Answered: Your Top 5 Selected Tubeless Tire Fail Questions!

[@timwong3532]

Did Josh really just call the tiny ziplock a crack baggie? I'm dying 😂

[@oneschance]

He said what he said

[@beneyckmans20]

I had to just go back a bit too, "what baggies"? great video though, I thought I knew a lot but apparently not everything.

[@alexgold1981]

With that and the pipe cleaners lying around, we should probably keep an eye on him 😂

[@andrewmcalister3462]

You know that if Silca sold crack, it would be Walter White grade.

[@pitchforkmechanic7797]

Who calls them tiny ziplocks? Wait until you hear what they call a disc wheel inflation adaptor

[@Frostbiker]

How is it possible I have watched hundreds of GCN videos and not learned the difference between tubeless tires and tubeless ready tires?

[@FliskerX]

But have you learned about TR ? is it same as TLR ? Thinking about the GP 5000 S TR ? Is that the "half baked" tire that's going to be foaming?

[@ChrisP978]

​@@FliskerXSame, they require sealant to be air tight. They don't bubble sealant like those thin MTB tires but you'll notice that they hold pressure longer once that sealant is dispersed.

[@Surestick88]

With regards to punching a valve hole in the tape I've had good luck using a hot nail or screw to melt a hole.

[@gaza4543]

all I can say is if you dont want clogged valves get yourself Reserve fillmore valves they literally will not allow sealant down them while riding along by design. If they do get sticky, they can be pulled apart and serviced with an allenkey. These are a true under the radar advancement in bike tech that no one is talking about.

[@tjb8841]

Re rim tape: its adhesive. So like anything you are glueing together: clean the rim (light fine grit sandpaper, alcohol), make sure it’s warm, and press it together. I do the latter by installing a tube and letting it sit in a warm spot overnight. This has the added benefit of having one tire bead already seated, making insets much easier to install, and getting the other bead to seat is easier too. Yes, it’s an extra step, but at home, I figure I’d rather take the extra time up front, not riding, than increase the chances of an issue out on the ride.

[@Pastamistic]

Creating the hole for a valve stem with a soldering iron works great too. Just melt through the tape into a perfectly fit circle. Then pick off some of the flashing created. Learned that one from Spank recommending it for their rim tape application and I've been doing that ever since.

[@lolbubs11111]

Valve cores are also super cheap, like $1 or less. I just replace them when they get clogged. It sounds like soaking them in some heavy oil before install might extend the life a little and I'll try that. But it's not too bad to just replace them once or twice a year anyway.

[@Swanstanley]

Valves clogging is not a massive issue , clogging valve stems is a big issue for me . £28for a little bottle of oil to prevent this is the best thing I’ve learned this year 😅

[@robbwilliams7885]

These are great tips! I love that your channel isn't just about your products (as great as they are). You dispense super helpful advice and knowledge that's helped me be a better biker.

[@randallsmith7885]

With regard to blowing up a rim, I ordered rims from Light Bicycle and an option is to have a very small vent hole drilled in the side wall. It may prevent this issue. Another option they offer is a rim bed with no nipple holes. Makes it difficult and time consuming to build the wheel, but rim tape is not needed.

[@peterhoelzel2448]

Problem with the sidewall holes is, it may trap water inside the rim. Campagnolo rim have no holes and it's perfect for tubeless setups.

[@zachcobb35]

Tape and valve issues were my #1 reason for not continuing with Silca sealant, so I’m glad it is finally addressed here to have an approach to try again.

[@ianjolley7457]

This is the site that I needed to watch before I started with tubeless.

[@michaelclements4664]

@10:18, you can use the valve stem to tack down the end of the rim tape. Just wind the tape so it ends about 5-10 cm past the valve stem.

[@SamW604]

Excellent video! The recommendations for preventing sealant from clogging my valve cores will be put to good use ASAP. Thank you.

[@JuggernautMTB]

With multiple bikes all running tubeless, clogged valves has been an omnipresent irritant. I’ll give this a go on my next install. Thx Josh!

[@MrMars121]

Cleaning out sealant? Every spring when the warm season starts. Meaning when my bikes were not being used for about 3 to 4 months during the winter, I like to take off the tires, clean out the sealant and then replenish it. What are best practices around that? Last year I had orange seal in there, and it completely dried out inside so I cleaned it out cleaned everything and refreshed the sealant.

[@tariqkamil7853]

That first point really makes sense…actually, everything mentioned

[@MarkLRandall]

This is a fantastic video, great info. I knew about the tires, but I've had all kinds of issues with rim tape and clogged valves. I've given up on tubeless, I personally don't find it worth the hassle. I bet if you followed all these tips, it could work well, but I'm not going there anytime soon!

[@JohnGarlandTrialLawyer]

Synerg-e in the valve stem and core! Love it!

[@Swanstanley]

Hell Yeah , it never occurred to me to that something could be done about this . Not a cheap fix but I’ll give it a go with my Stans Race Sealant . 😊

[@northkyt]

I tried putting a little freehub grease in the valve stem and onto the core before I saw this video. My thinking was it should stick and stay in place better than oil (so it won't get inside the tire and prevent the sealant from sealing holes). I'm curious if this will work, time will tell.

[@Hunttherider]

Where was this video 7 yrs ago when I first pumped up my tubeless WTB Nano gravel tyres and watched with confusion as sealant just oozed out of the tyre walls. Great tips here, although we have to laugh at our sport that it demands such micro-level analysis and instruction. Bring it on!

[@mikethomas6051]

I found my sidewall leak spots in the spot i stretched the tyre when getting it on the rim but nothing anywhere else on the tyre

[@ajsds66]

Just use Fillmore valves, no core, nothing to clog, easier to inflate. Best idea ever and a must for tubeless.

[@6SpeedsGood]

Agree, they are super effective and simple to use, if a bit pricey, but you’ll forget about that the first time you use them.

[@Zyzzyx42]

Definitely have the Rene Herse Extralights weeping sealant for a couple days. Not nearly so bad with the RH Standard sidewalls.

[@trroland1248]

What a nightmare! 🤦🏼‍♂️ Who has ever been convinced to pfaff with this?

[@johnpritchard1428]

Yep, can't disagree. £100 solution plus all the faff ... or buy a cheap effective sealant that just works without blocking valves, drying up and lightening your wallet considerably

[@doughorner5730]

Excellent! We talk about your vids at the shop and use the information to improve our work, this one will be up tomorrow morning. Thanks!

[@keithuram]

I find it crazy that I can't find an answer to this, and I was sure that at the end of this video you were going to mention it: When using road inserts from Vittoria, how do you get sealant in?! It has no where to go. It's absolutely insane, and Vittoria doesn't appear to recognize this as a problem. They have a groove in the gravel and mtb inserts, but not in the road, and there is just no space for the sealant. An absolute mess. And I can only get, at most, about one ounce of sealant in with the liners. (This is especially a problem with Silca sealant, or any sealant that you can't put in through the valve. When you do try to put sealant in through the valve - not Silca - it just pushes it back out.) Also, getting air in with road inserts is quite difficult as well. What's the solution? This video is great, by the way! I learned several super helpful tips. particularly about valve maintenance. Thank you!!!

[@jeffreed2743]

Valve prep, brilliant!!

[@davidnall4445]

Another great video. These are topics that confound and confuse most cyclists. Why is my sealant drying up?, why are valves clogging? etc. You are really helping to make the tubeless world much easier to live with. Thanks so much.

[@larrylem3582]

1:08, I hadn't heard of running tubeless tires without sealant. I guess the only disadvantage would be the lack of flat protection.

[@tjb8841]

Regarding inserts: number one tip is get the Cushcore Beaddropper tire lever. Best tire lever anyway, and it works to push the tire bead into the channel, both on install and removal.

[@doughorner5730]

2 questions, what about Whisky (Terivail) tape? That seems different than the types you talked about and for me is much easier to lay down neatly. Also, what do you think about burning the valve hole? We use a soldering iron and it seems to work great.

[@chanstevens9658]

Absolutely love this, and having been tubeless for 5+ years, I recently gave up on a new install after exhausting my vocabulary of curse words and paid the local shop. They, and this video, have now taught me the very important difference between TL and TR so that I can buy and use the right products the right way.

[@hardmtnbiker]

Josh, you really take a “deep dive” into everything about cycling maintenance. As for the awl tool and ensuring that hole gets sealed with the valve stem, I have this tip. Make some silicone O rings and use them. I took some regular silicone caulk used for installation of a kitchen sink and make some O rings. This helps for several reasons. The rim may have a deeper channel and that value moves around and air leaks around it. Also just the forces of attaching and removing your pump and repeatedly threading the valve tight causing a space around that interface. Tell me what you think?

[@marcbryant8482]

I've come to really appreciate Josh's videos. Originally just saw them as promos for very good products (I'm a wax convert) but now I see his work as a unicorn in cycling video world - genuine knowledgeable dude who is there to help. Right up there with GPlama, RidesOfJapan and of course DCR.

[@Frostbiker]

14:58 Thank you for actually showing how things are done with some B-roll, it makes things easier to understand.

[@CatManDoSocial]

Excellent tips, Josh. Especially for the valves and cores. Great stuff. Thank you!

[@marcusantonyledulx]

Watching this video makes me marvel at the simplicity of Clincher tyres & Tubes. FAR MORE SIMPLE. PS: can you imagine having to service tubeless on multi day, long distance Endurance Ride?

[@larryt.atcycleitalia5786]

Long after we're dead and gone, someone will (re)discover a cheap butyl rubber bladder you can put inside your clincher tire to hold the air pressure. It'll weigh barely150 grams and spares can easily be stowed, even in your jersey pocket. The tires they go inside will be folding, supple things you can mount/dismount with your hands and inflate with a simply hand pump that mounts on your bicycle. No sealants, air compressors or foul language required! Despite being cheap, these butyl air bladders can even be easily and inexpensively repaired with a simple patch kit. Imagine! It's easy if you try.

[@maksimalarivimovic4650]

People do super long ultra races such as the transam and the indiepac with tubeless tires what do you mean?

[@MarkLRandall]

Can you imagine if cars used this primitive tubeless technology? We'd have no time for anything else, and our lifespans would be reduced from all the stress.

[@ChrisP978]

I've switched to tubeless years ago and there really isn't that much faf. Top up sealant every 6 months and continue on. It has saved me from countless tube changes from punctures, I'm never going back. Those super thin MTB race tires are the only ones I know of that eat sealant, so just don't use them.

[@williamsylvia3962]

Wow! I gave up on tubeless for my road bike because i thought there was an issue with the tires leaking sealant. Great video Josh!

[@sebastiandomagala9233]

This is such a valuable video for me. I have hesitated quite a long time if I should go for tubeless. Now I know that it would absorb most of my time. No ride in the world is worth that hassle. I will stick to my TPU tubes, that's for sure.

[@willanderson1983]

Literally the best advice

[@glennford0]

Wow!! Great video Josh. Going to use this advice on the tire install I do. Specific issue addressed, gummed up valves and cores.

[@denverman6161963]

As someone who has just started to convert my (non-road) bikes to tubeless, this eased a few concerns I had. Logically speaking, I thought "how is it possible to NOT clog your valves with sealant...given, that's what it's made to do?!" and making them "slippery to sealant" makes a lot of sense. I'm hoping I can do all these things you've referenced so I DON'T regret going tubeless and switch back.....'cause I LOATHE changing flats! Great video.

[@spdaltid]

Oh man, you're gonna just love fixing a sealant leaking flat on the trail.......

[@user-qk6ol8iq3d]

Josh, thanks for another great educational episode! I saw a lot of videos on KZbin about initial TR tires installation, and nobody spoke about additional amount of sealant that you have to pour. So, I used to pour around 60 mil of sealant for a new gravel tire, and the sealant just didn't work. Now I understand why..

[@ellerybice3787]

Thank you for the information that you provided in this video. I experience none of these complicated, messy and troublesome tubeless tires issues that you discuss within. I have the mindset that if tubeless tire proponents encourage riders to keep a backup butyl type pneumatic tube on board, then I will simply keep using tubes as I always have, for the past year

[@ellerybice3787]

Continued; For all the many past years.

[@chrism5433]

Thank you . Really good video.still running tubes but no flats and the best part is having fun lol Cheers 🍺

[@markhagen7777]

Thanks for your insights I am amazed that for the past three years I’ve run road tubeless and managed to navigate the waters without your perspective and tips I think things will go a whole lot easier next installation

[@teabelly1565]

Having watched many tubless topics on GCN and other contributers to this topic I'm very glad I stuck with my old school tried and tested tubed system.

[@slomo3937]

Josh, your achievements of bringing scientific principles to the bicycle world can‘t be praised enough.

[@mechanicaldavid4827]

They _can_ be praised with a high percentage of efficacy and regularity, and that's good enough😁

[@AceMBP]

That's definitely future bicycle industry goal. Single installation tires. $$$$'s. I didn't know that about lubing the valve stem and core. Good tip thanks!!!

[@tommays56]

The BOYD GRV rims with G-One Allround tires and orange sealant has worked perfectly

[@trouthunter4250]

No better videos to geek out with

[@YukiTsunoda7]

*Thanks so much for making what many people take for granted but man the way you explain things!! so easy to understand and very appreciated knowledge is so powerful i bout two sets of tyre jacks because of last video!!! cant wait to change tyres now!!* keep up the great work

[@waldenryd72]

Tried it, newer again on my race bike. Works fine on the mtb on a racer its a pain in the ass

[@johnpritchard1428]

You guys have created some great products at silca and very good advice for tubeless users ... but, honestly your silca sealant is just not viable for my regular riding. Blocking up valves, drying up too quickly, the high cost etc, so I've switched to a product that still plugs punctures satisfactorily but remains viable much longer. I'm using conti str tyres in 25 and 28mm ... keep up the good work, you can't hit the bullseye everytime.

[@BBQSKI]

I’ve been using tubeless tires since they came out and never knew most of this stuff!

[@hoyhoy42]

I got a

[@hamishgrant2563]

I blew one of my Light Bicycle rims. LB suggested it was an inflation issue rather than a rim failure. Josh has now confirmed this. They did offer a good deal on a replacement so big ups to Light Bicycle. They suggested adding the drain hole option as mentioned in an earlier comment.

[@richardneil5202]

Such great practical advice. So pleased that you have taken the time & trouble to share your fantastic wealth of knowledge. For many years I have been using a dab of silicone grease on my valve cores, figuring this prolongs the life of the rubber seals. Is this doing the same job as the lubricant you suggest & helping the sealant not bung up the valve?

[@RandallScheele]

How does the replenisher work? How does it interact with the sealant containing the particles? Typically I find that the original sealant has solidified in the tire forming a solid layer in the tire thus encapsulating the sealing particles. Does it dissolve the solidified sealant to resuspend the particles otherwise you are relying on the latex to seal any hole that might arise.

[@10ktube]

What's the official generic tubeless tape brands/number? Tesa has varying models and I can't get a definite one wrap or two for over x psi type of answer. Great video, always looking for ways to do this cheaper, I have a lot of wheels floating around my garage.....

[@SILCAVelo]

Tesa 4288 works well and 4289 is Stan's yellow tape. I recommend always running 2 wraps, it helps the tires fit more tightly and reduces likelihood of leaking due to wrinkles or damage due to sealant granules/additives, and they weigh just a few grams per wrap.

[@popeyebouldercreek]

I might go back and try tubeless one more time. After plugging my valves several times, I gave up. But perhaps the Synergetic tip might make it worthwhile. But that’s a big “might”…

[@Thehuntress404]

The valve stem and core was information I’ve wanted for a year now, actually had one of my questions about them clogging featured on gcg and they said I was doing something wrong

[@helix7055]

What is your thoughts using Vittoria road air-liners and Silca Fiberfoam sealant?

[@fredboudreaux9663]

Josh is always dropping knowledge bombs.

[@miklm]

I learned a few things here. Thanks for the detailed info!

[@daryloya]

Thanks Josh. Can you comment on what to do on the road when you need to install a tube? What do you need to carry to stay clean?

[@larryt.atcycleitalia5786]

You stop and your follow-car comes up and changes your wheel (or complete bike). Your mechanic deals with all the work, mess, etc. later. The industry's "F1-ization" of cycling just keeps accelerating.

[@alainpfammatter8224]

Excellent video with great tipps. Thank you. I have learned a lot.

[@georgekpalmer9062]

Great info and I buy a lot of Silca stuff, so thanks for your efforts Josh, but this just reinforces my thought that tubeless is not a good match with bicycles. Ever hear of anyone using sealant in automobile tires? I have not, because it is not needed because the tire can be made strong and reliable enough to not need it. But, for now, strong and reliable means too heavy for bicycles. I'm staying with tubes. The time and trouble spent on the occasional flat, seems less than all the fuss spent on tubeless.

[@Fear.of.the.Dark.]

i dont think that kind of strong steel wiring for tubeless bike tires similar to automotive tires will ever come to bikes. You have to use a machine to get those automotive tires off and on in a tire shop. There is no way we will have that kind of tech for a simple bike tire. The only way to solve tubeless on road is to keep developing better sealant over time or we just keep using tubes and clinchers.

[@Viamscience]

Agree with the point on inserts. They do their job…. Keeping the bead in place. But my God…. with a hooked rim they’re a bugger to get off.

[@jestag2]

Wow! With all of that complicated rocket science on using tubeless, I'm glad that I am happy and content with sticking with tubes.

[@lizhengzhang]

great advice, can i use some other alternative oil like other chian lube to try to lubricate the valve? Thanks.

[@user-iz8mu5uj8v]

Josh, Something I've always wondered, I know many other people do too.....once my Silca sealant with fiber dries out, does the replenisher soften it back up again or is it at a point of no return. Thank you!!

[@user-iz8mu5uj8v]

Yes, I've been wondering this as well. Also, the replenisher doesn't have carbon fiber and doesnt appear to seal as well.

[@bruce.KAY-bike-drifter]

Thank you for the excellent advice. Especially the idea of lubing inside the valve stems with a protective oil coating. I don't currently run tyre inserts on either of my mountain bikes, and I contemplated trying one. Your 5th comment has helped me decide NOT to bother with tyre inserts. I have been running with tubeless tyres on one of my bikes since 2017 and my other fat bike since 2021. I have never suffered a flat in all that time, and I have never suffered a dented rim. I guess that is because I pay a lot of attention to my tyre pressures before every ride (or am I being superstitious?) So, yeah, why bother with tyre inserts if they make the tyres so damned hard to remove?

[@danielvanderklok2873]

I love his comment that while there are dangers in cycling the health risk of being seditary are actually higher.

[@alexmurdock9101]

Not that Josh would mention it, but Fillmore valves made by Reserve Wheels do not use valve cores. I've had them for two years with good results.

[@6SpeedsGood]

I have Reserve carbon wheels with Fillmore valves on my gravel and road bikes. They are simply amazing for sealant management and easily worth their cost.

[@keithuram]

Silca doesn't make valves, so no reason for Josh not to mention them.

[@Thomas-fy9yc]

On the tire inserts, I’d like some more info.. Inserts for road tires? Or just gravel and MTB? How about on hooked wheels?

[@tinonga3]

What is the best to clean a used TLR tire to install on a new rim? Thx love this channel.

[@SILCAVelo]

SILCA makes a sealant remover that breaks the latex bond with other materials rather than acts as a solvent to the latex. It is safe for use on tires, but depending on the tire construction, you can sometimes have so much mechanical interlocking of the latex and the casing that it's just nearly impossible to remove. Generally, the less coated the tires was when new, the more impossible it will be to remove old sealant, so just do the best you can with a plastic scraper and peeling by hand.

[@tjb8841]

I just saw a video recommending using a block of natural latex rubber crepe to rub the sealant off. Haven’t tried it yet, but safe, cheap and easy to try.

[@roricam]

Great video. Really helpful information. Confirms again that inner tubes are the only way to go. Thank you.

[@Garrick42]

Congratulations on your decision to continue using inner tubes.

[@JibbaJabber]

@13:00 Pro Tip: DO NOT over tighten that valve nut! If you've done it right, the valve will seal fine with 'gentle' hand tightness. You'll thank me when you need to take the valve out during a miserable winter ride, after a puncture that's too big to seal or plug!

[@tjb8841]

I disagree. With a not so tight valve stem, there might be air leakage. Either right away, or if the valve stem gets bumped. To remove nuts in the field, I carry a Leatherman micro with pliers. Yes, it more annoying, but I’d rather have the wheel not leak in the first place, and make the last ditch repair of tube install a bit harder.

[@Mr_Daso]

Can you use any old lube to prep valves and valve cores? Like a wet lube?

[@larryt.atcycleitalia5786]

Thanks Josh! If I needed any more reasons to avoid tubeless road tire "technology" I have 'em now! JFC, what a bunch of extra work! I'll happily throw away all those watts (and whatever other joys I'm missing) to avoid all this work and spend more time riding and less time wrenching :-)

[@sempi8159]

Agreed

[@DougOx]

My tire resealed after the puncture, because of a little extra work before heading out on a ride. I'll wave as I pass you, trying to replace your tube. I'll be ten miles up the road before you are done. JMO

[@sempi8159]

@@DougOx rather spend 10mins repairing the tube than spend so much more money and time beforehand 🤑

[@larryt.atcycleitalia5786]

"I'll be ten miles up the road before you are done." You must ride fast! No "trying" involved...just pop the wheel off, pull the tire off/tube out, stuff a new one in, pump-up and go, though it's hard to remember the last time I had a flat. I'll be riding while you're still "treating" your valve stems and enjoying a post-ride brew while you're making sure your wheels are in the proper place when you hang up the bike. But it's your time and money, so don't be offended when I declare it's way too much work and expense for me, OK?@@DougOx

[@DougOx]

@@larryt.atcycleitalia5786 Hahahaha, cheers 🍻. Just my opinion. I've had almost no issues with tubeless, and I don't find it much extra work. Some of us enjoy cleaning,tuning, tweeking our bikes.

[@ChrisBennison-bs8pe]

I’m a big fan Silca products and the thought that goes into them. So I was keen to try the tubeless sealant and replenisher. But I found in practice step 1 dried up completely in around 40-50 days, not the 90-120 Silca quote for adding replenisher. That was on two Schwalbe One TLE and a Conti GP5000S TR. It also appeared that most of the CF pieces must have migrated to the tyre bread on seating as there was little evidence of CF in the residue left in the tyre. No punctures when I was riding - great - but longevity if this isn’t ok. Pity - I’ve bought both step 1 & 2. Do I try again, or try another!!?

[@brucepinkerton2716]

If you think about it. Isn’t the !sealant! just making a thin walled self sealing tube inside your tire? That being said, why not just use a tube w sealant in it?

[@SILCAVelo]

If only that worked as well as we want!! The problem with a sealant filled tube is that flats from glass, screws, nails, wire, ets.. will never seal as the tube moves against the tire while riding which continually pulls/stretches/tears the tube with continued riding resulting in both a flat and a gigantic mess inside the tire as all the sealant leaks out from the tube to the gap between tire and tube..

[@brucepinkerton2716]

Oh. Makes sense now

[@jedschleisner8960]

I’ve went through all the fails you mentioned and then some. I had a fat tire wheel set that I could not get the bead to realease. I used gorilla tape and I will never use it again. It prevented the bead from breaking, and I had to cut them off the rim. Then upon putting a new set of tires back on I reused the valve stems and one wouldn’t seal. I tried the get the bead off so I could put a new stem in. Ha! That sucker would not realease. I’m going to have to destroy a brand new tire again. Now that is getting expensive! Argh 😣

[@romankarabutin3781]

This is just next level stuff👍🏼 thanks Josh!

[@liszt1967]

The PolyPro vs. Vinyl tape issue is annoying bc the former is harder to install without wrinkles and easier to nick with a tire lever. The vinyl tape (used by many major brands, BTW, including DT and Zipp) is much easier to install but definitely abraded by your sealant. I’ve switched to Stan’s regular for that reason.

[@SpiritualStuntman]

I’ll pass on tubeless, thanks 🙏🏽

[@rangersmith4652]

All these issues can easily be solved by installing tubes. Do people who ride tubeless carry a tube, or do they not? Why do you suppose they do that?

[@jasongrubb3350]

Because a tube is handy in an emergency… but lacks the performance benefits of tubeless.

[@randallsmith7885]

I just had a Moots road bike built up last summer. I opted for TPU tubes. Light weight, low rolling resistance.

[@rangersmith4652]

@@randallsmith7885 Sounds like a very nice bike, and good choice for tubes.

[@rangersmith4652]

@@jasongrubb3350 That's what people say, but for me, that extra performance increment is not important enough to make me faff about with tubeless.

[@jasongrubb3350]

@@rangersmith4652 Fair enough. To each their own.

[@spdaltid]

Excellent video for tubeless users or those who are feeling tubeless "ready". For me, n+1 problems: Far too many bikes to deal with the whole baggage tubeless demands. Went back to tubes a couple of years ago, a happy man.

[@RandallScheele]

When I am on the road and a leak develops, I remove the core and add fresh sealant such as Stans through the valve to seal the leak. In this video, you say that Synerg treatment of the valve stem prevents your sealant from adhering to the walls. Does this mean that rather than using the replenisher when a leak occurs, one could use the sealant through the valve stem when on the road?

[@northkyt]

I'm wondering why no one has come up with a rubber band style rim sealer strip that works well. It seems like there have been a few attempts (Trek tubeless rim strip, Specialized rim strip), but reviews on those seem to be mixed. Seems like there is a good opportunity for a company (hint: @Silca) to come up with a band style rim strip that seals every time, stays in place, is durable, not too hard to install and can be removed without too much hassle.

[@hinrichaue7199]

Love the video, but this video reminds me why i use inner tubes :D

[@oddknack]

oil on inside of valve, thanks for the tip. Would the valve core then be at risk of coming loose eg when using a hand pump with a screw on adapter?

[@nelsonsilva6842]

You know what's even better it's this new product called a tube! Yes it's way better you put it inside you foi it with air and you are done. I know it's that amazing and even better it does not maintain a ton of new companies that thrive on your ignorance! Oh and another thing, it does not get the myth puncture, and you even get to use higher pressures like the pros! Want it more supple, just go higher on the tip like the pros do and leave this crap. Translating tubeless: More expensive tire. More expensive because of sealant. More expensive because of tape. More expensive because valve. More expensive because you cannot do it and go to bike shop. More expensive, more expensive, more expensive... You get the point!

[@Felix521]

Thanks for the great video. One questions that remains for me (excuse if this was answered) - when using the tire pressure calculator and measuring width - at which psi do I initially measure? 2 or 3 bars make a big difference. Thanks

[@SILCAVelo]

Measure the tire close to what you think the pressure will end up being when riding, some people even measure, calculate, then measure at the calculated number and if it changes, then recalculate again, but that's really probably overkill!

[@Felix521]

Ok cool, that makes most sense I guess. Thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated!

[@chandidas9858]

Thanks Josh; what is the procedure for TLR tyres off season.

[@SILCAVelo]

You can either drain them and wipe them out so you can start fresh next year, or if you're lucky you can let it harden and then peel it out in one go.. depends how porous the tire was when you got it.. some can be peeled out with minimal effort and others require considerable work.

[@DiegoJimenez-zf1rs]

Great advice Josh!

[@PoulHansenDK]

Can that sealant be added through the valve stem, with a medicinal pump?

[@grahamballard7041]

Well worth listening to, I however have one question regarding rim tape. What if it's factory installed, I have DT Swiss wheels that came with the rim tape already in place, do I need now to replace it!? 0:11

[@Fear.of.the.Dark.]

no if it is tubeless tape already (which is most likely)

[@zachs6191]

Thoughts on rims without spoke access holes that do not need rim tape? mechanics hate building them them but I love eliminating one potential point of failure in the tubeless process

[@SILCAVelo]

Those are great to work with but currently limited to just a few brands due to both design and manufacturing patents.. I'd say that in 10 years all high end tubeless wheels will have no outer holes.

[@TnFruit]

Is it recommend to use maybe 3:1 or 5:1 Tubelessmilk and Replenisher on TLR tires for first installation?

[@paulsampson7918]

Top tier advice, thanks!