Finishing with Tru Oil

[@devinthomas4866]

World class refinish, Thank you for the great tips and excellent video

[@MrGeoffois]

I learned oil colors mix well with true oil also. Another guy used some other guitar stain to hit the wood. He did 2 different natural colors and it was awesome. Yours is great also.

[@shootingatdawn]

Great tip! Thank you :)

[@BoggWeasel]

Magnificent job, looks great. nice vid series, TY. makes me want to redo the stock on mine.

[@mrgrivers1]

Very nice job my friend. I was a bit worried when you bleached the stock but it seems to have turned out alright. Wish I could have gotten a look-see before you took out the dents. I'm working on a stock that was broken in two and has dents all over it. If I can get it even close to what you have done then I'll be happy. Thanks for the tips.

[@ypres1917]

Really nice job! I've refinished a couple of Russian SKS stocks with Tru Oil and the result is amazing. Between coats of Tru Oil I used 0000 steel wool rather than sandpaper as I felt it would achieve a more uniform result, but your use of wet/dry sandpaper worked very well indeed.

[@writerdeman]

Late in the game, (video done 6 years ago), but would like more info such as, reasons for cutting the Tru-Oil, how this affects drying time, how LONG to dry between each type and succession of coats, etc. Yours looks great, I just want to know how to reproduce that look without problems.

[@charlie1826]

Beautiful work!!!

[@6lr6ak6]

Hi, great finnish you did, l have just bought a new HW-95 and l want to do the same, l always thought though isn't Danish oil the one to use on Beech?

[@shootingatdawn]

You can do but I wanted to try this.

[@steveguest8028]

Looks awesome 👍

[@5153flash]

Im in process of this now and I have some very dark rough areas on my stock. Where the grain changes direction,,its looks terrible at coat number 2 Im going let it completely dry and sand it,,then do more coats,,but it looks bad now. Might be because my stock was made in the 1940s and might not be the best wood for the job. In the flat areas it looks great.

[@robertgalbraith4212]

Sir I fiished my FX Streamline Walnut the way you did on this video, and wow. You can see it now. Rich G USA

[@james1795]

Very good. Useful information.Thank you for sharing.

[@shootingatdawn]

+Lead Poyzinun glad it's of use :)

[@nomanmcshmoo8640]

Incredible work!!!!!

[@lewisboyd7977]

After you wet sand with the tru oil, do you wipe it down before letting it dry?

[@mainenorthwoodshunter3265]

Looks great. Any suggestions on how to keep it more of a satin finish and not quite so glossy?

[@21EpicFail]

Awesome tips and advice man! I swear this is like some ASMR type stuff haha, God Bless

[@fatefinger]

So two coats of diluted true oil, then a third coat undiluted. After that a 4th coat by hand, a 5th coat applied using wet 400 grit sandpaper, a 6th coat, then 0000 steel wool and then a 7th coat and possibly 8th?

[@shootingatdawn]

+fatefinger - To be honest, if you use the technique that Ishow where you wrap up sometissue or similar in a lint free cloth and then apply it by pressing hard so the coat is really thin, you caan apply as meany coats as you want and just go over them with 000 wire wool to buff them/ flat them as and when you see fit. You can build up a fantastic finish.

[@fatefinger]

shootingatdawn So there is no specific method? Some people say you should use wet dry paper of a really fine grain on the first two coats. But it sounds you don’t have to use what dry paper or steel wool after every single coat if nothing seems wrong.

[@TheJohnnyCombat]

Great video, thank you. I wonder would the beech stock on my TX200 Mk3 look as amazing with the same treatment or does it depend on the wood?

[@englanddartsreviews3348]

This is a beech stock but yes it also depends on the piece of wood you have. As the beech tends to have very little colour, I went for the deep red / mahogany stain to try and make it look nice. Worth experimenting with a couple of woodstain colours etc to see how your piece looks :)

[@Arch3an]

+England Darts Reviews The stock is made out of Beech wood?

[@mariorojas984]

tru oil español

[@TheJohnnyCombat]

Yes, it's made from beech wood.

[@BonyFingers1969]

She was a big Beech.....

[@TheEnufzed]

Hi mate just wondering how long you left the bleach on for? Thanks

[@shootingatdawn]

It was actually trial and error. I started off leaving it for around an hour then washing it off - but later I would leave it for longer periods. I was really quite shocked at who well it was working and I wanted to give it time to clean out the checkering thoroughly . Just remember to wash it off well afterwards and then let it dry :D

[@Fig5000]

Can you stain the wood after one thin coat of tru-oil, and then continue with tru-oil? Or can you add stain to tru-oil the way you've thinned it here? Thanks

[@seand3103]

Nice work!

[@brianlee6849]

Very nice 👍! I'm thinking about doing the same thing on a classic M1 garand. If it was Walnut would you do anything different? Who makes the red mahogany stain ? I really like this color. Not sure if I will be able to get a old M1 garand stock to clean up this nice I will just have to see what I get? Ordering from the CMP civilian marksmanship program. Where are you from? Thanks for sharing nice job 👍

[@shootingatdawn]

Newark,UK mate

[@brianlee6849]

@@shootingatdawn Cool. I live in Eastern Maryland Ocean City. Thanks

[@yardcontrol]

good job, wish you injoyment with the rifle bro.

[@shootingatdawn]

+yardcontrol thank you sir :)

[@marcegrecco53]

Looks great

[@baklash6079]

I’m confused. He says “thinned out tru oil.” Since I can’t see the bottles I’m not clear about this. Did he thin down walnut stain or did he just use the oil and nothing else throughout the process? I want a similar reddish color, but I have walnut wood and worry that using walnut stain would result in a very dark brown color.

[@shootingatdawn]

Thinned out tru oil was just tru oil mixed with a little white spirit. I used it as a deep grain sealer that's all.

[@baklash6079]

@@shootingatdawn many thanks and much appreciated.

[@kikearturo1]

Congratulations Lou Armstrong, good videos, pretty cool. Can you sing What a wonderful world? ho ho ho I would like to know why did you use white spirit with tru oil? Others guys do use just tru oil.

[@shootingatdawn]

+kikearturo I thinned it down with white spirit in the first instance to provide a sealing coat that would soak deeper into the grain.

[@JohnBarrow1961]

Awesome job. What did you use for the final buffing?

[@shootingatdawn]

+John B the stock you see in the video is not buffed yet. I have since used a lint free cloth and a little cutting compound. Nice finish :)

[@briandring8331]

nice vid, just stripped tx200 ready recoat, but also have hw97 blue - black laminated what would you recommend for finish.

[@shootingatdawn]

+brian dring for the laminate I personally would use a harder polyurethane based or blended finish such as Tru oil etc. For the natural wood I would be tempted by oil based.

[@ambientfish1369]

Could tru oil be applied with an air brush?

[@СергейЧирчик]

Very Very good!!! Thank you!

[@jakegtalchemy8778]

Hi is this the same stock you bleechef?

[@shootingatdawn]

Yes

[@GorillasGuns]

what grade of the wire wool do you use a 0000 ?

[@shootingatdawn]

Yes. As fine as you can get.

[@yeldog11]

Great video, Thanks

[@evoltd]

good job

[@shootingatdawn]

Thank you! :)

[@joekelly9369]

Hw80 is it

[@fivestardsm23]

just out of curiosity, what rifle is the stock for?

[@shootingatdawn]

+Stephen Johnson an HW80

[@donnizinski5000]

Looks great but you are a little hard to understand.

[@joekelly9369]

So tru oil gives that orrible dank colour ... noooooo , iv got a lovely light american walnut stock .. its pretty new .i think il pass on that stuff, and go straight for the worktop oil . Its natural waterproof and layers nicely .. im not into the yellowy aftercolour from linseed oil either ..

[@andyp9678]

not to bad, but a lot of hard work that dosent seem neccasary.

[@johanzh2550]

True oil is really shit