💍Silversmithing for Beginners: Filigree technique to make a Ring

[@toastrecon]

Very cool! In case anyone was wondering - any time you bend metal, it gets harder through a process called “cold working”. The metal crystals/grains will get little “dislocations” in the lattice structure. It makes the metal harder and more likely to break if you kept cold working it until it was too hard. Annealing allows the metal lattice to relax and reform so that those dislocations go away as the metal atoms realign themselves. The miracle and trick is to get the metal to the annealing temperature without getting it to its melting temperature, which would mean you get to start over with your project. :-) The flux also protects the solder and the silver from oxygen and other impurities during heating. If you didn’t use it, the silver would react with oxygen in the air and it’d form hard silver oxide.

[@JdmisEduSg]

wow, thank you David for the very informative explanation!

[@ristorinne5817]

As an 59 year old jewelry hobbyist, former truck driver, your video is very, very professional and easy to follow. And the ring is beautiful. If you don´t mind, i would wan´t to try make one to my wife 😀. Thank you for sharing you craftmanship 😍

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hi, thank you for the kind words. Your wife must be really lucky, that is such a sweet gesture :)

[@rampanttricky17]

Very helpful for filling in some gaps in my understanding of filigree technique.

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hi Steve, Thank you for watching our video! Glad it was helpful!

[@dig5166]

Thank you, thank you! I have been wanting to try my hand at a filgree ring for a while, but had no idea how to start. You explained beautifully!

[@JdmisEduSg]

@Di G, you are welcome. Please do subscribe to our channel to get updates on all the latest video tutorials on Silversmithing.

[@maryleemartz3722]

How do I get one of the sheets you used to figure out you lenth to cut your wire?

[@Brishtirraat]

Always exceptional 👏 👌 🙌 ❤️ you are amazing .

[@JdmisEduSg]

Thank you, that's so nice of you :) - Tanja

[@noushinsoltani8550]

Thank you for your complete and perfect explanation 🙏

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hi there Noushin! Thank YOU for the complete and perfect comment! 🙏 We home to continue producing interesting content for our subscribers and really appreciate your time watching and your positive feedback that motivates us to keep this up! Have a great day! 😍 Tanja

[@kurshidbegam9700]

Interesting information

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hi Kurshid! Nice to hear from you!! Thanks for your kind words and hope you are well 😁

[@lalune59]

You are the person I would have loved to apprentice with. You are simple, precise ᵃⁿᵈ disciplined. Thank you for sharing ❤︎

[@JdmisEduSg]

Wow! What an amazing comment Lalune! I wish it were easier to travel these days so that we could invite you to Singapore to see all the fun we have at the school! Stay safe and be creative :) Hope we meet one day...

[@lalune59]

Jewellery Design & Management International School Singapore W´◉ₒ◉ˋW what a small world. My dad was stationed there. We lived in pasa pan yang. I think it was called that. Knick name was pots ᵃⁿᵈ pans. I used to swim against the alligators which was Alexander school. Swam at sandemans swimming club.

[@AlexZupancich]

@@lalune59 Small world indeed! The school is located in 'Queenstown' in Singapore, and Pasir Panjang is the name of the southern part of Queenstown near the coast..... Can't say we have many alligators anymore! You would be surprised at all the changes if you come back to Singapore for a visit!

[@lalune59]

@@AlexZupancich would be nice but now disabled after a RTA but I can wish. Thank you

[@lalune59]

@Kian Colton u̶̲̥̅̊ guessed right

[@kevinsolove458]

wonderful! would like an in depth of how to make filigree wire and if there are any different styles of filigree wire. havent found a video yet with an in depth explanation....

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hi Kevin, There are no "special" styles of filigree wires just many creative possibilities. I have worked with square and flat wires the most which, when twisted, create the beautiful twisted shapes that the round wire is incapable of producing. Flat wires can also be hand wrapped without twisting to produce really nice designs. Usually the outer frame of a piece is thicker, in our classes we use 18ga silver, with the decorative filigree being made with standard 22 and 24ga square wire which we buy from Rio Grande in the US!

[@abedz7438]

Beautiful really

[@JdmisEduSg]

Thank you so much 😊

[@mohammedegyptian2527]

bravo

[@JdmisEduSg]

Thank you for the wonderful comment! I'm so glad you enjoyed the video 🤩

[@janwoutschrotenboer106]

Thank you! Very nice en well explained.

[@JdmisEduSg]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@sathishsathish4691]

Hi mam,,I am from India (Kerala)your work is simply perfect

[@JdmisEduSg]

Thank you so much 🙂 Sathish! Please do subscribe to our channel to get more updates on our latest videos.

[@larryrichards3668]

Awesome.

[@JdmisEduSg]

Glad you think so!

[@alesiarodriguez4962]

I absolutely love this video! Awesome job explaining everything. I am a beginner, so naturally I have a silly question. When you bow the ring shank wires does it change the initial size of the ring you measured for. It seems like it would. Would I need to go up a size when measuring wire for my shank? Thank you so much for this tutorial!

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hello and thank you enjoying the video, I hope you will have a chance to make you very own ring For the ring size the most important thing is to use the chart which has been devised so as to get the size to fit perfectly. You need to know 1. what wire gauge you are using (usually 18g is a very good and sturdy thickness) 2. Your fingersize in USA measurement (there are lots of countries using their own measurements and the chart works really well for USA sizes.) With these two things the ring size will be perfect. How it works is to select the right ring size from the left hand column and match it to the gauge from the top row. This produces a length which works perfectly every time: i.imgur.com/Qet7mTe.png Say my size was size 6 US and I am working with 18 ga so the length of 18ga wire to fit around the finger will be 54.6mm long. Since it is hard to measure to the 10th of a mm we can round to the nearest 1/2 mm. (We can measure 54.5 this would work as 0.1 of a mm will make little difference. So always round up or down to the nearest 1/2mm.) If your finger size is 5 1/2 you need to take the size 5 result and the size 6 result, and average them out. 52.1 + 54.6 = 106.7 / 2 = 53.35 so I would round this to 53.5mm. Hope this helps and would love to see how your ring turns out Best wishes, Tanja

[@tishsmiddy71]

Thank you 😊

[@JdmisEduSg]

You're welcome 😊 Tish! Thank you for taking time to watch and to comment! Stay safe & best regards...

[@Liz-stefany]

At what point would you shape the ring to dome the top if needed to leave space for a faceted stone while still using a low bezel setting?

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hi lizstefany5947, please excuse my late reply as I have been travelling since end September. Due to the delicate nature of the filigree, doming the filigree section could be difficult and dangerous. Any stretching could cause breakage or separation of the fine wires. It would probably be best not to dome but if you wanted to experiment then I would still do so after all the soldering is finished but before the final wrapping of the shank around the mandrel into its correct size. Considering that a faceted gem has only approximately 60% of its width (ie. a 10mm faceted gem will be around 6mm deep) if you use a 5mm or 6mm stone the the depth would only be around 3mm which would mean there would be only a small amount of shaping and doming to do which might work. The biggest challenge is finding the right shape and material on which to place the ring for doming, something like pitch would work: www.riogrande.com/product/medium-red-chasers-pitch/118265GP/?code=118265

[@kathyabraham5664]

Is there a list of tools, etc. provided to make these rings? Just starting in silversmithing and also looking for the best online places to purchase tools and supplies.

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hi Kathy, yes, we have a detailed article on the step-by-step and list of tools/materials: jdmis.edu.sg/tanja-sadow-jewellery-blog/how-to-make-ring-stone-setting.html And regarding where to purchase, you can refer to our comprehensive article too: jdmis.edu.sg/tanja-sadow-jewellery-blog/jewellery-supplies-singapore.html

[@dr.salenapotter1312]

Might you be so kind to share the specific tool you are using to do the metal sanding, polishing, and finishing? I am currently in search of a more precise tool than a Dremel.

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hello Dr Salena, I use a jewellery flex shaft to which can attach all kinds of accessories. Here is an example of the flex shaft with accessories. It is a wonderful tool to assist many jewellers in their pursuit of perfection: www.riogrande.com/product/foredom-tx300-flex-shaft-system/117558 A Dremel is equally good as the highest speed is not really necessary. Sometimes it is having the right attachments that will help the most. If your Dremel can accommodate the different shaft sizes then there is no need for the extra expense of the flex shaft. Here are some good accessories I buy: ​ www.riogrande.com/product/dedeco-sunburst-7-8-polishing-wheel-kit/326163 www.riogrande.com/product/dedeco-sunburst-deluxe-bristle-disc-point-and-pin-polishing-kit/326125 Hope this has been helpful? 😀

[@vasilikiskiada2332]

Thank you for this nice video. What is the diameter size of your filigree wire? Thank you.

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hi Vasiliki, Thanks for stopping by and for your nice comment! The diameter of the outside casing was 18 gauge (See the video at 1:25) and the diameter for the smaller wire used on the inside for the filigree was 22 gauge. We did not include the video of the rolling and drawing of the 22 gauge wire to keep the video down to a reasonable time - but the process was very similar to the 18 gauge wire. :) Stay safe!

[@vasilikiskiada2332]

@@JdmisEduSg thank you!

[@TheSilverSmithsBench1]

Where is that fire brick from? Not finding this on RioGrande

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hi! The fiber brick we use here is made of compressed vermiculite. But you can get the same result from ceramic firing bricks as well. I'm not sure where you're located, but if you're buying from the US you might like to try cool tools. cooltools.us/products/ceramic-fiber-brick-2-1-2-x-4-x-7 Alternatively if you search Amazon you will likely find the compressed vermiculite as well. If you're based in Singapore you can always buy the fiber brick from artclay.asia - Tanja

[@biggertom1234]

Lovely well produced video and easy to follow. Love your filigree but would also like to know what gage wire are you sing for me he actual filligree bits. Many thanks .

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hi tom, thanks for the nice comments. I am glad you enjoyed the video!! I used 18 gauge wire for the frame and between 22 and 24 gauge (after rolling) square wire for the filigree. Have a great week!

[@JayDub_143]

Is there a place where this chart is available?

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hi Janet, I just uploaded it here for you! i.imgur.com/1AnJ1JG.png Good luck with your projects! Tanja

[@Gizmo46953]

@@JdmisEduSg Thanks! Handy to have. I do cabs and facet so I don't have to look far for a stone. :-)

[@DV-dt9sq]

This is beautiful! I adore filigran. 😍 But I wanted to ask is it possible to use some different kind of metal (wire). I mean, I would like to bend wire in shapes and solder it (using a bit thicker wire), but I can't afford silver. And I am not jewller hahaha... just thought if some wire that can be bought in a hardwer store...

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hi DV! Thanks for your great question! You can certainly use scrap or non-jewellery materials to create with. I have some graduates that love the rustic look they get when incorporating 'hardware' into their adornments - there is also a whole genre of 'steampunk' jewellery that lends itself well to combining jewellery elements with more functional parts... This being said, PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL! When we buy jewellery supplies, we are careful to get them from suppliers that know what we will be using the metals for! They know we care about purity and quality. If you go to the hardware store and just buy 'some wires' you could be buying things that are DANGEROUS!! For example, some metals contain cadmium or other heavy metals (especially in solders) that produce carcinogenic fumes - others have base metals in their alloys that are completely unsuitable for you to wear on your skin for an extended period and can cause allergic reactions. If you use electrical wires or even some jewellery wires, you should be careful about coatings - tarnish-resistant or electrically conductive coatings can be toxic when you burn them - so be EXTRA CAREFUL with your ventilation too! Good luck with your projects and thanks for watching :)

[@lalune59]

You can use other metal like copper. Still looks lovely

[@DV-dt9sq]

@@JdmisEduSg : Amazing! I didn't realize that there is so much nformation to be aware of when creating jewellery. Thank you sooo much for your response. 😘😘😘😘🙋

[@Gizmo46953]

@@lalune59 There are also solders for brass and for copper. :-)

[@robertbradford3461]

So, you are using sterling?

[@JdmisEduSg]

Sorry for the slow reply: YES I was using 925 sterling but it can be done with either pure silver or argentium neither of which would need pickle! - Tanja

[@candyflair7946]

This is a good video. I would love to make filigree. How much does it cost to get started? Can filigree be made with copper? I did not understand what pickling meant. Can you explain what that is?

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hi Candy, Thanks for your time and for your comments! Glad you enjoyed the video. How much does it cost? Well, it can cost quite a bit! You saw me in my workshop - and we have tonnes of equipment like rolling mills, wire draws and other cool tools. But if, say, you were to buy your wire ready-made (eg: buy square wire from your jewellery supplier in the size you want - then you would have much less work and could still be really creative without the need for bigger more expensive tools. At the very least you will need some basics like a torch, tweezers, files, cutters and a comfortable place to work! You can see the types of things we include in our beginner course here: jdmis.edu.sg/precious-metal-arts-certificate-courses/foundation-metalwork-skills-and-experience.html (look at tools and materials.) Can it be made with copper? YES...... but.... Be careful.... copper solder (especially if you buy it from a hardware store) often contains cadmium and can be dangerous. You should check your materials before you buy and work in a well-ventilated space! Silver is nice to work with because it is soft, melts at a lower temperature and is very safe! Also, don't try to use silver solder on copper because it will definitely hold - but it will be super visible! What is Pickling? Pkcling is the use of an acid to remove the surface oxidation off a metal when you have heated it. You can do this without pickle (ie: just manually polish until the surface is clean) but this will take waaay more time! So normally we use the pickle to speed the process up because when you bend/manipulate your metals they get work-hardened and you need to anneal them. Each time you anneal you would then have to polish away the oxidization. Hope this helps! Have a great day, Tanja

[@Gizmo46953]

Pickling removes the oxidation. Some form of mild acid. I use vinegar followed by bath in baking soda water. finiish with plain water. Copper tongs may be required.

[@candyflair7946]

@@JdmisEduSg it does help. It looks doable! Thank you very much. Looks like I need to subscribe to you channel. You have been very helpful.

[@Gizmo46953]

Subscribed to find there are a total of 2 videos. Nice ones , but still, only 2. Maybe you could point out that 2 grades of solder are used. Likely easy and extra easy. Medium may be a bit too hot for the finer parts of the piece. Note: full range lapidary and machinist besides silversmith.

[@JdmisEduSg]

Good morning Gary and thank you both for your support of the channel and your feedback. We are a small team and produce lots of content for our students and for jewellery aficionados that are exploring the world of jewellery - indeed we don't have many videos covering all topics but I am surprised to see you found only two - because we have produced videos on metalsmithing, design, gemstones, gem testing, and a variety of other useful things we share with the community. If you like to share more about how you reached a page that only showed two videos I could perhaps direct you to find our many others. In the meantime - great comment on solder. In this project, I did actually use medium and easy - but you are right that with medium solder and fine parts, you need to be careful not to melt your filigree pieces.. a really good tip for anyone reading the comments! We don't have much demand for lapidary work in Singapore - being so close to worldwide lapidary hubs like Thailand and Sri Lanka - but we are exploring this as a new avenue of training as we grow and will surely share more information on this with the community in the future. Have a great week, Tanja.

[@Gizmo46953]

@@JdmisEduSg I clicked on Subscribe on KZbin. I would be very interested in seeing more videos. I'm a machinist, lapidary, silversmith, photographer, and a few others. :-) I get bored easily. It keeps me off the streets. Lately I built my own faceting machine and learn from Justin K Prim's videos. I'm sure others would love to see more of your videos as well. Take care. Gary

[@Gizmo46953]

Another thing about solder. The easy and extra easy in particular. They have a small amount of zinc. When you melt them the zinc will evaporate and once cooled, it will take a bit higher heat to melt next time. So, "effectively", you have 2 different grades in one. It's tricky, but I have used it in that manner.

[@sathishsathish4691]

I am also gold Smith(Vishwakarma)

[@JdmisEduSg]

Glad to hear from you Sathish! Thanks for your comment. Please do subscribe to our channel to get more updates on our latest videos.

[@biplabpaul9861]

Hello ma'am

[@JdmisEduSg]

Hello 😊

[@biplabpaul9861]

I am Dimond sater jewellery

[@JdmisEduSg]

Yes Biplap, how can I help?:)

[@Secondcominginaskimask]

Um yea soder dosnt flow upward tho? Tht should have been placed on the top not bottom idek wtf tht was

[@JdmisEduSg]

Yup it's surprising but solder follows the heat, this is one way we can control where it will flow! It is also capillary action that draws the molten solder into the tight spaces in between the metal parts. If you just place the pallion on the top and hope the gravity will do the work, you may end up an incomplete solder joint. Have a great day!

[@nowirehangers2815]

It does flow up