Shop made Dominos

[@richthomas5013]

So many gold nuggets of information! Thanks again. You’re a gem Ramon.

[@ramonartful]

Thank you! I appreciate the good words and feedback

[@peterquinn350]

Come here for the tips…stay for the amazing shots of the furniture that you create. Thanks for another incredibly helpful video!

[@ramonartful]

That’s fantastic to hear! Thanks for watching…I appreciate that!

[@arubanjames]

I’m not sure why you tube is just now recommending your videos, but I found your channel now, and I love it! Awesome ideas? I got like 10 from this video!

[@ramonartful]

That’s so good to hear! Thank you 🙏🏼

[@andrewbrown8148]

This is a great technique~! I've not yet seen pieces made with exposed Dominos...very cool. Love the use of various hardwoods, as well as the Baltic Birch Ply. Definitely something I'm going to have to try~! Bro, love the things I learn from your videos~!! 👍👍

[@ramonartful]

Hey Andrew…good to hear! Thanks a ton for watching

[@SantiagogranadosR]

Really instructive..!!! Thanks!!!

[@ramonartful]

Great to hear…thanks!

[@patrickbarber5300]

Great ideas, thanks much for sharing.

[@ramonartful]

Thanks for checking it out!

[@jparson3309]

Glad KZbin suggested your channel I’m very impressed great video

[@ramonartful]

That’s good to hear…Thanks for the feedback!

[@whitexeno]

This was awesome! Thanks for sharing

[@ramonartful]

Thank you tons for checking it out!

[@whitexeno]

@@ramonartful really glad you made a yt channel, I've been following you on ig for a long time and the stuff you make especially the marquetry is outstanding.

[@ramonartful]

Thank you. Yeah...KZbin is so much work! But I’m glad to be here and I have a ton more coming up every Sunday morning!

[@2255buck]

Excellent video

[@ramonartful]

Thank you for watching!

[@robertomedina1760]

Hey thanks for sharing

[@ramonartful]

Hey, thanks for watching 😬👊🏼

[@jbjbuild]

Another great video! Keep them coming, I learn a lot from each one! Very inspirational.

[@ramonartful]

Great to hear... thanks.

[@jason-hh6lu]

That was cool. 👍🏻

[@ramonartful]

Thanks!

[@devinscotttaylor]

cool stuff. and the speeded up cartoon voice superb. little by little have watched many of your videos...all useful tips...ye old podcast was fun too listen too as well!!!

[@ramonartful]

Great to hear! Thanks for the feedback

[@pmelchman]

great video Ramon. It's always nice to see how other craftsman perform task such as this...it might seem straight forward BUT you still can pick up a few tips.

[@ramonartful]

Thank you ...I appreciate the feedback!

[@kiwdwks]

Awesome video...thanks again!

[@ramonartful]

Cool to hear! Thanks for watching and I appreciate the feedback

[@dsdragoon]

Thank you for this great video and mentioning the hydraulic effect. Even with Festool Dominos I've split wood because of the hydraulic effect. Wood glue makes the domino swell and hard insert or pull out and worsens the hydraulic effect. On big glue ups I use epoxy adhesives because I can better control the working time to ensure enough time to assemble and clamp. Epoxy adhesives do not swell the dominos but act as a lubricant.

[@ramonartful]

Yes...it's true. I too, use epoxy on complicated glue ups that require more time. If I'm in a hurry, I recently found a 30 minute epoxy that works well. Not too fast and I don't have to wait overnight. Thanks for the input and thanks for watching! Heres a link if you're interested. Bob Smith Industries 30 minute epoxy amzn.to/3gFi7wk

[@danahorton9841]

You my friend are pushing me closer and closer to pick one of these bad boy up. And, I can't wait. Thanks for the guidance cause Festools pricing is crazy. Cheers.

[@ramonartful]

Ha ha... yeah they are a bit pricey but such a versatile machine. You can sometimes find em used if someone wants to get a larger one or a smaller one...but not very often. I have the larger machine with an adapter that my fad and I made. So I can use all the bit sizes. I had the chance to buy a used smaller one...I should have. I need it to test my domino Docks!

[@theofarmmanager267]

I’ve just watched your video on using the panto router to produce larger tenons and then watched this one. There is a YT channel called Manor Wood amd from there, I took his idea of what he calls mega-tenons. The sizes of these are infinitely variable as his method is to make overlapping mortises with either domino machine until you get the size you want - it can easily be a 75mm x 50mm mortise if you want. He then machines solid material into the size of tenons you need. I use this method for doors etc. despite having a very nice mortise because my shoulders and back complain mightily about using that lever for more than a couple of times. One key advantage is centering the mortise and tenon because you reference both sides of each piece (I.e. if you use a 10mm domino bit, then you might end up with an 18mm mortise perfectly centered. If you watch his videos, you will see that the Manor Wood guy also routs some shallow grooves down the length to allow the glue to have a place on the sides.

[@ramonartful]

Sounds interesting…I’ll check it out! Much thanks.

[@matthewwysocki5019]

Great job! Thanks for sharing!

[@ramonartful]

Great to hear! Thanks for watching!

[@Sam-xo5ym]

I am seriously impressed by this jointer/planer. I am a beginner, and didn't know things like this existed. This would be perfect for a small shop!

[@ramonartful]

Thanks Sam...I don’t remember if I mention it in the video but the raise/lower mechanism with the chain & sprockets...I added. I don’t have time to use a hand crank 😆 Seriously, it’s a great machine for smaller shops. And changing over from planer to jointer takes less than a minute. Easily. Without a drill. 😬

[@michael.schuler]

Fantastic details. Thank you.

[@ramonartful]

Thanks brotha 👊🏼

[@Suntreecarpentry]

Genius!!

[@ramonartful]

Quick n easy! And inexpensive! Thanks for watching the vid

[@Wood_Slice]

Great video just need to use up my assortment set before I tackle this. I would also need a planer/jointer as well.

[@ramonartful]

Thanks! If you’re lumber is straight, one could skip the jointer/planer...it’s just easier to sneak up on the exact measurements with those machines.

[@Richard-yr5zj]

Great video. Thanks for sharing.

[@ramonartful]

Thanks Richard. I appreciate you checking it out!

[@brenon4766]

Great video

[@ramonartful]

Thank you!

[@maarteneswart]

Your good and have a nice sense of humor 😂

[@ramonartful]

Ha! 😬 Thank you for watching the videos!

[@realpdm]

Thanks for sharing. Very nice looking result! Loved seeing all the parts of your technique that some other videos have glossed over. For my DF500 I've purchased the domino multi pack and been ok with that. For the DF700 I was taken aback by the cost of the variety pack and I'm pretty sure I will be either making or purchasing those on an as needed basis.

[@ramonartful]

Thanks for checking out the video Philip! I sometimes hear people talk about how the factory dominos are engineered, compressed, glue grooves, etc. I get it...But if you look at traditional joinery with mortise and tenon (time tested since antiquity) those are extremely strong when done correctly. So yeah...I like making my own and purchasing the longer ones in the larger sizes. I may have gone off on a tangent here...😆 🙏🏼

[@saltygx]

Awesome video Ramon, thank you for sharing your knowledge and ideas, much appreciated. How do you make the drawers with the dominos? Do you assemble the the drawers and then make the mortise? or do you mortise the parts separately and then assemble? Perhaps that could be a video!

[@ramonartful]

Thanks a lot! I do assemble the drawer boxes first. They have an 1/8” rebate, I add glue and use 23 gauge pins (strategically placed) to hold em and usually add bar clamps. Once dry, I can plunge through both adjacent pieces and add dominos. You’re right…this would make a good video. My drawer box construction is unique, but after 30 years, I absolutely know that they are strong! I have a job coming up around next spring with lots of drawers, I’ll make a complete video then. Much thanks.

[@saltygx]

@@ramonartful Thank you for your reply and now I definitely looking forward to that video!

[@concentrichomesolutions]

I love your videos!

[@ramonartful]

So good to hear...tons more coming ! Thanks

[@RobyWanKenobi]

I have alot of 12mm baltic birch scrap, very little hard wood scrap at the moment and want make some larger dominos in 6, 8 and 10 mm. Any major problems with milling the 12 mm down for these? They will not be exposed so some chip out of the birch can be discarded if it's too much. Thank you so much for all that you post. I started doing handyman with the goal of cabinetry and furniture in time after being laid off Dec 2019. I am 38 with a family so not necessarily the most stable decision but because of you and other woodworkers taking the time to share your knowledge I am my own boss. Thank you!

[@ramonartful]

Yes…you can use Baltic for dominos! I thought I had mentioned that in this video, but it must have been a different vid. Baltic Birch ply works well for odd connections as dominos too. Like maybe an “L” shape or T shape. I’m surprised we don’t see more of this. Thanks for the good words…I simply love sharing that works for me. And congrats on working for yourself!

[@ramonartful]

BTW, the thicker dominos work best for plywood. 👍🏼

[@GuteShepherdHuts]

Just made some dominos for an embellishment on some drawers. Thanks for the video. Question for you: what is that magnetic pen-holder you have on your shirt at 12:50? How does it stay on your shirt?

[@ramonartful]

Thanks a lot for watching! Yep, for the last 25 years, I’ve been wearing two magnets on my shirts. One inside and one out. I use 1/8” thick x 1/2” round. I never lose my pencil 😬

[@GuteShepherdHuts]

@@ramonartful Smart! I will be copying this immediately.

[@ramonartful]

@@GuteShepherdHuts It's amazing to always have a pencil handy! 😆

[@a91customs]

Great series Ramon! Which versions are the shop drawers, the version with the grooves? Do you do the drawers with a RAS after the belt sander?

[@ramonartful]

The only time I use a groove (and that will only be on the sides) is when I use an undermount guide that requires 1/2" dropped down sides. If I can, I'll glue and staple the bottom on directly to the fronts, sides and backs. I like full extension, ball bearing, side-mount guides for shop cabinets...the soft close versions work better with weight in them. It almost defies logic, but it is in fact stronger than a groove, since it prevents any racking. And yes, usually sanded with 120 or 150 with a belt sander, then finish sanded with 180 with RAS. Thanks man

[@asderven]

Thank you for sharing the video. Would you have any suggestions on how to round over the tenons with a plunge router? I have the 2.25hp Bosch router, I can’t think of a safe way to make a tenon with it. Don’t have a router table.

[@ramonartful]

Years ago, all of my furniture was made with router created mortise/tenon joinery. A simple platform can be made to hold the furniture components, a slot in the jig or platform that corresponds to a router collar will guide the cut(s). Both mating components get mortises. Then I’d make lengths of slip tenons…3’ or so to make them manageable. These can be ripped to size at the table saw and rounded over to match the radius of the bit used for the mortises. It’s very effective. A large base plate could be made for your plunge router…clamp this to a table or saw horses…add a fence and you have a decent router table. Hope that helps

[@asderven]

@@ramonartful thank you, that helps. It's another story to see if my skills are up to it 😁. I am really bad with jigs, but I just started, so with practice, they will improve 👍.

[@jhcampbell7528]

Hey Ramon. I really enjoy watching your videos, especially your furniture with hidden drawers. I probably learn more from your videos than almost all the other channels. I'm not sure if you still check comments on your older videos, but here goes. Do you think the shop-made dominos create a joint as strong as the store-bought? I have always assumed that they are compressed so that wood glues will cause them to swell in the mortise, creating an extremely tight bond...making the joint stronger. Does that actually happen, or are shop-made just as strong in the end?

[@ramonartful]

Thanks a ton for the good words! Now…this is a good question and debate. The engineering of grooves and compression of the Domino tenons, certainly makes sense. However, with the unscientific tests that I’ve done, the difference between shop made vs store bought is negligible. The grooves actually mean more glue, but maybe less wood to wood contact.? So for epoxy, the grooves are ideal. For PVA type glues, the expansion of a compressed tenon seems like an advantage. In my mind, quality fitting joints with plenty of long grain to long grain connections are key and paramount. This can usually be achieved with either method. And I believe for many or even most applications, either shop made or store bought tenons are plenty strong for most furniture as long as their quality fitting and long enough. Thanks a ton for the question!

[@jhcampbell7528]

@@ramonartful Thank you for the thoughtful answer, Ramon!

[@toolchuck]

Ramon, I have searched far and wide, the UK, Europe and Australia, and no metric router bits. Any bits that I have found are actually imperial equivalents, such as 1/8" for 3mm and 1/4" for 6mm etc. It appears worldwide imperial is still the standard for router bits. I would love to find or have someone make exact beading bits to make dominos. All the best, Chuck

[@ramonartful]

I find that strange but I’ve had that same experience. I have made plenty of Dominos that fit tightly (even if they’re exposed) but it takes a bit more work. I now keep Festool’s dominos in stock but make my own if they’re going to be exposed…like on my drawer boxes. Thanks for searching and let me know if you find anything. Much thanks.

[@rickchichester9327]

I’ve used paste wax for decades and never had an issue

[@ramonartful]

No issues as far as finishing? What type of finish do you use? Any wax that could transfer to lumber most likely would get jointed, planed or sanded off during construction. At my old work, I had a guy that liked using paste wax on the machines. Occasionally, we would have fish eye when shooting lacquer. It was the only thing that I could attribute to the contamination. Once we stopped using wax, no more problems. Thanks for the feedback

[@reforzar]

Do you only make your own for exposed dominos?

[@ramonartful]

Yes, typically. Or if I run out. Not really a hard rule for me...but yes, in general. Much thanks 🙏🏼

[@ronh9384]

Just recently found your channel and subscribed. I enjoyed this video. Some good information. I am fortunate to have a friend who has a moulding machine and he has profiles made up in various 500 and 700 domino sizes and he always calls to see if I need any dominos when he produces some for himself. The friend who recommended your channel also said you had a video on a door that you either did inlay, marquetry or both on using the Shaper Origin. Do you have a video like that?? Oh and if you ever have a hard time removing factory dominos KZbinr New Brit Workshop has a domino video and he makes a wooden tool to remove stubborn dominos. Thanks for the video and your time. Ron

[@ramonartful]

That’s cool…using a moulding machine would be ideal. I was looking for bullnose bits (essentially two round overs without a bearing) that were metric. I didn’t find anything right away and quit searching. But something like that would be great for making Dominos. I don’t have any issues removing factory Domimos…maybe because here in Northern New Mexico it’s pretty dry 😬 And the door video may have been a teaser…that I had made for last weeks Shaper Sessions. This process of using the Shaper and raw commercial veneer is brand new but can open up a huge arena for those wanting to explore this unlimited realm. I’m super excited to share smy approach. Here’s the link. I’ll show a more detailed vid about this project on Dec 26th. Thanks a ton Shaper, Veneer & Inlay kzbin.info/www/bejne/h3ubg2OnnraXgqs

[@henrysilver2134]

That gear drive on the planer bed is sooo dope. I have the A3-31 I want to put something like that on mine. Is your outfeed support stock from hammer? Or is that custom as well? I've been running into a few issues with snipe on my machine. I've been running it with no outfeed support on the planer. It was hard to justify what Hammer charges for that piece but I might have to go for it unless you suggest another option.

[@ramonartful]

Thanks! I added a link below on the shop-made gear drive…such a fun thing to use! The outfeed planer bed is also shop made…some plywood and Formica! 😆 My planer didn’t snipe, but I added the extension simply to prevent short pieces from falling. It works well. I showed it on Instagram. If you’re interested in seeing that, DM me there and I’ll tag you in the IG vid. Much thanks. Back on the chain, gang kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5vFhXWQbsukkNk

[@henrysilver2134]

Awesome! Thanks for the link 😀. I'll try to find that IG post as well. Also I'll be purchasing a domino dock soon. Unreal suff man! New to finding your channel, great stuff.

[@davidstorton910]

In the UK we would call you a smarty pants (no it's not an insult)

[@ramonartful]

Ha ha …I’ve been called worse😆 Seriously, thank you. Cheers