

[@ShilynSews]

You're welcome!

[@karltonalexander7186]

Shilyn, I love your videos! I have not yet found a drafting that's is busty friendly, I will definitely keep following you. You go girl!!

[@Sandra-xc7ct]

Thank you Shilyn for this video! I want to draft my own patterns and found this video very helpful.

[@ShilynSews]

I'm glad it helps! May your draft(s) come out fitting well!

[@ArtofFashion]

This was such an informative video Shilyn thank you for sharing!! I've either created a bodice block from draping or used the method offered by Helen Joseph-Armstrong in her book "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" (with some modifications as needed). After seeing your video I want to give the Aldrich method a try!

[@ShilynSews]

Ooh, I've tried that once before (a few years back), but swore off drafting from scratch because of it. I may try it again, now that I'm more experienced!

[@ShilynSews]

How to draft the Aldrich method (plus my thoughts on the dart width): kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKDKk6Wwn66crrs Two more methods reviewed here!: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5u8pIF6f7l5Zrc

[@teruldacz]

In Adrichs youre actually should move the shoulder dart to the side seam before making a mockup. It's stated in the book. Noone in their videos does it but it is said in the book. It eliminates dealing with a huge shoulder dart

[@ShilynSews]

Hello! I checked my Aldrichs book, and the only instructions for closing the shoulder dart is for the "easy fitting block" to create a waist dart. I checked the sleeveless blocks' instructions, and none of the instructions involve closing the shoulder dart. Perhaps you're referring to the adaptions portion of the book? Please let me know what page I can reference.

[@Grace_x68]

Thank you so much for sharing. Can you please, please show us a full tutorial on the Aldridge method?

[@ShilynSews]

I can try!

[@ShilynSews]

Here ya go!: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKDKk6Wwn66crrs

[@bleeb90]

Hi, I came across your video, because right now I am coming to the horrified conclusion I might have to Frankenstein my own method of pattern drafting, as I am a bean stalk with an H cup, and two methods have let me down already. I was first using the Dutch method of Kitty Witmond who works with given sizes who told me my armhole should be at 19.85cm, but I had no way of telling why I had to divide my bust width through 10cm, and add 10.5 cm to that. It landed me on an armhole height of 19.85cm. The depth of the curve of the armhole is a given number. Her method seems awesome at first glance because it seems you can actually draw the back bodice on back broadness, except that is done with a weird sum as well. Credit where it's due, she has a different method for busts over 100cm, but that is in no way corresponding with someone's waist or back broadness. So I, the absolute beanstalk should not use this method, while someone who is a bit more proportionally even, if a bit fuller all round should use this method. It just confused me. What's awesome about her method is that she's here on youtube (in Dutch with the Fifty Ways Studio) with a lot of basic lessons on certain sewing techniques. I definitely have her in my favourites list to reference if I am not sure on a certain sewing technique. Sadly automatic translation to English leaves a lot to be desired for the non-Dutch speakers. Then I bought a method that was translated into several languages, by Teresa Gilewska. Her method, told me my armhole was supposed to be calculated by dividing my back length by 2 cm, and adding 1cm to that. I should have a armhole height of 22 cm according to this method. Yet her method doesn't say if you have to measure from up to down, or from down to up. No "Draw from Point A-B" or anything like that. The curve for the armhole was a calculation out of the sum of the armhole length (which was to be calculated to your own size) and your depth of your neck opening (also calculated to your own size). I had to read the paragraph thrice. And then I looked at the pattern another three times to realise I am drawing the entire thing out of the bust line, which means my center back piece is exactly as broad as the center front piece, which means I'd get a side seam that's dragged back. Scan really chuck this method. The only plus on this method is that it has a dedicated page on how to begin to draw a basic block for jersey fabric, so that's nice. So then I went and opened my printed PDF of "Pattern Design 1950s Original instructions" I bought on Etsy (MakeVintagePatterns was the seller), It's a method I bought for how it's plethora on ways of changing standard blocks to different cuts. It's a method that uses inches, so I wasn't planning on using it for a basic block, but hey, I've got quilting rulers, so that shouldn't be a disaster, should it? I guess I'm going to try that this afternoon. But what is interesting about their basic blocks, is that they say their armhole point is simply decided by measuring from your waist line up into your arm pit. Which sounds really intuitive. It's actually one of the measures you have to take, they call it 'side seam length'. It suggests I should put my arm hole on 22cm out of the waist line, so that is a question answered I guess. Except that according to this method, on the front piece, it's side seam length + an inch, which would be 24,5cm. So yeah, once again formula's of adding x amount to this pattern draft, but the third time is the charm, right?

[@ShilynSews]

@moonslave90 oh my goodness! If you're on Facebook, I like the Sew Busty Community group. They may have additional tips for you! I am a bit more proportional, so I have been lucky with most of my testing, but hopefully they can help.

[@ShilynSews]

@@bleeb90 I ended up preferring the Aldrich method and Bunka method (though bunka is almost all math). If the one you're working on doesn't pan out, give bunka a try as it's based on smaller sizes but allows for different bust sizes

[@Aniqglamatelier]

You can try pattermaking by dennic chunman Lo.

[@ShilynSews]

I'll take a look! Thanks :)