Shoemaking Lesson 9 - Lasting the Upper

In this video I'll show you how to last the uppers. This is a pretty crucial step which needs to be done right otherwise your shoes will not fit properly.
This series will run through all of the steps involved in making a pair of derbies. It is aimed at people wanting to make a start in shoemaking.
Disclaimer: I am not a shoemaker, I am a leather craftsman. Have a look at my regular work at www.andrewreeson.com. See me on IG and FB @andrewreesonmaker.
I am new to videomaking and have made many mistakes in the production of these videos. I hope you can look past them.

[@zefdin101]

Nice job! I make shoes and a nice trick I’ve picked up along the way, you can dust the last with baby / talc powder before and the upper slides off more easily. Also, I like to spritz the upper with some very warm water before lasting and the leather stretches better and then I let it dry on the last and it holds the shape really well. Just wanted to throw the ideas into the ring.. not my own really, but we all learn from one another. Great and beautiful work Andrew!!

[@AndrewReesonLeather]

Great tips, thanks mate

[@hippycobbler4092]

talc is a nice trick but can contaminate your glue, a plastic bag will do the same thing :) warm water yes OMG YES you need a but ton of steam........ that top line looks off its far too hi and its loos, have you tried them on ? a hi top line can cut in to the ankle . and yes you can last in your lap but its way harder than bullting a pin to the fore, you have very bad leverage your way :)

[@zefdin101]

@@hippycobbler4092 - I have learned the hard way on high top line. I try and keep the instep side about 60-65mm from the instep edge and the outside about 60mm to clear the ankle bone nicely. Back heel I keep right around 75mm on all my shoes with asymmetrical slope. Great stuff, thanks!

[@hippycobbler4092]

@@zefdin101 Fun stuff the old bag top simple to exsplane, suprizingley tricky and sensitive to achieve well. 65 v 60mm yer that sound about right ( what size is that ??? ;) my styel is very....... umm....... free hand i guess...... im uploading a new batch of bad videos of me whispering uncoherently trying to explain what i do & y, it will be up soon ish...... :)

[@BrianJoyce-dk2sg]

thats good advice

[@cameronstujustnarthhtvdjmi273]

great work on the video series, I appreciate the step by step machine or hand options that you provided. As well as taken the time to explain and show the trouble shoot along the way. You could have just edited but your a gentle man, and I hope you dance the night away with those slick, ball room, beauty's.

[@AndrewReesonLeather]

Thanks man, I really appreciate the encouraging words

[@igneousmoon]

Glad I decided to watch the full series before I did any cutting :p Also thank you for doing this series. I have incredibly wide feet and struggle to buy shoes. I'm going to be doing a shoe madmen course soon and will have to get custom lasts made before hand. This is helping me know what I'm in for, I'm just so excited to finally be able to have shoes. I have to size up, buy extra wide plus authodic friendly shoes and take out all inner soles at the moment to fit anything. Only 1 brand in aus fits me, but soooooon I will have all the shoes!!!

[@AndrewReesonLeather]

Have you tried men's shoes? The tend to be made two sizes wider than women's. If you find they fit, then you might get away with standard men's last instead of custom made. You won't find anything with a heel on it though

[@igneousmoon]

@@AndrewReesonLeather I fit some mens wide shoes but I would like to be able to wear a heel every so often. The cobbler organising my lasts can get them at a reasonable price so I figure it's worth it

[@SimchaYaffa]

thank you for another master class

[@AaronCreativeCo]

I am blown away that there are not more views on these. I think I'm going to look at getting myself a pair of lasts and give this a go.

[@blackwoodpecker_riga]

Best shoemaking lessons so far! Big thanks!

[@mahmodbadiani1434]

👍

[@frankiejankis]

These videos are awesome! Thanks for posting all this great information!

[@LukeCreates.]

Hello great videos very very informative I’m learning from your videos but applying you teaching to a sneaker build thank you for your knowledge of Shoemaking and I understand the front tor area has to be flush so the waves bumps wrinkles aren’t visible at the final assembly

[@steveriley1952]

Thanks Andrew .. very clear and concise ! Looking fwd to the next lessson 🙂

[@mgfittipaldi]

Great lesson! Can't wait for nr 10!

[@jogindersharma8616]

Please i need your help What type o last should I use for making a sneaker like nike jordan 1.... please help me.....

[@AndrewReesonLeather]

I'm not sure where you are, but I know District Leather in the USA has them. districtleathersupply.com/products/air-jordan-1-shoe-lasts

[@jogindersharma8616]

@@AndrewReesonLeather can I use normal sneaker last.....

[@Bad.Skunky]

8:35 Was that a pressure release valve releasing pressure?

[@AndrewReesonLeather]

Nope, it was my voice. I had to check the original footage to be sure. I've now learned that "Hmmm" sped up 300% sounds like a certain bodily function.

[@budthechud3408]

Wouldn't a low air pressure brad nailer be easier? And what oz weight of leather is ideal for constructing the upper? Thanks.

[@AndrewReesonLeather]

I can't say I've heard of anyone using a nail gun for lasting. You could give it a go, but you would have to be pretty careful. I recommend 1.2-2.0mm, depending on the style of shoe. These shoes were unlined and chunky so I used some 2.0-2.5mm leather

[@danielstyffe]

Hey Andrew, if you also made the allowance abit short, can you dampen the upper side of the last to make it slightly stretchy? Or will it distort the pattern to much? Think I saw a shoemaker do it once but not sure.. and pretty sure he had inner- and outer upper🤔

[@AndrewReesonLeather]

Possibly, but this leather is partly chrome tanned and won't respond to being wet. I know a shoemaker who wets his leather stiffeners before lasting them, but that is to help them stay in shape when they're dry.

[@jogindersharma8616]

Keep making videos...

[@browsebywire4096]

I used a staple gun instead of nails to do the lasting. Probably jenky but it seems to have worked for my purposes. lol

[@maxeyconnor7898]

Another great vid! Quick, novice, question: When you're hammering the nails whilst lasting, are you placing them so they go through the insole and into the last? Or just into the insole? Thanks!

[@AndrewReesonLeather]

Just deep enough into the last to hold themselves in place. They're probably only a few millimetres into the last

[@samuelishaya4397]

Thank you ! I like it!

[@housekandsman8519]

How you shape the Inner sole..its not flat ..

[@adeleketosin2480]

It's a credible work, love it, but please sir how can I get the sewing machine, I'm in Nigeria I'm a shoe maker but no machine

[@AndrewReesonLeather]

You don't need a machine. Start with hand sewing and build up from there

[@adityaagarwal3530]

Sir, it would be great if you could list down all tools and material that will be required to this pair of shoe?

[@AndrewReesonLeather]

I might do a video at the end of this series detailing everything required. I should have done it at the start, but I didn't think of it

[@NINJAROSE347]

BEAUTIFUL

[@giftmusa6543]

08:33 shoe maker fat🥴,this is hard job