Should You Wrap Outlets In Electrical Tape?

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

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[@chrisgraham2904]

I do wrap wire nuts with electrical tape, two or three turns, more for the purpose of weather proofing or if a roof or appliance leak were to make it's way down inside a wall. For this reason, I always position the wire nuts inside the box with the cap facing up so that they could never collect water. Your video demonstration wire nut was also wrapped anti-clockwise which can unscrew the wire nut as the tape shinks. Always wrap the wire nut clockwise, the same way that you tighten it.

[@rolandaber5322]

Totally agree for the weather protection aspect. I live in Costa Rica right of the ocean and corrosion from Salt air and 95% humidity is a real issue!

[@hawkdaddy64]

My take: I don't wrap them unless the gang box is metal.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

I am the same, thanks for the feedback!

[@ThatToast]

Idk why but the metal boxes in my 1960s built home dont seem to be conductive. I touched the two screws of a live light switch to the metal box and the light didnt turn on, then I flip the switch and the lights on.

[@KC9UDX]

@@ThatToast was it grounded when you did that?

[@ThatToast]

@@KC9UDX ungrounded light switch and ungrounded box, they used the old 2 wire snakeskin in the 60s. I would think touching the box to the two screws would be the same as turning the light switch on right?

[@KC9UDX]

@@ThatToast well, it's supposed to be grounded unless you took the MC out of the clamp.* But all bets are off on something that old. The thing is though, that if it is grounded, depending on resistances, you could be sending enough current to ground that the lamp isn't getting enough to turn on. The other possibilities are the box - is anodised aluminum - is galvanised steel that is very corroded (might appear whitish) - has a lacquer or enamel coating to keep it from rusting *Is it MC (commonly also called BX, or AC)? MC has an aluminum spiral outer casing. The purpose of that is twofold: for protection from animals or nails, and for grounding. When installed correctly with proper clamps, it is connected to a metal box on both ends. One should be grounded by other means; either metal raceway or MC to another grounded box, or by a grounding conductor. That way both boxes, and the MC casing all are grounded. Or, is it NM, also called Romex™, or some other kind of insulated cable?

[@malikto1]

I always do. Especially a good idea with metal boxes. Not a code requirement, just a personal preference.

[@normrodriguez9306]

The vote doesn't matter, it only takes 30 seconds to wrap, ... the metal box isn't an issue as much as the ground wire possibly contacting a terminal after pushing the outlet into the box.

[@m.k.899]

It's common knowledge to just check if the ground wire is touching any of the terminals when putting on the Faceplate

[@Akhazmat907]

I been wireing for 20 years and never wrapped the outlet. Its a waste of tape, no need to do it, unless your ocd.

[@malikto1]

OCD it is.

[@zinsco]

It’s not a code requirement for a reason. If it was necessary it would be a code. It is a completely useless practice.

[@cliff8101]

The master electrician that taught me how to wire receptacles told me to always do it, Roger was a pretty good dude.

[@inklingsofgod]

NECA NEIS 130 5.3 Conductors (L) states "DO NOT wrap electrical tape around wiring device terminals. Taping wiring device terminals will prevent heat dissipation from the wiring device." National Electrical Contractors Association National Electrical Industry Standards

[@cliff8101]

@@inklingsofgod Good to know now granted this was 20 years ago and at the time old Roger had been electrician for probably 40 years

[@beinghuman3225]

There is no requirement in the NEC or elsewhere that requires any device to be wrapped in tape before installation, but the practice of wrapping devices in tape has been around for a long time. I have been questioned about this practice on many occasions. One justification is that taping devices is necessary because the receptacles/switches will be energized before the finish plates are installed or the tape allows for the removal or replacement of the device while energized. Devices should not be energized before the device cover plates are installed. To do so with standard type screw-terminal devices means there are exposed energized parts creating multiple problems.
 The NEC requires cover plates to be installed on completed installations; see sections 110.3(B) and 314.25.
 However, the practice of energizing receptacles and switches before the application of cover plates is quite common in construction as a job nears completion. As the temporary power is removed, it is typical to energize newly installed branch circuits for temporary power. In many cases, the permanent cover plates are not yet installed due to wall finishes, such as paint or wallpaper, that are incomplete. Energizing these receptacles is a violation of the NEC as well as Occupational Safety and Health Administration standards. See 29 CFR 1926.416.
 Where there is a need to energize permanent branch circuits for temporary power, temporary plastic cover plates should be applied to comply with the NEC and to ensure there are no exposed energized parts. The practice of removing or installing devices while energized would only be recognized as “justified energized work” where de-energizing the circuit would create “additional hazards or increased risk.” See NFPA 70E 130.2(A)(1). Removal while energized would require application of all the safe work practices rules in Chapter 1 of NFPA 70E.

[@censoredsnake]

Roger From metro electric.

[@cliff8101]

@@censoredsnake he was QA I had at Wachter back in my data cabling days

[@danej7335]

generally yes, I have been advised that in wet/damp locations(especially docks /marinas) that the tape may allow condensation to collect and not dry out causing corrosion, additionally wirenuts should be installed "pointing up" so that condensation/moisture will not collect in them.

[@justm1ke]

As I commented earlier, I use butyl rubber to "stuff"wire nuts in areas where they might be exposed to moisture. It pushes in easily and a couple of tape wraps secure it forever.

[@hootinouts]

Dane, while I am not a professional, I have always pointed the wire nuts up when I've wired up outside lights where moisture could collect and find its way into the copper connections leadign to corrosion. A lot of this is common sense; however, that is in short order these days.

[@CL-ty6wp]

@@justm1ke Solder and shrink wrap

[@williameisenberg1999]

I always wrap Electrical outlets in a metal box . Sometimes in a plastic box if it’s a tight fit .

[@codyhughes2591]

I am glad that you actually listen to your viewers and do videos on the things they tell you to update everyone. Excellent channel thankyou!

[@MrKeith5021]

I use tape on wire nuts only when the they are subject to a lot of vibration. Such as motors. The pull test should always be done before the tape is applied.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Makes sense to me, thanks for the feedback and wire nut example 👍

[@jeanjean9343]

I was coming to say the same thing. 25 years in Heavy Industry Electrical, we used only Stranded Wire. Though they could be twisted, most often they were just stripped, held tightly together, wire nut applied, each wire tug tested, then taped in a manner that would tighten the wire nut initially. The tape was only to prevent the wire nut backing off on high vibration.

[@daijoubu4529]

In that case why not use a crimp connector instead...

[@johnqpublic9074]

Use a real marette connector. They are the vibration resistant wire nuts that utilize an internal sleeve and set screw, specifically for this.

[@douglas60040]

I also occasionally wrap wire nuts...I test the connection and wrap, starting on the nut and then the wires in the direction so that if the tape were to shrink, it would only tighten the connector more.

[@Rickyboy707]

I wish this information was available 40 years ago when I was working on my 100 year old house. I thought I was doing everything right when working on outlets, using wire nuts, tape, etc. Fortunately I only did small repairs around the house and never had any problems. I DID, however, always wrap outlets with electrical tape. If I still owned that house I'd go around and fix my previous repairs. I've been watching your videos for a year or so now and find them invaluable. -->Ric

[@george420]

Great advice about not stretching the end when wrapping the outlet. All the outlets I've seen that were wrapped, have been stretched to tear off causing it to do adzactly what you said would happen. Started to unravel over time.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback George 👍

[@zachfoss4152]

I work commercial/residential and I absolutely never tape outlets. Gotta keep the service guy busy with easy calls, I like him. (Please note sarcasm, I use my discretion on a box-by-box basis)

[@SavedByFaithInJesus]

When playing the game Operation, I tape the tweezers.

[@802Garage]

That's cheating!

[@MMGJ10]

My kids just take out the batteries

[@SSingh-nr8qz]

Big brain tactics.

[@heronimousbrapson863]

😂😂😂😂

[@awickedtribe]

Safety First!

[@ddischiave]

I was born into a family of electricians/electrical inspectors, and was taught to always use pigtails, tighten all unused screws all the way in, then tape both the wirenuts and around the receptacles and the switches. Also, to doggy-ear the end of the tape for easy removal if needed.

[@rabelingoodstanding2628]

we call the doggie ears a gentleman's collar and it shows consideration for the next guy.

[@joshpeets3951]

I follow those same practices also. I always forget to leave a tail on the tape, then fight with it when it needs to be removed!

[@brye687]

@@rabelingoodstanding2628 I always called the extra fold of tape a "tape flap" I like "gentleman's collar" better, sounds much more sophisticated!

[@finscreenname]

Didnt do the ear before, will now.

[@gophersgirl]

You forgot on outside devices always have the marrets pointing up...

[@lightwalker222]

I work at a hardware store with a retired Master Electrician and I asked him about this topic recently. His opinion was that the only reasons to use electrical tape on a wire nut were if you were not sure that it was secure, or that there was exposed copper outside of the wire nut. In either case, you need to reapply the wire nut correctly. When he sees tape on a wire nut, it makes him nervous because it tells him the last person to work on it was not confident in their own ability to do a good job. Same goes for outlets. If your outlets are installed such that it's possible to short circuit the hot terminals, then you need to rewire it, possibly trimming excess neutral or ground wires. There's no reason they should be close enough to contact the hot terminal. What he told me boils down to this: applying the electrical tape is useless when the work has been done right, and if you are OK with using a stopgap measure to cover an easily fixable mistake, you should not be working on electrical systems.

[@diy-aholic6501]

Wirenuts (tradename) have springs that are tapered and grab, primarily, at the top. Half twist and many come right off. Tape these to prevent easy fall off if vibrstion is a concern. Other spring connectors (trsdensme wingnut or scotchloks) have springs shaped more like an hour glass and grab further down the twisted conductors, vs the tip. . Hence several twists required to remove them. I tape wirenuts and find no need to tape wingnuts if wire insulation sticks into the connector's skirt as they should (no exposed copper.) If copper shows out the bottom of ANY connector then it was installed incorrectly!

[@lightwalker222]

@WAYNE Picnot Yes, 12 gauge wire will support a 20 amp circuit according to the National Electrical Code. Make sure that your circuit breaker is 20 amps, or else a 20A outlet won't do you any good.

[@lightwalker222]

@WAYNE Picnot Good stuff. If you work inside the breaker panel, make sure you stay clear of the main lugs (google what they are if you don't know). They will be live whether or not the main breaker is off.

[@1pcfred]

If I have to use the butt end of a screwdriver to pack everything into a box I'll tape it all up good first. Because once I get it all jammed in there I do not want to have to take it apart again.

[@johndorian4078]

I've been told electrical tape is good for anything that vibrates. Such as a fan or a washing machine. Just for a little added protection from the vibration causing it to come loose..........

[@bigone4311]

As a steel mill electrician, I know that electrical boxes, conduit, brackets that hold them, etc. tend to break away or rot away TO NOTHING over time in the wet & corrosive environment of a pickler or blast furnace. I've seen too many examples of electrical parts or light fixtures that end up hanging BY THE WIRES. I plan for that by tightly taping a few inches of the wires and then taping the nut in the same direction i tightened it, to keep the nut from ever falling off. Those bare connections will cause short circuits & blown fuses.

[@PatrickKQ4HBD]

Anywhere a layman might tinker with a switch or outlet and touch a bare screw sometime later, I wrap it up. This way, nobody's going to get hurt later because of what I chose not to do today.

[@PatrickKQ4HBD]

@@mrobvious5892 *Should*, but didn't, and he doesn't know how much pain I saved him.

[@peterhorsley8619]

S

[@tastytherrien5106]

If a laymen is working on their outlets live then maybe a 120 volt wack is what they deserve.

[@7hefoxsin908]

5 years electrical in commercial and residential here. In my experience I’ve only taped plugs/switches/GFI’s that will be inserted into metal cut-in boxes since they’re more narrow in width than your standard rough in plaster rings on 4” square boxes. Never taped on residential. I’ve also never had to tape around wire nuts at a tap either.

[@A3Kr0n]

I worked with an electrician years ago and what he told me is to pre-twist and trim the wires with the lineman's pliers before twisting on the wire nut and it was code to use electrical tape to keep the nut on, but you need to wrap it between the legs, not just around and around. He never mentioned wrapping fixtures with tape and we didn't do it.

[@illestofdemall13]

It is not code to wrap wires or wire nuts with tape.

[@mgjk]

I don't remember why, but I twist the wires together thoroughly, trim any unevenness, then apply the marrette. Only limit on twisting is to be sure not to fatigue the copper or reduce the effective gauge of wire. It's been a long time since I did this stuff. If there was *any* exposed wire at the bottom of the marrette, I would trim the wires and re-apply. Electrical tape shouldn't be necessary and messes up inspection... but other than that, no harm.

[@truthsmiles]

Same. I make the wire connection just like this and they would pass the pull test without a wire nut at all. I was also taught that if taping the nut seems necessary, to wrap it “clockwise” so that the tension from the stretched tape wants to make the nut tighter. If you wrap it backwards it could actually loosen the nut.

[@finscreenname]

Learned to wrap them on This Old House 35 years ago. Always have.

[@mrnapolean1]

I only wrap the outlets and switches if the housing box is metal (or another conductive material)

[@christheother9088]

I always taped wirenuts in busy boxes where connections were going to move against each other when everything got pushed back in. Also always taped them on ceiling fans which would vibrate. If there was tons of room in the box I was confident the connections wouldn't be rolled against each other I probably wouldn't tape.

[@halfunderburk6908]

Depends on where you live some building inspectors say no more fuel for a fire even if they just melt. Why fuel the fire!

[@garethblake3941]

I still amazed that the manufacturers of receptacle have not over the course of time improved the situation by providing shrouded insulated connections. Keep up the good advice and stay safe.

[@cndjonno]

Additional tip, the tape glue doesn't stick to the face as well as the glue to glue does, so for a longer holder if you make a piece slight larger than the circumference join the two ends glue to glue with some overlap then use the overlap to stick it down it will hold amazingly well and look good. Learned hat on a site wrapping 600V cabling.

[@mmercier0921]

When I was a carpenter doing renovations, we taped every outlet and switch we replaced or opened. Same with the wire nuts.

[@TheRebelyell1986]

If devices needed to be wrapped in electrical tape it would be in the NEC code book by now. There is a code for how many wires are aloud for a certain size box. Also workmanship is key! In my opinion, if you have neat work you should never need to wrap tape around your devices. And for gods sake stop using the push in method on devices and if you have an unused terminal screw, THEN SCREW IT IN SO IT DOES’NT STICK OUT!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Good advice, thanks Joel.

[@jimcampbell8061]

True.but for those inclined to do it anyhow, why not use duct tape on the inner surface of the box ?

[@embracethesuck1041]

@@jimcampbell8061 Duct tape is never an appropriate alternative to electrical tape for electrical insulation. "What makes electrical tape different from other adhesive tapes? - Tape University™" tapeuniversity.com/industry/building-construction/electrical/what-makes-electrical-tape-different-from-other-adhesive-tapes/

[@jimcampbell8061]

@@embracethesuck1041 I get that but since taping is redundant anyhow a layer of duct tape on the inner surface of the metal box will adhere better and does no harm.The question was to keep terminals from touching the sides of the box,which is not a problem but some people are uneasy despite assurances.Taping is for those who feel uncomfortable

[@MonkeyJedi99]

@Dev JB Just slather everything with a thick layer of Flex Seal liquid! Then you'll never be able to find the faults, but they WILL be watertight!

[@StevePatak]

Definitely wrap devices in metal boxes and definitely in a multi gang box. I just can't get over a hot terminal for one device being so near to a ground terminal of an adjacent device without insulation.

[@paulpeterson8952]

@@Joe-by8jh when you plug things in and out the outlets could move

[@paulpeterson8952]

@@Joe-by8jh Damn, I knew those screws went somewhere!

[@Tony-dx3eo]

My thoughts exactly 🙌🏻

[@Th3Su8]

I do whatever my little heart desires. Generally though I do wrap my outlets and switches, just because that is the way I have done them for years. As to the wire nuts... I hate seeing electrical tape on them. It does nothing but make troubleshooting more of a pain in the rear. Side note: I was trained with the thinking that the wire nuts are not to make the connection but to protect the connection. Twist your wires together, test to see if there is anything loose, trim if necessary, then put on the wire nut.

[@jeremiahbrown9328]

Spot on. Nothing worse than trying to troubleshoot a live multi branch with tape on the neutral. Very risky

[@railroad9000]

Always make a good mechanical connection first, then wire nut or solder and shrink wrap as needed

[@williameisenberg1999]

100 Percent agree !! A little extra time will save a future call back .

[@NackDSP]

I like your thoughts on this. The electrical guru I used to work with that helped me with a connector design told me metal contacts only work if the pressure holding them together exceeds atmospheric pressure. The idea being oxygen won't get into the contact area if the surfaces are pressed together with higher than 32 psi. So I like the idea of twisting first, but I believe the purpose of the wire nut is to compress the wires together and hold them under pressure to assure a good oxygen free contact over time. Pull off a 30 year old wire nut and untwist the wires. If it was done properly the contacting surfaces will be shiny while the other surfaces are oxidized. Without a wire nut, a wire wrapped very tightly around the bunch could maintain the pressure is applied correctly. There's the two cents you didn't ask for. Ha

[@williameisenberg1999]

@@NackDSP I never had any problems with oxidation especially when both wires are copper . The only time I’ve seen this problem was when one wire is copper the other was aluminum that was years ago when copper prices shot through the roof . I applied Penitrox worked pretty well , but messy !

[@jeanjean9343]

Scotch 33+, definitely. Cold weather performance, stretches without breaking. We used High Voltage Tapes where appropriate, 1000V per 1/2 overlap. So you wrap to the voltage and quality of the job, then some. But Scotch 33+ is good for 600V, no matter how much you overlap. 600v Max. The loose end when applying tape as you demonstrated prevents "flagging", according to the vendor, that tendency for the tape to start to pull off, doing as you demonstrated should prevent that. Do Electrical Inspectors support taping, I read they didn't since they can't visually inspect?

[@MMGJ10]

I wrap mine in fruit by the foot. It works fairly well as an insulator and it's tasty.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Nooooo, should be a sin wasting fruit by the foot like that 😂

[@Tie509]

Is that UL approved?

[@ROGER2095]

100% of mice approve this method.

[@nenemalo2813]

🤣🤣🤣 ALV

[@muteblocallowsnoisefreedea7412]

Wow..

[@ElErizoSombra]

Military electrician of 10 years. I have been shocked more times than shot at. Wrap the receptacles. Its a couple seconds more and can save you from looking silly. Remember that its for your safety, and when it comes to safety im looking out for number 1 (me).

[@amyreynolds3619]

I agree with you. We did that on the submarines

[@PatrickKQ4HBD]

One vet to another, thanks for your service. I wish we'd had one of you guys in Iraq! They gave us a big generator and a pallet of wire and said have fun figuring it out. It's a wonder nobody got killed, but we kept the light on. Now I've been trained, and I look back and just say thanks.

[@timlincoln2246]

I agree. No shortcuts in safety, but there are others that would argue why their way is ok when it takes only 10 seconds and 10 cents to prevent a possible electrical shock.

[@airgliderz]

"No shortcuts on safety" actually means: Always LOTO power source to receptacle OFF 1st, then allways test for power 1ST with live dead live (LDL) on receptical before touching receptacle for removal/service to protect yourself. If you have work on it live, bad unsafe idea, wear class 1 electrical gloves and use insulated electrical tools only, never bare handed.

[@PatrickKQ4HBD]

@@airgliderz that's fantastic advice, but not many homeowners know that.

[@jraybye]

I'm a retired general contractor. My electrical subcontractor once described electrical tape on wire nuts as "Guilt." He taped receps and switches to protect the bare terminals while the cover plates were off during drywall finishing and painting.

[@curtisbme]

Not a pro but I did it in part for this as well. Needed some live outlets while drywalling and finishing and detest people who finish and paint with outlets in (not that it can be seen with an outlet cover, I just know it was done..). Pigtail connection to Wago connectors with the terminals wrapped makes this a easy and safer way for me to work and be able to remove and put back in the outlet quickly.

[@punkz87506]

Also, in this world of once trusted manufacturers slapping their name on junk, I applaud 3M for sticking to their guns and only manufacturing/branding things that actually work. Their adhesives are stuff of legend.

[@bronsonschnitzel7493]

Don’t tell the veterans with hearing loss that

[@wlh227]

The township where I live does not allow it as I had to remove the tape from a kitchen addition I wired in the late 1970's. I asked the inspector why it was not allowed and he gave me the following reasons. 1 - It is not allowed in the local code. 2 - Makes a visual inspection of the connections impossible. 3 - The adhesive in all tapes will degrade an come loose over time. 4 - The tape itself could become a fire hazard.

[@JDfromWitness]

Good point on using quality tape! I have seen many cases where when pulling a receptacle after a number of years reveals a band of shrunken hard tape around the wires that used to be around the receptacle.

[@steveperry1344]

scotch 33.

[@Mik3yLow]

5:29 I do tape the wires together, after pull test, but I do not wrap the wire nut as well. I wrap the wires about 6"-1' down because it keeps the wires in place encase someone moves it so that the wires inside the nut don't come loose.

[@DJayAce4]

I always wrap electrical tape around my receptacles, no matter the box... It's just good practice, I figured this is something everyone would agree on haha. Main reason is to prevent shorts. Even in a plastic box sometimes you're stuffing wires behind the receptacle and we all know how some grounding wires are bare. It's just to help prevent a short circuit from occurring, no matter if it's a metal box or a plastic one. Also a lot of electricians will open up receptacles and switches while they are still hot, and it's nice to do so having the terminals somewhat protected with the tape, encase you brush up against it on accident or accidently touch it against something conductive. Idk, in my opinion it's always good practice to just tape it every time. It's a no brainer for me, tape every time no matter what. Anyone who disagrees, can't say I really respect it because it literally takes no extra time to do. Just my 2 cents

[@ricmndy1]

haha..you say wrapping is good practice but then say " a lot of electricians will open up receptacles and switches while they are hot". Is it not "good practice" to remove power?

[@DJayAce4]

@@ricmndy1 It is good practice to remove power. Not all electricians will do this though, many will cut corners. Either that or there will be 5 people doing work on their computers and you're unable to just turn the power off. Yes you can come back later, but most electricians won't bother with that trouble. So when making up a receptacle, it's never good to assume everyone will do everything 100% the right way with proper procedure. Always think ahead and down the road when it comes to electricity, that's truly the best way to go about this trade. Anything cut short of that is just bad practice IMO.

[@JeffPenaify]

@@ricmndy1 it can be very counterproductive to shut power off when trouble shooting.

[@ricmndy1]

@@JeffPenaify who troubleshoots a possible bad recepticle like that? You can trouble shoot a circuit without removing the recepticle from the box. So why would you need to protect the terminals? I've worked in Avionics and Satellite Communications for over 30 years so I know how to troubleshoot live circuits. It's not necessary to remove a recepticle to troubleshoot it with power on.

[@JeffPenaify]

@@ricmndy1 in residential electrical, it can absolutely be neccessary to troubleshoot circuits by opening the box up and testing wires while live, often when dealing with switch legs, travelers, or joints in the box, usually from hack work. I’ve been on more service calls than I can count where trying to figure out what the idiot before you did with no power means removing a ton of drywall

[@waynenocton]

When I use electrical tape I normally do two separate wraps, my thinking is that one needs to unravel completely before the other one can begin to unravel.

[@inklingsofgod]

NECA NEIS 130 5.3 Conductors (L) states "DO NOT wrap electrical tape around wiring device terminals. Taping wiring device terminals will prevent heat dissipation from the wiring device." National Electrical Contractors Association National Electrical Industry Standards

[@rosseryn8216]

As a 30 yr industrial maintenance/repair electrician. Always tape your dang wire nuts. Verify wires are in the wire nut good. Run the tape first around the wires a couple wraps then up over the wire nut to seal off the opening. When done if possible bend so that the open end of the wire nut is down. This helps with vibration, keeps strain off the wire nut, keeps bugs out of the connection (yes they will get in it, die and short) and helps minimize moisture in it. Hold the nut and run the tape counterclockwise thus in the opposite direction that the wire nut screws on. That way when the next person comes along to work on it they can take the tape off easier without unscrewing the wire nut. Also leave a short folded tab on anything you tape, called a buddy tab. Again allows the next person that comes along to more safely and easily remove the tape for trouble shooting. Also wrap the recepticle, protects it from insects, occasionally dust and moisture and most importantly it more makes it safer and easier on the person that comes along several years later trouble shooting something on the line. While we are at it: use a descent tape of some sort. IE Scotch 33+ eqivilent or better. if youre working in cold weather the Scotch Super 88 is outstanding (my favorite but a little more expensive). Tape stuff and use good tape so that in military parlance you won't be a "Buddy f**k*r"

[@ethelryan257]

Really well done. I always wrap receptacles. Period. As long as we have bare copper wires in our boxes, it is mandatory and I demand it from all our electricians, just as I forbid backstabbing under any circumstances, ever. I stopped using wirenuts way back when - WAGOs work better, period.

[@ronvonbargen8411]

Wagos are similar to back stabbing...the only time I wrap in tape is in multiple gang boxes

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Nice! Thanks for the feedback Ethan and WAGO 221 lever nuts are growing on me. I have WAGO 2773 on order to see if these newer more compact push pins are worth using going forward. The problem is I think they are back ordered until Aug 2021.

[@alzeos2611]

Wrap in a metal box yes. Wire nuts no (you will have sticky black hands after you waste time undoing them. Ideal, 3m, Wago are good quality, could have used a yellow Ideal winged nut for 3 number 12's. I could not see if you bootlegged the GFI but maybe a GFI breaker would be appropriate. There are always opinions on what constitutes best practices vs min code. Agree to never daisy chain through the outlet, better to be a branch on the tree and it won't heat up the outlet or leave the downstream ones without power. Just my 2 cents.

[@jakubmakalowski6428]

as someone who's been shocked by the screws before, I say yes. I know double checking power is off is on me, but we all make mistakes, especially when boxes are poorly labeled

[@eugeneshealthproject]

Electrical tape is used on wire nuts to prevent them from backing out or loosening due to vibration. Testing for a solid connection must be done before tape is applied. But this has all been eliminated with the use of Wago leaver connectors.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

I do like the Wago lever nuts 👍

[@huejanus5505]

Wago’s are good, but if that little locking tab gets nudged the wrong way when stuffing the wires back in the box, you’re going to have a problem.

[@eugeneshealthproject]

@@huejanus5505 that's not true there was a video the demonstrated that. It must be more than just nudged it must be pulled up in a vertical position perpendicular to the body. why are you lying about it if you are talkin about the # 221 lever connector the most recent ones. They even join stranded wire with or without solid wire better than wire nuts with less chance of a fire. I have seen wire nuts that were so loose the wires inside were arcing and the wire nuts were blackened. Vibrations loosen wire nuts. I have seen many loose wire nuts that I had to replace and tape because there was a lot of Street vibration around the house and businesses.

[@georgewadejr5474]

@@eugeneshealthproject so you are saying it doesn't work either. How many rolls of tape Have you seen turn into funnels.

[@ryanwilson5936]

@@huejanus5505 If you unlock a wago by stuffing wires you have a different issue at hand.

[@michaeljavert4635]

I never see these surveys and I don't even see some videos, like this one, that says was 2 years ago... I personally ALWAYS wrap electric outlets, regardless if the box is plastic, which I will rip out if it is, and replace with metal, but regardless. The reason is probably my stubbornness to do things the right way. The reason I think it's the right way is because that's what I was taught in trade school back in the 1990s and the reasoning given was that when a box is stuffed with bare wire, "Grounds" that they can move and "spring" action from tension of being stuffed, and make contact with a hot or neutral side, creating a short or a danger. Then of course the second reason, which is my obstinacy on metal boxes. When I started messing with electrics, I always wrapped my wire nuts but I also installed them correctly to begin with. I took my electricians pliers and twisted the wires first, then used the appropriate sized caps. Do a tug test. Then wrap in tape. Just always something a little extra. Also, had the idea that if something was to twist or try to wiggle loose, it would be less likely because of the stickiness holding everything together. When Wago came along, and I learned about Wago from you, and where I am at now, I loved them, and I still do. At first, I didn't wrap them in tape, but I noticed in some instances, they would pop open, or could even be pushed by a wire. So I do use electrical tape for those too. Just a wrap over the levers themselves, not the actual wires. I don't see myself ever going back to the old wire caps again and even have removed a lot of wire caps and replaced them with Wago nuts, even though there wasn't anything wrong in the first place. More OCD I guess. It's not easy being me.

[@peterlutz7191]

I learned to do that back in 1970 when I worked for the Orange County Fl Schools summer apprentice program as an Electrician Apprentice. The Journeyman I was assigned to showed me how to do a lot about electrical work.

[@inklingsofgod]

NECA NEIS 130 5.3 Conductors (L) states "DO NOT wrap electrical tape around wiring device terminals. Taping wiring device terminals will prevent heat dissipation from the wiring device." National Electrical Contractors Association National Electrical Industry Standards

[@marcknight5678]

Hvac Tech here. When wire nuts (low voltage) are used and could potentially be exposed to the elements I always tape up and around the nut. It prevents any moisture form getting inside the cap.

[@zack9912000]

Yep, do that daily. That little extra helps from stupid call backs and shorted board.

[@CookieManCookies]

This is hilarious, only wrap and use wing nuts if you are from the 1980's. All my remodels are done with WAGO 221 series snap on connectors (2, 3, and 5 port). Safe, UL listed, and highly durable. Works on 10 awg to 26 awg wire, never had a problem, not even with stranded wire.

[@revbradl]

This was informative and helpful. Thanks for putting it together. I'm with you, only taping when worried about the possibility of short.

[@KameraShy]

1. That old gooey cloth electrical tape we used, before vinyl, was usually called "friction tape." I remember it from back in the 50's. Still sold. Generally it hardened like a rock. I have had to remove it and was not easy. 2. I also wrap switches. 3. I do not wrap wire nuts but have migrated to Wago Wall-Nuts.

[@tombax1653]

Wago completely obsoleted wire nuts. The 221 series lever nuts are also super useful when you have a ton of wires you need to reconfigure frequently. They're nice because it is easy to reconfigure wiring, then when you get it right you just leave them because they handle vibration fine. Also nice because they make it easy to add terminating resistors to data wiring.

[@daijoubu4529]

@@tombax1653 contractors and electricians are cheap, wire nuts are still cheaper lol

[@wizard3z868]

That friction tape is a godsend with using splitbolts and than 33+ after

[@jimtownsend7899]

We used to buy friction tape all the time. It was great on the blades of our hockey sticks, and to build up the butt end. But, always finish the butt end with hockey tape, otherwise the friction tape will destroy the palm of your glove. Oh, for electric devices? Don't use tape. I make mechanical connections, and ensure they are secure.

[@ronblack7870]

i have an industrial plant. almost never do we tape around an outlet unless it's tight and 460v.we only use stranded wire. with stranded never twist the wires together before putting on the wire nut. it won't grab properly. instead hold them parrallel and use the wire nut to twist them together until you see the wires twisting beyond the nut.test each lead for pullout. we never put tape on nuts. use the 3m wingnuts with the rubber skirts. with solid wires you can twist them together first.

[@brianbrown1955]

I do it myself. It can’t hurt as an extra safety measure.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

👍

[@erlycuyler]

I do too. Did it just today on a gfci upgrade. I've seen a few guys get nipped removing a receptacle not taped.

[@idigbebop]

Case study; It wasn’t until I experienced a major short in a HVAC 60amp utility feed connection that I started taping wire nuts. A 60 cycle frequency pulse over time has the potential to cause a wire nut internal tension to gap causing arching even in a properly installed wire nut. This case, the arching heat over time burned through the wire nut which was touching the metal access cover panel of a home owner A/C air handler unit. The direct short caused intermittent sparking to shoot across the owners garage and burned a 2 inch hole in the panel cover. The breaker eventually tripped. I now tape all wire nuts in a clockwise rotation as to maintain the wire nut in tension. Lesson learned; It is good PM to periodically inspect all high amp wire nut connections for integrity and any sign of over heating.

[@gabrielM1111]

ALWAYS WRAP. nothing to loose. Possibly LIFE to save! (life of someone knowing nothing about elec opening and grabbing outlet, or hot screw touching metal box of an ungrounded home causing hot ground plugs of anything plugged into it.

[@bluejack-ve7so]

No no need to wrap. That's your own damn fault for doing that. Bet you learned your lesson.

[@gabrielM1111]

@@bluejack-ve7so you need to wrap in metal box.

[@bluejack-ve7so]

@@gabrielM1111 no you don't. Nothing in the NEC about wrapping a receptacle with tape in a metal box. That's just a personal preference.

[@bluejack-ve7so]

@@gabrielM1111 and actually a metal box is more safe than a plastic box. A metal box is grounded so if a hot wire comes in contact with it, it trips the breaker. With a plastic box it just melts it away. No return path to ground.

[@scottsatterthwaite4073]

When installing GFCI into old metal box locations, I will often cut the metal box out and put in a new old work plastic box. Takes a little more time but it makes life easier.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@micropyro7470]

Before I end my wrap I like to leave a little tang on the end by folding back about 1/8 inch and stick it to its self. The next guy will thank you!

[@dannychavez2420]

You plan on reusing that tape?

[@skibum6422]

@@dannychavez2420 No it's just a curtesy tab for the whoever needs to remove the tape later.

[@dannychavez2420]

How long does it take to unwrap it? Waste of time!

[@poppasan1873]

The next gal should add a small scissors to her tool bag to cut the tape off. Faster than unwrapping.

[@jimshort9266]

@@dannychavez2420 … it doesn’t take long at all if the last guy left you the tang (or flag) so your not fumbling around looking for the end.

[@Mechone11]

For 40 years I have taped outlets and it passes code in Canada On any vibration like motors in Industry a couple of wraps of electrical tape over wire nut followed by wraps of electrical rubber tape and then final wrap of electrical ,the first wrap of electrical is so you don't fight getting the rubber tape off . This also for screw type lugs which are preferred over wire nuts

[@abdulelkhatib2674]

I wrap tape around outlets and switches especially in metal boxes and crammed boxes. Tape around wire nuts is pointless because if its done right there shouldn't be any risk of arcing. Edit: I don't use wire nuts any more I prefer the Wago lever nuts. They are a lot better than wire nuts especially for old brittle wires.

[@Green_Leaf]

As an industrial electrician for nearly 20 years, I always wrap the receptacle in metallic boxes. I do not tape receptacles in residential and light commercial non metallic boxes. I do tape wire nuts in outdoor installations to help keep out moisture.

[@blueoval250]

Have you ever removed a wire nut in a box that has been wet but has dried out? You’re likely to find find moisture inside the wire nut, it gets in but doesn’t get out. I’ve seen it hundreds if not thousands of times.

[@clickster1883]

Such a cool channel. I'm glad I stumbled upon it. Keep up the good work, my man.

[@stephendevore3902]

One thing I have noticed with many of the recent outlets is plastic rot I call it. This were the plastic in the outlets become brittle regularly of environmental conditions. I had the lowest quality to highest due this??? I'm not a professional in any way.Is this because the companies are using lower quality plastics to save money in production costs. This was apparent even before the Pandemic. I had to rereplace receptacles. The whole receptacle past front crumbled away. The reason I had to replace it was just plugging in cord for the vacuum. The tape on the plastic wire connector is a tough one.Its about 50/50 for and against the process .Good Video 😎

[@ix.cryo1]

Recommended doing on outlets installed on metal boxes

[@farmerdave7965]

ditto

[@timfritz3828]

But not needed

[@jimmac1185]

@@timfritz3828 Right, it's not needed, but code is MINIMUM. If you install you work to just meet code requirements, you are a hack and your job will look like shit.

[@farmerdave7965]

@@timfritz3828 It's not a code requirement. It's just good workmanship.

[@timfritz3828]

@@jimmac1185 do you use the 1968 nec? And in 1972 minimum standards is removed. And if code is minimum why are their maximums in the nec?

[@peteroleary9447]

Before there was Scotch 33+ there was just Scotch 33. Before that there was vinyl electrical tape of various brands and qualities, and some of it was horrible - it was brittle off the roll would dry out and fall apart quickly. Before that, black friction tape was commonly used to insulate splices. There used to be a section in the NEC regarding proper taping of wire nuts which required the wrap to go around the crotch between the wires and the wire nut, covering the open bottom of the wire nut and providing additional mechanical strength to the splice.

[@ryanwilson_canada]

According to my electrician, he prefers to tape them. However it is against electrical code here and would fail inspection here if you got a persnickity inspector.

[@williameisenberg1999]

You are not violating Electrical codes by taping your outlets !! That must be the towns Electrical inspectors own rule . The town can over ride The NEC . In my view it only makes working on the receptacle that much safer when working on it live.

[@justinogle150]

there is no code in the NEC saying you can't tape them. I personally only tape outlets that are close together or in a metal box. in a plastic box it makes no difference

[@JeremyHansen]

@@williameisenberg1999 there are a lot of places outside the US that use codes other than the NEC. The original commentor might be from somewhere that forbids wrapping in their national code.

[@Not_Sure_]

Maybe the inspector wants to see a proper shepherd's hook, and if it's taped up he can't see it.

[@oldcrazyeye6482]

@@JeremyHansen there's a lot of towns and municipals that tweak the codes to their own liking as well. I had one inspector fail a house because the conduit was cut with a tubing cutter (properly). In the end it all comes down to the person signing the green tag or hopefully not the red one.

[@stillthakoolest]

Keep in mind that in many areas of the home, replacing a 2 prong outlet now requires AFCI and GFCI protection to meet code, and those outlets run about $26 a pop.

[@blueoval250]

I refuse to do that. If someone wants them replaced they either get another two wire or it gets rewired. I don’t believe there is a substitute for a proper ground especially when you’re relying on electronics.

[@johanbouwer]

I always wrap receptacles inside metal boxes. Master Electrician, CET

[@etherealrose2139]

Why? Are you bridging the metal box to the receptacle? Because tape does nothing except trap heat near the wires. Current doesn't magically jump air gaps unless the voltage is sufficient to overcome the resistance of the air. And if you have that much voltage coming in your stuff will probably burn down long before reaching that receptacle.

[@johanbouwer]

@@etherealrose2139 Not wrapping the wires, but the terminal screws. It is mainly meant when one has to work on a live circuit. Sometimes it is just not feasible to turn of power.

[@amtank]

I suppose you also love everything TR.

[@joerucinski1962]

I use tape on receptacles when in a tight metal box as you have described. I do not tape wire nuts as I have not come across any PROPERLY installed wire nut come loose over time. Properly installed? The wires need to be stripped to the same length, the ends need to meet, the installer needs to crank that nut down TIGHT!! Then, pull on the individual wires one at a time. Personally, I use the wing-nut style so that I can tighten them more easily than those without the wings. Keeping in mind, that we are speaking of connections that are not on vibrating equipment like motors. These are always taped if a wire nut is used at all, they are not recommended on motors.

[@personalfunfest]

I wrap outlets, wire nuts (always twist wires with pliers first), and a 2" area around the romex when it's going under a metal knockout connector... or anytime I want some extra jacket protection. Codes are *minimum* standards... you can do extra if you wish...

[@thomasmatacis1195]

Great comment on code being a minimum. Thank you Motzart

[@MrTrashcan1]

I never understood why the code is so strict on so many seemingly insignificant issues, but it's perfectly fine to shove a receptacle with exposed neutral and hot screws into a box full of bare ground wires. I'm currently doing a project where I already had two shorting issues with ground wires in PLASTIC boxes! And I am a sticker for neatness and carefully folding wires---but it didn't stop these issues. Ironically one I removed where the electrician had taped it and I inserted it back untaped. Now I tape all receptacles.

[@raybader8871]

Over past 30 years of working in electrical field, I have seen many cases of loose splices and even wire nuts that fall off while moving splices. Splices of solid conductor should made before wire nut is installed to confirm wires are wrapped properly around each other with no crossing of wires and no spaces between wires. Taping is always recommended over wire nut to ensure it does not loosen while splices are moved about. Also some brands of wire nuts are notorious for not " grapping" well. (ie, Marrette brand #33 and #31). Your video implies that the tape is holding the wire nut on a very bad splice. The splice should be strong, independent of tape. The tape is there to prevent wire nut from loosesning while packing and unpacking wires in boxes, fixtures, etc. Since the wire nut is the insulator of splce, you do not need the expensive tape for providing reinforcement of splice. Also tape a around a receptacle in plastic or metal box can prevent a bare bond conductor from contacting any "hot" terminals

[@georgedavall9449]

Excellent comment Ray Thanks! 👍

[@JasonW.]

This is why I refuse to let Barry Bonds work on my electric.

[@frankstallcup8720]

@@Joe-by8jh yes I do no more than the engineers, I routinely have to troubleshoot and fix there shitty products, you never use the wire nut to twist your wires together, you twist wires together with your side cutters, and then apply wire nut, after putting wire nut on, you then pull on wire nut and wires to ensure good connection, you never wrap splices with tape, unless your splicing wires in a pecker head in a motor, you then use rubber tape and 33 so that the kerney doesn’t short from vibration of the motor. To many people on here with no experience giving opinions on things they know nothing about. Unless you have sold the product, installed the product, warranted the product, you don’t have enough knowledge to comment. Doing those things make you an expert, not designing a product that doesn’t work, IE the engineers who you speak so highly of

[@JeremyHansen]

If you require tape over wire nuts to "ensure it doesn't loosen", you're doing your wire nuts wrong. Maybe you should switch completely to Wagos or a different profession so you don't burn down a house...

[@josephlabranch6595]

I do but only because I might have too pull it back out in ring out ( in Nonmetallic, pressed, and ringed boxes), in a metal cut in box or gem box a 100 % always!

[@ericeaton371]

when rewiring my garage i used tape on outlets to color code them to the circuit breakers along with wrapping the tape roughly every 18 inches along the wire through the wall so if i opened the wall for something , i would know which wires i was looking at. also left a schematic in the breaker box for the next person. had electrician look it over before powering up and he had to chuckle..stating even a complete idiot could figure out what went where with how "simplistic" every thing was laid out.

[@lyfandeth]

In New England we used to have Slipknot Gray, came in a metal tin and was the full equal to 3M. Haven't seen it around for a while.

[@selador11]

"Do the pull test, and it's the tape holding it together... Disengenuous. Probably not intentionally. Who does the pull test after the tape? I do not move on after applying a wirenut, until I have done the pull test several ways, and am sure the wires are both well engaged and tight. THEN I tape.

[@annquach6613]

I work commercial and industrial. I do wrap receptacles in electrical tape because we use metal boxes. It’s good practice, and avoids shorts if we’re jam packing the boxes (double duplex outlet, or someone spliced in the back). Most of our receptacles are prefabbed with a pigtails coming out, so we just makeup with wire nuts, fold in the free conductors and screw in the device. I would make the device before any installs. So cut 7 inch conductors, loop the wire if solid, crimp the wire if stranded with a fork terminal, drive the set screw, then wrap the receptacle with electrical tape. It saves time.

[@randomizedidentifier4959]

Interesting poll. My dad taught me about electrical wiring and he never used tape on the outlet. He taped the inside of a metal box, but never taped using a plastic box. I've never heard of wrapping the outlet, and I can't begin to imagine the frustration the next person will have to deal with after years of temperature changes turns the glue into a sticky mush. He definitely stressed the importance of proper wing nut wiring. He never taped the cap to the wire, but he did tape the wires right below the cap (to strengthen them from separating) and then again a few inches down. I've been using this technique to this day regardless what I wire. Gravity and time do some impressive things to wires we take for granted. Another thing he taught me to do was to twist a ring on the hot wire, then use it to hang the line from the grounds. I never could understand why he did this until I studied electrical engineering. I suppose the technique of hanging was borne of a time when insulation wasn't great and electromagnetic feedback had an impact on electronics. We're a very foolish country for giving up trade schools and apprenticeships. Just a personal opinion.

[@curtisbme]

I didn't until once when I was pushing in the receptacle into the box the ground wire bent and I didn't notice it so turning on the power resulted in scary pop and tripped the breaker. Decided it was good practice for my consumer efforts as I'm not being paid to try to do everything as fast as possible.

[@olgreywolf9688]

At 80+, been installing, reworking worn receptacles throughout my life. I've NEVER heard, at any time, from any elecrician or other, of "wrapping an entire receptacle like this before installing in a proper sized box!! IF you do the wiring/connecting job correctly, and select correct designed and sized box, there's absolutely no need for this. If someone can bump a wall and cause a short, then someone totally failed to install the recept correctly!! And who "bumps" a wall hard enough to knock a connection loose like this. All baloney!!! Nuts!! Oh ... came back to add ... yeah ... wire nuts, I wrap. Have more than once encountered where some idiot used wirenuts without physically twisting to connect wires FIRST. Wire nut just fell off in my hand. So ... I think it's a good idea to 'back up' the mechanical wirenut twist-on with quality tape, wrapped "with" the twist.

[@AJDIYNetwork]

For wire nuts, I do the pull test before taping. I don’t rely on the tape to hold the wires!

[@godman5043]

Electrical tape around a device is not needed. Some downsides: it can come off, can help encourage moisture retention around the screws, and is a pain to take off when the outlet has to be serviced.

[@inklingsofgod]

NECA NEIS 130 5.3 Conductors (L) states "DO NOT wrap electrical tape around wiring device terminals. Taping wiring device terminals will prevent heat dissipation from the wiring device." National Electrical Contractors Association National Electrical Industry Standards

[@wrenchinwithlondon3141]

@@Robnord1 I wouldnt call anyone a fool while suggesting using wire nuts in a high vibratrion setup. either a crimp nut or a properly crimped butt connector. in a high vibration application a wire nut should really only be used to test for example a motors rotation direction, I wouldn't trust it long term in a high vibration setup.

[@Robnord1]

@@wrenchinwithlondon3141 I agree with you, but worded my comment poorly. I see wire nut use regularly in my HVAC and RV work. In those environments, it's common practice to wirenut, then tape for security. Not the best choice of connection for sure, especially joining stranded to solid, but they do it for economy. I don't complain much though because meltdowns are a source of income for me. 😉

[@wrenchinwithlondon3141]

@@Robnord1 Oh definitely. I've seen a fair bit of it rv's and even heavy equipment. But I work on the manufacturing end now so we don't ever want to have to touch a piece again once we finish so wire nuts are a no-no minus for testing purposes haha

[@Richard-lionhearted]

I was a electrician in Toronto Canada 🇨🇦 for 35 years and I always took a lot of pride in doing a better job then most ! So here is my take on your two items questioned , Wire Nuts , if you strip the 14 , 12 , 10 , gage wire the proper length then twist them together “ properly “ and trim , then put the appropriate wire nut on again properly there should be No reason to use tape after . No bare wire should be sticking out of the wire nut to cause any possible short . If all that is done . If any bare wire is sticking out of the wire nut then the job wasn’t done to proper standards ,twisting the wire together “ If done proper creates a electrical joint that would never ark and cause problems ... So Tape isn’t needed ! Wrapping tape around the receptacle , is almost never done by professionals, that being said wrapping is a extra safety step that can’t hurt and would only help protecting from a ark or short when extracting a live unit from the box ( if metal ) . But for safety of a home owner doing his own work power should always ALWAYS be turned off when working on that box ( circuit ) Getting tips on how to do it right from a professional should be a must for any laymen ! To many people “ THINK “ they know how to do it right and really don’t ! I’ve seen to many houses burnt from people wiring stuff in a house with not enough knowledge to do it proper. And many of these self help videos ( sorry to say ) the people making the video don’t really understand how to do the job properly 😱 Good Luck be safe !

[@JasonW.]

One problem I have found twice when an GFCI was wrapped with electrical tape: Both instances were single gang metal box. The GFCI was wrapped and stuffed in the box, but the installer installed it slightly off center. The electrical tape kept the hot screw from immediately shorting against the box, but over time vibration of outlet use (guessing) eventually wore tape down and circuit breaker popped. On one of them, the breaker must have popped many times, considering how burnt the screw was. If the installer wouldn't have used tape, it would have been immediately noticed that the outlet was offset against the box. It might have been the outlet didn't originally have tape, but did after it popped the breaker after initial power was applied. Anyway, I believe the tape is just hiding a potential issue.

[@mook528]

So you’re saying don’t wear a hardhat on the worksite so if there is an unsafe condition and a brick falls on my head, I’ll immediately know it was a brick and then I can correct the situation?

[@RB-xv4si]

@@mook528 hahahahahaha, amen brother. I couldn’t have said it better myself. You beat me to it.

[@RB-xv4si]

One suggestion for you is to stop using the word “popped” and start using the word “tripped”.

[@bobsbarnworkshop]

As an EX electrical contractor I suggest twisting the conductors tightly and cutting them flush before installing a wire nut and you'll never have an issue and we always used Scotchlok connectors because they are soft and conform over the wire bundle unlike hard plastic wire nuts which just catch the tips. And we never taped a receptacle or never heard of a professional doing it...

[@georgedavall9449]

Hey Scott and gang. I knew two Master Ekectricians, who always wrapped both boxes, and wire nut connections. I do as well. And the Super 33 + you mentioned Scott, is what I almost always use, in yellow! 😀 Yes, tape costs money, but what price on safety and peace of mind? These are great videos and topics Scott! Keep em coming! Stay safe and Healthy! 👍😁🇺🇸

[@NickFrom1228]

Agreed, that's exactly what I do. Devices and wire nuts get taped and with a quality tape. Pretty much anything 3M. I buy a ton of el cheapo tape for pulling and other throw away tasks but when it comes to anything having to do with insulating, it's 3M all the way.

[@georgedavall9449]

@@NickFrom1228 Hi Nick, and thanks for reply and great comment. I completely concur with you! Take care and stay safe!

[@docferringer]

Cheap tape sure does make a mess and I happily pay extra for the good stuff. Adhesive will gum up and take forever to wash off, not to mention the residue left on the wiring will collect debris, bugs, and dust over time. In extreme cases that may even make it a fire hazard. An alternative to wrapping the switch/outlet is to use a removable band. I think Ideal makes some, and they are fast to put on and leave no residue when you take them off. I also see a lot of guys in the comments talking about using tape to keep the wire nut from falling off, and their reasons for doing so are good ones (vibration loosening the nut, temperature changes, etc.) So if you are nodding along agreeing with the pro-tape folks and want to avoid the tape issues here is what I recommend for wire nuts: 1) Twist your wires together until you have a solid mechanical connection between all of them. 2) Trim your wires and twist on the wire nut until it stops turning. That's a good mechanical connection, so now to make it stay that way. 3) Slide your hand down the wire bundle so there are 2-3 inches of wire between your hand and the wire nut. Start twisting the nut again until the wire bundle itself twists together--about 2-3 full turns worth. I use a drill for this to save my wrists. Your wire nut should not pop off during this process, so if it does, take the nut off and see where the connection started slipping and address that. 4) Now you have proven that there is a good mechanical connection between the wires, and the extra twists on the wire have become a strain relief for the connection. You can stop here, but if you really want to keep going, I will assume you don't plan on undoing this connection any time soon. 5) Skip the tape. Put some 3:1 heat shrink over the nut and wires and shrink away. Unlike electrical tape the heat shrink won't break down when things get hot--in fact, it will snug up even more. That wire nut ain't going nowhere. What, you want more? 6) Instead of 3:1 heat shrink (or in addition to, if you REALLY want to overdo it) use some 2:1 dual wall adhesive heat shrink. For those not familiar with it, this variety of heat shrink has a layer of hot glue on the inside so that when you heat it up, the hot glue melts in to all the gaps between the wires. That helps keep any single wire in the bundle from moving while also making the connection water resistant (not waterproof). And since it is hot glue you can cut the heat shrink over the wire nut and peel it right off the same way you strip a wire. And no residue! So now you have a bundle of wires that has a solid mechanical connection, a wire nut to ensure it stays that way, a twisted wire bundle for strain relief, and heat shrink to satisfy your tape fetish. Talk about overkill.

[@ForkLiftCertified]

Wrapping electrical tape around the wire nut is a great idea..... it keeps the electrons from leaking out. ;)

[@bee4472]

Finally !! Someone who knows their shit

[@colincampbell5207]

Electrons are angry pixies....they'll get into everything!

[@odb_roc_hound4186]

But it will hold the smoke in, so how will you know if you have a problem if you cant see the smoke?

[@mayorb3366]

LOL! Reminded me of a customer who wrapped the electrical conduits to her pool timer box before a freeze (the pool plumbing lines were left exposed.) Her electrons did not freeze!

[@donaldshimkus539]

Same here, always in a metal box AND with Super 33 +. I don't normally bother with taping wire nuts, but go case by case. I noticed when he removed the tape, it was wrapped backwards. You should start on the wire nut wrapping in the direction you tighten it. Continue around at least twice and work it down onto the wire 3 times around. Like dad said, if you're going to do it, do it right.

[@FF-if1hm]

While assisting electricians, they all always did it and told me to do it

[@jimmysixx8580]

I believe a good time to use tape on an outlet or switch and wrap the wire nuts is when you have a full box of wire nuts and a bare copper ground wire. When stuffing everything back in the box, that bare ground wire can sneak under a wire nut opening or touch an outlet/switch screw. Taping eliminates that chance and it only take a minute to do.

[@jeremymenning56]

What about the receptacles with USB ports built in with the standard plug? These seem to have some openings along the outside of the housing which is meant for a heat sink or air flow and it doesn't seem intuitive to cover something like that up. Thanks.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Good point Jeremy, if there is a heat sink that would definitely not be advised to cover with tape.

[@illestofdemall13]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs You can just cover the terminals only, but definitely not a good idea to cover the vents.

[@amrevrhyme]

I build CNC machines and the only time I use wire nuts is pretty much the only time I use electrical tape too. And that is on main 3 phase electrical motors. The boxes on them are rather small and the wires are usually packed in there quite tightly. You can't hard wire them in case it needs to be changed sometime in the future. You always use a NEW wire nut, (not too big, not too small), twist it to where the shielded portions coming out of the wire nut are twisted too, and you always wrap the nut and wires with electrical tape the direction of tight. A loose wire in an electrical box, that's one thing. Loose wire in a motor.... whole different animal.

[@deputydan2226]

I do it because that's how I was taught, and have you ever installed an outlet without tape in a metal box while the electric was still live.. I have they call me sparky now 😏

[@ironmartysharpe8293]

When I wrap receptacles B4 installing in the box , Of course I use Scotch super 33 + But I use the 1 1/2" wide tape and I back off the mounting screws to make wrapping easier Also I wrap switches for added safety because when there's two or more switches in the box , Each one could be on a separate circuit and when replacing a switch , You may have the power off to the switch you're replacing and the others may be live Besides wrapping to prevent grounding out against a metal box It helps guard against accidentally touching the switches that are still live and I also use the 1 1/2" wide tape for wrapping switches as well When dealing with a metal box and installing a GFCI outlet Wrapping it with tape is an absolute must Whether it has a ground wire or not If there's no ground wire and the hot terminal touches the box , Will Make the box , The outlet mounting bracket and the ground slot electrically live which means you can get a shock putting a plug in and your fingers may touch the cover plate screw which is electrically live if the hot terminal touches the box that has no ground wire , Another thing in this case scenario , You plug in an appliance or anything that has a ground wire will make the whole appliance electrically live because of electricity backfeeding through the ground wire Of course if the box is grounded and the hot terminal touches it , Will blow a fuse or trip the circuit breaker , So always wrap outlets and switches when installing in a metal box I found this happen at my buddy's house , He plugged in his table saw and he got a shock because what happened was that the outlet was in a metal box with no ground wire and the hot terminal was touching the box which made the grounded part of the outlet live and made the whole saw live from electricity coming through the ground wire on the cord for the saw So after I fixed that issue I installed a ground wire from the outlet box to a metal ground rod driven in the ground because whoever wired his shop B4 he bought it had no equipment grounding , So him and I took out all original wiring and rewired the shop with all new equipment including a new circuit breaker panel

[@PlanParadigms]

I may have started the discussion by accident. Comment on NOT using tape is important, but more important is how to properly twist wires. You need a very good lineman's or specialty tool especially twisting #12. Stripping longer than needed, lining up the insulation, gripping wires in parallel to each-other. Then a good tight twist takes practice and results in carpal tunnel syndrome which is why most electricians use back wiring if they can get away with it. Finally the importance of cutting end of twisted wires so wire nut threads on all wires, and no copper is exposed..... back to the point IF YOU USE ELECTRICAL TAPE ON A WIRENUT, YOU DID not MAKE A GOOD CONNECTION!!!

[@ethelryan257]

I have long believed (of course, there is also evidence to prove it) that wires which are tightly twisted before being inserted into wirenuts are subject to metal fatigue. WAGOs are the way to go.

[@normferguson2769]

I only wrap the receptacle if there is a chance it may be hanging out live for the drywaller or others to use in construction. (Got one hanging out live right now).

[@chuckmckee2741]

I did new construction an condos and track houses. We don’t ever tape the receptacle. I do get it for metal boxes after construction so you get some protection for the receipt. Yet you should use the right box for the right receptacle. And install it straight.

[@bowmanjeff8]

GFCI without a ground .. So would it be dangerous to use grounded plug devices in this outlet?

[@paulsmallriver6066]

The gfci will trip and cut off the current to the device and hopefully before any damage is done. It is the solution unless a pain in the butt rewiring job is in the plan.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yep, actually doing another video on swapping 2-prong outlets where you don't have the ground to a GFCI. This is approved by NEC but you do need to label "No Equipment Ground" on the face plate.

[@StevePatak]

No, this is how you are supposed to add in grounded devices to 2-wire homes. GFCI is detecting a delta between hot and neutral and after you cross a threshold it trips and kills the hot lead.

[@johnmeengs7209]

My house had 2 prong with metal boxes. The boxes were grounded but not to the outlets.

[@scottstewart9154]

If the plug is supply power downstream I would recommend wiring it in a way the downstream outlets are not GFI protected unless its clear where those downstream outlets are and they are properly marked. Many times ive had to help home owners find the GFI that tripped causing their plug to not work.

[@carolynsessa6069]

Ty for your videos. I’m 75 n learning about ohms law n this demo is so interesting.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for watching!

[@markstevens6682]

There shouldn’t be any need to, electrical tape doesn’t last and just makes a mess....

[@eugeneshealthproject]

Mark I have seen a lot of old wire nuts that have loosened with age do to either poor installation or just too much traffic vibrations loosening the wirenut electrical tape just happens to prevent the wirenut from backing out from imperfect connections and stranded wire with solid wire are the worst offenders for failure that's why I like Wago number # 221 lever wire connector. Which never needs electrical tape. It provides the perfect pressure every single time when you snap it into position. So I disagree with you electrical tape is your first line of defense against an improper or aging wire nut that is ready to fail. I have always used electrical tape since the late 60s and never had a single failure. Wire nuts must never be reused but Wagos can be reused.

[@markstevens6682]

@@eugeneshealthproject Yes agreed, 35 years in the field Ive seen that too. But to many people use really cheap materials including cheap tape....

[@mikeramirez7024]

Mark Stevens, I have seen that similar situation before. When I was working with my old boss many years ago, my bosses client complained about his electrical bill at his house, Sierra Madre, Calif., costing him to pay his Edison electric bill of $600 a month. What it turn out to be was the electrical tape what is the cause of it of the homeowners problem. It was the adhesive of the tape was semiconductive, not enough to short out a circuit but enough to conduct a current load. When we unravel the tape off on every receptacles and the last I’ve heard from the homeowner, he was paying a bill of $150 of his electrical bill that we solve his problem for him.

[@dracula3811]

I’ve had to go on service calls because of receptacles shorting out on the sides of metal boxes. So yes, don’t put tape on receptacles going into metal boxes because i make a lot of money fixing them.

[@georgewadejr5474]

Well crap everyone's has a point. Tape for metal boxes . Don't stretch the tape on plugs and switches . Butt The screws are ressed on the GFCI NO TAPE 🤑 Bad workmanship cheep materials. Had so many splices fall apart tape or no tape

[@saltyroe3179]

Dad thought me to wrap outlets when I was a child. He said it was to keep idiots from shocking themselves. On wire nuts: I use WAGO lever nuts, more expensive, faster to use, sure connections, easy removal without messing up wires. The newer clear ones are smaller than the originals and visual inspection is better. BTW I have some 1929 Ideal wire nuts made of porcelain which came out of my 1929 house.

[@stevenneuberger4323]

I think that if there were a substantial benefit from wrapping receptacles, it would be in the code.

[@jamesbarca7229]

In a tight box with a lot of wires I will sometimes tape the wire nut (after performing a pull test) just to make sure it doesn't get twisted loose while stuffing the wires into the box.