Should you get a Japanese pull saw?

[@johanandersson2165]

ahh if i just listen then it sounds like louis rossmann macbook repair

[@insanejughead]

Hahahaha! Only slower and with fewer expletives about corporate shills.

[@ph143]

@@insanejughead And less "screw Apple"

[@charadremur333]

He kinda sorta looks like him to. Pp bus. Lol.

[@kepeb1]

Exactly! Both human, both speak English. Uncanny.

[@NewTypeIII]

I'm glad someone else really noticed that.

[@misfitramone]

The thing I like about the Japanese pull saw is if you square up the reflection of the wood on the side of the saw your cuts end up beautiful and square! I always watch the reflection and it's helped a ton!

[@ian-duh]

This is true of any saw with a shiny-enough plate.

[@EPaulIII]

Great tip. Thanks!

[@zoutewand]

Yup!! The saws also have 2 small knives. One at the bottom and one at the top. The one at the bottom is to cut the fibers before starting, the other one is to cut fibers in a sawline. Bought a set of em for €100, don't regret it

[@somedude2492]

You can polish the side of the blade on your favourite saw and you'll get the same effect.

[@pforce9]

Thank you!

[@BoggWeasel]

Got my first one 10+ years ago, never went back. Easier to do accurate cuts, reduced do overs, It made me like hand sawing wood again. Great vid

[@RexKrueger]

Thanks!

[@censusgary]

I’ve had a Japanese pull saw for several years, and I like it. Hearing you talk about pushing versus pulling makes me wonder why all saws aren’t pull saws.

[@markjustdiditc]

go cut down a log with a pullsaw

[@anthonycraig2471]

As per Tabourba below you can get far more power into a push saw. Unless its delicate work a push saw is the way to go. If you want to test try cutting a couple of 2x4 with a push via a pull and time yourself.

[@jonc8074]

honestly a lot of japanese tools are two handed to maximize leverage because of low body weight, from kitchen whisks to the katana. also they don't have a lot insanely hard wood in Japan like in other places so this saw is always fine to use

[@stanrogers5613]

> "go cut down a log with a pullsaw" You know, that's exactly what people have been doing since forever. Bow saws are used on the pull, as are buck saws and other felling saws. Saw blades are bendy, and cutting on the pull makes a whole lot more sense. "Traditional" push saws are relatively new by comparison, and even those have tended to be backsaws when the accuracy of the cut matters.

[@anthonycraig2471]

​@@stanrogers5613 Bow saws, felling saws, buck saws or any other saws designed for quick, aggressive cutting with little regard to the finish, cut on both the push and pull stroke. Have you ever used a bow saw? If you have and you still think it only cuts on the pull stroke you're not doing it right.

[@xXmartes13Xx]

I didn't know seth everman was so into wood sawing tools.

[@jorge9199]

Woosh me for big gay

[@WhiskeyNeet]

I was thinking Tyler1

[@kiwisadopted3388]

underrated joke

[@moltenhydrogen2218]

@@WhiskeyNeet he looks like if tyler1 had the face of ricardo milos

[@lawabidingcitizen5153]

@@moltenhydrogen2218 true lol

[@edi9892]

I don´t do carpentry and yet this was in my recommended... It reminds me a little of how British soldiers were utterly clueless when they tried to dig trenches with French shovels (one has a T-shaped handle and the other has a wooden pommel and they are apparently used completely differently with different muscle groups involved...)

[@CandidZulu]

One has a D handle you mean? Never tried a shovel with a straight handle, seems akward.

[@Kikilang60]

Yeah, the wife. My wife ask, "What do you need that for?" "Ah, to smooth the wood." I say hesitently. "That's different from the other one how?" "Ah, the other one is a jack plane, it does rougher work. I can't smooth with the Jack plane." "And that's different than the big one?" she asks. "Ah, the big one is flattens the wood." I say. "What's the difference between flatten, and smooth?" It's better if there is no questions.

[@jackjkantrowitz50kantrowit12]

Kiki Lang Most women don’t appreciate the differences between various tools as many men don’t appreciate the differences between fabrics.

[@jameshaulenbeek5931]

@@jackjkantrowitz50kantrowit12 that's a pretty untrue generalization... It depends far more on what the individual's interested in than what their gender is.

[@Steve_1401]

@@jackjkantrowitz50kantrowit12 or shoes....... or handbags :D

[@jackjkantrowitz50kantrowit12]

I admit it was a generalization. There are things that do seem more important to MOST men and those that do seem more important to MOST women.

[@dtwistrewind7361]

@@jackjkantrowitz50kantrowit12 most could just be over 50% or the majority, I think you were correct generalization or not.

[@briantobin3681]

Hi Rex, nice review! I have a couple Japanese pull saws, and love them. Something you may not be aware of, That last large angled tooth at the tip of the saw is a depth guage! While you are cutting with a ryoba, you should work the blade up and down. This will result in a ridge, in the middle of the cut where you can not see it. Kind of like a ^ inside the cut. At the end of your cut, tip the blade down. So that last bit on the end of the blade is parallel to where you want the final depth of your cut. and saw back and forth gently, you will saw away the ridge in the middle of the cut without cutting deeper than you intended! :)

[@jameswhite4709]

Harbor freight has a great Japanese pull saw for around 10 and it works great. I have a decent woodshop on my apartment balcony thanks to your videos and around $75 at Harbor Freight. Working the $30 bench now. You're creative!

[@TheLolkid777]

I have that saw too my only complain t is it's a bit too long what else did you get from harbor freight

[@Montezuma03]

The harbor freight saw is cool, I used it for a few months, but I bought a nicer ryoba on Amazon for 30 bucks and is sooo much nicer. It's a lot thinner and cuts even smoother. You should think about upgrading sometime

[@kenabi]

different sizes for different purposes. the HF one is a larger variant for larger tasks. ultimately you want 3 sizes of the double blade style. the HF would be on the top end of that scale.

[@Dresdentrumpet]

hahaha same here

[@erikgranqvist3680]

Japanese saws was a revelation for my bad shoulders when I tested one something like 5 years sgo.

[@MstrCorrin]

I love my Japanese saw, use it for everything.

[@NotSoCrazyNinja]

I know it's not "proper", but I recently used mine to open an overly packaged item received in the mail. I was sort of in a rush and no knife handy but the saw was right there, so... a couple gentle slices and the package was open (cardboard lol). I'm beginning to think this type of saw has thousands of uses. I've used it so far for cutting branches, some tree trimming, some firewood cutting (very small fire), and of course some woodworking.

[@Oscar4u69]

is it good to make some eggs?

[@mmyr8ado.360]

Get a pair of those and a teppan grill, and you can make teppanyaki in your home.

[@senza4591]

Screws? Nails? Raising your children? Evacuating a burning building? Huh, thats a ton of potential uses.

[@jesseparker8115]

I sawed Phil swift in halve with this Japanese saw and repaired him with flex tape

[@dokidoki1021]

for accuracy, cut a small kerf on all sides, the saw will follow it. thats the japanese way 👍

[@RexKrueger]

I'll keep practicing!

[@MumrikDK]

@Tabourba pulls should come from your back muscles mainly, even when we're talking about a single-handed pull like that.

[@runearmour3942]

thank you sir this solved my problems

[@alterworks7212]

Tabourba bro we get it, you’re threatened that the west’s supposed superiority is being questioned. to be clear, no one cares where their saw comes from as long as it does a good job, and it’s hilarious that you felt a need to counterattack.

[@iIsIrrational]

@@alterworks7212 He wasn't "threatened that the west’s supposed superiority is being questioned". He was simply clarifying a misconception most people had about pull-saws being being an exclusive Japanese invention. He was also elaborating on the differences, advantages vs disadvantages, of pull-saws vs push saw. I found the comment informative. Unlike you who seem to be "threatened" by someone knowing more than you and actually contributing to a discussion.

[@EvenTheDogAgrees]

That always bothered me about saws ever since I was a kid, especially the ones like the Dewalt he shows at around 2:30... When you push on them, they tend to buckle up. It simply makes more sense to cut on the pull stroke rather than the push stroke. It's more accurate, you have more power, and the saw is always under tension and always straight.

[@EvenTheDogAgrees]

@Mike G You can't really lean in if the damn thing keeps bucking up on you though, can you?

[@EvenTheDogAgrees]

@Mike G Well, since I only use saws occasionally, I'm pretty sure that my technique is indeed lacking. I couldn't make a straight cut with hand saws to save my life. That said, physics is physics. A flat sheet under tension will remain straight. A flat sheet under compression will want to wobble or buckle up. If your saw gets stuck while you're pushing on it, especially when you're putting a lot of power behind it, that's exactly what happens: you put the sheet under compression and it buckles up. When the saw cuts on the pulling motion, there's simply no way for that to happen.

[@mrz80]

I took to turning all my hacksaw blades 'round so they cut on the pull stroke, and it's made a world of difference in the ease and control I have cutting metal.

[@arthurrsaker8893]

@@mrz80 What a great idea buddy. Tried it on a projecting half inch carriage bolt a few inches above ground level where the only feasible position is working from directly above. I was able to do the cut without continuously pushing the tip of my hacksaw into the ground.

[@jbelme1]

I’m still using a western imperialist handsaw but I might pick up that Japanese style saw.

[@ChadDidNothingWrong]

Then you'll really like the Japanese Imperialist saw!

[@gontaiyuu]

​@@ChadDidNothingWrong BANZAI

[@alexandergrahamcracker5581]

LOL

[@jimyoung7090]

Welcome to the Ryoba Club, you sound like me after I tried one. I still sound that way 8 years later. Sometimes I grab the ryoba instead of turning on the table saw.

[@billprocter942]

If you're really strapped for money, HF has a Japanese pull saw and gets really good reviews. I have one and it works well. It cost around $10.

[@ToddCarpenterToddPCWV]

I bought a HF pull saw a year ago and still love it.

[@RexKrueger]

I'll have grab one next time I'm there!

[@averagejoe4837]

I have that saw as well. I find it easier to eyeball plumb with than my other saws, therefore I find myself reaching for it much more often. I also lean towards starting and finishing my cuts with the fine toothed edge as its easy to oversaw my stop line using the coarse side, but I just flip the saw over instead of reaching for another tool. Great time saver of a tool.

[@red58impala]

@@RexKrueger I believe the ones at HF are impulse hardened, so in theory should last longer than some of the much nicer Japanese made saws. Check out the pistol gripped pull saw they sell as well. It is very sharp and leaves a nice surface similar to what you showed in your video.

[@grammie5825]

Average Joe v

[@u8qu1tis]

Auto-captions: "Japanese style sauce" Cooking channel maybe?

[@steamr0ll]

Rex, I bought one of these saws after you published this vid and I haven't picked up another saw since. Great recommendation and I must say, you have really inspired me to pursue my interest in woodworking. Just "farting around" with tools in a basic workshop is incredibly satisfying, and your Woodworking For Humans series really spreads that valuable message. Thanks for doing what you do, my dude!

[@spartarticus]

i haven never looked up anything remotely related to woodworking but yt dropping this, now im missing 28$ and have a japanese saw that i will never use

[@garygilbert1440]

I have had 3 or 4. These are absolutely the best at a lot of types of cutting. I love the precision cuts I can make with these, but quite a few of my friends have never used one. It's a shame. Thanks for the video

[@bighands69]

You can get precision with European saws as well but it really is a preference thing. I have noticed that a lot of beginners tend to prefer japanese saws even though I do not think they are any easier to use.

[@kansme]

30 dollar gyokucho 270mm ryoba. Less teeth, very agressive. Made worlds of difference for me for resawing big pieces.

[@crmusicproduction]

agreed, I bought a Gyokucho set, unbelievable quality

[@aaronstorey9712]

can yous get us a link fer that

[@kraven4444]

Right, It's good to have a larger more aggressive one and one you save for finer work.

[@roykale9141]

youtube: you want to see a saw me: noo I'm not interested in saws youtube: click on it or i will me: OK OK OK

[@WeeWeeJumbo]

Roy Kale *I am now very fervently interested in saws

[@th34lch3m1st]

That's the blade I bought two months ago. Last item on amazon Italy, special price of 7.5€ (Vaughan 569-32 250RBD Replacement Blade for Bear Hand Saw with Double Edged Blade, 10-Inch). Now the replacement blade is not available on amazon Italy, but the price has raised to 41,76€, I think because of import taxes and shipment costs. I have made a wooden handle for it, and since then I practically have used just this saw. The cross-cut side is amazing and it cut very thin and straight. It's my first Japanese saw, but the blade seems of good quality to me, especially for the price I paid.

[@RexKrueger]

Agreed!

[@BirdYoumans]

I have the gyokucho version of this. I LOVE it!! You have to get use to not putting pressure on the down stroke but on the pull stroke. But once you get used to that, there's no going back!

[@MrJhonbaker]

Now I understand why I don't care for these style saws - I'm handicapped and am unable to position my body in the optimal way for using the saw. I prefer western saws (mostly western brass backed saws) because I can use my crippleness to my advantage.

[@daynerogers8133]

Hey man I'm stoked to hear you're finding a way. Got some metal plates installed in my dominant arm a few years ago and I've been navigating the trickiness of not having full function. The joy of hobbies like this is in discovering how best to personalise projects and practices.

[@johne7100]

You need to be careful on the return (i.e. push) stroke or you can easily put a nasty kink in the blade. I don't use a ryoba much, but the smaller dozuki is great for slotting fretboards.

[@charadremur333]

I hate kinks. They suck.

[@jeffnolan2021]

My first saw was this exact saw. He's right about an unforgiving rip, but it improves technique and the versatility is unparalleled. The real expense is in Japanese chisels and block planes! They get pricey very quickly, but last forever with proper care. Thanks for the review! Love the channel.

[@andymckenzie8031]

A decent ryoba is absolutely worth the money for a new woodworker. A couple of things to keep an eye on, though: 1) The teeth are impulse hardened, which means you can't sharpen them. You'll probably get a few years out of the saw, and then it will stop cutting well. At that point, you should cut off the teeth and make it into a couple of scrapers. 2) Some of these saws have uneven set, so they'll cut a curved line if you're not paying attention. The one I have right now has just a little bit more set on the right side, but only on the rip cut teeth. So crosscuting (or ripping with the smaller teeth) works great, but long rips tend to curve to the right. That also means I can't use that side of the blade against a flat surface for flush cutting, though the other side works fine. For a $20 tool, though, it's fantastic!

[@DeanTheDoctor]

I would like to add my own tips to yours as well my friend. -Pull saws come in different sizes. The wider/taller our blade, the easier is to maintain a straight cut. The saw in this video is a moderate sized saw. While you can resaw lumber with it, it won't be nearly as effortless to maintain a straight cut as would a saw that was wider/taller. You will save yourself a lot of headache if you use a saw that is appropriately sized for the job. -It will take time and practice to build up the muscles to use the saw well, but once we do, a pull saw can be one of the most versatile tools when it comes to wood working for quick, accurate, reliable, and low waste cuts. (Even more accurate than a budget bandsaw 🌎☀️) -If you are skilled with a rotary tool (with a thin cut off wheel and magnifying glasses,) we can sharpen these blades ourselves if they ever become dull. It takes time, practice, patience, and a steady hand, but it is possible to greatly extend any disposable saw's service life. -If you're not able to find a pull saw/carpentry saw, with a large/wide enough blade for long and accurate rip cuts, a carefully sharpened western saw may provide you one of the best and easy ways to maintain a relatively effortless straight cut. While they have are thicker blades which removes more kerf, they can be much easier for first time users to adopt due to the control that the vertical 'pistol grips' gives us over controlling the orientation of our saw to help keep them level. You're also able to take advantage of the longer length of the blade to guide your cuts as well. -Let the saw do the work. Our best results will always be when we're not tense and overthinking the results of our work. As with any tool that we use, we always get better over time. 😊🌎❤️

[@thomasstuart6861]

I tried to saw with the blade reversed in a hacksaw. I was so impressed I am going to put it in upside down.

[@2tall54]

I have bought not only the ryoba saw, but also the dozuki and kataba. They are well worth it.

[@wrongtown]

I'll second that, love my Japanese saws. I have some lovely old western saws but I pretty much never reach for them anymore.

[@howardhagadorn9443]

I have 4 japanese style saws, I didn't like the ryoba, still too much flex in the plate but I spent a little more and bought a gyochuko dozuki saw that has the rib on the plate like a backsaw and I love it.... mostlly lol It has induction hardened teeth, they are the sharpest thing I've ever encountered on any tool so don't get your fingers too close to them while you're pulling off the guard. It's worse than a paper cut, it will be stinging and itching for weeks. The hardened teeth can't be sharpened so if it ever gets dull, pitch it and buy a replacement blade or make card scrapers out of it. The teeth are also very brittle so they break easily but I've cut a lot of dovetails and I'm still surprised at how fast it cuts every time I use it even missing a tooth or two. If you are interested in the gyochuko saw, shop around, the prices vary wildly. I bought mine on amazon for like 32 bux, but the same saw sells at japan woodworker for 3 times that

[@RexKrueger]

I think this will be my next purchase!

[@GrandmasterGib]

Thanks Rex, I picked up one of these cheap at a yard sale and it's just been hanging in my garage for years. I've never known what to use it for, but now I'm excited to give it a try.

[@nicstroud]

I've been watching youtube videos for ages now and it seems like everyone is using them all of a sudden. I wondered if it wasn't a bit of a fad and if they were a bit of a fashion accesory but now I've seen your video I'm going to give it a go. I had no idea they were finer but your explanation of them being in tension makes perfect sense. Good videos by the way, I never feel alienated. Some videos make me loose interest the minute the $200 plane comes out or the $500 chisel set. Keep up the good work.

[@bigbearnelson]

A lot of people are mentioning the Harbor Freight saw. I started piecing together a woodshop a while back and I saw this style saw all over KZbin so I picked one up from HF. It's seriously one of the best $10 I've spent on tools. I don't do many rip cuts because I'm bad at them but this saw eats up oak, maple, black walnut, basically anything for crosscut breakfast. It really amazes me.

[@ArcaneTinker]

Okay, so that fixes it for me. You're like the 8th rave reviewer of that saw. I've held it in my hands like 3 times and kept putting it back because, how good can a 10 buck saw be? Well, mr. Greg Nelson, you are the last straw on that camel's back. I guess I will buy a 10 dollar pull saw the next time I find myself in a harbor freight.

[@jonc8074]

the ryoba is a good value. better performance than a 15 dollar saw and you get 2 even 3 saws for 30. rip and crosscut also flush cut pegs except in corners. if you have only one wood saw ryoba is a good choice, also if you have a bad back but still want to do some light carpentry it's a good choice.

[@jubilantyogurt]

The ryoba saw type is superior to any western saw IMHO. I always struggled with true finesse with regular saws, but the ryoba just makes it so effing easy to cut accurately.

[@tHaH4x0r]

These kinds of responsive videos and course feedback really make this channel different to all others, and make me realize what an amazing job you are doing. Thanks!

[@RexKrueger]

It's really my pleasure!

[@SheetMonk]

I bought an Irwin of this style saw years ago at Lowe's. It has been my go to saw every time. I have plans to make the low roman bench that you have made and I was wondering how it would work with that bench. I'm glad to see that it all worked out. great review.

[@motomuto3313]

I have 2 Japanese pull saws. I use 1 for fine work and the other to harvest branches while out in the field. I love my Japanese saws.

[@kraven4444]

same

[@davdud101]

I bought a cheap Harbor Freight one and honestly it's been one of my favorite and most frequently-used purchases for hand tools in my shop. Once it dulls out I'll definitely upgrade to something much nicer, as I love the overall function of the pull saw.

[@bighands69]

I have spent thousands on japanese saws and I am not sure it was worth it but I love them. I also have thousand dollar European saws as well. I have my grandfathers dovetail saws and still use them.

[@sidneypenaherrera1412]

I just subscribed because this is the most helpful woodworking channel

[@RexKrueger]

Welcome!

[@therealchris5894]

I subscribed because it's interesting and I know nothing about woodworking

[@willyaffleck7918]

I live in Hawaii,so we have a certain amount of Asian influence in our buildings. As a professional carpenter I tried a Japan style pull saw 30 some yrs ago. Still using them...if it works good/well in my job I use it. Btw, I saw it spelled Ryoba saw yrs ago, and always called it that. The "R" is silent so I think it's called Yoba.

[@stanleydenning]

I love Japanese saws. Paid $ 50.00 US for a nice saw with with rip and crosscut blades. Than they got wet. Runed. Rusted all to hell. Life sucks.

[@mariojimenez691]

With these kind of saws, you can normally replace the blade. Check out if you can get a replacement blade, so you don't pay the full price again.

[@xavier1964]

Not as clumsy or random as a western saw, the Ryoba is a more elegant saw from a more civilized age.

[@micah7492]

@Paul hes quoting obi-wan kenobi

[@christophercollins868]

Epic reference and well used in the context!

[@gnarthdarkanen7464]

Great video and assessment of the Japanese Pull Saws!! My own dubious experience (and a lack of folks around to tell me not to try it) led me to experiment with turning the blades "backwards" in some of my finer scroll and hack-saws... The short short version is "I see some mixed results" BUT... the caveat is between different and "non-traditional" materials and cuts... AND let's face it, I'm no master carpenter. (lolz... clutz) I WILL go out on the limb and express more pleasant surprises than unpleasant disappointments, though. SO if anyone's interested in experimenting... it's an avenue. I see (scrolling comments) that there's some thinking that "pushing" type instruments offer better or more control... BUT in saws (at least) I've personally found exactly the opposite to be true most of the time... including those really tiny damn "burrs" in the scroll-saw frame... ;o)

[@superiorbeing95]

German supermarkets sell awesome versions of these for £6 here in the UK, same but longer blade too.

[@gmodrules123456789]

So THATS why the saw in Ocarina of Time looked so weird.

[@crmusicproduction]

Rex, mate, I bought a Ryoba around 5 years ago and it is only now that is starting to get dull and believe me I have used it a lot! So, just recently I decided to treat myself to a whole set, inc: 2 Ryobas, one 210mm and a 300mm, a Kataba, a Dozuki, and a Kugihiki with an included purpose made bag. Man these are bloomin awesome, I paid £165 and they are made by a company called Gyokucho, they are a premium brand in Japan. Now I have had a taste of these, next on my shopping treat list are a set of Kanna planes. I have found that my western saws have become rusty and obsolete.Check them out, they will take your woodwork to a whole new level. Trust me :-)

[@RexKrueger]

If I ever want to step up, Gyokucho all the way!

[@marcmacialek9250]

“Don’t tell my wife” 😆😆😆. That would make a good t-shirt.

[@mgoohgoo7664]

When you like japanis saws get to diter schmid feine werkzeuge

[@scottsimpey2965]

Great video once again Rex. I have a Japanese pull saw, not the ryoba, that is single sided but has the same style handle as the ryoba. I find that I reach for the pull saw far more often than I do the western style saw that I have unless I just need to a rough piece for something. I find that the pull saw actually cuts faster, maybe just because I’m able to get it started quicker.

[@superlazy3355]

KZbin recommended and I have to say, the algorithm hit the spot with you sir! Superb knowledge and extremely 'listenable' 👍 ✌️ From the UK 🇬🇧 ✌️

[@ga5712]

I love the fact you get that most of us don't have the cash to get anything but the cheap basics 👍

[@robohippy]

I need a bumper sticker that says, "When I die, I hope my wife doesn't sell my tools for what I told her they cost!" Even if I am not married..... I do like the pull saws, and like any tool, there is a learning curve. Have to keep the steering wheel straight and tight, which in this case means your pull....

[@livewiya]

It's hard to get a dedicated rip saw at a beginner's price unless you go Japanese. I recently bought a ryoba (Woodcraft had them on clearance recently) for that purpose. Since I already have a japanese crosscut saw, I plan to take a page from Chris Schwarz's blog and lap the set out of the teeth of my ryoba's crosscut side and have more aggressive flush cut saw. Considering how you and I both seem to favor round through-tenons, I'm sure you'd agree: any way to quickly cut flush is great!

[@RexKrueger]

I do agree!

[@WoodInn]

I've been using the Vaughan Ryoba for many years now. It works great. They sell replacement blades too and the blades are made in Japan. You did not mention that the handles from the two different saws you have are interchangeable.

[@thomasarussellsr]

Yup!

[@pyromedichd1]

I like the Japanese pull saw however comparing that traditional Dewalt handsaw to a quality hand saw is a joke. My dad, now 90 and still going strong, fed his family by being a carpenter. He has several old school quality handsaws that he's used since I was a child. These saws are made with a double taper and the teeth are set and filed for either ripping or crosscutting. Generally speaking you won't find a new tapered saw becasue tapering drives the cost up and many people aren't even aware of the benefits of the taper. Once you use a saw like his that is well maintained you will find that it is nothing like the Dewalt or other cheap traditional handsaws currently manufactured. High quality Disston handsaws are available used on auction sites for as low as $15. The Pre 1955 D23 saws are a good choice. Special vices for filing these saws as well as setting the teeth are also available for low $$.

[@RexKrueger]

Watch my video on the Dewalt. It will clear up much confusion.

[@burgeryoufoundbehindthegrill]

I know it's not exactly a tool, but after seeing you stand on the bench, I'm curious to see what you'd think about Japanese workboots- the Tabi kind. I've noticed a lot of builders and treeworkers wearing then and tried them out. Ive found that working in minimal footwear is better for my back, especially when carrying heavy things, and that boots/shoes like this make it easier to position my self and balance better when working in odd angles or holding things down with my feet. It's like gloves compared to thick mittens.

[@RexKrueger]

They seem like a great idea, but I'm kind of scared to give up my heavy protective boots.

[@blackadder1966]

I just got back from a holiday in Japan, near my hotel i found a small tool store. There was a saw there that had interchangeable handles and blades. Pick from a choice of 4 handle styles and around a dozen blade styles. Handles were from about $20 and blades $10. I was tempted but i need to find a job, holiday was booked before the buisness i was working for closed down.

[@RexKrueger]

We all miss out like that sometimes. Next time!

[@DarknessLPs]

That was one of the first saws I bought after buying a couple american crosscut saws, I didn't really like the push cut because I couldn't stop the saw from bending on itself so I figured I'd try the Japanese style. I really prefer the pull cut method and I feel like it works better for me than a push cut ever will.

[@RexKrueger]

I still bend it sometimes, but I'm really enjoying it.

[@AFCAWorldBodybuildingArchive]

Japanese sauce is delicious 💪

[@mrpdc86]

What I like about Rex's video's: his lines sound scripted, but it works :) keep it up, I'm learning a lot!

[@bbrachman]

This is the type of saw I use most of the time for small cuts. It has another benefit. For us who need training wheels, it works great with a magnetic saw guide to start a cut.

[@MikkosFree]

Very true. I too started with a magnetic guide, then moved on to using the reflection as a guide. These days im so used to it i rarely need a guide anymore.

[@peterinbrat]

Japanese wooden sledgehammers are also nice. *Kizuchi*

[@renemedcraft3095]

I bought one from Lidl the other day and after seeing your video on how to use it I am more than happy with it not that I use it all the time, thanks.

[@nate6692]

I've always wondered - why do western saws cut on the push? Is it a different philosophy or did they just get it wrong? It seems pretty obvious to me that it would keep the blade straighter during cut.

[@RexKrueger]

Push saws work great. Just a different method.

[@JeremyB8419]

It depends on how much upper body strength you have. The Japanese saws are better if you don’t have a lot of strength, but the Western style ones are better if you do. The added friction of pushing can make the cutting slower or quicker depending on how much upper body strength you have.

[@jlf1430]

Now that you've ventured into the saw, try a few of the chisels.... Excellent video, Thanks...

[@RexKrueger]

I have one Japanese chisel. It's old and pretty impressive.

[@eriktorp-olsen1706]

A regular western style saw will flex and bow when pushed. How can you saw straight with those? A japanese pull-saw will straighten out when pulled. -How can you be without one?

[@bighands69]

+Erik Torp-Olsen Japanese saws can do the same on the pull. It really depends on your technique. Western blades are usually sturdier. Japanese blades tend to be thinner and it all really depends on your technique. It is like saying sugar is nicer than salt because it is sweeter.

[@fisharmor]

I'm on my second Gyokucho from Amazon and they come in under $20. I prefer ryoba for dovetailing. The first one lasted nearly 3 years and made about four dozen small dovetail boxes, four dovetailed carcasses, about a dozen large drawer bodies, and uncounted flush cuts of pegs and other random cuts. The only reason I'm on my second is because the first one got a kink in it, and I replaced it and kept it as a beater, and that really didn't last very long. Once I stopped treating it like a delicate tool it developed a crack near the handle. I had a couple of those Shark brand saws in my younger days and they worked ok too - they were generally thicker plates. I have had one of the HF saws too and like almost everything else at HF, they got the general idea but it's definitely not in the same class. The real deal is so little extra money that buying HF here doesn't make any sense.

[@lennethwemyss3713]

If you get a small kink, you can try to fix it. You need a small hammer (half pound or less) and a totally flat surface. Lay the blade flat on the palm of your hand, and look from the handle to the end keeping your eyes level as close as possible to the handle level. Look carefully and flip the blade and check again. Once you got a grasp of the kink size and location, lay the blade on the flat surface and start tapping from the edges of the kink to the center. Tap lightly, as when you try to fix a plane iron. Get a tapping around the outer layer of the kink and watch again. If the kink starts to flatten, go another round. If the kink splits in two or goes the other way around, you are tapping too hard/getting to the center too fast. Heating the blade in hot water or leaving it in the scorching sun before hammering relaxes the metal a little (just wipe bone dry and oil immediately after finishing the job) Keep away the cheapest/first kinking blade to practice, once you get the gist of it your saw will last longer. Wobble gently a new saw as soon as you get it and try to remember the sound it makes: as soon as a kink gets into it, the sound will actually change slightly and you will know the blade is kinked even without looking at it.

[@tylerkrug7719]

The bear saw is made in Japan also, so technically, I guess it's a Japanese saw also, lol. I have a bear saw, and I really like it, I haven't used it too much, but it cuts great, good precision

[@LoveSoLost]

Dude... you're a bald badass. Thanks for the damn good insight.

[@thomasarussellsr]

Yeah, but what's with the "Uncle Fester" dark circles around his eyes? He always looks so exhausted.

[@caspianx67]

Woodcraft usually has one of their Japanese saws on sale every month. It's different each month, so watch the sale flyers to see which one(s) are available this month. Sale is usually 40-60% off retail, reducing the saws from $50 to between $20-30. There is also a Japanese back-saw called a Dozuki that adds a folded metal spine on one side -- this extra stiffness, in conjunction with extra fine teeth makes for excellent dovetail cuts right off the saw. Disclaimer: our wood turning club meets at a local Woodcraft, so I see the sale items every month. Other than that, I'm not affiliated with Woodcraft in any way.

[@kamleo1685]

Rex, I would not start cuts by pinching the blade from underneath. It is so easy to cut yourself with those extremely sharp blades. Use one hand to pull and the thumb of your other hand to act as a fence and steady the blade. Keeping both hands on the saw's handle is a good idea when you don't need to steady and guide the blade. Unlike western saws, you also need to keep your hand and other body parts away from the top of the saw.

[@RexKrueger]

Good tips!

[@evilcanofdrpepper]

What about trying to make some sort of hybrid Eastern/Western plane with a blade?

[@RexKrueger]

It's certainly an interesting idea!

[@captainspirou]

Thanks for doing this review. It's really helpful. Is this only good for solid wood? Can this be used for plywood or MDF?

[@RexKrueger]

You can do MDF, no problem. Plywood will dull it a bit faster. For a good plywood saw, check out the dewalt saw I reveiwed a few weeks ago.

[@Giganfan2k1]

It is okay to use with MDF.

[@denniswalsh8476]

Absolutely... didn't get one until 7-8 years ago and was MORE than pleasantly surprised. Just don't drop through the cut onto the bench or worse, the vise itself. The teeth are so small and thin and that'll ruin a few (bend or actually break off). So.... I'm on my second (or third?) one, but still worth it. PS, using a bench vise, a folded up cloth (thick) under the saw might be helpful preventing tooth damage if the saw drops through the cut.

[@RexKrueger]

I admit, tooth damage is a problem.

[@denniswalsh8476]

@@RexKrueger Still a great tool, fragile teeth. My first Stanley ricocheted of the vise and destroyed about 5 teeth. I have a "spare" harbor freight model and my (second) Stanley. I try to be more careful now. If I ruined the Stanley, I'd be off to buy another pretty quickly. Tools get worn out and sometimes damaged, fact of life.

[@nachiketmhatre7411]

Pulling a saw is definitely better from the physics and ergonomics perspective. The Japanese got it right.

[@RexKrueger]

That very well might be true!

[@MikkosFree]

Not to mention that height plays an important role. When working on temples, the Japanese often found themselves working on beams higher than themselves and pulling was the only way to get leverage to make that cut.

[@nachiketmhatre7411]

@@MikkosFree I would assume they did all the cutting before mounting the work on temples.

[@bighands69]

+Nachitket Mhartre It is myth that Japanese saws are better even though I prefer the feeling of them myself.

[@thomasarussellsr]

"Better" is a personal perspective/opinion. I find that my saw sharpening skills for push saws is lacking, so a 'bind and bend' with a push saw is quite likely and frustrating. A pull saw has only kinked on me once when I tried to push it back into the kerf and some tension had closed up the kerf.

[@kevinm.1698]

Do you have a link for the Ryoba? I couldn't find it at Amazon or is it also called the Vaughan BS250D Double Edged Bear Saw Handsaw,

[@RexKrueger]

Not to be a smart-ass, but did you look right there in the description? 3rd line.

[@kevinm.1698]

@@RexKrueger Thanks. Was looking for Ryoba in the description which was missing.

[@Larry]

So, the big question, why have they never taken off in the West?

[@kraven4444]

Cause people get comfortable with what they know and unless they go looking for new things or accidentally hear about them, they'll just use the same tools. Which is fine i guess. Personal preference.

[@ChadDidNothingWrong]

Pull saws are more difficult to use, cut slower, and damage more easily. These are big factors for non-professionals (who buy most of the saws you or I ever see). This goes double for a Japanese-type. In professional carpentry though, pull saws, in general at least are very common.

[@theothertonydutch]

That question is basically answered at the start of the video.

[@DaroriDerEinzige]

Ever heard the story of stirrups? Realizing that Humanity sat for ~1000 years on Horses, with Sattles but no stirrups should answer your question. Or Hex-Plus Keys.

[@asailijhijr]

What would you do if a saw making company supported you on Patreon?

[@RexKrueger]

I don't know. It's never come up.

[@DwightMS1]

Rex, when you describe the benefits of that saw, push saws sound like a stupid idea. You've inspired me. I'm buying one, then I'll practice with it as I'd practice a musical instrument, until I can follow a line without wavering.

[@RexKrueger]

Push saws do have their place. I still reach for mine for big cuts, where they're more aggressive. But I do find this pull saw ideal for 80% of bench work.

[@robertberger8642]

@@RexKrueger With all if your extremely positive statements about the ryoba, why don’t we see you using it in your more recent videos? Does it have a shortcoming that makes western-style saws better for you? (Sorry if you’ve already answered this elsewhere. I looked, but couldn’t find a comment or explanation from you about this.) Thanks! As always, this was a great video.

[@kght222]

4:21 the bear saw can be better for deep miters, keep in mind that it doesn't have a curf on the back of the blade.

[@neil2252]

Nice video with no filler or BS. This is the first time I have seen one of your videos and you put the saw you were testing over very clearly so that even a complete amateur like myself could understand and not feel daunted by the thought of trying it. Subscribed . :)

[@lukewarmwater6412]

yes! absolutely!! they are great for pruning trees and scores of other jobs around the house!!

[@tommanseau6277]

Been a fan of Japanese hand saws since I saw one. One additional method for cutting is sitting or kneeling of floor/ground and pulling down. This keeps the blade straight. The ryoba is designed as you state for 2 hands. If you use 1 hand it is more likely to start off angle. The cons are that because the teeth are hardened they can be brittle. Seems obvious, but don't try and cut metal with them. Someone grabbed my saw and broke several teeth off not being careful. That said, the solution was buy a blade since the handle is reusable. I still own this saw and it's great.

[@brianfoley4328]

What an interesting video....I'm no great woodworker, in fact I suck at it...but I'm getting better and I'm going to buy one of these before I'm completely addicted to traditional Western push saw...Thanks.

[@MorgenPeschke]

On a related note, I got a Japanese plane because it was less expensive than the western planes I could easily get my hands on. How does the $30 bench workholding features work with a plane that works on the pull stroke?

[@RexKrueger]

It would work fine, although you might add a planing stop. Which Japanese plane did you get? I'm interested in getting one.

[@MorgenPeschke]

@@RexKrueger It's been a while, but I believe it's this one: www.amazon.com/dp/B0026FBGR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_RZVZCb20GHMCV The size is right, and the price is really close to what I remember. It's a good little plane, though I'll need to get a longer one at some point to make smoothing easier.

[@blakeumthun8128]

I ABSOLUTELY LOVE MY RYOBA!!!!! They are cheap (even the "expensive" gyokucho's) and super easy to use. I would recommend that every newbie get one or more. Even experienced woodworkers that have never used the Japanese style saws, will find them a dream to work with. My western saws just sit there wondering if they'll ever be used again.

[@johnhammer9716]

I picked up an Irwin version at a big box store awhile back. I showed it to my dad last time he was here and it was all he used the rest of his visit. I was looking at tools on Amazon one day and a Japanese version by Suizan came up. Yes, I already had one, but I wondered if this one was even better. It cost me about $9 more than I paid for the one in the big box. It's slightly shorter in the blade and slightly longer in the handle. The teeth per inch and cut look the same, but the blade might be a little thinner. How does it compare? That one I got from the big box now does an excellent job trimming branches in my backyard, and, if I damage it, I'll just cut it up and use parts of it to make a kerfing plane.

[@Feralhyena]

I've had one for about 20 years. They are very good, but, and I don't know if this has been improved later in the production run, that lock button, over time, can become brittle and eventually shatter. The crosscut teeth are marginally less fragile than your typical hardpoint saw. but they do not handle harsh use. But still, it's a great tool.

[@jgzifly1045]

My experience with both Japanese and US pull saws left the japanese version the sharpest and held it edge the longest. I was cutting hard woods with grain and across grain with the Japanese version. The cut needed no planing. It was extreemly smooth. Years ago when building RC Planes, I used it to cut the curve on wing tips to match the curve of the wing. The saw cut the perfect curve when bent.

[@btolton3419]

I got this exact same saw 2 years ago, and I can't remember picking up my back-saw or rip saw since. this, plus a coping saw does it all for me now for small stuff.

[@RexKrueger]

I need to build a turning saw. I just don't like coping saws.

[@mikegraham7078]

I've had a reasonably high-end dozuki for years. I bought it to try it out, but I very rarely use it. There are two fundamental problems with pull-saws, and one problem that is a personal preference thing. The first fundamental problem is that when you use a pull-saw the sawdust and torn fibres pull back and obscure your cut-line. That sucks. The second fundamental problem is that these saws are extremely difficult to sharpen, which is a particular problem if you work with hard western timber, which the Japanese saws weren't designed to deal with. Losing teeth on your pull-saw when hitting a knot is a common enough occurrence to be worth mentioning. The personal preference problem is just that I don't like the broom-handle grip. I don't like "gent's saws" for the same reason.

[@RexKrueger]

I prefer Western saws, too. But I've never found a Western joinery saw that offers this kind of value.

[@mikegraham7078]

@@RexKrueger - A long time ago when I was darker of hair and slighter of build, I once spent half an hour converting a really crappy Crown gent's saw (I know, I just finished saying I don't like that handle, but still...) into a seriously decent dovetail saw. That saw cost me virtually nothing. It was scrap. My sunk cost was the file I used to re-shape the teeth to rip cut. Not counting my time, that saw cost me around $3, and that amount left me with the ability to re-sharpen it for decades. I get your point - honestly, I do. Not everybody is willing to risk trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, but after it was complete that crap saw cut laser-straight and fast with a tight kerf, and it was almost (but not quite) as good as my hand-made custom dovetail saw which I still treasure. Anyway, I thought I'd mention it since you went to the trouble of building your own bevel-up jack plane, so I thought that saw refurbishment might be a viable video option for your channel.

[@RexKrueger]

I've done that, too! My old gents saw still cuts straight and it cost...$3! For this channel, i stick to tools on the internet that anyone can buy. If you live where old tools are cheap (like I do) then you're lucky. Most people are limited to what they can get on Amazon.

[@219garry]

In Japan the hand can be used as a knife

[@shoofle]

Speaking as someone relatively new to hand tool woodworking, I've always been pretty baffled by the western insistence on push tools. Having the blade in tension just seems so much better for accuracy!

[@sritchie1272]

When you push the tool you have more control over the direction it’s going

[@LieutenantSteel]

@@sritchie1272 Rex says in the video that when the Japanese saw is in a cut you almost can't change it the direction it's going; as a beginner woodworker Western saws (mortice and tenon or panel saws are the ones I use the most) almost always curve to one side if I'm not paying complete attention. I'd like to get one of these Japanese Ryobis so I can try it out and see if I can be more accurate with it; I feel like it will be better.

[@RexKrueger]

I think both Western and Japanese tools can be equally accurate, but my experience tells me that Japanese saws are a little easier to start with..

[@thomasarussellsr]

@@LieutenantSteel if your saw consistently drifts to the same side, your tooth set is more on the opposite side than the side it drifts to. Or your technique is off a little. Get a log dowel, look in a mirror, and operate the dowel like your sawing. If the dowel tips to one side mkre than the other, it's your technique, if it stays straight without forcing it to mentally, the set is off on the saw.

[@mcdon2401]

Used one years ago, was very impressed with it until an accident rendered it useless... Finally got around to getting a replacement, and remembered why I loved it in the first place :-)

[@NotSoCrazyNinja]

If/When mine breaks, I plan to have it replaced ASAP.

[@gchengrpt]

I would be curious as to how you do with the Japanese pull saw over time. I personally prefer Japanese pull saws. I have 3 of them for dovetailing, ripping, cross cutting, and a thicker one for cutting down stock. I could never cut straight with Western saws.

[@billietyree6139]

I have a double sided pull saw like the one he demonstrated and am using it to cut spruce wood in sizes from 3 inch by 3/4 inch down to 1/4 by 1/2 inch. I have found that by letting the weight of the blade do the cutting I get smooth and splinter free cuts. The greatest thing about the saw, I think, is the control you have.

[@tonysheehan7766]

Funny, I have recently switched back to push saws for joinery having used only Japanese saws for the past 23 years and it has been a revelation! Will keep my big 3.5 tpi ryoba for ripping large boards for the time being tho'