Silicone Mold Tutorial: 5130 Knife Prop Mold With Vents

In this tutorial we explain the use of vents to facilitate resin casting into a silicone block mold. As mentioned in the video, here are the materials we used:
Mold Release: bjbmaterials.com/zip-me-301s-...
TC5130 silicone: Mold: 5130 Plaitnum Silicone: bjbmaterials.com/tc-5130-a-b
TC808 Jet Black Resin: bjbmaterials.com/tc-808-jet-b...
Here's the video library page: www.brickintheyard.com/pages/...
Here's the block mold page: www.brickintheyard.com/pages/...

[@beezelbuzzel]

I've recently gotten back into sculpting, mold making, and casting after some years. This video series is a life saver. A nice refresher on what I forgot, and I've learned a ton of new stuff. Thanks!

[@ihikefar]

I’ve been following for years. Love the new format. Cheers!

[@AyDeeDurango]

Very clean cuts, appreciate the tip about doing the sharp edge from the inside👍

[@simonrourke9817]

Great video, clear instructions, thank you

[@bitymoldsupply]

Thanks!

[@PsychoAxeMan]

Such a great class

[@bitymoldsupply]

Thanks!

[@StoneE4]

As usual, good information. The volume level on this video is still a little bit quiet, but much better than your last one.... Good job. 👍

[@bitymoldsupply]

Thanks! My hearing is terrible, so I always assume I am making things too loud.

[@ryanavery7980]

nice

[@frenchstyle6854]

Great class ,can I know do u sealing mold from ur shop

[@wesplybon9510]

Thanks for another great video! I have a quick question though, I noticed in this video as well as others dealing with block molds, that you use a straight blade for cutting open the mold, while other makers I see use a blade curved in a U shape, in addition to the zig zag. Do you not find the extra registration provided by a curved blade to be useful or is there something I'm not noticing about the way you make your cuts that make that level of registration unnecessary?

[@bitymoldsupply]

2 points on key knives: 1. they are tricky to make and hard to find so I don't typically feature that. 2. A key knife creates a linear "tongue-in-groove" key. This approach allows for a better registration in my opinion. Next time I do a block mold I'll show that.

[@vfxforge]

show us how to attach the vent tube things to the part and fix it to the base...

[@bitymoldsupply]

Thanks, I'll focus on that in a future video. Ran out of time on this one. For the record, I used hot glue at the base of the vents and superglue at the contact points.

[@vfxforge]

@@bitymoldsupply thanks! what would you recommend for oil based clay masters? hot glue would melt the investment

[@bitymoldsupply]

@@vfxforge A small vent can be glued to the base board and embedded in the clay on the opposite end. Obviously this has to be done with care to not deform the clay. you can also use a straight pin to anchor the vent to the clay if less contact is required.

[@darrelsomoza2927]

A tube would have used less rubber, no? Nice video.

[@bitymoldsupply]

In order to have the appropriate clearance to make a cut seam, a cylinder would have been to large. A rectangular box keeps the tolerances tight. This might be a good subject for a future video.

[@ultramurals]

Mr beast!

[@getdirecti0ns]

The gun show starts at 11:18 you’re welcome! 😂

[@bitymoldsupply]

Whuuuuut???

[@buddyjonjon]

Out of curiosity why didn't you do a 2 part block mould instead of cutting?

[@bitymoldsupply]

This type of approach is faster and, in some cases, results in a cleaner seam.

[@buddyjonjon]

@@bitymoldsupply ok thank you for the answer I appreciate it