SHOP TIPS

[@johnstrange6799]

I tend to use a considerable amount of yelling and cursing at broken taps. It doesn't help remove them, but it just comes so natural.

[@RGSABloke]

Mr. Pete, always interesting, never boring, please keep posting. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe

[@whidbeyman]

Begin by grinding down the tap flat, so that no part of the fingers is not surrounded by the collar. Then, use a small brass hammer to hammer a bit on the end of the tap. This loosens the tap in its threads. If the tap breaks off down in the hole, use a brass punch between hammer and tap fragment. Then, use the Wilton. If the tap fragment does not readily back out, repeat the above steps.

[@howder1951]

I agree Paul, what ever you can unload on the threads is going to help, and those delicate fingers need all the support they can get

[@EIBBOR2654]

Paul, I also agree. I've used these Walton tap extractors many times in the Air Force when someone with little experience tried to do our work. Grinding off the broken tap flush is key, never use a hammer and or chisel to do that, that only digs some of the tap in to the wall of the hole, embedding it and causing more problems. In my experience, I would first try to blow chips out with compressed air first. Then I would tap the fingers down through the flutes, then pull the extractor out and give it another blast of compressed air. A little shot of oil helps too. Then after putting the extractor back in, I would rock the extractor back and forth to get some movement. If I got any movement of the tap I usually got it out with no damage to the extractor. It takes a bit of time and patience and knowing when the extractor just isn't going to work. If the extractor didn't work, then I had to break out the carbide dental burrs to drill through the center of the tap to break it up if possible. Aircraft parts are very expensive and sometimes in short supply, especially engine parts, so we had to try everything we could to save a part. If we couldn't a lot of people would get mad at us, then we would have to explain that we were there to fix someone else's mistake that wouldn't have happened if they called us first. Such is the life of an Air Force aircraft Machinist.

[@Cavemannspace]

Good information, as usual, and my introduction to tap extractors. Among the most valuable information and instruction we get is instruction as to how to keep from breaking something or ruining a workpiece! I'll gladly take that every day! That rates second only to safety and I truly appreciate your constant common sense safety reminders and not taking any shortcuts on safety. Another excellent instructional video. Thanks Mr. Pete.

[@OldSweetTed]

I always wondered how to remove a broken tap and now I know. I didn't appreciate how easy it was to break a tap. I've been lucky! Thank you, Tubalcain!

[@garbo8962]

I'm an electrician and the dozen times that I tried using the Walton 3 or 4 finger broken taps they never worked. This was on 6/32 8/32 & 1/4" taps. Gave away the few new ines that I had. Always used tapmatic fluid when tapping but sure taps that I broke were dull. Thsnks for all the great vids.

[@peterwill3699]

40 years as maintenance mechanic,never had any luck with these type of extractors. drilled with carbide,heated to soften, shadderd them,small punch.Dull taps and inexperience are big causes.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Thanks for sacrificing a tap and tap extractor to show us how the extractor "works."

[@timmadden8849]

Thank you for your explanation. I just happen to acquire a box assorted taps from a 98 year of gentleman and a tool I didn't recognize was in with them, it was a 1/8 (6mm) tap extractor. The fellas in the machine shop I work will like this too. Thanks again.

[@ChrisLoganToronto]

Thank you Tubalcain! I found a Walton 3/8 - 10 mm in an old toolbox from an estate sale and had no idea what it was. So, went to Garage Journal and posted it up where quickly it was identified as a broken tap extractor. Had no idea how that would work, searched youtube and of course it led me here. Now I know. Likely will never use it. But at least I know what it is!

[@robert574]

1. If the broken end of the tap sticks up, grind it down near the surface. Take the part and give the top of the broken tap a few taps with a flat punch and hammer (not too hard just to loosen it). 2. Put the part in a vise on a drill press or a mill, centered on the spindle with a drill chuck. Blow out any chips, give it a little oil and install the extractor and put the tap handle on it. 3. Next we need to hold the top of the extractor straight with something in the drill chuck (a pin that fits in the opening of the handle above the extractor or maybe a center on top). 4. Lower the spindle with one hand using light pressure and wiggle the tap handle with the other. The idea is to keep the extractor in contact and straight so the fingers are only in shear and least likely to bend. That's your best chance for the extractor to work and If you see them bending, stop and try to loosen it some more. If the tap breaks deep in the hole, you might be able to put the top half of the tap back in and just slide in the extractor fingers to twist the piece out. See if you can run a hex nut around the tap. If you can't find a tap extractor, I have removed broken taps using straight pieces of music wire, the top of the tap and a hex nut that matches the tread. You'll need to open up the hex nut a little with a drill bit, but leave enough thread so it still hangs on to the tap thread. You will need 3-4 pieces of music wire per flute (pack them in tightly), run the hex nut down against the part (not tight) and still use the drill press or mill chuck to hold it. That's how I was taught by an old tool and die maker. I can hear him now, "Broke off a tap, huh? (chuckle)" Then when you gave up, he'd take the tap out for you. What a great guy he was.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@GBewley]

I would think that the first move is indeed to break the tap off as closely to the top of the workpiece as possible, thereby allowing the fingers to be supported at all points. Leaving that space surely allows the fingers, unsupported, to twist and fail. Not to say it will always work in that way, but I’d think they fail often when there is space. Love your videos, Tubal...thank you for them!

[@pedroandrade5429]

I usually go for the "sacrificial" carbide end mill and some patience. For your typical M6 spin a 4mm carbide end mill at about 3000 RPM touch the top of the broken tap, and then feed 3 or 4 thou in every pass you take. eventually the tap shaters apart and usully leaves a reasonably good thread. Secrets learned from a toolmaker... and used quite a few times

[@billlee5307]

Mr Pete, I'd say bleeding for your watchers goes beyond the call of duty! When I taught graduate students a very basic shop course their first job was to drill and tap two 1/4 inch steel plates for 10-32 machine screws so the plates could be held together. They all got their own new taps and drills. Few got the four holes lined up and it was rare for them to get the two tapped holes done before braking their taps. Thanks!

[@tfp777]

I gave up on all the gadgets and tooling to remove broken taps early on in my career building machinery. Fortunately there was another shop close by that had a Metal Disintegration Machine (MDM). This is the most efficient and cost effective way to remove broken taps, bolts or what ever.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

I see you got the same results that I always have. I have never been able to get a tap out with one of those things. I don't even consider using them now. I try to grind out the tap with a dremel with a tiny grinding bit or I try to use a punch and break up the tap if it is large enough. Keep on keeping on.

[@bearsrodshop7067]

Left hand drills work miracles when extractors fail 😜

[@droddy2hottie]

Sometimes I'll hang on to broken tools to remind myself of the lessons learned. I find I learn more from everything going wrong than I do when things go right.

[@yanneman57]

In a school environment it can be smart to keep broken and banged up tools as examples to show students why and how they break from unintended or incorrect use.

[@tomherd4179]

Another method I have seen on youtube and tried, which actually worked for me (but you need a welder) was: I cleaned the broken tap which was flush as best as possible then carefully TIG welded a series of tacks (308/309 rod) to the tap building it up until I was able to get vise grips on it. Plus the heat helps. I suppose MIG could be used as well, maybe even stick if the tap was large enough. But TIG being easily controlled probably is the best.

[@johnstone9396]

weld don't like to stick to hardened taps, it can be done obviously but if a person were not an experienced welder, I would save that trick for another day.

[@MIGASHOORAY]

I would have gone for the vice grips straight away ,I have broken a couple of taps in my time but a good cuss or a few choice words helps to fix things. Great video,s mr pete cheers from down under.

[@danbywater6333]

you are great teacher I'd have liked to have been a student in your class I enjoy your videos very much!!!I learned about taps and dies extracting and so forth on the job with a very patient a boss I had when I was young you remind me allot of him Tublican

[@GarthGoldberg]

I didn't know there was such a tool. Thanks. Breaking the tap was painful.

[@SquirrelsForAll]

Thank you for posting, this was very much appreciated and educational.

[@mrpete222]

🤙

[@tpcoachfix]

My son and I were building an engine for one his cars, I had him cleaning up up the threads in the threaded holes in the block. I commented to him to to be very careful not to break the tap, he said "Don't worry dad I'll be alright". Less than a minute later I heard the tap snap and him cursing. I bought one of those tap extractors and got the broken tap out.

[@ypop417]

some times even being careful is not enough!

[@johnhili8664]

Then you must be a very fortunate man!!!! You must go and buy a lottery ticket as I am sure you will win a prize:-))

[@adam19890911]

Mr Pete is such a good machinist he can't break a tap the way it's supposed break.

[@JCMakerspace]

Never used a tap extractor. I almost bought some and a guy I worked with said they weren't very good to get out broken taps as you demonstrated. I have had success getting them out using a TIG welder and welding a nut on them. EDM is the only other method I've heard of getting them out.

[@ruppi42]

Very interesting presentation, thank you very much! I didn´t even know that tap extractors exist.

[@jamesprocyk6444]

I watched this video thinking : oh don't do that again, glad I didn't try the bottom tap first, lots of good advice. What timing, I broke of a tap in a 1/4" rod yesterday making a second magnetic chip pick-up from your video. I used a Dermel cut-off wheel to take 3/16's off the rod and vise gripped the broken tap out. Found a bottom tap, thought not a good idea and kept looking and found another taper tap. Also re-drilled and deepen the hole. Of course that meant I had to shorten the copper pipe 3/16, but now I have two chip pick-ups, one is just a little shorter. Your videos are better than I remember shop class, more like one on one instruction.

[@Rusty411]

the most satisfying thing ever it to extract broken bolts and taps I personally think when you get to that point where you can successfully extract you have made it as a mechanic lol

[@SeanBZA]

For the smaller tap sizes a good way to clean the swarf out of the holes first is to take that thin stainless steel reinforcement strip out of an old windscreen wiper blade, grind it down a little and use it to work them out. then you have a lot better chance to get the piece out. The 3 flute taps are very common in Metric taps, the Imperial ones i have are either 4 slot or 2 slot. Another way to break a tap is to hit a flaw or inclusion in a cast aluminium unit, which binds the one side of the tap and chips the teeth and then jams it. Those old taps do make very nice centre punches or scriber’s though, once you have ground the tip down to a sharp point

[@alexandernoelturner725]

I am always very nervous on using taps and dies, Thank you for your prompt reply.

[@bobrees4363]

I was very surprised when the tap broke fairly evenly so far above the surface. When I saw that, my first thought was to screw a nut down flush with the surface and then weld the inside of the nut to the tap. I believe that has a better chance of getting the tap out than the Wilton tap extractor. Yes, I have attempted to use them in the past, never had any luck with them. With tiny #6 and #8 taps, I have found you are better off using a brand new tap for each hole, praying a lot does not hurt either. Buying new taps gets expensive, but is cheaper than spending a day or two trying to get a broken one out of something that costs several hundred dollars.

[@jameskrivitsky9715]

Good instructional Mr. Pete. I have had a couple of taps break as well as EASY OUTS when trying to extract frozen bolts. I resorted to trying to drill out the tool or part with progressively larger drill bits and hope that they don't break by using plenty of lube. Lastly I resorted to using the smallest hardened drill bit allowable and drilling into the softer base metal at the edge of the broken part. Lubed it heavily and hoped with the drilling heat and lube, that the frozen part might loosen. If I did extract the broken part, then I would bore out the original hole with a slightly larger bit and CAREFULLY tap the enlarged hole. Hope that MURPHY's LAW gives me a "Break" ! PUN intended ! HA ! Thanks....fellow MacGyver.....Jim K

[@1929HSS]

Have had success with diamond tipped hollow core drills. They will drill out the broken taps. Takes several as the diamond "grit" wears away over time, takes me about three of them to drill out one broken tap. But it works.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@dougvanallen2212]

Mr Pete I actually had success with one of those one time I guess I got lucky.the time after that not so lucky.so I gave them away . Another great video thank you so much for your time

[@cemx86]

If the tap had broken off flush to the surface I would think that the fingers might have been held captive by the hole and would then be less likely to twist and break. If the tap started to turn then it might be necessary to stop, break the tap off flush again, and try some more. My (zero experience with tap extractors) $0.02.

[@dougbourdo2589]

Tap Extractors and "Easy Out" style broken bolt extractors are usually futile attempts. Learned early on that great care while drilling the proper size hole then using good quality taps in proper manner greatly reduces this potential. Still, have experienced my share of broken taps & easy outs. Usually it was on heavy equipment so the flame wrench was called upon to complete the job. Would love to learn more about ED removal.

[@Just1GuyMetalworks]

Wow, those sacrifices will not be in vain. 😁 I've never actually used an extractor before. I do know removing a tap after requires drastic measures 🤣. Enter the ol' mig eraser after chopping the little bugger out lol. Thanks for the video, Mr. Pete! 😊

[@alanstapleton3818]

the tap should be ground flush and the tap extractor i have has a small locking collar you bring down onto the collar to stop it moving also if the fingers start to twist and bend they can be removed and straightened and then re-inserted. I have successfully removed a 4mm tap that was 20mm deep in the hole as it was a part of a milling machine it was vital that the tap was removed or i would have had to spend hundreds of pounds on a new part for the machine. i did find that being fairly gentle and keep trying was the answer so while they are not infallible they do work with a little patience.

[@jjs4x]

I have a full set of those but haven't used them in fear they won't hold up. The good thing is I haven't had the need to for them as of yet. Best of all they were given to me.

[@dosbox907]

they'd be good for a situation like if the tap broke because the work fell off the bench. but you could probably turn it with a punch at that point... so yeah.. no clue i guess haha

[@roberthorner8494]

I NEVER NEW HOW THE TAP EXTRACTOR WORKED. THANK MR. PETE.

[@tompas11A3n52KkX]

In school it's good to keep broken tools like those extractors so you can show the students that these tools don't do the job they are supposted to every time. Nice video by the way.

[@Ohmcrazy2]

Yup. Those gizmos rarely work and self destruct on the first use. Ramming the fingers in probably makes matters worse by packing chips even tighter into what little "clearance" is left. I had success drilling out with a carbide drill but starting out is tough if the end isn't relatively flat. Chipping and picking away some times works but also unseen bits and pcs of tap can get embedded in the threads and you end up breaking another tap when you go to chase and clean up. Prevention is key!😄

[@davejoynt6276]

I have gotten 100s of taps out with these. #1. Remove all cracked or broken pieces of taps. #2. Remove all chips from flutes with air and picks. #3. Slowly move tap back and forth with the tap extractor until you can back the tap out. 33 years experience as a plastic injection moldmaker.

[@mrpete222]

😀😀😀

[@aceroadholder2185]

I've never had much luck with tap exrtactors either. The best is burning them out, unfortunately not many people have a tap burner. I have acided them out, but that involves high strength sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid... something you really wouldn't want to keep in your home shop. If the tap isn't too small and protrudes above the work, I have silver soldered a piece to the top of the tap and successfully gotten the tap out. I guess the most important thing is don't make matters worse by bumming up the hole and leaving a mess after you eventually get the tap out.

[@GraphicManInnovations]

would not the acid dissolve/damage the part as well?

[@aceroadholder2185]

@@GraphicManInnovations The trick was to make a cofferdam around the the broken tap with clay. We put the acid in with a syringe. The acids attacked the tap's alloy steel much more vigorously than the work piece. An electric discharge tap burner is really the trick item to have to remove broken taps. I've seen shop-made burners, but I don't have directions on how to build one. The best advice is to avoid breaking the tap. Take a small scrap piece of aluminum and drill holes in it to guide the tap straight into the work. Also remember that while most tap drill tables give sizes for a ~75% thread, a 50% thread tapped to a depth equal to the tap's diameter will break a standard bolt before the threads will strip out. It is much easier to tap as well. A 100% thread requires twice the power of a 75% to tap, but is only 5% stronger. The only time a 100% thread is helpful is for tapped holes in very thin material. Cheers from NC/USA

[@GraphicManInnovations]

@@aceroadholder2185 thanks for your reply, i did not know that the acid will affect the hss more than the mild steel, how long it takes for i to dissolve ?

[@aceroadholder2185]

@@GraphicManInnovations An hour or so. Didn't have to completely dissolve the tap, just the cutting flutes to release the tap from the work. The acid would be changed several times with a syringe during the process. The core of the tap could be then fished out with tweezers and needle nosed pliers. If you try this, be extremely careful. Acid proof gloves, full face shield and no exposed skin. We mixed the acids 50/50 and this stuff will burn/blind you instantly. Store the acids in well marked storage that a person not knowledgeable about acid can't easily get into... it's like battery acid on steroids. If the acid did damage the work, we'd install Helicoils or Keenserts to repair the thread. In the home shop the Keenserts are handy because they don't require special taps or tools to install.

[@GraphicManInnovations]

@@aceroadholder2185 got you, thanks a lot:)

[@metalmogul4691]

Learnings very best method is unfortunately failure. Tap extractors are a means to salvage the failure, but they only turn out to be, at times, more learning. Learning, can be cruel and unforgiving, but when the lesson is completly understood it gives much power for future similar experiences.

[@krl9747]

If your careful a 1/2 second blast with a well placed plasma cutter immediately disintegrates the tap. I have successfully done this a few times. works like a champ!

[@TheFirearmEnthusiast]

I only learnt that these existed today at work. When I used to work in a toolroom we would use an EDM lol.

[@Jm4steam]

excellent démonstration

[@1musicsearcher]

I have the same opinion for these things. A small "Tap-matic" head in a drill press sure lessens the anxiety.

[@componenx]

I just discovered these extractors 6 months ago, and thought they were a great idea... Then I had a chance to use one a few weeks ago and found out how worthless the small sizes are! The tap broke off just below the surface, and I used heat beforehand. Ended up cutting it out with a carbide bit. Good things they were from an estate sale. I'd hope the big sizes would be better, but who knows?

[@71nortcomm]

I only ever had to do this once and fortunately it worked. The advice I got was to get lots of extra fingers and keep breaking them off until the tap moves. This is really only for stuff that can't be discarded, like an engine block. Otherwise, just toss it.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks for watching

[@grntitan1]

Good video. I learned not to waste my money on tap extractors. I too never get lucky enough to have a tap break and leave a stub long enough to grab.

[@precisionmachineshed]

Thanks for this. Just got a Kennedy Chest set and had a box of these in there. Wasn't sure what they were. Mystery Solved!

[@donstor1]

Yea, I can’t see where these extractors would work for many broken taps. You can see the Physics here where the twisting forces would twist the extractors to destruction. I don’t know if better steel would work or not but it seems to me that the only hope one would have of getting the broken tap end out would be if it broke above the work. I’m sure that is rare indeed. Thanks again for a great subject.

[@mrpete222]

They are pretty worthless

[@Tryin2FlyII]

Interesting video Mrpete-It sure seem like a good way to remove a busted tap so I thought lol but after watching you try it I honstly don't think anyone could ever get one out using that type of too l .Two thumbs up!

[@drummerboysmith968]

This situatation is what EDM was made for.

[@monadking2761]

I was mentoring a high school student in a robotics team the other night and all I heard was the student say, oh no!, after he started to learn how to tap and yes he snapped the tap! I told him that was your first snapped tap and it will not be your last. He has not snapped any since he has learned the fealing of how to do it correctly. A little at a time and to back it out and clean and lub the flutes works best. I told him you don't want to ever rush tapping.

[@mrpete222]

Yes, that's good advice

[@ypop417]

When removing broken taps I use a small hammer and chisel this tedious work. My high school machine shop teacher told us of removing a tap with nitric acid. I have never had to resort to this method fortunately. Have used a torch to burn it out though.

[@dougankrum3328]

..."Tap Out'....Nitric acid......works well on thread forming taps that break....they're usually in there too tight for any mechanical type remover to work....

[@josiahpadgett3440]

That's exactly how I get them out! Besides burning them out or drilling with carbide it's about the best way.

[@hopper1]

I have a set of tap extractors taking up space in my tool box at work. They haven't worked and I haven't even bother trying to use them in the last four or five years. I usually grab the air hammer with a punch and try to finish breaking up the tap.

[@matthewhelton1725]

Never use a tool to do your thinking for you; the broken tap extractor is a means to solve a problem... the problem is, is it is a very specific problem (taps nearly always break uniquely in some way - I guess Murphy loves variety). Not criticizing, but I would have trimmed the broken tap remnant square with a cutoff wheel to make certain the extractor had as secure a "bite" as possible. I've had a Walton work ~once~ for me. But it was an "ideal" use-case; a broken tap, snapped off flush in aluminum; it was a deep hole tap (the only tap I had in the size), so the tap body was smaller than the thread size. Gentle heat and the Walton Extractor got the tap out and saved the threads in the hole. Once I got another tap, the job was completed. The cause was a dull tap and not enough cutting fluid... cutting aluminum without enough fluid can cause it to seize suddenly, and I think this was the case here. Most of use don't have access to a wire EDM to get out a broken tap, and instead have to rely on Carbide Straight Flute drills, or use copious quantities of miniature Diamond burrs used for dental work to drill out the center of the tap remnant and get it to collapse in the hole. I'm about 1 for 8 (lifetime) "saving" a hole using this method (able to finish the job at the desired size in the base material)... most of the time I had to enlarge the damaged hole after getting the tap remnant out, and repair the threads with a Helicoil or Time-sert or tap to the next size which will clean up the hole. You can easily waste an entire day's work on a single hole - I believe this is why machinists are almost always grumpy.

[@infoanorexic]

I have taps from an old set of Buffalo's that, even being old and rusty, I would trust easier than some of the tapping tools you might find at the auto parts store these days. Today's 'cheap' tools makes yesteryears 'cheap' tools look like high quality stuff.

[@PeterWMeek]

Tap extractors work best if the fingers are supported by the walls of the hole and by the body of the tap. That way they are operating in shear mode rather than stiffness mode. When a tap is broken off above the surface (as in your demo) the fingers are unsupported by the hole and easily bent. The same is true if the tap is broken off deep in the hole. Now the fingers are not supported by the body of the tap and, again, can easily be twisted off. They work best (if they will work at all) when the tap is broken flush with the top of the workpiece. That said, if a tap is really stuck, these extractors won't help much. They are mostly for removing taps broken by some sideways impact or bending force, and not really stuck in the hole at all.

[@riceburner32]

if the tap tap isn't really stuck the chances are it's not going to break.

[@Orgakoyd]

I think he meant if somebody really leaned on the wrench on one side.

[@blakemarshburn2689]

One time I broke a tap off and used a spring loaded center punch and worked it out a little at a time in a bad location I think this might have got that one like all your videos keep up the good work

[@mrpete222]

Thanks for watching

[@AWDJRforYouTube]

The problem with these tools, mostly with the small dia. taps, is that the fingers "trap" the chips in the threads[that is the reason for the grooves between the flutes; to allow for chips to clear away from the threads] they are now filled with the fingers...the chips have no where to go so they act as thread locking wires so you just twist the fingers up and the tap doesn't budge.

[@danielwerger5641]

I've only really had success by welding a nut on and wrenching the thing. The weld heat also helps break the galling a wee bit....

[@simonp347]

I've never seen this thing work.... Only method that works like a charm is by weld/ braze a nut to the stub and turn it with a wrench. The combination of heat and higher torque really helps.

[@campbellmorrison8540]

Really interesting thank you, Ive never seen tap extractors before, I have seen and unsed bolt extractors but with similar lack of success on well frozen bolts and then the bolt extraxtor breaks you really are screwed

[@marksinden4156]

When a tap has broken off above the surface like your example one did, can the sliding collar be driven down over the exposed part of the tap to hold the fingers tightly into the tap grooves? That would stop them being able to twist where they leave the parent metal, and might aid in withdrawing the tap.

[@sleepmore1102]

So true the fingers can't take any real punishment. I have in the past shortened the mangled ones to reuse another day.

[@steveone]

My first step is allways reach for the gas bottle and heat it up . Sometimes Ive got em out with long nose pliers .

[@jojomama4787]

yeah,folks trying to start the tap crooked,using a hand tap in a drill,and like you said not backing up to break the chip...the taper/starting tap is your friend!

[@Tryin2FlyII]

After reading other comments down below (made more sense) it seems there is a lot of prep work before using this remover so maybe they are useful after all. Like I first thought it sure seemed like a good idea

[@peterwill3699]

The fingers should not have been exposed,nothing to hold them in flutes.Love your videos

[@Marvin.Runyon]

That's what I was thinking. If it is flush, there is no place for the fingers to move and twist to failure.

[@chemech]

I've had them twist when the cap is flush with the face... The fingers are delicate...

[@ScottandTera]

might have worked if the collar slid down over the tap

[@AWDJRforYouTube]

Yes great observation, I think he should slide down the locking cooler..I have to watch again?

[@ScottandTera]

Walpho52 well if the tap had broken off flush the the locking collar would have went flush with the work pieces and the hole would have kept the fingers from jumping out of the flutes better that if it were above the work

[@mikewalton5469]

great stuff, keep em coming!

[@MaturePatriot]

Another educational video. Yes you could have done all the things listed in the comments, but those have seldom worked for me.

[@mrpete222]

+Mature Patriot yes, everyone in the comments has a better way of doing it

[@shootgp]

Is there any chance that liquid nitrogen and a center punch could shatter a tap to the point it's fragments could be extracted?

[@mrfixit992]

I have always got the broken tap out with the wisegrip. The problem might however been if there was room for it. Wisegrip rules!

[@dougmanor1988]

Excellent!

[@ericchevalier74]

I always have a lot of luck with with broken taps. I usually smash them with a center punch until they break piece by piece.

[@GraphicManInnovations]

that worked with you with what sizes?

[@dalmatiangirl61]

As for saving broken taps, I grind the broken end flush and they work great as bottoming taps.

[@mrpete222]

Yes, I have done that. It's just that I have thousands of taps

[@shadowdog500]

I've only seen them used a couple of times, and every time the results were the same as yours. I have had success using a carbide burr in a cheap high speed dental hand piece (AKA the drill the dentist uses in your mouth) but it works slow and takes a while to do. Chris

[@ericsolomonrent]

Thanks for the great videos

[@billythekid9694]

I think you extended the extractor pins too far. And this weakens the action. I believe you should not prong the pins more than a 1/2" and place the collar as much close as possible. This will reinforce them. Striking some blows on the tap, in advance, also helps loosening it. Some heat applied to the piece may also help as it leads to some expansion of the same. Do not forget to spray some thin lubricant as WD40 or similar and allow a couple of minutes to penetrate. If the tap brokes too shallow so you can't grab it by a plier, you may try to weld a nut by placing welding, thru the nut hole, the top of the tap and the nut. It works very well.

[@elsdp-4560]

THANK YOU...for sharing.

[@michaelstorm8578]

I have had good results welding a nut to broken bolts to remove them. I wonder if a nut could of been welded to the long stub of tap sticking out? I have never tried to weld to HS steel.

[@mrpete222]

I need to try that method

[@michaelstorm8578]

It would be interesting to plug weld a nut to the tap. Maybe the heat from welding would soften the tap a bit and make it less brittle.

[@sueclapham108]

Very enjoyable thanks

[@hossinabdal2703]

Thanks mr.pete Ure videos are great Can U give me access to Ure private videos ?I have watched all of them but previous videos are private and they can help me learn alot I'm a student of manufactering.

[@mrpete222]

I have no private videos. Unless you are referring to my video courses which of course have a fee.

[@gordoneckler4537]

I've had the same experience with the tap extractors

[@jeffmoss26]

nice video, thanks for sharing!

[@kali223laron]

thanks 4 your help once again

[@redkap5816]

Could you weld a nut to the broken tap and use a wrench to turn it out? thanks for the videos

[@robertschulke1596]

Have you tried heating the part, and hitting the tap with a shot of refrigerant? The idea is to shock it and get a dimensional change.

[@mrpete222]

I have not tried that

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

Bolt extractors are pretty worthless too. Thanks for the video!

[@allannoyes4560]

Thanks for the demonstration, any idea of how they still sell this tool?

[@John_Ridley]

Same reason they sell bolt extractors. Though they don't work very often they do work sometimes and by the time you're using this, you're pretty desperate. Also I think had this one been used differently (see other comments) it probably would have worked.

[@alexandernoelturner725]

Would heating the metal (not the tap) help before trying to extract the tap?

[@UnbeltedSundew]

Yeah it can, sometimes, sort of. It can also make it worse sometimes. My best successes at getting taps out is if they hopefully have a nub above the surface and you can tack welding rod on to it and back it carefully out. The biggest problem with any method that gets the metal hot however is that it can warp the piece, which is often the very thing you were trying to avoid in the first place by using bolts and is therefore out of the question.

[@donwest5387]

tap-hole drilled too small? I machine tapped stainless steel: 8-32 (1000pcs)

[@sanchitkumar6190]

I want to remove M8*1.25 Tap please guide me...

[@kenibnanak5554]

An expensive video to make. One tap, one tap extractor, both trash, ouch. Thank you for your sacrifice. :) Most of my taps if they break do so about 1/8 inch below the work surface.

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

And a personal injury to boot, Mr. Pete goes the mile for us...

[@D3faulted1]

Had a tap shatter and a piece imbed itself into a finger. I thought it just cut me. A week latter it was festering a little and I put a magnet near it. Kinda freaky watching your skin move. Had to get it cut out.