Shopsmith Sheave Lubrication - No Headstock Removal

[@kayshish143]

starting the shopsmith would trip the power. Following your example, I can now start my shopsmith without tripping the power. Thank you for sharing, it is appreciated.

[@rexseven93]

Very good video. I have one from the late 90's and the lower sheave was giving me trouble. I had to get in to lube it and had forgotten the details. Haven't used it in a while. Again, good job on the video. One thing I found that makes it easier to change speed while manually spinning the mechanism is to put the sanding disk on. Gives you a large wheel to spin the motor.

[@roadking62]

Thanks. Good video. I didn't have a oiler, so I poured about a 1/4 inch of oil in a bottle cap, and used a straw, by holding my finger over the top, and releasing when over the hole. Worked well.

[@ericswild]

Thank you, I have the chance to pick one of these up very cheap this week. it looks fairly easy to service. Just one more sales point....

[@tomlaepple9144]

It is always a good idea to unplug the machine when going inside the case to lubricate. It is easy to touch the on-off switch from the inside giving you a shock. it is always a good idea to remove the lathe drive spur from the extending quill because it is sharp to prevent possible injury. While you are inside the machine the speed control cam and gear can use a very small amount of lubricant such as Johnson's paste wax. Adding a very small amount will mean that the speed control changing will be easier to move up to speed and to slow down easier. Good Job and very well done. From a former Shopsmith employee.

[@cmombo1652]

Without a doubt one of the best explanatory videos I have seen - nice step-by-step explanations, good close up video shots, a clear voice, and a good pace. Thank you very much.

[@billlarrabee9436]

I have owned a Shopsmith for a few years now and I emphasize constant maintenance. Lubrication is the most important part but cleanliness is also just as important. Always apply wax on everything! The way tubes especially need the wax. All table like surfaces need waxing as well. All metal will rust in time and the Shopsmith is nothing but metal. So wax it all and often! Bottom line, keep it clean and it will last a lifetime. My Shopsmith was built in 1986 and it still looks and runs like a new one plus I am the third owner. Love it!

[@rrrrkoop2776]

thanks, what kind of wax

[@LoneWolf-yp2mo]

Everyone says Johnsons paste wax, so ... I use Johnson paste wax !! LOL !! Makes a big difference moving things around and prevents rust also ! I absolutely LOVE mine !!

[@WelshRabbit]

@@rrrrkoop2776, I have always had good results with a product called "Trewax" paste wax, which an old-timer Shopsmith friend insisted had no equal. The key ingredient to look for is a high percentage of "Carnuba wax," which forms a hard but slippery protective coating, much more durable than common floor waxes or (Heaven forbid) liquid wax, which you may hear sometimes recommended.

[@arthilliker3721]

Just did a 510 upgrade to my 500. You reminded me that NOW is the time to do preventive maintenance while I have the motor off. I absolutely LOVE these machines !!

[@ronwood3214]

I watched a few of these shopsmith maintenance videos I liked how you manually moved it to high speed to oil it. I never stop the machine and start it at high speed. when you finished and I Iknow it was for demonstration only that you turned it on and brought it up to speed from the back side of the machine I think it’s worth mentioning never to do that with 3 moving shafts it looked like your shirt was coming DANGEROUSLY close to getting caught, please stay safe and also demonstrate safety.

[@jcritch42]

Very good! Great visuals! Concise.

[@rrrrkoop2776]

This is timely. I stumbled onto this and am glad I did. I bought a Mark V from a widow (like many) with just about every attachment it seems for 1,000 about 10 or more years ago. Just got it out of the back of my garage and into my shop last week. getting it cleaned up. I'm an electrician not a woodworker but now retired so learning. Anyway. thanks, I will do the maintenance right away before using.

[@johnanthony2545]

Just retired myself. Congratulations sir. Enjoy.

[@merrittbeymer5102]

I just purchased a Greenie Shop Smith today. Motor only rotated extremely slowly, about 1rpm. So, I have some maintenance to do. Thanks for posting this.

[@robertvandever8923]

Thanks for the video, got a 79 shopsmith at the habitat for humanity store for $600 with all the accessories and original books a couple days ago. Motor was seized. Got it freed up and spinning but now there is a nasty squeal. Going to lube it up today and see if that fixes it

[@pacoblancosmith]

Great vid. And 3-in-1 is just fine as long you maintain your machine.

[@salimufari]

This operation could also be done with a small coffee straw or the like too. As long as the oil vessel can fit the end at all.

[@migalito1955]

My 1980 Mark V is identical except for the paint job which is grey as opposed to the initial green color and the inspection port has the screw and pivot. Cool machine, I like mine a lot but then I received it and a power station free, so maybe that influences my opinion.

[@garyjhammen]

If you mount your sanding disc when you go to hand turn the motor, it will make turning it much easier. You can also turn the disc with a cordless drill and sanding drum to make the motor move easier.

[@michaelbuddy]

Thanks for making this video. Been returning to it on occasion to get motivated to do this.

[@dugfreshable]

I picked one up yesterday. Thanks for the guide! I have a lot of work to clean it up, its not been treated very well.

[@tomolson9811]

Well done Very clear and imformative

[@doublej82]

Thank you, this was very helpful!

[@dman0044]

I have the VR, upgraded to 510. Rebuild motor, replace toggle switch 3-4 times.

[@brettster3331]

Great instructional video, however 3 in 1 oil is only useful for gun maintenance it gets gummy and will cause parts to stick and freeze over time in machines. Use a full synthetic clock or sewing machine oil for all other uses of a light weight oil, it does not gum up and lasts for a very long time.

[@TeamProsperity]

Decent video although since you have the cover off and before you lubricate the sheaves it’s a good idea to first blow the unit out with an air hose, used graphite to lubricate the speed control and then oil the sheaves at least that’s the way I do it

[@WoodResurrected]

True, was just showing the oiling. Thanks for viewing!

[@gfroese4799]

I have always wanted to try one of them

[@PXstella]

So multipurpose 3 in 1 for lubricant?

[@Peter-od7op]

I wish i had this one. I just got a mark v I I. Mine is missing key for motor

[@wallyg9512]

Very helpful video, thank you

[@waltmooredanwilson8754]

Great video. Thanks for sharing. Take care and God Bless.

[@timwarren9383]

Helpt out alot, no bullshit...

[@Bamaoutdoors]

Thanks for the info I just got a shopsmith mark V. What other Maintenance do I need to do? It is in great shape and would like to keep it that way.

[@WoodResurrected]

Waxing, oiling and keeping things clean are pretty much the only servicing you should need to do. I have videos for both. The other is the basic teardown and reassembly including waxing. Thanks for checking out the video and stay safe!

[@Bamaoutdoors]

@@WoodResurrected I'll look at the rest when I get time. Thanks

[@CraigKennedy-l5b]

I think my shopsmith is from the late 50s and it doesn't have the opening under the red cover. Do you think it would be ok to cut a hole in it with a hole saw to access the upper sheave?

[@camthehedgehog]

He HaS a GrEeNiE!!! Those are rare!

[@rrrrkoop2776]

by the way, i'm missing a drill chuck, where's the best place to buy one for my Mark V with 5/8" shaft

[@LoneWolf-yp2mo]

EBay !! Lots of Shop Smith stuff REASONABLE. Some not so reasonable, be patient !!

[@WelshRabbit]

Rodney, practically every part you might ever need is available from Shopsmith. 'Taint cheap, though, but availability is worth a lot.

[@LoneWolf-yp2mo]

Check EBay. They have a lot of parts and accessories on there, sometimes pretty reasonable. As far as I'm concerned SS goes a little crazy with their prices.

[@davidstraussjr1553]

Is there another way of oiling the machine besides you turning it?

[@WoodResurrected]

After adding the oil, you could turn the machine on and run it through the various speeds but you also risk the oil being flung from the locations before it can be spread out. It comes down to preference really. Thanks for stopping by!

[@robertcooper4542]

My Shopsmith has the drive pulley frozen in the low speed position. I've tried liquid wrench. Didn't work. Any suggestions? Also how do you get the spring cap off? Thanks for the help.

[@WoodResurrected]

Robert, you may need to use a puller to get them apart. I haven't taken the motor sheave off but if you look up Jacob Anderson on KZbin I believe he has a video or two that will help.

[@333rpd]

The green and grey Mark 5's were the first, made in the 50's.

[@WoodResurrected]

Correct. 1953 to 1960 to be specific. Mine was made in 1960. Here's a link for reference: www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/toolhistory.htm Thanks for checking it out!

[@WelshRabbit]

Most people pronounce "sheave" to rhyme with "leave." A "shiv" (which rhymes with "give") is an improvised inmate stabbing weapon, not to be confused with a "shank," which can be a shiv but contains at least one cutting edge.

[@davidhays7818]

I worked in the HVAC industry for several years and we called them shivs rhyming with give. Not saying that's correct, that's just what I've always heard them called.

[@WelshRabbit]

@@davidhays7818, ok. Different strokes for different folks, as they say. The Shopsmith manual does refer to the pulley wheels in the headstock as "sheaves."

[@davidhays7818]

I've heard them called sheaves before too. Probably both pronunciations are correct.

[@ohgary]

Construction cranes have pulleys to support the wire rope. These are written as “sheave” but pronounced as “shiv” by operators and maintenance people throughout North America, in my experience. I don’t know what they say in Quebec, however.

[@XPFTP]

anyone have a motor for the gray ?

[@chrishoesing5455]

That looks like the wrong direction to spin a twist bit? What am I missing? Is the video reversed?

[@TinkeringJohn]

At 10:10, he says when the motor turns multiple times, the other pulley makes multiple rotations and the other way around. REALLY???

[@333rpd]

The manual says lube every 10 hours.

[@WoodResurrected]

That's for the drive and idler shaft. It does say to do the sheaves every 25 though. Thanks for the head's up! www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/productmanuals/MKVMaintenance_1_10.pdf

[@333rpd]

​@@WoodResurrected Interesting, I checked my Mark V manual (PL-5331 7/91) and it does say that. however that is a bit confusing as the only part of the idler shaft that gets oiled is the sheaves. The manual for the Mark 5's (greenies ) fails to mention oiling the sheaves at all. The manual for the Mark VII's (1960's) says "OILING PROCEDURE SLIDING SHEAVES for SHOPSMITH MARK VII The SHOPSMITH MARK VII speed changer relies on sliding sheaves to increase or decrease diameters of driving and driven pulleys for changing speed. These are precision, close-fit parts that require oiling for smooth movement of sliding sheaves. GENERAL: Apply oil, as per directions, about every ten hours of actual running time. Before oiling, turn Speed-Dial to "Rout- Shape" range. Turn off switch and unplug cord. Use good- quality machine oil (SAE 10 weight). Special oil can is not required. Merely dip a wire or slender stick in oil and allow a few drops (about three) to drip into holes described. After oiling start machine and operate through complete speed range several times. OILING INTERMEDIATE SHAFT (Fig. 87) Remove nameplate on back of headstock by prying with screwdriver in notch at bottom of metal escutcheon plate (like removing a hub cap). Hand turn spindle until hole in sheave hub can be seen. Place about three drops of oil in hole. Replace nameplate by pressing it on. OILING MOTOR SHAFT (Fig. 88) Remove screws holding Belt Guard to headstock and slide guard along tubes, away from the unit. Hand turn spindle until hole in sleeve hub can be seen. Spread coils of spring with screwdriver and place about three drops of oil in hole. Replace Belt Guard. IMPORTANT-Remember to Oil about Every Ten Hours Actual Running Time." And I have a Mark V maintenance file that does not have a date (not sure where I downloaded it from) and it says "Lubricating the Sheaves 9. Every ten hours of running time or once a month if not is use, lubricate the floating sheaves (pulleys) with a good 10w30 non- detergent motor oil. Be sure to oil both up- per and lower sheaves. Apply the oil spar- ingly (2-5 drops only) as too much will mix with a sawdust and cause parts to stick."

[@jimbaranski4687]

Everybody keeps saying “shivs”, I always thought it was “sheaves”

[@mikeking7470]

Sheave rhymes with sleeve.

[@jimbaranski4687]

Mike King damned auto correct!

[@WoodResurrected]

It is sheaves. I misspoke. Good catch James!

[@randallhemingway7284]

10 -2023

[@uhadonejob]

3in1 oil has changed their formulation. It is the worst thing to put in sewing machines because it becomes thicker with time and seizes. Best look for a quality machine oil.

[@craigwarwick2176]

NoNo

[@benpress8884]

It's a SHEEVE, not a SHIV, and if you follow the instructions in the manual, you don't have to do any of what you're doing.

[@seymourwrasse3321]

spend a few bucks and get a zoom spout oiler and quit diddling with a screwdriver to reach hard spots